Show Us Your OVERCOATS

[Mathematicus]

I've always had a soft spot for this overcoat which Slick Willie wore while in the WH. I like the high button stance and proportions and length but it could only look okay on a tall man.

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I agree with you that this kind of overcoat works well only on certain body types - to me you have to be wide framed and tall to pull of the very low button stance.

I had feelings for double breasted overcoats in the past but now I'm more inclined to single breasted as they often prove more useful protecting against cold. In particular these 80s/90s styled coats with low button stances will basically offer no protection of the chest and throat area and you would have to stuff a thick uncomfortable scarf to cover that big place.

In contrast, the earlier cuts had a much higher button stance and consequently covered very well the area below the neck, providing a lot of warmth.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I agree with you that this kind of overcoat works well only on certain body types - to me you have to be wide framed and tall to pull of the very low button stance.

I had feelings for double breasted overcoats in the past but now I'm more inclined to single breasted as they often prove more useful protecting against cold. In particular these 80s/90s styled coats with low button stances will basically offer no protection of the chest and throat area and you would have to stuff a thick uncomfortable scarf to cover that big place.

In contrast, the earlier cuts had a much higher button stance and consequently covered very well the area below the neck, providing a lot of warmth.

All of these observations are quite right, in my mind. My favourite coat is a late 1990s Hugo Boss overcoat which has the low button stance, etc, it's hopeless in serious cold but is very luxurious.

Here's a photo that epitomizes the early 1990s. Crazy by today's tastes, but not so crazy by 1930s tastes.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's Kevin Spacey today in a chesterfield (of sorts).

 

[Mathematicus]

All of these observations are quite right, in my mind. My favourite coat is a late 1990s Hugo Boss overcoat which has the low button stance, etc, it's hopeless in serious cold but is very luxurious.

Here's a photo that epitomizes the early 1990s. Crazy by today's tastes, but not so crazy by 1930s tastes.

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Yes, typical low gorges and button stances. Usually the single breasted ones didn't get crazy low (apart from some laughable 2 button overcoats) and I still have one of these in my regular outerwear closet.

Anyway, all of those coats are much better than the average skimpy modern equivalent. The days when overcoats were designed to be pleasant to wear and good looking are long gone. Nowadays the average overcoat is sized like a tight sportscoat and offers little protection against the cold: thin fabric, short length and narrow overlap are the norm.

I also don't know why but skinny lapels don't really look good on coats (to me), neither do the absurdly high gorges on fashion today.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Yes, typical low gorges and button stances. Usually the single breasted ones didn't get crazy low (apart from some laughable 2 button overcoats) and I still have one of these in my regular outerwear closet.

Steve Martin's coat in Planes Trains & Automobiles is a good example of a super-low 2-button overcoat that you're talking about.

Anyway, all of those coats are much better than the average skimpy modern equivalent. The days when overcoats were designed to be pleasant to wear and good looking are long gone. Nowadays the average overcoat is sized like a tight sportscoat and offers little protection against the cold: thin fabric, short length and narrow overlap are the norm.

I also don't know why but skinny lapels don't really look good on coats (to me), neither do the absurdly high gorges on fashion today.

I simply don't see how modern overcoats are warm at all, even the multi-thousand dollar ones. They all seem to be made of thin, hard fabrics. And of course, as you say, the fit is absurd.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a pet peeve of mine: please button the bottom button, Jude.

 

[Tommy-VF51]

Picked up this rare 1930s wrap around overcoat a few days ago, i have't seen many examples of this type before.
Unfortunately there are no labels to identify brand what so ever, which is very frustrating. I do believe it is British, the fabric feels a bit ruff like worsted wool, and superbly tailored.

Cheers
Mike

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This is incredible!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Oversized overcoats are apparently surfacing again...

 

[Doctor Damage]

classic proportioned overcoat on this older gentleman:

 

[Doctor Damage]

to the 1980s...

back

 

[Doctor Damage]

Nice coat, Matthew... but button it up!

 

[Doctor Damage]

This is an incredible coat...

 

[fulcanelli]

This is an incredible coat...

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Nice is it vintage or ‘new’ Grenfell. I’ve been lucky this winter and got two bargain balmacan style coats from eBay. One Crombie tweed number (probably early 80s) and an amazing belted pure alpaca fur long overcoat. Only problem is it’s too cold to wear them where I live! I am looking out for men’s fur coats but never see them.

 

[Doctor Damage]

interesting shawl-collared overcoat on one of my fav actors:

 

[Michael A]

Fairly plain jane, but a nice heavy 100% Cashmere that I picked up yesterday.
DSCN7797 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
DSCN7796 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Made by Cardinal Clothes of Canada in Montreal. Basted canvas chest.
3-3-2019 Today's Clothes by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Couldn't pass it by for $12.50.
Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

^
superb coat Michael, this is I guess your 'best' overcoat (the rest of the outfit works well with it)

and $12.50??? (sigh)

 

[Dlaniger]

Fairly plain jane, but a nice heavy 100% Cashmere that I picked up yesterday.
DSCN7797 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
DSCN7796 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Made by Cardinal Clothes of Canada in Montreal. Basted canvas chest.
3-3-2019 Today's Clothes by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Couldn't pass it by for $12.50.
Michael

12 Bucks!?! Great find and quite elegant maybe plain jane, but can't go wrong with below the knee black cashmere. It is an invaluable staple of any wardrobe. Great suit too. Looking sharp today.

 

[Dlaniger]

interesting shawl-collared overcoat on one of my fav actors:

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Double Breasted no less! Only Odin could pull that off.

 

[Michael A]

^
superb coat Michael, this is I guess your 'best' overcoat (the rest of the outfit works well with it)

and $12.50??? (sigh)

Thanks Doctor D. I'm guessing it was certainly somebodies "best".

12 Bucks!?! Great find and quite elegant maybe plain jane, but can't go wrong with below the knee black cashmere. It is an invaluable staple of any wardrobe. Great suit too. Looking sharp today.

Thanks D. I'm a great fan of really long coats. Great movement in them. I had passed over this one without seeing it all winter at my favorite vintage store. And then on my second go through of the racks yesterday I saw it. And as luck would have it their annual half price clear out for spring season had started on Friday. Ha ha.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[Doctor Damage]

Alec Guinness in Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy in a heavy overcoat he wears through most of the series. It's got a very wide double-breasted overlap and those lapels are crazy. It must have been custom made. I've seen him wearing the same coat in a civilian context, i.e. not during filming, so perhaps it was his personal coat.