Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[spoonbelly1950]

The labels for the DSCPs are on the inside pocket on the right side of the coat under the front buttons. On the 6th line of the labei is the "contract : SP01001 02 D 0 0303 The number 02 is the manufactured year = 2002
My 1995 coat, which is a Bremen Bowdon, has a 95 in the contract number. My 2002 is also a Sterlingwear.

 

[Peacoat]

How tall are you? I'm 6-2 and have 2 DSCP coats. One is a 1995 46XL and the other is a 2002 46XL. The 1995 is a tinch tighter as the buttons have been sewn 1/4 inch closer to the right side. The 2002 feels normal
P.S. I'm not new here. I did take a couple of peacoat years off.
P.P.S. Borh bodies and the sleeves fit me great . They are not too long.

Hey Spoon: What happened to your original account?

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I'm also 6'2. Weigh 255 lbs. Longish arms 36/37 in dress shirts. The 46L DSCP is made by Bremen-Bowdon and I can get it for like $95 shipped. The 46XL made by Sterlingwear of Boston is like $135 but I could probably talk them down some. How can you tell the years on the DSCPs? I've posted photos of the tags of both coats in question. Thanks.

I could be wrong but you sound like a size 48XL to me. I'm 6 2 215 - 220 36 inch sleeve.

Hey Spoon: What happened to your original account?

Peacoat - one day I went into it to do something and came out screwing something up. I forget what it was. I'm really bad with computers and cell phones.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I could be wrong but you sound like a size 48XL to me. I'm 6 2 215 - 220 36 inch sleeve.

Peacoat - one day I went into it to do something and came out screwing something up. I forget what it was. I'm really bad with computers and cell phones.

I could be wrong but you sound like a size 48XL to me. I'm 6 2 215 - 220 36 inch sleeve.

I could be wrong but you sound like a size 48XL to me. I'm 6 2 215 - 220 36 inch sleeve.

Peacoat - one day I went into it to do something and came out screwing something up. I forget what it was. I'm really bad with computers and cell phones.

Your Sterling 46L was made in 2001. The B&B was made in 2002.
Peacoat - one day I went into it to do something and came out screwing something up. I forget what it was. I'm really bad with computers and cell phones.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

First post here. Apologies if this has been covered. I'm looking to replace my cheap XL Old Navy peacoat with an authentic U.S. Navy peacoat that has a bit more room and length. I've stumbled across this one and was wondering if I could get some info on it. I believe it would be 1980s or later correct? I'm a bigger guy and have measured myself to be 46" around the chest and am 6'2", 255lbs. I have longer arms, and typically wear a 36/37 length sleeve in dress shirts. Just curious if this is worth pursuing. Thanks!

​

DSCP Quarterdeck Enlisted Men's Overcoat 46L U.S. Navy Wool Heavy Peacoat Black Measured flat: Armpit to armpit 24" Armpit to hem 23.5" Shoulder to shoulder seam 19.5" Inseam sleeve 18" Waist 24" Hem 25.5" Length 36" Chest Size 48" (Jacket tag states a 46L, so not sure here) Material is 100% wool. Lining is 100% nylon. Heavy pea coat, double breasted. Pockets in front. Fully lined. Interior pocket. Very good condition.

Your Sterling 46L is a 2001. The B&B is a 2002.

 

[89five.o]

Looks like I was too slow on the B&B, the Sterling 46xl is still available though. You have me wondering about sizes now. Peacoat sizing advice on sites like Sterling's say to size up from your chest measurement. The advice here is to size down from your chest size. Not being a slender guy I wonder if the former makes more sense than the latter for me. Are you 46" around the chest Spoonbelly?

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Looks like I was too slow on the B&B, the Sterling 46xl is still available though. You have me wondering about sizes now. Peacoat sizing advice on sites like Sterling's say to size up from your chest measurement. The advice here is to size down from your chest size. Not being a slender guy I wonder if the former makes more sense than the latter for me. Are you 46" around the chest Spoonbelly?

I don't think I'm 46. I will get my wife involved after she finishs work today. It will be an easy 1-2-3 thing with her doing the measuring. The 46s and 46Ls fit me just fine.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I don't think I'm 46. I will get my wife involved after she finishs work today. It will be an easy 1-2-3 thing with her doing the measuring. The 46s and 46Ls fit me just fine.

I was measured as 44 on the chest.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Looks like I was too slow on the B&B, the Sterling 46xl is still available though. You have me wondering about sizes now. Peacoat sizing advice on sites like Sterling's say to size up from your chest measurement. The advice here is to size down from your chest size. Not being a slender guy I wonder if the former makes more sense than the latter for me. Are you 46" around the chest Spoonbelly?

We measured me as a 44 chest. The 46 sizes of US Navy peacoats fit me fine. I still think you might need a 48 Long or 48 Xtra Long - just my 2 cents.

 

[89five.o]

Good call on the 48L. Fits me well with room underneath for a sweater. Managed to grab a brand spanking new, unworn 48L with tags for $100!

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Good call on the 48L. Fits me well with room underneath for a sweater. Managed to grab a brand spanking new, unworn 48L with tags for $100!

I think you lucked out. If you want a little bit of a challenge start looking for a dark blue Kersey wool coat. There are very few of those in size 48. A Kersey coat in size 48 is very rare. We don't know if they ever made Kerseys in 48 Long. However, I think a 48 or a 48 regular would be long enough. It would be worth the hunt as Kersey coats are beautiful. That should be the best 100 dollar coat you ever had.

 

[GothamBat]

I recently came across a Peacoat that I believe is 1971 based off of the tag it it is navy issued. I only has three buttons and three button holes on one side and 2 buttons(I think it’s supposed to have 3-missing lower one) and only 1 button hole? Is this normal I thought you should be able to button the coat from either side (left and right)? There is also one button (big one same size as the front ones) on the right side under the lapel.

 

[GothamBat]

Here is the tag

 

[Peacoat]

1965 was the last year for the double row of button holes that allowed the coat to be buttoned from the left or the right. As you have a 1971 coat, that practice had been discontinued for 6 years by the time your coat met its seamstress.

The large button under the lapel on the right side is there so the coat can be buttoned up tight under the chin. There is a corresponding buttonhole on the left lapel that is there to accept the button under the right lapel.

 

[GothamBat]

1965 was the last year for the double row of button holes that allowed the coat to be buttoned from the left or the right. As you have a 1971 coat, that practice had been discontinued for 6 years by the time your coat met its seamstress.

The large button under the lapel on the right side is there so the coat can be buttoned up tight under the chin. There is a corresponding buttonhole on the left lapel that is there to accept the button under the right lapel.

Awesome thank you very much.
I had another question about Peacoat that I couldn’t find the answer to and that’s how do you find more information on navy Peacoat that is black in colour has 6 silver eagle buttons showing, looks like it is kersey or something woven I. That same patern(definitely not melton) and a tag saying “ experimental garment property of the u.s navy clothing and textile research facility Natick mass. Size:_40r__ no:___ contract no:_____” all information is left blank but the size. are these coats rare? Are they of the same quality of my 1971 Peacoat? I have a chance to buy one but I’m curious about if it’s worth getting?

 

[Peacoat]

Awesome thank you very much.
I had another question about Peacoat that I couldn’t find the answer to and that’s how do you find more information on navy Peacoat that is black in colour has 6 silver eagle buttons showing, looks like it is kersey or something woven I. That same patern(definitely not melton) and a tag saying “ experimental garment property of the u.s navy clothing and textile research facility Natick mass. Size:_40r__ no:___ contract no:_____” all information is left blank but the size. are these coats rare? Are they of the same quality of my 1971 Peacoat? I have a chance to buy one but I’m curious about if it’s worth getting?

What makes you think it is Kersey? All of the coats I have seen that appear black in color are Melton. Not saying this one is, but I just don''t know..

This may be one of the coats used in development of the current issue peacoats.

Can you post a picture of the tag and a close up image of the shell of the coat?

 

[GothamBat]

After giving it a 2nd look it looks like cotton. The reason I was saying not melton is because melton always seems “fluffy” so to say compared to kersey that you see more of the weaving of the fabric that is tight and less “fluffy”.

 

[GothamBat]

Any thoughts on what it could be or any other info?

 

[Peacoat]

Now that I have thought about it for a while, this coat is one that was used in the development of the peacoat that became the official model in 1980. As to the shell, I can't tell what it is. I do know that it isn't the Kersey or the Melton as we know it. Probably a fabric the Navy was trying out and subsequently discarded in favor of the Melton shell.

You asked earlier, is this coat rare? You betcha it's rare.

 

[GothamBat]

Peacoat your the best thanks again! So how do you determine it’s from 1980?