RMC Mobster vs FW Mulholland. Who wins in a bare knuckle brawl?

[Rgcards]

Brian@ brandrea. Get off the merry go round!! Your never going to find a jacket that will match up to your good wear!! Trust me it's the best!!

 

[sweetfights]

Ok. Embarrassingly, I own the fh, the Mulholland, the mobster and the heron, as well as a Hercules from gw. Brandrea sold me two. The Mulholland fits strangely in my opinion, it's not tapered much, it either fits well around the chest or the abdomen. The rmc is a better fit, but in the same size it's a little bigger on me. The flathead is very nice, but it's really a different style altogether, it doesn't have the pocket stitching. There is also a list worlds chp which is nicer than all of the above, but too short for me and has the dreaded side laces; I sold mine to Carlos. I guess I gould take some pictures later so you can see for your self. I would go vintage myself, but vintage has the same issues as lost worlds, short with side lacess. I'm also not crazy about badge holders. You could talk to stu about custom, but that gets expensive fast

Nothing embarrassing about owning leather.........a lot of leather.

 

[Jasonissm]

Another thing to keep in mind is that Mulholland is only available on the reseller market now. There will be NOS ones coming out but they're gonna ask for at least ¥300,000 for them like the current brown La Brea NOS jacket that's on sale. At this price level many things opens up.

Now that others have mentioned I am surprised Himel never made a Mulholland. His zipped Heron is the buidling block of the Mulholland, just add the bottom band stitchings and underarm footballs. It would actually have an edge over the Mulholland because it has those small side triangles. Mulholland is really a fantasy jacket that was a later CHP jacket made to fit into the 30's leathertog family FW has so everything looks cohesive. They did a wonderful job but the side triangles on the Heron block is quite useful, its a proven CHP design. Himel is overpriced too but he has the mid brown Shinki. Other can only get this if they custom order from Shinki like he did. Although I am assuming he shares some of the leather with GoodWear but it would come down to what's the waiting time. At 6' size 38 suits it's gonna be hard to find OTR to fit from Japan or most brands really, the sleeves will always be too short. I think the stock spec for size 38 nape sleeve is gonna be in the 34" to 34.5" range, and at 6' tall you need at least 35".

A word of caution though, starting at the top doesn't guarantee no running down this leather rabbit hole. Especially you've found this place. Even if the first top jacket is perfect, it might not be your last one...

If you do plan to visit Japan in the next few months maybe hold out to check out the stores near the Ueno zoo. Americaya has all three colors of the Rainbow Country Highwayman, from black to seal brown to their new tobacco brown. That jacket is like a smash up of the two you were looking for, Mulholland and Mobster. Rainbow Country feels a little bigger, so maybe the 40 will work out just perfect. Their current Tobacco brown horsehide is really hard to beat.

Not sure if it's a fantasy jacket, that's what I thought at first, looks like a CHP mimicking a Trojan, but I think it was @jeo who said they saw a photo of the original Trojan jacket and was looking to see if he could resurface that image. I'd be really keen to see it as I've never been able to find it and it's one of the most iconic of the Japanese leather jacket models.

I wish they made a 46

They do, you can even order at size 46 from Barnstormer Gotemba right now, they just started accepting order a month or two ago.

Here's the link:
Tobacco Brown: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010263?category_page_id=ct40
Black: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010261?category_page_id=ct40

 

[111Joel111]

Another thing to keep in mind is that Mulholland is only available on the reseller market now. There will be NOS ones coming out but they're gonna ask for at least ¥300,000 for them like the current brown La Brea NOS jacket that's on sale. At this price level many things opens up.

Now that others have mentioned I am surprised Himel never made a Mulholland. His zipped Heron is the buidling block of the Mulholland, just add the bottom band stitchings and underarm footballs. It would actually have an edge over the Mulholland because it has those small side triangles. Mulholland is really a fantasy jacket that was a later CHP jacket made to fit into the 30's leathertog family FW has so everything looks cohesive. They did a wonderful job but the side triangles on the Heron block is quite useful, its a proven CHP design. Himel is overpriced too but he has the mid brown Shinki. Other can only get this if they custom order from Shinki like he did. Although I am assuming he shares some of the leather with GoodWear but it would come down to what's the waiting time. At 6' size 38 suits it's gonna be hard to find OTR to fit from Japan or most brands really, the sleeves will always be too short. I think the stock spec for size 38 nape sleeve is gonna be in the 34" to 34.5" range, and at 6' tall you need at least 35".

A word of caution though, starting at the top doesn't guarantee no running down this leather rabbit hole. Especially you've found this place. Even if the first top jacket is perfect, it might not be your last one...

If you do plan to visit Japan in the next few months maybe hold out to check out the stores near the Ueno zoo. Americaya has all three colors of the Rainbow Country Highwayman, from black to seal brown to their new tobacco brown. That jacket is like a smash up of the two you were looking for, Mulholland and Mobster. Rainbow Country feels a little bigger, so maybe the 40 will work out just perfect. Their current Tobacco brown horsehide is really hard to beat.

Amazing! Thanks for all that. I really hope I don't go down the leather rabbit hole. I seem to do it with my hobbies... it's getting expensive! Great tips on jacket choices and sizes, that really helps. I will be going to Tokyo in the 6 months... I'll pop up to Ueno and check those stores out. Thanks for all the adice!!!

 

[111Joel111]

Not sure if it's a fantasy jacket, that's what I thought at first, looks like a CHP mimicking a Trojan, but I think it was @jeo who said they saw a photo of the original Trojan jacket and was looking to see if he could resurface that image. I'd be really keen to see it as I've never been able to find it and it's one of the most iconic of the Japanese leather jacket models.


They do, you can even order at size 46 from Barnstormer Gotemba right now, they just started accepting order a month or two ago.

Here's the link:
Tobacco Brown: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010263?category_page_id=ct40
Black: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010261?category_page_id=ct40

wow beautiful leather!!!

 

[Brandrea33]

Brian@ brandrea. Get off the merry go round!! Your never going to find a jacket that will match up to your good wear!! Trust me it's the best!!

Thanks brother … I agree, he does his patterns so well! I hope you’re enjoying it!

 

[111Joel111]

Agree. Look into RC Hercules or single rider.

Cheers!!! I'm looking!

 

[Brandrea33]

Not sure if it's a fantasy jacket, that's what I thought at first, looks like a CHP mimicking a Trojan, but I think it was @jeo who said they saw a photo of the original Trojan jacket and was looking to see if he could resurface that image. I'd be really keen to see it as I've never been able to find it and it's one of the most iconic of the Japanese leather jacket models.


They do, you can even order at size 46 from Barnstormer Gotemba right now, they just started accepting order a month or two ago.

Here's the link:
Tobacco Brown: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010263?category_page_id=ct40
Black: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010261?category_page_id=ct40

Damn you … looking now

 

[111Joel111]

Great info here. I wondered as well about being 6’ tall but wearing a 38 … that’s gonna be a tough off the rack to find.

OP, out of curiosity, what are your measurement’s?

My average jacket measurements are Chest 21.5, shoulders 17.5, arms 25.5. 6', 178lbs

 

[111Joel111]

Only if my 3D printer can also print jackets...

View attachment 533854

that's badass!!!

 

[111Joel111]

Ok. Embarrassingly, I own the fh, the Mulholland, the mobster and the heron, as well as a Hercules from gw. Brandrea sold me two. The Mulholland fits strangely in my opinion, it's not tapered much, it either fits well around the chest or the abdomen. The rmc is a better fit, but in the same size it's a little bigger on me. The flathead is very nice, but it's really a different style altogether, it doesn't have the pocket stitching. There is also a list worlds chp which is nicer than all of the above, but too short for me and has the dreaded side laces; I sold mine to Carlos. I guess I gould take some pictures later so you can see for your self. I would go vintage myself, but vintage has the same issues as lost worlds, short with side lacess. I'm also not crazy about badge holders. You could talk to stu about custom, but that gets expensive fast

Yeah pics would be great! Side laces are straight fail for me. Shorter is better. I kinda see what you mean in photos about the strange fit of the Mulholland, it has an odd silhouette. The Mobster looks more boxy but I feel it works better strangely. Yes I also feel the flathead is a different style from the two initially mentioned, it's beautiful but different.

 

[jeo]

Mulholland is really a fantasy jacket that was a later CHP jacket made to fit into the 30's leathertog family FW has so everything looks cohesive.

Not sure if it's a fantasy jacket, that's what I thought at first, looks like a CHP mimicking a Trojan, but I think it was @jeo who said they saw a photo of the original Trojan jacket and was looking to see if he could resurface that image. I'd be really keen to see it as I've never been able to find it and it's one of the most iconic of the Japanese leather jacket models.

Yes, the Mulholland is a fantasy jacket. It was based on a Trojan but not a copy. The original Trojan didn't have a chest pocket. I wish I had the photo of the original to share. I definitely don't have it on my desktop or phone. It might be somewhere on one of my old hard drives.

 

[Marc mndt]

I think it's a mashup of these three jackets, a Californian, a Cal and a Trojan.

Californian

Cal

 

[Marc mndt]

Trojan

 

[Jasonissm]

Trojan

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WOAH! That Trojan is nice, grail right there, the quilted liner is sweet!

Also that Californian is the best I've seen, lovely collar shape! To me, these type of collars look nicer in a medium weight leather since the thickness detracts from the overall shape and how it drapes.

 

[Tom71]

Trojan

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Not sure if it´s obvious to everybody, so at the risk of some redundancy:

The Mullholland actually replicates the "Trojan Leather Sportswear" logo (helmet and all). So if you pick up the jcket with an untrained eye, you won´t find a reference to "Freewheelers" but only to Trojan Sportswear.

 

[Marc mndt]

Not sure if it´s obvious to everybody, so at the risk of some redundancy:

The Mullholland actually replicates the "Trojan Leather Sportswear" logo (helmet and all). So if you pick up the jcket with an untrained eye, you won´t find a reference to "Freewheelers" but only to Trojan Sportswear.

FW gave it a twist, calling it 'Spartan leather sportswear'

 

[Brandrea33]

Not sure if it's a fantasy jacket, that's what I thought at first, looks like a CHP mimicking a Trojan, but I think it was @jeo who said they saw a photo of the original Trojan jacket and was looking to see if he could resurface that image. I'd be really keen to see it as I've never been able to find it and it's one of the most iconic of the Japanese leather jacket models.


They do, you can even order at size 46 from Barnstormer Gotemba right now, they just started accepting order a month or two ago.

Here's the link:
Tobacco Brown: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010263?category_page_id=ct40
Black: https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000010261?category_page_id=ct40

Thank you for this information, honestly it’s appreciated.

If you had posted this a couple of months ago, I’d probably have hit the buy button.

After looking at sizes the RC Hercules won’t work for me. Either too large in the shoulders 46) or not wide enough in the chest (44). I’d also be worried about the sleeve length (depending how they measure).

The really tough part in finding a jacket that fits (for me) is that published dimensions don’t always tell the story of how it’ll actually fit. Sure they’re a good guide, but till you actually slip into a jacket, you’ll never really know for sure … and at the moment I’m tired of experimenting with expensive jackets.

As @Rgcards says above … I’m getting off this “merry-go-round” lol.

 

[Tom71]

FW gave it a twist, calling it 'Spartan leather sportswear'

View attachment 533995

Upps, you are absolutely right! Thanks for clarifying!

 

[handymike]

Thank you for this information, honestly it’s appreciated.

If you had posted this a couple of months ago, I’d probably have hit the buy button.

After looking at sizes the RC Hercules won’t work for me. Either too large in the shoulders 46) or not wide enough in the chest (44). I’d also be worried about the sleeve length (depending how they measure).

The really tough part in finding a jacket that fits (for me) is that published dimensions don’t always tell the story of how it’ll actually fit. Sure they’re a good guide, but till you actually slip into a jacket, you’ll never really know for sure … and at the moment I’m tired of experimenting with expensive jackets.

As @Rgcards says above … I’m getting off this “merry-go-round” lol.

I think you've reached the top of the mountain with your GW.