Reproduction classic workwear

[Flat Foot Floey]

Does somebody here know about the brand "black sign"? Because they seem to make killer melton wool jackets!
Found this on tumblr:

And this on Rivet Head after searching google:
http://rivet-head.blogspot.de/2010/11/black-sign-melton-wool-railroad-jacket.html

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Japanese, of course. By Vintage Blue Inc. 47,000 Yen, and a limited range of sizes, of course:

http://vintageblue.co.jp/detail.php?pr=920

 

[simonc]

Yes there is some nice stuff sprouting up all over the land of Nippon http://www.phaeton-co.com/?pid=57053334

 

[flat-top]

Did they already tell if you get all the stuff you ordered or is it still a surprise? That leather jacket looks nice.

Yeah it's all there, jacket included! I can't wait!

 

[flat-top]

Package arrived! I sized up on the Menlo which was wise. A large would not have fit well. But I also sized up on the mackinaw, and it's pretty huge. In the winter with a sweater I suppose it will work.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Those are nice. From the rivethead link they must be a Japanese brand. So out of my size range. Too wide shoulders for Japanese clothes.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, amazingly the LVC leathers fit trim! Finally someone makes them trim, rather than the typical oversized absurdity.

Package arrived! I sized up on the Menlo which was wise. A large would not have fit well. But I also sized up on the mackinaw, and it's pretty huge. In the winter with a sweater I suppose it will work.

 

[SteveAS]

But I also sized up on the [LVC] mackinaw, and it's pretty huge. In the winter with a sweater I suppose it will work.

What'd you think of the Mackinaw? I ordered one, but I was disappointed it's extremely full cut below the armpit level and the dingy look (and unpleasant smell!) of the fabric. I have an actual 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw that looks much more crisp and is essentially odorless. I like the shawl collar and double-breasted styling of the LVC Mackinaw, but, given its shortcomings, I'll send mine back.

 

[flat-top]

I agree on all counts, but I'll still keep mine. It'll work for me I think with sweaters/ layers.
I do wish I had bought my actual size though...

 

[Rudie]

Are you talking about this 1920s Mackinaw they have done before or is there a different one now?

 

[SteveAS]

I do wish I had bought my actual size though...

What size do you need? Mine is a medium. If you want it, I'd be just as happy sending it to you as sending it back to Vente-Privee.

That looks like it, Rudie, though mine is red/black.

 

[flat-top]

I'm a true large, but I got an XL to be safe. It's funny, but I actually tried it on in a store a while back and loved it, but could not recall what size I tried on.
On a strictly superficial note, I love the hang tags on this particular jacket!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Does it have handwarmer pockets?

 

[Rudie]

No, it has just the patch pockets.

I own two of them. One in red/brown check and the other in a mix of black, charcoal, brown, and lighter grey or blue overcheck (don't remember exactly). I think they look great but they are very impractical. When I bought them I thought they would be similar to a pea coat in warmth, but they are unlined, the fabric is much lighter and also in a pretty open weave. The wind blows right thorough. The cut says cold chilly weather, but in reality it is good for mild sunny autumn days without wind. I took the black one to my trusted alterations tailor. I sourced heavy workwear cord (900 grams/m) and he makes a full lining from it. The coat is going to be much heavier but also much more useful to me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Interesting. Maybe this accounts for the fit problems (too big through the chest and below) discussed above. With a good heavy liner, this would be negated?

 

[Rudie]

I hope so. I don't have it yet. My tailor was unable to find suitable cord. I finally got it directly from a mill that makes fabrics for guild clothing, carpenters and such. And the cord is way cheaper than the British mills that offer similar weights. A meter costs only 16.75 EUR.

 

[Dinerman]

Most of the originals of that style were unlined, but they were using 32 and 40 oz felted wool.

 

[Rudie]

Yes, and that's a big difference. My pea coat used 32 oz felted wool and a quilted liner and was pretty warm. I imagine 40 oz. felted wool to be of similar warmth. But this LVC reproduction is about 20 oz. at the most. All style but no substance.

 

[Fly Boy]

What size do you need? Mine is a medium. If you want it, I'd be just as happy sending it to you as sending it back to Vente-Privee.

That looks like it, Rudie, though mine is red/black.

What kinda size is the LVC medium Steve?

 

[flat-top]

I saw this in person and it's killer
http://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/N...allany~~~~~wallace/03067.jsp?isSaleItem=false