Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Yes, it is a 1949 coat. And yes, it is made of Kersey.

The bare spots are moth nibbles, not holes, but just where the moth ate a little of the fabric. I wouldn't worry too much about them.

You did well. Congratulations.

 

[Tropic of Capricorn]

Yes, it is a 1949 coat. And yes, it is made of Kersey.

The bare spots are moth nibbles, not holes, but just where the moth ate a little of the fabric. I wouldn't worry too much about them.

You did well. Congratulations.

Thanks, Peacoat! Would you recommend altering the sleeve length? Was that a common practice even in the navy? Or should I just leave it well alone and ignore that extra .5"? Hehe.

 

[Peacoat]

I would have to see it on you for a definitive answer. But if it is .5" I would leave it alone. I much prefer having my sleeves too long than too short.

 

[bkackop555]

Hello new to this forum. I found it when I was looking up more information on peacoats specifically vintage ones.

I have a 1949 Peacoat and I was wondering what is all your opinions on why the 49 is so special is it look, feel or thickness?

I have a 1961 and I have a hard time telling the difference between the two maybe it's more subtle than I thought.

 

[bkackop555]

https://postimg.cc/LqQjZFBV] [/url

https://postimg.cc/rK90rLq6] [/url]

One is the 49 other is the 61. I can't tell the difference in the pictures. Just wanted to share a photo

 

[Peacoat]

Hello new to this forum. I found it when I was looking up more information on peacoats specifically vintage ones.

I have a 1949 Peacoat and I was wondering what is all your opinions on why the 49 is so special is it look, feel or thickness?

I have a 1961 and I have a hard time telling the difference between the two maybe it's more subtle than I thought.

It is subtle. It is the softness of the shell in the 1949 model.

 

[bkackop555]

followed a guide on how to hand wash wool. Some inexplicable reason the water turned pink and then a dark pink. Has anyone had experience with that happening. I'm merely amused. Also it seemed to have brought out a smell. Not bad but it smells almost like coaltar or selsun blue shampoo. Boy is it heavy wet

 

[spoonbelly1950]

It is subtle. It is the softness of the shell in the 1949 model.

I tried to compare my '58 to my '49. I also thought that the '49 was a tinch softer. I don't have a '61 to compare it to. The '58 I thought was a tinch "sandyer " than the '49. In your size ( bkackop555 ) you should be able to find my examples of smaller sizes. I also noticed in the bright sun that the '49 was a tinch " bluer ". Maybe that's due to age and maybe some fading?? The '58 does feel a tiny heavier than the '49????? I have 9 Kerseys and all across all of them there are faint differences in colors and intensities. " Please be careful for this hobby is addicting ".

 

[Peacoat]

Hey all! Novice here who recently picked up my very first vintage US navy peacoat from eBay. It just arrived in the mail this afternoon. I wanted to share some photos before it goes to the dry cleaners—and send out a few inquiries.

View attachment 732728

View attachment 732739

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Based on Peacoat’s incredibly useful and comprehensive guide to dating pieces, I believe that, based on its tag, what I purchased is from 1949. As such, I am assuming that it is made of Kersey wool.

View attachment 732730

A few observations on the fabric and fit (fit pics forthcoming after it comes back from the cleaners):

- It has great body and is quite structured as opposed to being “spongy” or “drape-y”
- Very heavy—I can already tell that it will keep me quite toasty during Northeastern winters
- I usually wear a size 36S (36.5 chest, 31.5 waist, 5’5, 136 lbs); the coat is 36R. Overall, it’s looks quite boxy on me but not overly so. I can wear layers underneath, quite possibly even thick sweaters.
- Coat's shoulders are just slightly wider than mine; no problem as I will probably fill it out when I wear thick sweaters
- Surprisingly, it’s not too long as I initially feared, could be shorter but still looks well-proportioned on me to my eye.

What is bothering me, though, is the sleeve length—it’s about 1/2” longer than the recommended length (i.e., 3/4 of length between wrist and base of fingers). I know that the 1949 vintage is known for its two rows of stitching 3” above the cuff and one row just above. Still, should I proceed to have the sleeve length altered or should I just leave it alone and preserve the proportion of the above.

In terms of condition, overall, the coat is structurally sound, which is amazing given that it’s already 75 years old.

- No tears or holes in the lining
- No loose seams
- Armpit seams are still good though a portion of the lining stitching (around 1”) has started to be undone
- Buttonhole stitching still tight and with minimal wear
- Buttons are complete, only two needs tightening
- No stains, discoloration or tears in the shell fabric

View attachment 732738

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(Stitching for right armpit still quite sound and tight except for a small portion where it has loosened a bit)

What it has though are quite a number of “patches” where the fabric (see photos) seems to have been rubbed off / thinned out (or are these moth holes?). Most of these are quite small (almost imperceptible, you’d have to really look for them--I think the dark navy color helps hide them) though there a couple that are a bit larger. The latter, at first glance, aren’t particularly obvious as well though not sure if it will be the same under brighter / sunnier natural light.

View attachment 732740
A relatively small patch where the fabric seems to have worn out

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A few worn-looking areas on the right upper sleeve, one near the sleevehead is relatively larger

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Another area showing a relatively large patch of wear

I understand that a mint or near-mint 75-year-old peacoat are hard to come by—and are probably way more expensive that the $78 I paid for mine (incl. of shipping)—but may I know if these “patches” are quite common for peacoats of similar age / vintage?

Do later pieces (60s/70s) generally have less of these by virtue of being newer (assuming "ordinary" level of use and care by previous owner)?

Thanks in advance for the advice, fellas!

Those are moth nibbles, not holes. The older a peacoat is, the more opportunity it has had for the moths to have had their way with it.

 

[bkackop555]

I tried to compare my '58 to my '49. I also thought that the '49 was a tinch softer. I don't have a '61 to compare it to. The '58 I thought was a tinch "sandyer " than the '49. In your size ( bkackop555 ) you should be able to find my examples of smaller sizes. I also noticed in the bright sun that the '49 was a tinch " bluer ". Maybe that's due to age and maybe some fading?? The '58 does feel a tiny heavier than the '49????? I have 9 Kerseys and all across all of them there are faint differences in colors and intensities. " Please be careful for this hobby is addicting ".

It is addicting but sadly you can only wear one at a time. I have hand washed them both in cool water and hung to dry with a fan. They come out perfect and feel much better. Then brushed out. I have to say my 61 feels much smoother than my 49, but my 49 fits nicer even tho the measurements are almost identical. I do think that my 61 is heavier than the 49 but with blind testing I was 50/50 on picking the right coat

 

[spoonbelly1950]

It is addicting but sadly you can only wear one at a time. I have hand washed them both in cool water and hung to dry with a fan. They come out perfect and feel much better. Then brushed out. I have to say my 61 feels much smoother than my 49, but my 49 fits nicer even tho the measurements are almost identical. I do think that my 61 is heavier than the 49 but with blind testing I was 50/50 on picking the right coat

I wore my '49 the other day. It has been winter up here in NY. My '49 feels like a thicker Kersey material.

 

[edbaht]

How’s the fit? Looks to be a 1950s, maybe a 1949, peacoat 40R. Seems a tad bit big but I might make it work. Concerned about the shoulders and arms. I’ll likely get the sleeve brought in an inch

Side note, absolutely love the heft of this thing.

 

[RDS]

View attachment 749124

How’s the fit? Looks to be a 1950s, maybe a 1949, peacoat 40R. Seems a tad bit big but I might make it work. Concerned about the shoulders and arms. I’ll likely get the sleeve brought in an inch

Side note, absolutely love the heft of this thing.

I’d say the peacoat is definitely more than just a ‘tad bit big’ and at least one, and possibly two, sizes too large for you.

With just the one photo and the angle it’s been taken it isn’t the best to judge, however it’s does look too wide in the shoulders, too long in the sleeves and too long in the body.

Given all that I can’t see how you could make it work.

 

[edbaht]

I’d say the peacoat is definitely more than just a ‘tad bit big’ and at least one, and possibly two, sizes too large for you.

With just the one photo and the angle it’s been taken it isn’t the best to judge, however it’s does look too wide in the shoulders, too long in the sleeves and too long in the body.

Given all that I can’t see how you could make it work.

Haha I think I was too in love with it while I have it and gave me heavy bias. But you are right now that I look at it again. I’ll resell and keep searching for a size down, maybe even another. Oh well!

 

[Peacoat]

@edbaht As that is probably a 1949 peacoat, I would keep it. Everyone needs two peacoats. One for layering and one for a trim fit, without layering. If you live in a cold climate where it regularly gets below freezing, you will want to layer. This is your coat.

Below is the guide on getting the proper fit in the US Navy peacoat.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ze-in-a-us-navy-pea-coat.110255/#post-2986330

 

[edbaht]

@edbaht As that is probably a 1949 peacoat, I would keep it. Everyone needs two peacoats. One for layering and one for a trim fit, without layering. If you live in a cold climate where it regularly gets below freezing, you will want to layer. This is your coat.

Below is the guide on getting the proper fit in the US Navy peacoat.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ze-in-a-us-navy-pea-coat.110255/#post-2986330

Thank you for the guide! And I’ll consider keeping it around just for that, though even with a sweater underneath it might be too big

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you for the guide! And I’ll consider keeping it around just for that, though even with a sweater underneath it might be too big

Think about ten years from now. As you get older, you will put on a few pounds. What today fits large, even with a sweater, may be a perfect fit in a few years.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Thank you for the guide! And I’ll consider keeping it around just for that, though even with a sweater underneath it might be too big

You should be able to find coats that fit you well taking in consideration of your size. The larger coats are more of a challenge to find.

 

[Mawashi]

Hi guys,

I had messaged Peacoat and he suggested that I post here too as it might be helpful. He said the peacoat dates back to the 1945 but I have no idea why any advice on how to read the serial no please?

Warmest regards,

Mawashi

 

[bkackop555]

There is a Peacoat dating thread with pictures of tags on it they didn't keep the same tag they changed the tags quite often so it makes it easier to narrow it down. Peacoat has put a lot of effort into having the tags compiled for every year and it makes it easy to track it