Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

[Two Types]

Fastuni. That suit is amazing. The fabric is perfect. I hope it finds a good home.

 

[Fastuni]

German 40's Peak-Lapel Black Pinstripe in size 38/40.

Jacket used to be once a DB - but was very well altered to SB. Cuffless, pleatless pants. Either altered that way or might indicate war-related material saving (but wide legs).

 

[herringbonekid]

Fastuni, that's interesting; i've heard alteration tailors say that a DB can't be altered to a SB (usually because of the roll line), but what they really mean is 'i can't be bothered to do it'.
what evidence of the original DB is left ?

 

[Fastuni]

On the "outside" there are no "traces" - it's very well done - but at the backside of the left lapel one can still find traces of the original second decorative buttonhole. The entire left lapel facing was "pulled up" and on both lower inside facings (where the buttonholes and buttons are) pieces of fabric (identical suit fabric and solid black) where inserted (I'll make a photograph later). The buttonholes are also handstitched from a different thread than the decorative lapel buttonhole.

but what they really mean is 'i can't be bothered to do it'.

Yes. It certainly was quite an effort, but the lapel rolls quite nice on this. Probably the DB was damaged or the suit was fitted for a thinner person or handed down to a younger wearer.

 

[herringbonekid]

i think i get it; the left facing was moved up to get rid of the old buttonhole, then extra fabric added down at the bottom of the facing ?

 

[Fastuni]

Exactly - but the extra fabric was inserted in the middle, where the buttons are, not at the bottom.

 

[Two Types]

Fastuni: Do you have old German tailoring instructions for altering DB to SB? I'm sure I remember someone mentioning instructions on how to do this (dating from the war years or just post-war).

HBK: I have a German example of DB to SB. It isn't as expertly done as this one. I'll be posting photos soon (it came from Bavaria, via Fastuni). Next time I see you I'll try to remember to wear it so you can see how they did it.

 

[Two Types]

This is a 1930s German jacket that Fastuni found for me:

It's rather rare to find early stuff in my size, so I was rather pleased to get this. I'm not usually a fan of two button jackets but when they have a high button stance I like them. I know it is relatively short (and lots of people might argue it is too short for me) period photographs show that jackets were often worn short. And I think it helps to make my legs look longer.

Thanks Fastuni - keep looking for more clothes for me.

 

[Fastuni]

Looking great! As you said - early 30's (German) jackets tended to be very short... just looking at the sleeve length (which was not let out) it is apparent that it was intended for someone your size. I personally like the short fit on SB jackets (not so much on DB)... for exactly the "long legs" effect you mentioned.

As to the DB to SB... alas I have no instructions on this. I figure though that it was frequently done in the war and post-war years.

Thanks Fastuni - keep looking for more clothes for me.

My pleasure, next weekend I'm again out on the hunt.
BTW your charcoal jacket that is being fitted is still not finished... but we are getting there!

 

[Fastuni]

German Peak Lapel three-piece with double breasted waistcoat.

Some serious padding and drape...

guess the date of the suit, guys.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

2013

 

[Fastuni]

Neither can I afford a tailor to do this, nor do I have the time to try something of that scale myself.
I'll add that it is vintage and was tailored in Nuremberg.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ah, I thought you were trying to catch us out!

I'll plump for late 40s.

 

[Two Types]

I'm not very good at dating suits, but I'm sure I've seen catalogue scans showing German suits with that style of waistcoat in the thirties.

 

[herringbonekid]

1952.

 

[Fastuni]

Ta dah...

There are some feautures (not all visible on the photo) that are rather indicative of late-1940's to 50's:
Very broad and elongated chest (with padding also in the upper waistcoat) and the bottom buttonhole is set slightly below the pockets.
Also a very long jacket.

 

[herringbonekid]

it was the low top button that suggested the late 40s to early 50s to me.

p.s. Fatsuni, you have a tendency to photograph your jackets at quite a steep angle.
may i suggest stepping back slightly and lowering your eye level so the jacket is seen as straight on as possible ?
it helps to see the true cut of the jacket, not distorted by foreshortening / perspective.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It was the low slung fastening button that did it for me, and the little waistband pocket that I always feel is indicative of those suits from the late 40s onwards. Also, for those with more experience of German gear, the lack of suspender buttons on long rear straps would be indicative of a later suit?

Nice one!

 

[Fastuni]

@BK

Nice one!

Thanks!

Also, for those with more experience of German gear, the lack of suspender buttons on long rear straps would be indicative of a later suit?

Not necessarily... "bunny ear" suspender straps can be found until the 60's. However it is true that trousers without these tabs (even without any buttons for suspenders) become more frequent with the late 1940's. Various elastic "devices" inside the waist became more frequent by that time, too.
This one has only loops for a belt, BTW.


@HBK

Thanks for the suggestion... I will heed this advice. I think this is because of me focusing unwittingly on the lapel/chest area when peeking on the camera...


Cheers,

Fastuni

 

[Fastuni]

Early 1930's German "Sunday's best" or afternoon/evening suit. Fantastic condition and size 40 R.

My most recent local find... some interesting things to tell about the origin. It is from Holzkirchen, a small town between Munich and Bad Tölz.

Holzkirchen may be known because of the "Holzkirchner Oberbräu" brewery (it's beer was supposedly rather well liked by a German dictator of the 1930's and 40's who otherwise abstained from alcoholic beverages.).
In any case Holzkirchen was of some importance during the Cold War, because one of the largest transmitters of "Radio Free Europe" was located there. So much for Holzkirchen.

The tailor (I suppose... at least his name and place are on the trouser buttons) of this exquisitely made suit, was Hans Schwim(m)beck of Holzkirchen. I don't know which spelling is correct.
The buttons write him with one m, but the Holzkirchen websites write him with double m. In any case he was the president of the local sports club 1921-1924 and again 1930-1931. The local singing club also has a 1929 photo, with Hans Schwim(m)beck in the front row, second from right.

The pockets on the trousers are quite extraordinary!
Lightly padded shoulders.

Cheers