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REQ: Photos of non-brown, non-Indy Adventurebilts (+ Reg vs Dlx)

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
Thanks Gents:)

Would you mind expanding a bit on your edge-binding process? What kind of needle do you use? And thread? How (and where on the brim) do you start? And how do you finish that seam at the back?

This is a pain in the behind to be perfectly honest... I've spent 5-6 hours just on that bloody brim edge on this one, so be preparred on bleeding finger tips and harsh words, when you do so ;) I use the thinnest needle I could get and a matching (thin) thread (the same as I use on the ribbon around the crown). The thread's gotta be LONG. VERY long! And the biggest pain is to NOT pull so tight that it rips (otherwise start all over) and not to get any knots into that long thread... I marked the back with a piece of chalk and then went clockwise around the edge of the brim. Once back in the back again, I fold a few millimeter of the ribbon inwards (so it has a nice and clead edge) and finish off with a double knot.

Regards,

Marc
 

MattJH

One Too Many
Messages
1,388
Marc said:
I've spent 5-6 hours just on that bloody brim edge on this one, so be preparred on bleeding finger tips and harsh words, when you do so ;)

I take back my questioning of the pricing. Good grief.
 
Messages
10,930
Location
My mother's basement
Marc said:
Thanks Gents:)



This is a pain in the behind to be perfectly honest... I've spent 5-6 hours just on that bloody brim edge on this one, so be preparred on bleeding finger tips and harsh words, when you do so ;) I use the thinnest needle I could get and a matching (thin) thread (the same as I use on the ribbon around the crown). The thread's gotta be LONG. VERY long! And the biggest pain is to NOT pull so tight that it rips (otherwise start all over) and not to get any knots into that long thread... I marked the back with a piece of chalk and then went clockwise around the edge of the brim. Once back in the back again, I fold a few millimeter of the ribbon inwards (so it has a nice and clead edge) and finish off with a double knot.

Regards,

Marc

Yeah, I was thinking it went something like that -- especially the long, long thread. I can't imagine how a person could do it with multiple knots along the way without it looking like hell, so a long thread it is. Someday, I'll give it a try, but not this day. I've already poked my fingers enough this weekend.
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
This seems like a place where doing it by machine would be advisable. Modern equipment must be available. Akubra can't be using all antique equipment, given their production volume, and their bound edges are wonderfully consistent and well done.

True! Except (yeah of course... this HAD to follow;) ), when I make a hat and I wouldn't be proud of it, it won't leave the hat shop. To some that is a little over the edge. Granted. But to me, if it CAN be done by hand, it SHOULD be done by hand. Otherwise I'm simply not happy with my own craftmanship. I have ABSOLUTELY no problem wearing a vintage Stetson Open Road with a (machine) bound brim or a similar style of hat, so no pun towards any other hatter at all. I just have a certain level of exspectation to myself and that is "if you write "Handmade by Marc Kitter for...." on the underside of the sweatband, it better is just that: handmade".

Beautiful Marc. Absolutely beautiful. Damn you do some fine work.

Thank you so much Douglas! I appreciate this very, very highly!!! I'd really like to make a similar one in a medium grey with a dark blue ribbon one day and since my father's name is working its way up the list, it might actually happen within TOO long.

I'm currently trying to work out something in order to be able and offer a true self felted edge as Cavanagh used to do it back then, but that's a different story and far from being in dry clothes yet.

Regards,

Marc
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Marc said:
I'm currently trying to work out something in order to be able and offer a true self felted edge as Cavanagh used to do it back then, but that's a different story and far from being in dry clothes yet.

Maybe you'll have better luck with your felter on a Cavanagh Edge, as he seems willing and able to go the extra mile for you. I know all the companies I've talked to say they'll never do them again. Good luck, and keep me informed!

Brad
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Marc said:
I'm currently trying to work out something in order to be able and offer a true self felted edge as Cavanagh used to do it back then, but that's a different story and far from being in dry clothes yet.

If you are able to work this out, expect your long lines to get much, much longer. It would be great accomplishment if you were the first hatter to be able to recreate and sell the most highly revered edge.
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
Oops! I didn't even KNOW that the Cavanagh edge is so desired:confused: To be honest, I just considered this a personal thing to be able to come up with one...

Regards,

Marc
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Marc said:
Oops! I didn't even KNOW that the Cavanagh edge is so desired:confused: To be honest, I just considered this a personal thing to be able to come up with one...

Regards,

Marc

You haven't hung out around here enough!lol

By the way, have you seen this thread? (Though something happened to all the apostrohpes during the last crash, and made a mess of things.

Really, I wasn't joking when I said keep me informed!:)

Brad
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
You haven't hung out around here enough!lol

Yeah, I guess when you're the bean counter, purchaser, hatter, customer service and developer in one person (and that in your spare time) it limits the available time down quite a bit;) My buddy Kim in Denmark will take over the shirts, buckles, holsters and belts from now on, so I have a little less to tackle in these regards :)

By the way, have you seen this thread?

Most interesting Brad!!! Thanks for sharing this :eusa_clap

Regards,

Marc

P.S.: Here are some pics of the Kaplan Sr. I was referring to in the other post. Both hats were purchased by Kaplan (from the Indylounge). One for his father as a birthday present and one for himself. Though obviously styled to match each other (as requested), they still differ in their general "feel" IMO.

done01-1.jpg


done02-1.jpg


done03-1.jpg


done04-1.jpg
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
Sure. Here's the Kaplan jr. from the inside.

I'll have new liners within a few months though (with our new logo that is woven instead of printed).

DSCN0881.jpg


The new liners will also be made from bridal satin, which is a little bit more smooth then viskose satin (and WAY more expensive I may add). It looks like silk really, but silk very easily becomes greasy and dirty (at least that's my personal experience) while bridal satin is a bit more resistent. Not sure why, just something I experienced over the years.

Regards,

Marc
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
Hey y'all,

I was doing some grocery with my wife on Saturday, getting my shoes polished up and my suit cleaned for my sisters wedding this upcomming Saturday.

Then it hit me: "I ain't got a matching hat for that day :eusa_doh: " And there's no way in "where-the-devil-lives" that my wife would gonna let me wear my beaten up Raiders Fedora for THAT occassion. So as soon as I came back home, I started working like a horse. I grabbed a grey rawbody, blocked it and did all kinds of weird things in order to make it dry faster. Next morning I got up early and continued working on the hat. I had some vague ideas of what I wanted but as always, the devil is in the detail. When I was done pouncing it, I simply couldn't believe how soft and pliable this felt had turned out. It felt so cloud soft and yummi, that I feared to have pounced it too thin but a quick re-measuring proved me wrong. So after sewing in the sweatband I went back to the hatshop to search for some golden vintage ribbon that Steve had given to me once. The bow design was really a pain in the behind and I spent LONG time fiddling around, before my wife had the idea of what would look best on this particular hat (two tone with some dark grey vintage ribbon - also from Steve). What she DIDN'T know, is that it would take a bloody hour just to get that darn bow to look as suggested :rage: Anyway, this "quick one day project" had already stunk up more time then originally planned, so I didn't want to start rushing things now, where everything else had turned out so nicely. At round about quarter to eleven that evening, the last stitch was done (except for the liner - which I haven't sewn in yet) and I could finally take a well deserved shower.

Today I fetched my suit from the chemical cleaner and put it on to see how it goes with the hat.

Here are the pictures, hope you like 'em (oh, and please excuse the stupid expression on my face - I'm not particularly fond of playing the dressman).

Front shot:

DSCN0953.jpg


Long arm shot:

DSCN0954.jpg


From above:

DSCN0955.jpg


Close up of the bow:

DSCN0946.jpg


Total:

DSCN0948.jpg


As always, feedback is highly appreciated.

Regards,

Marc
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Very cool bow. If your wife isn't on the payroll yet, she should be. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 

Nathan Flowers

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
3,661
Marc said:
Front shot:

DSCN0953.jpg


Long arm shot:

DSCN0954.jpg


From above:

DSCN0955.jpg


Close up of the bow:

DSCN0946.jpg


Total:

DSCN0948.jpg


As always, feedback is highly appreciated.

Regards,

Marc

I think a slightly narrower brim would look better, and your felt looks like butter-- smooth and supple. I'd like to see the ribbon in daylight, and I do like the bow treatment.
 

Marc

Vendor
Messages
124
Location
Germany
Thanks a lot Gentlemen:)

As for the narrower bow... I'm so used to see myself with hats of that very brim dimension, that I didn't want to take any risks on that one (as time was slipping away already). For me personally, that's the preferred width, but of course I can always trim it down later.

Regards,

Marc
 

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