Show us your 'vintage inspired' suits ....

[Two Types]

There seem to be threads for so many things, but i couldn't find one specifically for new suits with stylings inspired by the vintage look (If there is one and I have missed it, please move this post).

I chose the words 'vintage inspired' because I know some people don't like the use of the word 'reproduction' since that would imply complete vintage construction methods etc. Rather than get into discussions about such matters, I thought another - much wider - phrase would do the job. So this can be somewhere to post pictures of suits etc that you have made in an effort to get that 'vintage' look.

Here is my latest suit. It is by Bookster, a UK internet tailors. They happily add all manner of features to a standard pattern. I have opted for wide trousers (copied from a pair made to a vintage pattern many years ago) with a high waist. I also opted for the short five button waistcoat, rather than the longer six buttoned one. I have often heard people argue 'but it was always six button back in the 1920/30/40s etc'. I dispute that, but more to the point i wanted a shorter waistcoat to cover attempt to shorten my torso since i have relatively short legs (I know that wide trousers are always supposed to make the legs look shorter - and that might counteract my efforts - but i like wide trousers).

I decided on a wide, peaked lapel, which is absolutely my favourite style.

I would like feedback on the suit. If you don't like it, let me know (as long as you have something constructive to say).

Here goes:

and the cloth label:

detail of the cloth:

P.S. you may have noticed the lack of a buttonhole. It was an error, the jacket is now on its way back for the buttonhole to be added.

 

[Two Types]

This is another one of mine, that was made for me back in about 1995. It was styled after a 1930s suit:

These days it fits rather oddly on the back, due to some problems I've had with my shoulders over the last 15 years.

This is my wedding suit, back in 1992. it was copied from a photo of my uncle's wedding suit circa 1950:

It stills fits (just about):

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, "those people" are most assuredly wrong.

Nice suit. Don't know about the shoes though, mate.

I also opted for the short five button waistcoat, rather than the longer six buttoned one. I have often heard people argue 'but it was always six button back in the 1920/30/40s etc'. I dispute that,

 

[Two Types]

I rather like the white shoes with three piece suit look. I have photos of my grandfather and all his mates dressed like that on a beach in the 1920s.

 

[Dinerman]

Simbols. Italian, from the past ten or fifteen years.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Yes post a way. I am looking for a new jacket any
Ideas are welcome.

 

[herringbonekid]

TT, the suit looks very good. i kind of wish the fabric had a subtle stripe on it as well, as pinstripe on herringbone looks even more 30s-40s, but that's not really a complaint.

there are a few 'look at my vintage inspired suit' threads around, but usually started one thread per person (per suit), so they've never been grouped together.

 

[Two Types]

I did think about something with a stripe (i saw a lovely mid-grey herringbone with a red stripe), I also thought about a bolder herringbone, but decided to keep things simple. I find that sometimes, when people want a vintage looking suit, they go a bit over the top and throw in too many features and go for really bold cloth. That's fine, but it depends on what you want the suit to be used for. For me, I wanted something to wear when going out somewhere nice of an evening, thus wanted something to sit between the casual look (or my usual jacket and grey flannels combination) and the formality of a dinner suit. Dark blue is just the job.I like the combination of the blue and the black in the weave.
I didn't want this suit to be too flash ... just flash enough.

 

[Benny Holiday]

I think it looks great TT, especially the fabric - is it 14oz? The wide trouser legs and button stance, lapels etc all look great.

 

[Two Types]

Thanks. The blue suit is a 17oz cloth (as is the grey double breasted suit).

 

[herringbonekid]

There seem to be threads for so many things, but i couldn't find one specifically for new suits with stylings inspired by the vintage look (If there is one and I have missed it, please move this post).

there is a separate thread devoted to Matt Deckard suits and many threads about Indy Magnoli suits (and other products), so that's probably why none of their suits have been posted in this thread.
i'm not sure if a Rocacha suit has been posted on here yet.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

This is my first "vintage inspired" suit. Some of the details such as the wider lapels, the peaked jacket with shawl waistcoat and the surgeon's cuffs are all vintage style elements that I wanted to incorporate into this one. Overall I'm quite happy with it for a first made-to-measure suit.

If I may be forgiven for posting what is technically a sport jacket as opposed to a suit, I wanted to include this jacket because I immediately noticed the strong Victorian influence in its design. The high button stance, wide lapels, ticket pocket, roped shoulders and very traditional grey herringbone harris tweed are all very Victorian in flavour, I thought. What really shocked me was when I looked at the label inside; can you believe this fine jacket was made by none other than Abercrombie and Fitch?!

I'm always repelled from even setting foot in their stores due to the horrid stench of cheap cologne they must apparently hose down the interior with, but my goodness if they have more jackets styled like this one, I might have to borrow a gas mask from my old regiment and plunge into the maelstrom as it were to see what other gems might be lurking there!

 

[filfoster]

Re the OP: the current Paul Stewart catalog.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Here are some "vintage inspired" suits I've had made, which reside in my work wardrobe. "Inspired" is exactly the right term for these because I made zero effort to have them with period correct details, but rather I cherry picked elements I like from various eras/styles/cuts. The are also by design rather understated and some of the details I purposefully had the tailor under emphasize because the last thing I wanted to look like at work is as if I'm wearing a costume.

The first two are my nod to the late 50s/very early 60s, but the cut is really a mutt of influences. The lapels are the so-called "clover-leaf" lapel, was a fixture of the Ivy League look; this lapel shape is featured prominently on the suits' of several Mad Men characters. The shoulders are moderately built up and the waist is darted to give that subtle "hour-glass" silhouette in the style of the continental look. Finally, the hacking pockets, double vents, "DAKS" waistband, and forward facing double pleats are really more English in inspiration.

This third suit was inspired by a early-50s "full back" bold look suit I own, although since it's for work, I definitely had the tailor scale back on the shoulders to avoid any Miami Vice associations from co-workers or bosses. Again I opted for features which are not period correct (e.g., hacking pockets, which I like and double vents, because they are more practical). The elements of the bold look silhouette I opted for were built up square shoulders and narrowed jacket hips. I also asked for a lower button stance. Note the one-button closure, like the original.

The inspiration for #3:

 

[Two Types]

Guttersnipe: I admire the way you have created the suits as you want them (putting together your favourite features) rather than feeling you have to have a perfect recration of a period suit. It means you have distinctive suits that are ideal for your needs. Out of interest (i.e. for other loungers in your area) who is your tailor and what does he charge?

 

[Guttersnipe]

Thanks. I go to two tailors actually.

The first two suits were made-to-measure by the Hemrajani Bros. Ltd (aka, Mytailor.com). Their price are easily accessible on their site.

The third suit is bespoke by an SF brick and mortar called Spoon Tailor who are essentially a Hong Kong operation transplanted to San Franciaco. Last time I checked, their suits started at $650 for a two-piece with a full canvas jacket. I belive the offer a slight discount if you provide your own fabric.

 

[Two Types]

This thread has been rather quiet for a while. Anyway, here's my next suit.

It was made for me last year by Norwegian 'lounger' Quirel. Unfortunately, I ordered it just after losing some weight and starting lots of swimming. I continued the swimming, my shoulders seemed to get bigger but I stopped losing the weight. Everything is back on track now, I've lost quite a bit of weight and my shoulders are back to normal - so it fits!

It's a heavy vintage wool (that HBK found for me). It was originally going to be a standard 1940s style suit, but Quirel knew my interest in eastern European tailoring and suggested something more fun. It is cut to have a distinctive European look, with a bit of 'belly' on the lapels. I think 'Romania 1930s' when I look at it (if you don't know what I mean, look at the Romanian suits thread).

Here goes:

Well done, Q!

(rather typically, I forgot to put my braces on when photographing the suit so the trousers don't hang quite right. Also, I didn't really chose the right shirt, it's a bit too casual for the suit)

 

[Fastuni]

Qirrel has done a very good job! Congratulations!
Yes, you look like you stepped out one of those Romanian photos.

The bunny ear suspender straps add to the Central European flavor.

(For good measure stop shining your shoes.)

 

[Rudie]

Nice. Did you go to Norway for fitting or did you just send in your measurements?

 

[Two Types]

Cheers gents. I sent him a pair of trousers to copy (his copy was better than the original!!!). And he worked from an old, knackered double breasted jacket. It was all done by email and post! He really has to take the credit for making it look so central European.

Considering that Quirel is a self-taught, home tailor, the result is very good.

I'm always happy to encourage small scale producers!