Shirt materials.

[Daniel Riser]

DanielJones and I had a conversation developing in the "show us your suits" thread that was tempting the ever so popular and unforgivable sin: G-O-I-N-G--O-F-F--T-O-P-I-C

So I decided to answer Dan's question (where can I find modern materials with 30's patterns?) in an appropriate thread.

Dan,

I own a couple period patterns. My favorite, a 1927 butterick, features a long pointed collar (almost approaching on a 1970's flair) with french cuffs and closed body (the shirt only buttons half-way)

Lauren made me a shirt from this pattern that was so beautiful it forced me to begin a collection of different fabrics for future "vintage" shirts and you'll never guess where my favorites have come from...

WAL-MART

That's right ole' Sam Walton may not know the difference between partical board and fine oak but he sure has some cool patterns floating around the bargain racks. Folks that buy fabric from Wal Mart generally aren't interested in french cuffs*, what little shirt weights are available usually end up on the top of the $1 per yard bin and that is where your pearl will be found.

The last one I picked up was a light blue with thin burgundy pinstripe. It is an exact match for a shirt I have seen in a 1932 catalogue.

I found, in a bargain bin at yardage town, a fantastic evenly spaced burgundy and tan stripe, very bold but very thirties!

I have a few original thirties shirts with patterns that are dizzier than "free love era" furniture.

I even have a shirt that's medium green base with dark green, orange, yellow, red, amber and black stripes! So ask Root, Deckard and Marc to send you pics of actual shirts from catalogues, find the patterns that are asthetically pleasing to you and make sure to judge a pattern with an entire shirt in mind.

And last but not least...

Check those bargain bins, for some reason a lot of terrific patterns (with usually just enough yardage to make a shirt) end up there.

*The author recognizes that this is not politically correct :beer:

 

[Lauren]

A general tip- the less you pay for fabric, generally the worst quality it is. This involves how big the weave is- which can effect wearablity and hand (that is the texture of the fabric). Also, in some of the less expensive fabrics the dye will not hold as well as in more expensive ones. Less expensive = less expensive dye = not as many treatments to protect against sun, washing, etc.

But with that said, I usually buy less expensive fabrics that look more expensive, or ones that are on clearance. Oftentimes this is simply because they can't sell it because it wasn't popular. They can be pretty decent quality for a decent price.

If you have money to burn and you're in the LA area, go check out "International Silks and Woolens" because they have a wall of very good quality shirtweight materials.

If you don't, check out the clearance racks

Make sure your fabrics don't have a large percentage of synthetics like polyester, spandex, etc. Not only is it a bear to sew with, it will turn into an oven when you are wearing it- from activity and body heat. You may find you're sweating more than usual (ick!). Rayon is breathable but can make fabric slippier to sew with. It and Acrylic are both synthetics made from natural fibers. But Acrylic has a tendancy to turn colors pretty quickly when you iron it.

The best bet, stick with cotton. Not only does it breathe, but it's period.

The bolt of fabric when you go to buy it should have a sticker of the fabric content next to the price, and it can also say care instructions. The bolt is the cardboard piece the fabric is wrapped around. If you pull back the fabric on the top, it should be right there. Some fabric stores don't do it the old fashioned way of draping fabric over the price, so it's just right there staring at you

The next thing I have to say is to make sure you wash the fabric before you want it to be made up! If it says "dry clean only" go get it dry cleaned. If it says "wash warm water" wash it. And seperately from the other fabrics. Not only will it make it so your new shirt won't shrink (though with some cottons it's best to wash them twice to be double sure), it will get rid of some of the excess dye that could have come out on your other clothes!

Ok, that's the instant how to for fabric

 

[Daniel Riser]

Just came back from Wal Mart. Found, in the bargain bin, a medium blue withsmall navy blue dots! Just like a catalogue pic I have from 1937!!!

 

[Lauren]

You're getting as bad as me...

Isn't it fun

 

[DanielJones]

Thank you both for your input. I'll have to go over to Wal-Mart at lunch and see what I can find. My late mother had bought a lot of material over the years. She had good intentions of making all sorts of things. So this Saturday we go rummaging through the bulk of what she collected (but never made). We found some great wools for skirts for my girlfriend. Found her sone great black pinstripe slacks material. She's lovin' this. I found a few good silk pieces for the backing of a couple of herringbone tweed vest I'm having made. A lot of the best materials she had are from the 50's judging by the tags still pinned to them. This lats weekend I found a great white cotton for a dress shirt, and the pattern I have has an option for double cuffs. Can't wait to make these and show them off.

I would love to see some of those examples of the material. I think I may have to copy my pattern to keep it in good shape and to be able to make a few shirts from it.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[Lauren]

Dan, that's a great idea! If you get manila paper or butcher paper you can iron out the pieces on a low setting, then lay them out and trace them onto the paper. I started doing that with some of my patterns, but most of them I only use once anyways. Us girls have lots of options

It's a good thing you live in central California! The further away I am from that vintage stash you mother collected the better! My favorite thing to dig through after the clothes is the fabrics at estate sales and flea markets (and the vintage expo and...)

 

[DanielJones]

Well Lauren, if I find some stuff in the stash that Chris or her sister-in-law doesn't want I'll take some photos and post you a PM to see if you or anyone else you know may want, or have a use for.
Most of it has been sitting in storage for at least 40 to 45 years, and will more than likely go to Goodwill if we don't find a use for it. There is some great stuff too that we're going to give to Chris' mom to make us a huge quilt or two.
Basically, my mom having grown up durring the Depression was a pack rat. Nothing got thrown away, God love her. But on the same side of the coin, a lot of it never got used either, and there is a bunch of great stuff that still has a life to fufill. So, I will see what I can find, and if it's anything that you or Daniel can use I can send it down to you. Free to you from me. I just ask that something snazzy can be made from it.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[DanielJones]

Daniel: Could you please post some of the catalogue pics and shirt images that you have so I can get a good idea of what to be looking for? Thanks a bunch.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[Daniel Riser]

Yes... I've been saying way too many times now "Will post pics soon." but I'll actually try to do it this time. Just keep on nagging me about it... seriously.

I've got ties, suits, shirts, hats, pipes, shoes, jackets, fabrics even hankies!?! to post. One of these day I know Marc is going to put a gun to my head and make me actually post some of these pics.

I'll get right on it and again just keep on nagging me about it... in the meantime watch Seabiscuit and the Aviator. I think some of the shirts Dicaprio wears are so cool!

 

[Lauren]

Wow, I just realized that I can't address either of you by first name, because you wouldn't know who I was talking to!

Mr. Jones: I am jumping up and down with excitement!! What a lovely offer!! Please, don't throw it out! I'll pay shipping!!!

Mr. Riser: I have the camera. One of these days we'll have a photo shoot, I'll burn you a disk and help you upload them.

 

[DanielJones]

Thank you both...

Daniel: Will do. I'm always researching info whereever I can. I try to learn as much about a subject as possible to be able to pass on any knowledge I gain. Again, thank you for passing along your knowledge and images, it is most appreciated. You had mentioned that you bought your suit at the Vintage Expo. Where is it usually held, and do they have a schedule or a web site?

Lauren: Any time. You happened to have found a great pattern for me, so I am returning the good deed. I'm quite sure I'll find a few pieces that you will like. Like I said, there is so much there, that most of it I hadn't seen before, and 36 years is a long time not to be privvy to such things. This weekend will be a fun little treasure hunt.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[Lauren]

Thanks again!

The vintage expo rotates between San Fransisco and Santa Monica. The next show will be in Santa Monica again, Feb 4, 5 , 2006. We're crossing our fingers that we can get in to sell again, but we'll see! No matter what, we have a blast looking around (and usually spending too much money). And there's lots on vintage fabrics to dig through. I usually make a trip or two You can visit their site on the web for a coupon and more info

 

[DanielJones]

Thanks for the info. Maybe we'll see you & Daniel there.

Cheers!

Dan