Sizing advice/fit check. Versatile or not

[CosmoSix5]

I love this jacket but I'm wondering.. Here I'm wearing my jacket over a thick 21ish oz hoodie. Looks pretty awesome IMHO . I was thinking about asking my next jacket to be slightly more trim. This jacket looks good worn with a less substantial layer but it could be better?
Would a .5" reduction in bust and naval make the difference or more? Thanks for your help. I've attached a pic of the lesser fabric for reference.

 

[CosmoSix5]

For a little more reference I wore the hoodie combo for about an hour in and out of the car. I'd say comfort was about 6-7 out of 10.

 

[Bennarion]

I love this jacket but I'm wondering.. Here I'm wearing my jacket over a thick 21ish oz hoodie. Looks pretty awesome IMHO . I was thinking about asking my next jacket to be slightly more trim. This jacket looks good worn with a less substantial layer but it could be better?
Would a .5" reduction in bust and naval make the difference or more? Thanks for your help. I've attached a pic of the lesser fabric for reference. View attachment 691992 View attachment 691991

It all depends on how you will wear the jacket. If only on a T-shirt, then you can reduce it for a slim fit. The jacket looks great on you right now. My advice to you is not to jump to conclusions. Wear a jacket for at least half a year and then you will be able to make the right decision.

 

[Bennarion]

For a little more reference I wore the hoodie combo for about an hour in and out of the car. I'd say comfort was about 6-7 out of 10.

Soon you will have an SB jacket and you will have something to compare it with

 

[CosmoSix5]

Soon you will have an SB jacket and you will have something to compare it with View attachment 691993

I actually had to pass on this due to measurements. I've placed the order directly with SB.

 

[Bennarion]

I actually had to pass on this due to measurements. I've placed the order directly with SB.

This jacket has a different cut, so it can fit you a little differently

 

[El Marro]

What a nice jacket! My advice would be to put your order with SB on hold and wear the hell out of the one you’ve got. This is advice that I of course, did not follow myself, and I now have too many leather jackets to count, and only a few that I wear with any regularity.
On a sidenote, I am totally intrigued with the open ceiling framing in the first photo. I love the juxtaposition between finished walls and floor with those exposed joists and surface mount electrical. Very cool!

 

[CosmoSix5]

What a nice jacket! My advice would be to put your order with SB on hold and wear the hell out of the one you’ve got. This is advice that I of course, did not follow myself, and I now have too many leather jackets to count, and only a few that I wear with any regularity.
On a sidenote, I am totally intrigued with the open ceiling framing in the first photo. I love the juxtaposition between finished walls and floor with those exposed joists and surface mount electrical. Very cool!

Local coffee shop and my "office" on Tuesdays . Restored old building. I wish I could say I purposely framed the photo... Lol

 

[MrProper]

For a t-shirt fit, I would actually reduce the measurements slightly.
But the question is, how often do you wear just a t-shirt? The wearing options are already limited and the comfort a little too. If you have enough jackets, then you can have a few special ones. But if you have one or two jackets, I would go for more versatility.
I like tight jackets, but actually the best ones are the ones that work both with just a t-shirt and with something underneath (even if it might be a bit tight then lol).
I'm not sure if that will really be an improvement for you. Looks cool the way it is now anyway.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Unfortunately I don't think tinkering the numbers will work as they are two very different patterns, the Hooch Hauler and the Tailgunner. I've had both, in tag size 42, both 23" P2P, but fit totally different.

Given the same P2P measurements, the Tailgunner is actually the bigger jacket than the Hooch Hauler due to the difference in pattern grading between the two.
My best advise is always find an used jacket first of the same pattern to see you like the pattern before throwing money at the maker for a brand new one. This process takes longer time but usually gives more satisfaction for me. If you just go for a brand new custom build, then it's up to the maker to figure things out for you. The odds is always 50/50.

 

[Fredoka]

Fit looks good in my opinion.
A leather jacket that is too tight will be uncomfortable when wearing a sweater underneath, and possibly look worse...
It's nice having options for different weather, you'll wear it more often and it'll break in faster

 

[Bennarion]

I love this jacket but I'm wondering.. Here I'm wearing my jacket over a thick 21ish oz hoodie. Looks pretty awesome IMHO . I was thinking about asking my next jacket to be slightly more trim. This jacket looks good worn with a less substantial layer but it could be better?
Would a .5" reduction in bust and naval make the difference or more? Thanks for your help. I've attached a pic of the lesser fabric for reference. View attachment 691992 View attachment 691991

I wanted to see how the sleeves fit you in length.

 

[bn1966]

In my experience the T shirt fit looks great and is fine undone but instantly turns you into a sausage if you have to zip it up.

 

[TartuWolf]

I actually had to pass on this due to measurements. I've placed the order directly with SB.

My advice is to be very careful and demanding in terms of pre-shipping QC (especially in terms of sizing / measurements) with SB. I've had great experience with them in terms of communication, but awful in terms of delivery. A lot of headache would have been avoided if I had been more demanding with pre-shipping QC.

 

[CosmoSix5]

My advice is to be very careful and demanding in terms of pre-shipping QC (especially in terms of sizing / measurements) with SB. I've had great experience with them in terms of communication, but awful in terms of delivery. A lot of headache would have been avoided if I had been more demanding with pre-shipping QC.

The service I've received so far has been good and very detailed. Sporadic though. I feel she's got a lot going on. Thanks for the advice.

 

[navetsea]

I personally think the front panel of a jacket must be snug, any extra room to accomodate layering must come from the back panel , so from the front view the fit won't change much whether you wear it with a t-shirt or with a mid layer, but the back of the jacket will make room for it, and a jacket doesn't have to be snug everywhere to give a trim look, it just need to have a waist, the curved in waist or taper toward the waist will make the slimming look even when the jacket still has some gap to your waist. it still looks better than a tighter jacket on its measurement but has a straight boxy line from underarm to the hemline.

 

[TartuWolf]

I personally think the front panel of a jacket must be snug, any extra room to accommodate layering must come from the back panel

I disagree with this. Especially if we talk about the top block. Room in the back provides freedom of movement reaching forward. Room in the front is responsible for movement in terms of pulling your shoulders or arms backward. That's why I'm such a fervent advocate for measuring chest width apart from pit-to-pit. For example I had two Vanson B jackets with the same pit-to-pit. One had a smaller chest width, one had a larger chest width. The first one was unwearable for me and I had to sell it, even though the back volume (including gussets) gave full freedom of movement reaching forward.

 

[navetsea]

I disagree with this. Especially if we talk about the top block. Room in the back provides freedom of movement reaching forward. Room in the front is responsible for movement in terms of pulling your shoulders or arms backward. That's why I'm such a fervent advocate for measuring chest width apart from pit-to-pit. For example I had two Vanson B jackets with the same pit-to-pit. One had a smaller chest width, one had a larger chest width. The first one was unwearable for me and I had to sell it, even though the back volume (including gussets) gave full freedom of movement reaching forward.

but are you going to wear your jacket fully zipped, while reaching backward? I think what makes jackets looks cool worn open or worn half zipped is when the front is pulling apart a little, for racer type jacket I mostly wear half zipped they look best that way, and for cross zip I wear them open 95% of the time they look best that way too.

 

[Bennarion]

Do not forget that the height of the armhole in the jacket has a bearing on the size in the chest

 

[TartuWolf]

but are you going to wear your jacket fully zipped, while reaching backward? I think what makes jackets looks cool worn open or worn half zipped is when the front is pulling apart a little, for racer type jacket I mostly wear half zipped they look best that way, and for cross zip I wear them open 95% of the time they look best that way too.

If you're not planning to wear your jacket more than 1/2 zipped up then sure - ignore the chest measurements. Cross-zips are more forgiving in terms of 2/3, but for a straight zip even 2/3 starts to become really problematic if chest space is lacking. Personally I think that if you're jacket does not comfortably fit you when fully zipped up - you have the wrong sized jacket. Personally I wear my jackets ~20 uzipped, ~60 2/3 zipped and ~20 fully zipped. And I'm definitely not of the opinion that jackets worn open look best, but that's subjective.