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Review of a Rainbow Country x Mirror Ball ltd. Ed 40's style Sports Jacket "Santa Clara" made from mahogany veg tan Buffalo Hide

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,665
Location
Switzerland
Intro:
When I saw the rainbow country "Santa Clara" on the homepage of the japanese reseller Mirror Ball, it was all over for me. Especially since I had not yet a leather jacket made of buffalo leather, tanned in Japan, in my jacket collection (which I have rigorously reduced to one well-known jacket manufacturer each, e.g. RC, FW, Himel, BK, DH, Protech and yes, 5Star in various types of leather).

Ltd. Edition:
According to Mirror Ball, this was a special run for the store in sizes 36 - 44, so there should only be 5 jackets from this series worldwide, because as far as I know, only one jacket was made per size. The jacket is now sold out. It would be cool to know if anyone else from this forum owns the "Santa Clara".

Details:
Manufacturer: Rainbow Country
Label: California Manufacturing Company
Type: "Santa Clara", 40s Sports Jacket
No. RCL10084 MB
Color: Dark Mahogany
Leather: 1.2mm Buffalo Hide

History:
The history of the jacket can be found on the Mirror Ball homepage (unfortunately no longer listed because the advertising was deleted after the Jackets were sold): Remake of an original 1940's sports jacket ordered from Sears Roebuck for California MFG based on an hercules jacket but named as "Santa Clara".

Ordering/Shipping/Price:
Mirror Ball's customer service was, as always, reliable, fast and excellent. On customer's request, Mirror Ball also declare a lower value of goods in the customs declaration. This had the advantage, I didn't have to pay any customs duties. After deducting the Japanese tax (for export) and shipping to Europe via PayPal (with their poor but currently still low exchange rate), I paid ¥ 222,850 (€ 1,300.00 or US-$ 1,450.00) incl. shipping for the jacket. The jacket was delivered with EMS after about 5 business days from Japan to Europe.

IMG_7980.jpeg


Overall Impression/Processing:
Rumor has it, RC also makes FW's leather jackets. This jacket actually says so. The workmanship is very good, the seam/stitch length (olive thread) is short and tightly sewn. The folds are tightly folded. The front consists of a horizontal zipper and a slightly slanted breast pocket chain ball zipper. There are also two slanted front pockets. The collar is a little higher (due to the throat latch) and there are two waist panels on each side. The back of the jacket has a half belt with side adjuster straps at waist height. There are also three pleats which break up the one-panel back a slightly. It gives the back section a little more drape.

RC_Front_Jacket.jpg

RC_Back_Jacket.jpg


The Leather:
The Leather is a vegetable tanned buffalo leather in the color mahogany. The leather thickness is stated as 1.2 mm, but it feels thicker. It has a lighter brown core, which will pop up over time.

As with all my leather jackets, I first wore this one in a rain shower and the jacket developed a beautiful "patina and wrinkles" on sleeves in no time. According to Mirror Ball, the leather comes from a tannery in Japan (not Shinki and not Nitta). I am aware of the leather processing factory, but at the seller's request I have promised not to provide any further information. Thank you for your understanding.

RC_Leather.jpg


Hardware:
The main zipper is a talon with eyelets at the end of the zipper tape. It is well known, this type of zipper requires careful handling when operated. The chain ball chest zipper has the lettering "CAL MfG" on the ball, a nice little detail. The waist adjusters are also in a classic rectangular design. All the hardware is nickel. A throat latch with button closure is attached to the collar.
RC_Zipper.jpg

RC_Ball Chain.jpg

RC_Side Adjusters.jpg


RC_Underarm grommets.jpg


Lining:
The body and sleeve lining is a mid-weight wool fabric in olive color. It has three grommets under the armpit. There is an inside pocket on the left side, which is on lower position than usual and slightly slanted. Very comfortable to grab something in. The California MFG Co. logo with the size tag is attached to the inside pocket. The front pocket lining is made from a nine wale green corduroy. There is also a leather kidney panel in lower inside section of jacket to prevent the lining frayed out by wearing a belt etc. The cuffs have a two-button closure and are made of a double leather layer.

RC_Body Lining_Label.jpg

RC_Pocket Lining.jpg


Fit (Pictures see below):
The jacket pictured is a size 42", which fits me close to my body (especially in the shoulder and chest area) at 5'11" (180 cm) and 185 lbs (84 kg). I am wearing an LS shirt in the pictures. I can wear the jacket with a light sweatshirt e.g. Merz b. Schwanen, but it isn’t a jacket meant for layering. I am in the fortunate position many OTR jackets (also from Japanese production) correspond to my body type. However, I think the proportions of this jacket are not for everyone.

Conclusion:
I am very satisfied with the jacket. It certainly wasn't a bargain but reflects good value for money, especially with the current weak yen exchange rate.

Hope you enjoyed reading this review and thank you for your interest.
 
Last edited:

newtojackets

Practically Family
Messages
986
I was shocked when I read ‘reduced to one well-known Jacket’, until I read ‘Manufacturer each’

Stunning piece, wonder why the leather seller doesn’t want to disclose the factory
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,665
Location
Switzerland
Stunning piece, wonder why the leather seller doesn’t want to disclose the factory
I don't know either. But sometimes the Japanese are pretty quiet about certain things. There's not much to find out about RC itself and which companies they produce for, etc.

Sometimes you don't need to know everything, because that encourages speculation, rumours, etc. makes it exciting and also provides content in this forum. One big mystery has still not been solved: BK! :)
 
Last edited:

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,787
Location
CA
That was nice of them to help you on the value. I understand why sellers don't want to, if anything happens during shipping good luck telling the shipper your $200 jacket was actually $1500.
 

newtojackets

Practically Family
Messages
986
I don't know either. But sometimes the Japanese are pretty quiet about certain things. There's not much to find out about RC itself and which companies they produce for, etc.

Sometimes you don't need to know everything, because that encourages speculation, rumours, etc. makes it exciting and also provides content in this forum. One big mystery has still not been solved: BK! :)
I suspect RC are told not to disclose who they produce for since then some FW customers may switch to RC for a cheaper jacket
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
I suspect RC are told not to disclose who they produce for since then some FW customers may switch to RC for a cheaper jacket
They are getting quite expensive now too. Straight zips are now ¥250,000 and X zips are now ¥300,000 range, same price bracket as the Mccoys. Huge price increases over the past two years.
 

newtojackets

Practically Family
Messages
986
They are getting quite expensive now too. Straight zips are now ¥250,000 and X zips are now ¥300,000 range, same price bracket as the Mccoys. Huge price increases over the past two years.
All jackets have been getting too expensive imo. Japanese jackets, Aero, Lewis, Schott etc.

Don’t know how long these companies can keep increasing their prices before people stop buying
 

jchance

A-List Customer
Messages
335
Location
Los Angeles
All jackets have been getting too expensive imo. Japanese jackets, Aero, Lewis, Schott etc.

Don’t know how long these companies can keep increasing their prices before people stop buying

I remember reading somewhere that JP younger generations look down at any leather jackets priced below $2500 USD, seeing these jackets as a status symbol/bragging right to their friends.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,730
The more I look at this jacket the more I had wished I kept checking on Mirror Ball offerings. Kinda forgot about them and missed this one.

Congrats!
 

newtojackets

Practically Family
Messages
986
I remember reading somewhere that JP younger generations look down at any leather jackets priced below $2500 USD, seeing these jackets as a status symbol/bragging right to their friends.
As with many collector items (e.g. watches), some people just buy for the status of it.

I love my cheap vintage brooks just as much as my expensive RMC repro. To each their own I guess
 

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,787
Location
CA
Love rainbow country but my cheap ass will only get them used for under a grand.
 

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