Repro 1930s Sears Original Hercules jackets; whose is best?

[simonc]

Skizt get to the point, what do you want, really what do you want? Let's work from there. I refuse to diss anyone in public, but I will give you all my thoughts and feels on anything you want.

 

[handymike]

It's interesting to me-when you look at who voted for which that It splits down party lines (as I expected it would).

 

[schitzo]

Skizt get to the point, what do you want, really what do you want? Let's work from there. I refuse to diss anyone in public, but I will give you all my thoughts and feels on anything you want.

This is at me, right?

Well in that case, I want a Ventura in 16oz Japanese denim please. And if that's overly optimistic I can settle for a regular halfbelt. The financial backing is in place!

 

[regius]

Going with BK. Really dig how they went to such lengths with the accuracy. Including the trademark infringing label

I like how they did with a civvy jacket what other makers do with A2s.

Trademark infringing label, yes, hahaah, i remember we were discussing that! A hong Kong based traditional woven label maker wouldn't do it for me due to this...

 

[Iron Horse]

Can anybody comment on the fit and cut of the Rainbow County vs. the Good Wear?

 

[handymike]

Rainbow country is a bit boxier in fit. The GW was designed a bit more slim, and mine is slightly fishtailed towards the bottom. Rainbow has wider cuffs and larger throat latch. GW has a 2" drop in front and a longer mid-back section. John Chapman currently has an original 30's Hercules in possession, so if you want accuracy he can match it. Keep in mind, there is a wait for a GW, but the customization makes it well worth it IMHO. For example: my color is custom dyed by John. the RC comes in 4 colors- black, dark brown, red brown, and natural... all nice, but for the similar price, I chose John.

 

[Iron Horse]

Thank you very much Handy; given how short and trim half belts fit on a lot of guys back then, the slimmer option seems better to me. I'll just have to think about that wait list now.

 

[handymike]

Here's mine:

 

[Grayland]

I have the Rainbow Country in red brown in size 40 and I love the fit. Truth be told, I wish it was about an inch shorter (I'm 5'9), but the fit is incredible. Nice high armholes and slim sleeves. I don't consider it boxy at all. I bought it second-hand and while the red brown wouldn't be my first choice, it is a beautiful jacket. Here is the thread where I discussed it:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rainbow-country-single-rider-jacket.84401/

 

[handymike]

I should maybe clarify: by boxy I mean straighter up and down cut. Grayland's is a beauty. Perhaps the RC is closer to the original fit.

 

[nick123]

Changed my mind. Back to liking them all again. No winner.

 

[tmitchell59]

The BK is the closest to the original 30s Hercules cut. The lining, the leather, the label. They made a very nice copy. The GW Imperial is not a copy. It is something else. Two of my Favorites for different reasons.

I have maybe seen one other of the BK Hercules. I don't know if they make it now.

These jackets are long. I had the Aero and Johnson Leathers models and they were cut the same way. Kinda an odd fit. I think that is what Johns was referring to and what he worked out in his Imperial.

The Finish on the Imperial is just what it looks like in the pictures.

 

[regius]

Ahah, this is where it gets interesting. Me, idk what I'm talking about, I just know what Ken told me and when I saw it I didn't exactly study it carefully for I did not anticipate this conversation would come up several years later. I just noticed the wonky stitching and agreed that yes it did look rather crappy. Sloane, are you denying any of that?

Personally I need a closer look at some of these pics..

I can't say this for sure, but I was told by professional tailors that the only way to accurately copy is to take a jacket apart and iron the panels flat (and we know leather stretches so even this would be a proximal). If Ken's own jacket is still together....

 

[handymike]

The answer has changed over the years...
I now believe that Goodwear and Dave Sheely offer the best repro Hercules jackets. John has even incorporated the slight curve in the main zipper.

 

[regius]

Slight curve? Handy, please elaborate? Very curious


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[Alexlutov]

Aero Hercules horse hide leather Vincenza

 

[regius]

Rainbow country vs GW, the hand warmer pockets are different, but I'm sure GW chose the double welt pocket vs single welt by choice, Aero and Rainbow and BK all have single welt (so I suppose Sears had single welt). Aero skipped the detached cord collar. Rainbow GW and BK all have more curved collar, Aero opted for a tiny collar, kinda interesting, but i don't know what the original looks like

 

[regius]

what's the significance of the "original Sears Hercules" jacket anyway, was it the first time the Hercules nameplate came out? The very first leather jacket with this label?

 

[tmitchell59]

what's the significance of the "original Sears Hercules" jacket anyway, was it the first time the Hercules nameplate came out? The very first leather jacket with this label?

You pose interesting questions. I asked the same. Why this model?

It shows up in the Sears catalog around 1937 and is a featured jacket into the early 40s. It is not their first use of this label. They show several other leather jackets in their line up through out the years.

Here is an original. The chin strap has been moved to the hem? The side adjustment straps have been removed. The main zipper is also changed.

 

[cdallas]

I think “Original Hercules” comes from the fact that Aero has their other style that had the name “Hercules” . Just a guess.
Probably should update this thread since Good Wear has a new pattern more faithful to the original. My Good Wear Hercules above.