Recommended blogs & resources to learn about leather jackets

[navetsea]

how about that snake pliskin jacket from thedi?

sure a black jacket or black crosszip is iconic and is the "leather jacket" but realistically black crosszip is very limiting to certain style of clothes, sure you can wear it with anything and anywhere but it is not the most optimal look soonish you would feel you need another jacket in brown for example.

however if you have a cross (mc or aviator) like design but with buttons instead of zipper and in unusual color like grey or oxblood or teal or olive or anything special other than generic black or brown, then this color would look good with any clothes and with time the color would react to its base leather and change into warmer mellower tone as the base leather get browner with age and you get a very unique color that you wont miss a black or brown or a new jacket since yours has matured into nice color over the years.

the other advantage of cross buttons, you can move the buttons abit if years later you get bigger, and you can fix individual button easily than a failed zipper, and since you mention raw denim I suppose you also feel the button fly will crease and sit better or flatter as you sit, the same with jacket

 

[livioli]

how about that snake pliskin jacket from thedi?

sure a black jacket or black crosszip is iconic and is the "leather jacket" but realistically black crosszip is very limiting to certain style of clothes, sure you can wear it with anything and anywhere but it is not the most optimal look soonish you would feel you need another jacket in brown for example.

however if you have a cross (mc or aviator) like design but with buttons instead of zipper and in unusual color like grey or oxblood or teal or olive or anything special other than generic black or brown, then this color would look good with any clothes and with time the color would react to its base leather and change into warmer mellower tone as the base leather get browner with age and you get a very unique color that you wont miss a black or brown or a new jacket since yours has matured into nice color over the years.

the other advantage of cross buttons, you can move the buttons abit if years later you get bigger, and you can fix individual button easily than a failed zipper, and since you mention raw denim I suppose you also feel the button fly will crease and sit better or flatter as you sit, the same with jacket

That's a great idea! There is a similar jacket from Double Helix Works that looks quite nice. Regarding the color, I would love to wear a tea-core jacket. Given my budget, other color options will have to come later.

 

[handymike]

Thedi will be better fitting than Double Helix IMO…plus he has that beautiful Brucaccio.

 

[MrProper]

Given my budget, other color options will have to come later.

It begins... LOL

With buttons, be sure it's your thing. I had three jackets to button and then found that I just like zippers lol much better.
On the special color... at least in my experience, it doesn't replace black or brown, but is a great complement.

 

[Monitor]

There is a Schott and Lewis leather in London too. Are the Japanese ones different or better? I kind of subconsciously outed Schott because I didn't want something too classic/standard, but more something between unique and timeless.

You don't want Schott for being classic/standard but you want a Japanese copy of Schott?

Japanese leather jackets are the same as American or German or Italian. You're good with either.

...though perhaps not since if you're not Asian, Japanese brands won't fit you (at least not well enough to enjoy alyour overpriced jacket) so you can cross these off thelist.

It's not rocket science; Find the jacket you like, make sure it's not made of lambskin, see if there's mayne a cheaper alternative & buy it. You won't wear one jacket forever, despite how you may feel now.

The books, blogs, all the talk about it is mostly bs, advertising and shilling.
Not as big of a scam as with denim but close.

But regardless, there is no better and more knowledgeable resource on the internet about leather jackets than this forum.

 

[Poul]

First things first don't rush just read the manufactures sites like aero read carefully all of patterns style see what you like what appeal to you( great jackets) look at the ebay sellers who sells japanese brand like the real mccoys buzz rickson y2 maybe some of the blog like Jason from almost vintage style, t Mitchell on youtube there is of ton possibilities read this site see how it works maybe you want jacket with bi swing back maybe high armhole patterns just take your time

 

[Madhouse27]

Are you currently wearing something close to what you’re thinking about? If not, it might be a good idea to find a similar style jacket to make sure it looks good on you and more importantly…that you feel comfortable wearing it.

I remember as a young teenager getting the most unbelievably cool outfit at Chess King at the Bangor Mall. In that dark setting with the music blaring I was truly ready to become king of the nightclub scene. When I put it on for school the next morning, somehow things had changed. Under the glaring light of day, my ticket to chick magnet immortality had become the goofiest and cheapest looking outfit ever assembled. I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry but I quickly changed clothes. Despite the expense, I never wore it.

 

[TartuWolf]

This would be my recommendation of what to do BEFORE you look for / buy your "ultimate" jacket:
1 . Go around thrift stores, 2nd hand stores or just jacket stores in general. Try to find a leather jacket that fits you as close as possible. Don't have to buy it, just try on a lot of stuff, find the ones that fit best and carefully measure them, write things down. Now you have your initial measurements down.
2 . Go to 5*, pick the jacket you like most and send them the measurements that you gathered from trying various jackets. Go for the thick premium goat as it is the cheapest and (arguably) the best leather. Get a decent jacket for ~200$ and become very confident about your measurements. This experience will give you a good idea of what you need/want in terms of measurements to get a good fit.
3 . Now you are much more ready to hunt for your "ultimate" jacket in terms of measurements or fit.

Yes this plan is not perfect as different patterns fit differently. But at least you have a solid base to start from. And hopefully a pretty nice 5* beater jacket on which you can experiment and not be afraid to damage.

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ These last two posts are what I was attempting to articulate from my first one. Perhaps I just was not clear enough.

What I started into this hobby, there was no internet, Fedora Lounge, or forums to ask such questions. We had a Wison's in our local mall, and I liked to check stuff out in there (late 80's). I tried on dozens of jackets before I bought my first one.

Then a really cool thing happened my second year in college. A friend came to me with his coss-zip Excelled leather jacket - complete with chains on both sleeves and an eagle painted on the back. He said - "Here, it's yours for a year." I had to gulp and smile, and was simply astounded by this kind gesture. It took a bit before I could wear it in public, but I did - eventually. And while the chains & eagle were never quite my style, that Excelled cross zip was a game changer for me. I've had something similar to it ever since. Sadly, I did have to give that one back to my buddy Dave, but had I not, I would still have it today.

 

[livioli]

You don't want Schott for being classic/standard but you want a Japanese copy of Schott?

Japanese leather jackets are the same as American or German or Italian. You're good with either.

...though perhaps not since if you're not Asian, Japanese brands won't fit you (at least not well enough to enjoy alyour overpriced jacket) so you can cross these off thelist.

It's not rocket science; Find the jacket you like, make sure it's not made of lambskin, see if there's mayne a cheaper alternative & buy it. You won't wear one jacket forever, despite how you may feel now.

The books, blogs, all the talk about it is mostly bs, advertising and shilling.
Not as big of a scam as with denim but close.

But regardless, there is no better and more knowledgeable resource on the internet about leather jackets than this forum.

Hi Monitor,

Thanks for your refreshing opinion! I am obsessing too much, aren't I?

I only have the budget for one good jacket so I'm trying to make sure it's the right one. Who knows, maybe I'll become a millionaire one day and start a collection ha! But You're right, in the end, it's all about whether it looks good on me.

You misunderstood my point about Japanese jackets. I was just asking if the Japanese Schott was different (different materials etc.); I probably still won't go for Schott though. I'm flying to Japan in December so looking for good options. Both my parents are Chinese so they'll probably fit me better than most Americans.

I'm completely aware that realistically I won't wear it forever. But purchasing an item, with the intention of wearing it forever, I think is a good one. A slow approach to fashion. It's good for the environment, but for my wallet mostly!

 

[livioli]

This would be my recommendation of what to do BEFORE you look for / buy your "ultimate" jacket:
1 . Go around thrift stores, 2nd hand stores or just jacket stores in general. Try to find a leather jacket that fits you as close as possible. Don't have to buy it, just try on a lot of stuff, find the ones that fit best and carefully measure them, write things down. Now you have your initial measurements down.
2 . Go to 5*, pick the jacket you like most and send them the measurements that you gathered from trying various jackets. Go for the thick premium goat as it is the cheapest and (arguably) the best leather. Get a decent jacket for ~200$ and become very confident about your measurements. This experience will give you a good idea of what you need/want in terms of measurements to get a good fit.
3 . Now you are much more ready to hunt for your "ultimate" jacket in terms of measurements or fit.

Yes this plan is not perfect as different patterns fit differently. But at least you have a solid base to start from. And hopefully a pretty nice 5* beater jacket on which you can experiment and not be afraid to damage.

That's definitely a safer strategy for a newcomer like me. Much appreciated, thanks!

 

[livioli]

^^ These last two posts are what I was attempting to articulate from my first one. Perhaps I just was not clear enough.

What I started into this hobby, there was no internet, Fedora Lounge, or forums to ask such questions. We had a Wison's in our local mall, and I liked to check stuff out in there (late 80's). I tried on dozens of jackets before I bought my first one.

Then a really cool thing happened my second year in college. A friend came to me with his coss-zip Excelled leather jacket - complete with chains on both sleeves and an eagle painted on the back. He said - "Here, it's yours for a year." I had to gulp and smile, and was simply astounded by this kind gesture. It took a bit before I could wear it in public, but I did - eventually. And while the chains & eagle were never quite my style, that Excelled cross zip was a game changer for me. I've had something similar to it ever since. Sadly, I did have to give that one back to my buddy Dave, but had I not, I would still have it today.

Cool story man! Young people like me take forums like this for granted. I was complaining that even now, there aren't enough resources on the web ha!

This is the level of attachment I want to have with my clothes, and what got me into heritage clothing in general. Looking forward to seeing your collection as I roam around TFL.

 

[navetsea]

if you search finecreek in yt I bet you will get a lot of result like this, and after you find one it leads to plethora of other japanese channels.
regarding teacore prematurely browning, I guess it is just a top coat really, you can buy fiebing's leather dye, and lightly pat some color back in diluted volume so you can feel how much color saturation you want to add back, just stamp them with a bun of cotton shirt here and there, but honestly I doubt you can brown them entirely that you feel you need to redye them, I once dye natural hide with black dye and have it made into a jacket, and over 2-3 years it does fade back showing some of its undercolor, but so far I kind of liking the color and not yet bothers me to pat on some black dye back onto it.

 

[Monitor]

Hi Monitor,

Thanks for your refreshing opinion! I am obsessing too much, aren't I?

I only have the budget for one good jacket so I'm trying to make sure it's the right one. Who knows, maybe I'll become a millionaire one day and start a collection ha! But You're right, in the end, it's all about whether it looks good on me.

You misunderstood my point about Japanese jackets. I was just asking if the Japanese Schott was different (different materials etc.); I probably still won't go for Schott though. I'm flying to Japan in December so looking for good options. Both my parents are Chinese so they'll probably fit me better than most Americans.

I'm completely aware that realistically I won't wear it forever. But purchasing an item, with the intention of wearing it forever, I think is a good one. A slow approach to fashion. It's good for the environment, but for my wallet mostly!

Obsessing is good, especially if it is to ensure you're getting your moneys' worth but you have to understand that mostly everything you'll read online is advertising and shilling. I know I sound paranoid but don't trust anyone!

For instance, you've got all those people telling you how Fine Creek is the end-all of leather jackets while it in fact barely qualifies as a decent maker. Look at those nerds in the video @navetsea posted discussing fu**ing creases. Creases, man! Makes me embarrassed I ever wore a Perfecto.

The allure of Japanese brands is (used to be) exclusivity and rareness & even though that is no longer the case & the Japanese jackets are as readily available as any other, the internet will still pretend this isn't the case in order for them to maintain those idiotic prices which are as such not because the jackets are magically better but because importing them costs a lot.

In Japan, jackets by brands like Fine Creek, RMC, Rainbow Country, Double Helix etc. are not expensive. Or rather, they're equally priced as their American counterparts. All these companies exist because US/European made jackets were just as exclusive and rare in Japan at the time and the market for reproductions became ripe enough for local makers to make money by producing copies for the local market at a lower cost than what importing American jackets would cost.

The fact that the price of RMC in the UK is as much as it costs in Japan doesn't make it better. Just pricier.

If you like Japanese brands, by all means, go for it but know that most of your money will go into looking like you've got a lot of money while the quality reaches its limits at $600.

Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking? Search local, first. Then what's near-by.

As for the companies I personally would recommend, there are only three; Schott, Vanson and Lost Worlds. All three will get you a guaranteed life-time jacket. Personally, I'd go fully custom Vanson of all three. It'll cost more than Schott but still less than Lost Worlds and quality-wise, you're set for life.

 

[TartuWolf]

@Monitor
"he Japanese jackets are as readily available as any other" - I had the opposite impression while reading stuff on this forum. I heard it's basically impossible to walk into a store and buy a jacket your size. You have to order and then wait a couple of years. And even the window for ordering is something you have to wait for me.
While most US/UK brands will have readily available stuff or make it for you rather quickly in comparison.
Did I get the wrong impression?

"Personally, I'd go fully custom Vanson of all three." - totally agree on this one, would love to do this in the future myself, but I'm still very squeamish about ordering/buying anything from the US. Not a fan of getting slaughtered by shipping costs and taxes haha.

 

[Monitor]

@Monitor
"he Japanese jackets are as readily available as any other" - I had the opposite impression while reading stuff on this forum. I heard it's basically impossible to walk into a store and buy a jacket your size.

They sell out in-store quickly but they're always available for an online purchase.

 

[navetsea]

Obsessing is good, especially if it is to ensure you're getting your moneys' worth but you have to understand that mostly everything you'll read online is advertising and shilling. I know I sound paranoid but don't trust anyone!

For instance, you've got all those people telling you how Fine Creek is the end-all of leather jackets while it in fact barely qualifies as a decent maker. Look at those nerds in the video @navetsea posted discussing fu**ing creases. Creases, man! Makes me embarrassed I ever wore a Perfecto.

The allure of Japanese brands is (used to be) exclusivity and rareness & even though that is no longer the case & the Japanese jackets are as readily available as any other, the internet will still pretend this isn't the case in order for them to maintain those idiotic prices which are as such not because the jackets are magically better but because importing them costs a lot.

In Japan, jackets by brands like Fine Creek, RMC, Rainbow Country, Double Helix etc. are not expensive. Or rather, they're equally priced as their American counterparts. All these companies exist because US/European made jackets were just as exclusive and rare in Japan at the time and the market for reproductions became ripe enough for local makers to make money by producing copies for the local market at a lower cost than what importing American jackets would cost.

The fact that the price of RMC in the UK is as much as it costs in Japan doesn't make it better. Just pricier.

If you like Japanese brands, by all means, go for it but know that most of your money will go into looking like you've got a lot of money while the quality reaches its limits at $600.

Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking? Search local, first. Then what's near-by.

As for the companies I personally would recommend, there are only three; Schott, Vanson and Lost Worlds. All three will get you a guaranteed life-time jacket. Personally, I'd go fully custom Vanson of all three. It'll cost more than Schott but still less than Lost Worlds and quality-wise, you're set for life.

the geek in me like those videos lol, I like brand new vs 3 months wear vs 3 yrs wear comparison pictures, few years ago it's pretty easy to find such posts in heddels but these days only local japanese channels and perhaps thai channel when it comes to denim do that things

 

[livioli]

the geek in me like those videos lol, I like brand new vs 3 months wear vs 3 yrs wear comparison pictures, few years ago it's pretty easy to find such posts in heddels but these days only local japanese channels and perhaps thai channel when it comes to denim do that things

Same, I quite like them too. I mean, all we're geeks here it seems to me. The allure of the aging process is nothing new, but it's a matter of opinion I guess.

 

[livioli]

Obsessing is good, especially if it is to ensure you're getting your moneys' worth but you have to understand that mostly everything you'll read online is advertising and shilling. I know I sound paranoid but don't trust anyone!

For instance, you've got all those people telling you how Fine Creek is the end-all of leather jackets while it in fact barely qualifies as a decent maker. Look at those nerds in the video @navetsea posted discussing fu**ing creases. Creases, man! Makes me embarrassed I ever wore a Perfecto.

The allure of Japanese brands is (used to be) exclusivity and rareness & even though that is no longer the case & the Japanese jackets are as readily available as any other, the internet will still pretend this isn't the case in order for them to maintain those idiotic prices which are as such not because the jackets are magically better but because importing them costs a lot.

In Japan, jackets by brands like Fine Creek, RMC, Rainbow Country, Double Helix etc. are not expensive. Or rather, they're equally priced as their American counterparts. All these companies exist because US/European made jackets were just as exclusive and rare in Japan at the time and the market for reproductions became ripe enough for local makers to make money by producing copies for the local market at a lower cost than what importing American jackets would cost.

The fact that the price of RMC in the UK is as much as it costs in Japan doesn't make it better. Just pricier.

If you like Japanese brands, by all means, go for it but know that most of your money will go into looking like you've got a lot of money while the quality reaches its limits at $600.

Where are you located, if you don't mind me asking? Search local, first. Then what's near-by.

As for the companies I personally would recommend, there are only three; Schott, Vanson and Lost Worlds. All three will get you a guaranteed life-time jacket. Personally, I'd go fully custom Vanson of all three. It'll cost more than Schott but still less than Lost Worlds and quality-wise, you're set for life.

I'm located in London. So there's Schott and Lewis leathers. Then there are Americana stores like Clutch cafe, Rivet and Hide...

Would you mind elaborating on your opinions pls? I want to agree, but it's hard to if you don't justify them.

" For instance, you've got all those people telling you how Fine Creek is the end-all of leather jackets while it in fact barely qualifies as a decent maker." (How did you reach this conclusion of it being a barely decent maker? I haven't heard anyone say that it's the best jacket.)

"The allure of Japanese brands is (used to be) exclusivity and rareness & even though that is no longer the case ..." (I have found it very hard to purchase most of these jackets online, let alone try them in person. They're almost always sold out and even if they are in stock, there are import costs. Plus, much like with denim, they don't communicate with their overseas market)

"If you like Japanese brands, by all means, go for it but know that most of your money will go into looking like you've got a lot of money while the quality reaches its limits at $600." (So the quality of a low-tier "Japanese" jacket is the same as that of a top-tier one? the Top tier being Himel Bros, Freewheelers, etc. Does this comparison apply to American-made jackets too?)

 

[Canuck Panda]

• Fine Creeks Leon Custom 1.3 or 1.5mm
  • love the design and the look of the leather
  • Not sure how I feel about the super-fast tea-core. It's meant to last for decades, so shouldn't the fading go at a similar pace? A fully brown look would be a little weird imo.
  • I probably prefer the slower-fading tea-core recipe of bigger brands like FW and RC.
• Rainbow Country "Ponyboy" Sports Jacket (out of stock everywhere)
• Double Helix Works 'Deviant'
  • https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/double-helix-deviant-jacket.106886/
• Tenjin Works Sports Jacket
  • https://tenjinworks.com/collections...s/sports-jacket-jw03-1?variant=41659876442319
• Freewheelers (La Brea and Centinela)
• "MOTOR NEW VINTAGE" ITALIAN HORSE FRONT DOUBLE SPORTS JACKET

What is Motor New Vintage jacket? You got a pic or link?

My votes goes to either FW La Brea or RC Ponyboy. The Centinela is cool but a bit hard to wear on a daily basis. There was one posted here. You can just search for it. You'd always have to wear it closed to make it work which isn't very practical for the one jacket. You're in London and can go check out the RMC Buco version, its not the same, but both very cool jackets.

Between the La Brea and the Ponyboy the Ponyboy is easier to pull off on a daily basis. Because no belt dangling and the main zipper is easier to live with. I have one, and there's a member here Dublinpremium he has two or three of the Ponyboy, look him up.

With Rainbow Country you can reach out to him on Facebook or Instagram, and ask him if there are any stocks of the Ponyboy in any one of his dealers. I am sure the Standard Workwear store have them in stock, maybe some other smaller shops too like Fresno. Just check. If you do go to the Standard Workwear store, can you take some photo of his fighter plane in the hanger? There is a Rainbow Country Single Rider thread here. Look that up for his dealer info.

With Freewheelers, there is no new stock anywhere. You would have to go to any of the vintage / reseller stores and ask them to put out an WTB ad for a NOS one. Be prepare to pay up to 400000 yen for one. I have a Fountainhead one and I am 99% certain it was the pattern from the Bootlegger days when they did that jacket in goatskin and narrower square shoulder. I do prefer the wide A2 shoulder version from FW era. Sleeves aren't long on the La Brea, so watch out for that. When I get my Bill Kelso one I will do a compare of all three.

The Fine Creek Leon No star is really a 150000 yen jacket in Japan, the RC and the FW are 200000 yen plus jackets. The big difference is the leather. I just don't think the current FC Leon is made with Shinki. I have not seen any blog in Japan saying they are. Only say Hemiji, not Shinki. Yes Shinki is in Hemiji and the Nita family owns like half the town, but the Leon leather looks brown not black like the Shinki teacore I know. I think that's where the price difference is at. If Shinki leather why would they (a business for profit) sell for much less. Just my theory. I am still on the look out for a deerskin Leon no star. But I don't rate the horsehide Leon as high. If I can find a used horsehide Leon in my size I would go for it just to see what's the difference. But just from photos I get a bit confused.

I would put Double Helix in the same group as Fine Creek. I have a DH Flag Waver jacket. It's good, but its still a new brand. And the horsehide is not as black as Shinki, more steel grey.

Tenjin works I know very little about. I had an opportunity to get one on the used market. But the seller wanted too much for it. Which brings me to this point. Look up the actual resale prices in Japan. You can do this usually just by googling the jacket model number, and find the aucfree website pages of that jacket. It will say how much and when it was sold. This gives you a different perspective on the new brand/jacket you're looking at.

If you are in London, maybe check out an Aero CXL jacket in one of their London dealers. And get a hand feel of RMC Shinki jacket in person. I think after this little field trip, you may become a two jacket guy, one CXL and one Shinki. Or not. Some USA makers also uses CXL. But the key is CXL, and thinner weight, like 2.5oz. CXL and Shinki are the two top horsehide leathers imo. This is my personal opinion so your experience may vary. But it doesn't hurt to see them both in person in the same setting. No words can describe.

Good luck and remember to post whatever jacket you end up with after your Japan trip.