RMC Mobster vs FW Mulholland. Who wins in a bare knuckle brawl?

[111Joel111]

You know, I had the same dilemma: I really like both jackets, but feel they are too similar to justify buying both.

Ultimately, the “Mulholland“ was the itch I just HAD TO scratch, so I got it. Call it a victim of the at times almost mythical admiration it received a couple of years back.
If you are free from such shortfallings and get a chance to try both, just get the one that fits/feels better. If not, here’s what I can contribute:

The “Mulholland“ is a nice jacket, and I do wear it regularly. Good enough fit for me, nice leather with a reassuring heft. All good…
I still feel I don’t give it the attention such an expensive jacket deserves. Especially at the beginning, I couldn’t really see what all the fuss was about. Despite the qualities, I never saw it as “the best jacket” some portrayed it to be.Thanks
I’ve since overcome my doubts, but I will say that - horror of horrors - at this price point, Himel is able to make the better jacket with the more impressive leather (not that he always does, but that‘s a different story).

I haven’t seen or handled the “Mobster” in the flesh, so I can only make a more general comment on RMC. I have one leather jacket from them (A2) and two cloth jackets. I do feel they are absolutely worth the money, and both the leather and the craftsmanship on the A2 have really won me over.
So, while my initial reaction to the FW was a feeling of being slightly underwhelmed, with the RMC it was exactly the other way round. I am sure, this was mostly due to my expectations at the respective time, and thus is far from an objective analysis.

Do keep us posted. Both great choices for sure!

Thanks for the reply! Yeah that really helps. RMC is getting a bit of a rough treatment. I have no prejudices yet, I like all the suggestions. So you think I should add Himel to my list as well? I did check them out but the cut didn't grab me... but then again, I'm just looking at photos.

 

[111Joel111]

Here’s the FW.

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Cheers! Looks great on you! Thanks for the pics, great to see how it fits.

 

[Brandrea33]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah that really helps. RMC is getting a bit of a rough treatment. I have no prejudices yet, I like all the suggestions. So you think I should add Himel to my list as well? I did check them out but the cut didn't grab me... but then again, I'm just looking at photos.

I see you’re from Canada … if you happen to live it the GTA give David a ring and check out some of his jackets!

 

[111Joel111]

Thank you @Will Zach and @Brandrea33 sorry for late response as I’m on vacation…

I second @Canuck Panda on everything he said about mulholland. And, agree with @dudewuttheheck on going with jacket that fits well. having said that, for me, both leather and fit are critical. I would not buy or wear a jacket with leather that is not special to my eyes. This is what I thought of RMC leathers in general except their kakishibu, nothing special (I know I may get a lot of push back on this). It’s just my experience with RMC leathers. Rainbow country uses way better seal brown or black leathers than RMC. RMC leathers are of great quality I bet, but they just did not appeal to me the way RC or FW or even FH black leather as @Brandrea33 mentioned. Add to this experience/ perception, I found Nelson and Mobster are not good fit for my body type (6’ tall with trapezoid and longer than average torso). They were both short and baggy at hem (only tried at stores, never bought them) with size 44 (size 42 was very tight at shoulder/ chest).

On the other hand, as I mentioned already, FW or RC and FH leathers are unlike anything I have touched in their own unique ways. Special stuff all around. FW especially pays a lot of attention to every aspect of jacket making and uses high quality materials overall. RC Hercules, FW rebels (extremely underrated brother to Mulholland imo) and FH single rider fit perfectly at my usual size 42. Mulholland 42 was not a comfortable fit at shoulder and abdomen. I tried two different batches of size 42 hoping second one may have + half inch at shoulder. No luck. As a last resort I tried size 44 based ln recommendation from a FW connoisseur connection on IG (https://instagram.com/wardrobe5572216?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==who) who wears same size as I do on most jackets but sized up on mulholland. It was perfect!

Added fit pics of all jackets mentioned that I gave for reference. Cheers!
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Really appreciate the detail response!!! Such a help, I can't tell you! All the jackets look amazing on you! Cheers!

 

[Tom71]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah that really helps. RMC is getting a bit of a rough treatment. I have no prejudices yet, I like all the suggestions. So you think I should add Himel to my list as well? I did check them out but the cut didn't grab me... but then again, I'm just looking at photos.

I just mentioned Himel as I find his (oil-tan) leather is nicer than the leather on the FW.

As to designs, he doesn´t offer anything similar to the Mulholland/Mobster.

He´s expensive, and I always had good experience with him personally and my jackets are super. Others have less positive experiences with him (well documented here).

 

[111Joel111]

If you do just want the style, the original of the Mobster is a Californian Sportswear CHP jacket and there are a bunch of brands that do very similar thing as well, not too hard to find. If you want the vintage of the Mulholland, tough luck, Trojans are gonna be way more expensive and infinitely rarer than a Mulholland.

Cheers! Thanks for the tip!

 

[Blackadder]

If you do just want the style, the original of the Mobster is a Californian Sportswear CHP jacket and there are a bunch of brands that do very similar thing as well, not too hard to find. If you want the vintage of the Mulholland, tough luck, Trojans are gonna be way more expensive and infinitely rarer than a Mulholland.

Yes, the Mobster is a straight up copy of an early version Californian. You are right that one can find quite a few of the similar later versions most likely with side laces but not necessarily the early one. The Muholland is more a tweaked versions of the CHPs and Higwayman

I just looked at the Cal website and their new jackets are incredibly expensive, some reaching nearly $3k. Definitely prefer the pricing of the vintage Cals, haha.

I am not sure if OP wants a Cal or a generic CHP. Neither the Muholland nor the Mobster has side laces which is the dominating feature of most vintage or contemporary CHPs. I have a Sugar Cane repro with the side laces so I wanted one without and ended up buying a Mobster and an original Californian.

 

[111Joel111]

I was going to say- with some patience and dedicated hunting, a great vintage straight zip CHP can be had for $250 or less. Especially if the jacket is missing the label. Cals, CSC, All Weather and on and on.

Amazing where do I look for these? Where do I find one?

 

[111Joel111]

I see you’re from Canada … if you happen to live it the GTA give David a ring and check out some of his jackets!

Yeah I live in Toronto... I totally should do that! Good tip!

 

[111Joel111]

I just mentioned Himel as I find his (oil-tan) leather is nicer than the leather on the FW.

As to designs, he doesn´t offer anything similar to the Mulholland/Mobster.

He´s expensive, and I always had good experience with him personally and my jackets are super. Others have less positive experiences with him (well documented here).

oh ok... good to know. Cheers!!!

 

[111Joel111]

Yes, the Mobster is a straight up copy of an early version Californian. You are right that one can find quite a few of the similar later versions most likely with side laces but not necessarily the early one. The Muholland is more a tweaked versions of the CHPs and Higwayman

I am not sure if OP wants a Cal or a generic CHP. Neither the Muholland nor the Mobster has side laces which is the dominating feature of most vintage or contemporary CHPs. I have a Sugar Cane repro with the side laces so I wanted one without and ended up buying a Mobster and an original Californian.

Yeah... definitely don't want laces. Cheers!

 

[Blackadder]

Yeah... definitely don't want laces. Cheers!

I did a pic comparison. The Mobster is just missing the badge holder.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...hat-have-mccoys-done-with-this-jacket.106692/

 

[Canuck Panda]

That's an amazing review! Wow, again, really helps! Thanks for taking the time to write all that! I'm 6' I wear watches... I'd ideally like to be able to fit a sweater under it and wear it through the winter (here in Canada) But the Mulholland doesn't sound like it's that kinda jacket. I'm kinda thrown off by the sizing, too measurements for a 38 are the same sizes as my most my jackets but I'm being kindly advised to go bigger on this one. Maybe the Mulholland isn't the right jacket as you mentioned.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Mulholland is only available on the reseller market now. There will be NOS ones coming out but they're gonna ask for at least ¥300,000 for them like the current brown La Brea NOS jacket that's on sale. At this price level many things opens up.

Now that others have mentioned I am surprised Himel never made a Mulholland. His zipped Heron is the buidling block of the Mulholland, just add the bottom band stitchings and underarm footballs. It would actually have an edge over the Mulholland because it has those small side triangles. Mulholland is really a fantasy jacket that was a later CHP jacket made to fit into the 30's leathertog family FW has so everything looks cohesive. They did a wonderful job but the side triangles on the Heron block is quite useful, its a proven CHP design. Himel is overpriced too but he has the mid brown Shinki. Other can only get this if they custom order from Shinki like he did. Although I am assuming he shares some of the leather with GoodWear but it would come down to what's the waiting time. At 6' size 38 suits it's gonna be hard to find OTR to fit from Japan or most brands really, the sleeves will always be too short. I think the stock spec for size 38 nape sleeve is gonna be in the 34" to 34.5" range, and at 6' tall you need at least 35".

A word of caution though, starting at the top doesn't guarantee no running down this leather rabbit hole. Especially you've found this place. Even if the first top jacket is perfect, it might not be your last one...

If you do plan to visit Japan in the next few months maybe hold out to check out the stores near the Ueno zoo. Americaya has all three colors of the Rainbow Country Highwayman, from black to seal brown to their new tobacco brown. That jacket is like a smash up of the two you were looking for, Mulholland and Mobster. Rainbow Country feels a little bigger, so maybe the 40 will work out just perfect. Their current Tobacco brown horsehide is really hard to beat.

 

[Sagar85]

That's an amazing review! Wow, again, really helps! Thanks for taking the time to write all that! I'm 6' I wear watches... I'd ideally like to be able to fit a sweater under it and wear it through the winter (here in Canada) But the Mulholland doesn't sound like it's that kinda jacket. I'm kinda thrown off by the sizing, too measurements for a 38 are the same sizes as my most my jackets but I'm being kindly advised to go bigger on this one. Maybe the Mulholland isn't the right jacket as you mentioned.

Agree. Look into RC Hercules or single rider.

 

[Brandrea33]

Another thing to keep in mind is that Mulholland is only available on the reseller market now. There will be NOS ones coming out but they're gonna ask for at least ¥300,000 for them like the current brown La Brea NOS jacket that's on sale. At this price level many things opens up.

Now that others have mentioned I am surprised Himel never made a Mulholland. His zipped Heron is the buidling block of the Mulholland, just add the bottom band stitchings and underarm footballs. It would actually have an edge over the Mulholland because it has those small side triangles. Mulholland is really a fantasy jacket that was a later CHP jacket made to fit into the 30's leathertog family FW has so everything looks cohesive. They did a wonderful job but the side triangles on the Heron block is quite useful, its a proven CHP design. Himel is overpriced too but he has the mid brown Shinki. Other can only get this if they custom order from Shinki like he did. Although I am assuming he shares some of the leather with GoodWear but it would come down to what's the waiting time. At 6' size 38 suits it's gonna be hard to find OTR to fit from Japan or most brands really, the sleeves will always be too short. I think the stock spec for size 38 nape sleeve is gonna be in the 34" to 34.5" range, and at 6' tall you need at least 35".

A word of caution though, starting at the top doesn't guarantee no running down this leather rabbit hole. Especially you've found this place. Even if the first top jacket is perfect, it might not be your last one...

If you do plan to visit Japan in the next few months maybe hold out to check out the stores near the Ueno zoo. Americaya has all three colors of the Rainbow Country Highwayman, from black to seal brown to their new tobacco brown. That jacket is like a smash up of the two you were looking for, Mulholland and Mobster. Rainbow Country feels a little bigger, so maybe the 40 will work out just perfect. Their current Tobacco brown horsehide is really hard to beat.

Great info here. I wondered as well about being 6’ tall but wearing a 38 … that’s gonna be a tough off the rack to find.

OP, out of curiosity, what are your measurement’s?

 

[Brandrea33]

Agree. Look into RC Hercules or single rider.

I wish they made a 46

 

[Sagar85]

I wish they made a 46

I believe they can if you go through McFly Store or Store Mirrorball. Usually RC invites retailers annually to their exhibition and takes orders. So, if you ask one if the retailers that you are looking for size 46, I think they can accommodate. It will take a year patience though

 

[Canuck Panda]

Only if my 3D printer can also print jackets...

 

[Brandrea33]

I believe they can if you go through McFly Store or Store Mirrorball. Usually RC invites retailers annually to their exhibition and takes orders. So, if you ask one if the retailers that you are looking for size 46, I think they can accommodate. It will take a year patience though

Well … just when I said I was done with leathers jackets LOL

I just may reach out. Lord knows, I’ve got patience!

 

[Rgcards]

Ok. Embarrassingly, I own the fh, the Mulholland, the mobster and the heron, as well as a Hercules from gw. Brandrea sold me two. The Mulholland fits strangely in my opinion, it's not tapered much, it either fits well around the chest or the abdomen. The rmc is a better fit, but in the same size it's a little bigger on me. The flathead is very nice, but it's really a different style altogether, it doesn't have the pocket stitching. There is also a list worlds chp which is nicer than all of the above, but too short for me and has the dreaded side laces; I sold mine to Carlos. I guess I gould take some pictures later so you can see for your self. I would go vintage myself, but vintage has the same issues as lost worlds, short with side lacess. I'm also not crazy about badge holders. You could talk to stu about custom, but that gets expensive fast