RRL Calfskin Moto Jacket

[singer]

A few quick snaps of the RRL Calfskin Moto jacket. I went to my local RRL to try it on during the sale, but they didn’t have it in stock. It seemed like a long shot for me style-wise, but the recent cafecto thread really got me curious. So I bought it to try on.

Overall, awesome jacket but 1) sleeves are tragically too short and 2) not quite sure I can pull off this style.

I would have the jacket unzipped most of the time, and the flaps just seem unwieldy to me. And they don’t always layer correctly—sometimes they both push forward, neither flap lying flat. Looks great to me zipped, sort of like I’m ready to do some stunts or test piloting. Bordering on costume-y.

I don’t understand why the sleeves are so short. I’m the same size in all RRL tops—blazers, shirts, etc. I’m wearing an RRL shirt underneath and the arms on that shirt are much longer. Clearly the leather jacket is following a different arm length sizing than the rest of their tops. It makes no sense!

My observations and opinions:

• Love the veg tan calf, the color, the grain & the brass hardware. I think the painted snaps work well. There’s a lot going on already, and matching brass would be a bit much brass, while chrome snaps would too busy.
• It’s very light weight for a leather jacket. I will definitely be open to veg tanned calf in the future. This is from “an Italian tannery”
• The giant D pocket is awesome and quite functional. For treasure maps.
• I don’t like zippers on the hand warmer pockets generally because the teeth scrape your hand. But this one works pretty well because they have a lip of fabric behind the teeth that is just a bit longer than the teeth, like a wind flap. So it’s quite comfortable to use the pockets.
• All zippers are Talon zippers. A bit tough to seat the main zip properly to zip & unzip, so you know it’s authentic
• The seams are interesting. Several of the main seams, along the side back, side front, outside arm sleeve, etc use the “busted seam” construction. This is where a seam along a single stitch line is opened on the inside, so that the leather flaps lay flat to each side (like the selvedge seams used on some jeans). There are 2 lines of stitching on each side of the seam. This only serves to hold the flaps down. It adds no strength to the seam, which is only held by a single line of stitching. But the pro is that the seam has less bulk. I think it works well for this weight of leather, and the seam should be plenty strong. I’ve noticed that some designers prefer these flatter seams (Freewheelers, for example), vs the more common seam that has a line of stitching, both inside flaps stay closed and folded to one side, then another line of stitching is top stitched over the flaps—giving the final seam 2 lines of stitching that would have to fail to pull open. This should be a stronger seam, but it has 3 (skived) layers of leather vs 2 (skived) layers for the busted/butterfly seam. See how flat the outer arm seam is--there is no raised bump from one panel to the next.
• I don't like that visible seam on that "wind flap"/double breasted panel under the zip (visible when unzipped). It would be a lot cleaner looking if they just used a single piece of leather. This does allow them to get more yield from their hides, but it bugs me (I'm less picky about the inside facings but it's nice when they're 1 piece as well.)

 

[navetsea]

looks very unique.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I like the back and the leather but that front is unattractive to my eye. What does it weigh? 3.5 pounds, thereabouts?

 

[singer]

What does it weigh? 3.5 pounds, thereabouts?

3.7 pounds for size small

 

[khaki8]

Jacket is very nice but it just doesn't have the character of an Aero or the weight either.

 

[navetsea]

by looking at the sleeve, the leather has no problem developing character.

 

[Seb Lucas]

3.7 pounds for size small

That's a good lighter hide. I like that too.

 

[Benproof]

looks very unique.

Errr..that's one way to describe a design disaster.

Surprise to hear RL shops are going to be cut back. Hope the RRL line continues but not this frankenjacket morphed into a bizarre mix of lottery pockets all over; one sewn too close to the arm pit; a fake half belt for show purposes and no structural purpose; bi swing rear shoulder designs for such short arms.....take it back for a refund asap.

 

[Monitor]

Sleeves are way too short, obviously, but I like this jacket. Losing the chest pocket would do this jacket a favor but overall, it's not bad at all. And I love busted seam stitching.

That said, most of these lancer front, D-pocket jackets are costume-y and over the top. The Buco J-20whatever is just a clowny as any of these jacket and if it wasn't for Rin Tanaka telling people it's the best jacket in the world, I'm doubt this many people would be paying thousands for it. Mostly people who would never have even considered a classic Perfecto in itself before vintage became a fad.

I mean, for that reason alone people consider having a single hand-warmer acceptable, which in my opinion is hardly one of those brilliant design choices Buco has been known for - especially since other manufacturers proved that you can actually have both hand-warmers and a D-pocket without compromising the design and functionality of the jacket.

But yeah... Sleeves are too short. Which is a shame 'cause this jackets fits you insanely well.

 

[nick123]

It's a cool jacket. I think I'd wear it with the lapel folded over but that's just me.

 

[ProteinNerd]

It's a cool jacket. I think I'd wear it with the lapel folded over but that's just me.

Yes, surely its meant to be worn with them folded over like a vanson chopper or the awesome thedi style jacket that i love.

 

[ButteMT61]

I think that if the wearer were in possession of a very buff but slim physique, the jacket would look OK flat, but otherwise I agree with @ProteinNerd on the folds...

 

[singer]

Yes, surely its meant to be worn with them folded over like a vanson chopper or the awesome thedi style jacket that i love.

Ah, yes this would have looked MUCH better with the lapel folded down. There's nothing to hold it down, but I would have probably been able to fold it that way had I thought about it. I wish I would have tried it!

I would have kept the jacket (assuming the arms were long enough) if:

- At least a couple pockets deleted. Perhaps the top angled chest pocket and little snap pocket near the hand warmer, leaving just hand warmers and the D pocket. That might have worked.
- Would have definitely kept if it where a plain cafe style front--a horizontal chest pocket, 2 handwarmers, single breasted. Maybe some matching brass buckle sinces on the 1/2 belt. Done. There are a million options but this would have still had some unique elements.

There were so many good parts--the veg tanned calf, weight, hardware, fit (other than arms), low profile seams, etc. Simpler would have been better (for me).

Now that I have a Shinki jacket, I also noticed that this is pretty loud leather for such a light jacket (which is kind of awesome). The shinki leather is pretty quiet (which I like as well).

This RRL went back today.

 

[handymike]

Good call
Now, let's see the Forbisher!

 

[ton312]

The design houses seem to be obsessed with mixing. Buco, Trojan etc pocket details and the result is:

A good call to return for sure. Even with lengthened sleeves it's still a mash up of classic configurations that just hurts the eye. I'd give them a nod for good intentions but not for execution.

 

[handymike]

Unfortunately, the Hulk franchise has yet to produce a good movie. Too bad. I like the Big Green Guy.

 

[Peacoat]

My query would be, is calfskin an appropriate hide for a MC jacket, which this one obviously is.

 

[Monitor]

Didn't Ang Lee make a good one? I mean, Ang Lee makes good movies. Hulk isn't much of a movie making material, understandably, but neither are gay cowboys and that movie certainly rocked the house!

 

[navetsea]

crouching cowboy hidden hulk

 

[ton312]

I liked the Ed Norton hulk. The first one was too long and not enough smashing. Except the gamma dogs scene. That was brilliant.