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Size differences with cloth- or leather sweatband?

Kreissaege

One of the Regulars
When first browsing this forum, I read about it making a difference of half a size when using a cloth sweatband instead of the standard leather one. Someone had specially ordered a hat with the former to gain half a size.
At least, thats what I remember.
Is this correct?
If yes, it could mean, that one of these crushable Akubras could be in reach for my 61.5 LO noggin!
 

duggap

Banned
Messages
938
Location
Chattanooga, TN
I really don't know the answer but from experience I bought two new Boralinos and one was a foldable with a cloth sweat in it. I had to put spacer under the sweat to make it small enough to fit. I also found out that spacers don't work the best behind a cloth sweat.[huh]
 

HATCO

Vendor
Messages
191
Location
TEXAS
In my experience cloth sweatbands are much more flexible than leather sweatbands. This allows them to fit a variety of head shapes and sizes that a leather sweatband might not as easily... Hence round oval, long oval, wide oval when using leather sweats....

Kreissaege said:
When first browsing this forum, I read about it making a difference of half a size when using a cloth sweatband instead of the standard leather one. Someone had specially ordered a hat with the former to gain half a size.
At least, thats what I remember.
Is this correct?
If yes, it could mean, that one of these crushable Akubras could be in reach for my 61.5 LO noggin!
 

feltfan

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,190
Location
Oakland, CA, USA
HATCO said:
In my experience cloth sweatbands are much more flexible than leather sweatbands. This allows them to fit a variety of head shapes and sizes that a leather sweatband might not as easily... Hence round oval, long oval, wide oval when using leather sweats....
I have some vintage Borsalinos with soft roan, reedless sweats
you need to see...

To answer the original question, the hat should be the
circumference indicated by the size. HATCO is suggesting
that they offer additional flexibility, but not additional capacity.

I think some of us here might have given the impression that a
hat with a fabric sweatband is larger when discussing the replacement
of a leather sweatband with fabric. Since the fabric is most likely
thinner than the leather, the hat may end up fitting a larger size.
But a hat designed to fit size X should fit size X regardless of the
materials used.
 

J.T.Marcus

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,354
Location
Mineola, Texas
feltfan said:
...I think some of us here might have given the impression that a
hat with a fabric sweatband is larger when discussing the replacement
of a leather sweatband with fabric. Since the fabric is most likely
thinner than the leather, the hat may end up fitting a larger size.
But a hat designed to fit size X should fit size X regardless of the
materials used.

I have found that to be the case. If I remove a leather sweatband, and replace it with a fabric band (I only do that when the leather is shot.), the result is a looser fitting hat. But, a factory job should be the size stated. :)
 

Kreissaege

One of the Regulars
Thank you for the input.
Incidentally, yesterday I received my Akubra "Balmoral" straw hat from Hatsdirect and had the chance to learn the differences in fit between leather and cloth sweatbands.
The ordered size 62 has a cloth sweatband (shoddily) sewn in, as opposed to the product description.
2162009013.jpg

According to Hatsdirect this has always been the case. The smaller sizes come with a leather sweatband.
Maybe to gain a size? I cant think of any other reason.
Unfortunately, I am right between two sizes:
61 with leather is too small
61 with cloth is a tight fit front and back with room at the sides
62 with a leather sweatband is roomy and requires a bit of foam
62 with a cloth one needs lots of foam on the sides and additional cloth at the forehead
:(
 

J.T.Marcus

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,354
Location
Mineola, Texas
Kreissaege said:
...Akubra "Balmoral" straw hat from Hatsdirect...

2162009013.jpg

According to Hatsdirect this has always been the case... :(

It's wierd that Akubra is using a plain grosgrain ribbon for a sweatband. It will work, of course, and has been widely used for sweatbands in women's hats. But, for a man's hat, even cheaper brands (for instance, TONAK) tend to use something a bit more substantial, comfortable, and durable. [huh]
 

Kreissaege

One of the Regulars
Most important of all, I wouldnt have ordered it, had I known that it comes with a cloth sweatband. Straws with this I can buy locally.
I wont return it, because that would be simply too expensive, something I can easily live with if I made a mistake when ordering from abroad. But they should have added this info about size-specific sweatband-type in the product description.
I got a very fast reaction of hatsdirect to my letter after receiving the hat, lets see what will follow.
What is a "milliner", btw?
The explanation for the use of cloth is quite interesting, so here it is. Maybe it is a good economical way for Akubra to reduce the cost of production for a size less often asked for.

"Thanks for the letting us know that your hat has arrived safely but sorry to hear that it is too big.

The size 62 Balmoral has always been made with a cloth band instead of the leather to make sure they can get the full correct size.
The foam provided will help to make the hat smaller. The other option would be to stitch a few tucks/darts into the cloth band. This will reduce the size of the hat.

Please let me know how this goes. I will talk to our milliner tomorrow and see if she can offer any additional options for you".
 

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