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Roll of the lapel?

Chad Sanborn

A-List Customer
Messages
428
Location
Atlanta, Ga
Is there a way to get the roll back into a lapel that has become flattened?
Ironing is a no/no from what I understand. So whats a chap to do?
 

Macheath

One of the Regulars
Messages
254
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
I'm just pulling this out of my hat...

How about steaming the lapels with a dowel in place?

I don't know exactly what tailors do to acheive a proper lapel roll, but this just came to mind.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Ironing is fine, just don't go too hot for too long in the same spot. If you want a good roll, iron the lapel flat from the back (don't fold at the crease, just lay all the fabric flat) and just button the jacket.

There is material in the chest which will cause the lapel to roll right if you just keep from creating a crease.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
lproll1688xwq4.jpg
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Chad, I'm very happy that you want to roll your lapels. This 'small' detail makes an enormous difference! It is, in my opinion, the height of elegance.


(In the 1930s, 'evil rich capitalists' were lampooned in print for their top hats, derbies and rolled lapels.)

.
 

Macheath

One of the Regulars
Messages
254
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Matt Deckard said:
If you want a good roll, iron the lapel flat from the back (don't fold at the crease, just lay all the fabric flat) and just button the jacket.

There is material in the chest which will cause the lapel to roll right if you just keep from creating a crease.

Will all jackets roll properly if you just iron them, or is the lapel's roll a function of the garment's construction somehow, meaning some will roll better than others?
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Macheath said:
is the lapel's roll a function of the garment's construction somehow, meaning some will roll better than others?
Yep, a lapel which has a pad stitched interlining will have a memory, whereas a lapel with a fused interlining will not.
 

tjoek

New in Town
Messages
28
Location
Sydney
I thought from my understanding if a coat has already been cut, it could not be changed anymore.
For example if it is already cut to a three button as the finished product, it cannot change into three rolls two. I might be wrong thought.
 

manton

A-List Customer
Messages
360
Location
New York
There should be a press line that extends from collar down through about the top quarter of the lapel. Below that is the roll. Basically, you want to sharpen that press line, but not continue it. Unfurl the lapel below that line and lay if flat and press the UNDERSIDE (using a press cloth, as noted, otherwise you will "cook" the natural oils in the cloth and make it shiny).

You need to do both to recreate the roll.
 

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