Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Dudley]

It was

It was, thanks!

I will be interested in your report on the finish/fabric of your 1949 Jacket score. My 1949 is a bit heavier feeling and the finish is more textured compared with my WWII's which has a stiff, smooth, more refined look and feel. My 1966 also has a more refined texture. So I will wear the more refined jacket with a collared shirt, and the more textured/informal version with a sweater. It is nice to have both. But at the end of the day, the peacoat is one of the most versatile jackets. I am splitting hairs.

 

[trentstanton]

I will be interested in your report on the finish/fabric of your 1949 Jacket score. My 1949 is a bit heavier feeling and the finish is more textured compared with my WWII's which has a stiff, smooth, more refined look and feel. My 1966 also has a more refined texture. So I will wear the more refined jacket with a collared shirt, and the more textured/informal version with a sweater. It is nice to have both. But at the end of the day, the peacoat is one of the most versatile jackets. I am splitting hairs.

Interesting. Will definitely report back. I think this one dates to 1945 considering it has "100% wool ornamentation" and anchors in the corners of tag. I could be wrong though, that's just what I got from the dating guide.

 

[Peacoat]

Interesting. Will definitely report back. I think this one dates to 1945 considering it has "100% wool ornamentation" and anchors in the corners of tag. I could be wrong though, that's just what I got from the dating guide.

It is a 1945 coat; Dudley is just trying to confuse us (me) again. Seldom am I confused in this thread, but that was before Dudley came along.

He needs a little good natured ribbing.

 

[spotmark]

It is a 1945 coat; Dudley is just trying to confuse us (me) again. Seldom am I confused in this thread, but that was before Dudley came along.

He needs a little good natured ribbing.

I think that was my fault. I didn't look at the label well enough and said it looked like a 49. I missed that it didn't have a contract number. Sorry. Is it possible that some 45s would also have eight buttons?

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Excellent idea. The cool patch will still be there, but it will be subdued, as were all of my patches and badges when I was in.

Who says Marines aren't creative thinkers?

My rough draft for the post was in crayon @Peacoat.

De Oppresso Liber and
Semper Fi
B

 

[Peacoat]

I think that was my fault. I didn't look at the label well enough and said it looked like a 49. I missed that it didn't have a service number. Sorry. Is it possible that some 45s would also have eight buttons?

Good question. The change over to the six button model was right at 1944/1945. So, it's possible that some coats manufactured in 1945 would have 8 buttons, but I doubt it. If they did, they would have the WWII tag and not the 1945 tag as seen above.

The Navy had been planning this change for a while, so when the change actually came, it would be a clean break from the 8 buttons to the 6 button models.

The 8 button coats continued to be authorized for wear up until the late 60s, at least. A good friend of mine wore his grandfather's WWII coat during that time. He gave me his issue 6 button coat, but wanted to hang on to his grandfather's coat. His 6 button coat is the one pictured as an example of the Post War coats, hanging on my deck. The tag is the one showing the 1965 tag. As might be imagined, we go way back, even well before 1965.

 

[Peacoat]

My rough draft for the post was in crayon @Peacoat.

De Oppresso Liber and
Semper Fi
B

When finished writing with them, I imagine they provided you with a nice snack.

I don't make Marine Corps jokes because I have too much respect for them, but since it is you, I broke my rule.

I see you figured out the Special Forces motto. As a life member of the Special Forces Association, I use it frequently.

Semper Fi Brother.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I will be interested in your report on the finish/fabric of your 1949 Jacket score. My 1949 is a bit heavier feeling and the finish is more textured compared with my WWII's which has a stiff, smooth, more refined look and feel. My 1966 also has a more refined texture. So I will wear the more refined jacket with a collared shirt, and the more textured/informal version with a sweater. It is nice to have both. But at the end of the day, the peacoat is one of the most versatile jackets. I am splitting hairs.

Just a couple things to keep in mind.
We are talking about Peacoats made of wool. A coat worn for everyday work in military service many decades ago, some decades since.
The finish, hand, will be a reflection of what care has been taken since issued.
Not all have been unused, thus pristine as we seek. Many have been subject to a life after service.
Therefore the finish, hand, can be totally “fuzzy” if machine washed at some points, “pilled” and rubbed smooth if beat on and unattended to, to wonderful “velvety” if un abused and lovingly preserved.
All wool, regardless of manufacture will reflect it’s care, kersey or melton it makes no difference.
I have my 50yo Marine issued wool overcoat that i wear every year, never dry cleaned, that still looks boot camp fresh with razor creases because it was never abused. I’ve seen many/most other of the same that look like an old fuzzy wool blanket due to machine washing etc.

Point being...each peacoat started as pristine but current hand, condition can be hard to determine if not in hand. Pics can be deceiving, impatience can be expensive.

Sizing...i don’t know about the Navy but in the Marine Corps every dress item was tailored in boot camp to fit each individual including the raincoat which was the outermost item. Hence sizing was all over the place. I did and still wear a 40-42 in everything. My overcoat is a 36L. So no idea if the Navy Peacoat sizing is the same.
Maybe some squid...err Navy guy can chime in on sizing.
Good luck in your searches guys.
B

PS: don’t feel bad @Peacoat, i got confused as hell too.

 

[O'DubhGhaill]

Here is a page to Sterlingwear of Boston sizing chart back when they were still making them for the USN. S/F!

 

[Peacoat]

Here is a page to Sterlingwear of Boston sizing chart back when they were still making them for the USN. S/F!

Thanks for the chart, but I think the coat size/chest size can be disregarded for the vintage coats (pre 1980) as the current issue coats are sized larger. My sizing guide, based on years of experience, is to get a vintage coat of the same size as your chest size if you want room to layer a sweater. For a more fitted look with no room to layer, get a coat one size smaller than your chest size.

The first step in determining proper peacoat fit is to obtain your bare chest measurement. For an accurate chest measurement, stand in front of a mirror so that your side is facing the mirror. Take a cloth tape measure and measure at the widest part of your bare chest (or wearing just a tight T-shirt). Make sure the tape is level from front to rear (this is the reason for the mirror). Do not take a deep breath and do not exhale deeply--just normal breathing will do it. You may hold your breath for a few seconds while measuring. Relax your position and do this three times. All of the slack should be out of the tape, but it should not be pulled so tight as to indent the skin. Take the best measurement--one that is the same as at least one other measurement. Or, failing a reproduced number, take the middle number. Under no circumstances are we to use a pit to pit measurement in place of the chest measurement. A p2p measurement is only taken of the peacoat.

When I want a pit to pit measurement of the peacoat, I ask the seller to lay the coat face up on a flat surface, such as a bed. Stretch it tightly from side to side and pull the same amount of material evenly from the front and the back just below the armpits. Do not be concerned about any seams--disregard the seams. We want the amount of material stretched in the back to be the same as the amount stretched in the front. Then let the fabric relax and take the measurement. It should be a whole number and a fraction--such as 19.25 inches. Do not round off; we want the entire number. Try to be accurate to 1/4 of an inch. This pit to pit measurement tells us how the coat will fit in the chest, and if the stated chest size on the tag is accurate.

To find the actual size of a peacoat in the absence of a tag, or to check the accuracy of the tag, take the number as determined above. Disregard the fraction and multiply the whole number by 2. Then subtract 2 inches from the result. This (subtracting the 2 inches) will give the actual chest size of the garment, even though the measurement is taken from the outside. It does not give the interior measurement, but only the chest size of the peacoat.

As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23 inches across the chest--say 23 1/4 inches. Disregard the 1/4 inch and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2 inches, which gives a true size of 44. This method is helpful when there is no tag on the coat, or no chest size is stated on the tag. Keep in mind it doesn't give us an interior measurement of the coat, but only the accurate tag size of the coat, whether the original tag is present or not. In WWII models, the pit to pit number may be a whole number without a fraction as they were built a little more fitted than the post war coats.

It is best to use a cloth tape measure as this reduces the error inherent in taking measurements. Cloth tape measures are available online, at fabric stores and probably in the fabric section of stores such as Target and Walmart. You could use a piece of string and a yard stick, but that induces error in the measurements, and the string is stretchy--even more error. We need to be as accurate as possible in our measurements.

US Navy peacoats have become larger in relation to their stated tag size over the years. The WWII models fit the snuggest. Then the vintage models get a little larger. The vintage years are from 1945 through 1979. I have found that the 1979 coats are a bit larger than the coats from late 1940s. And the current issue coats have become a little more generous in sizing than the vintage coats. The current issue years are 1980 through the current production models.

 

[Dudley]

I think that was my fault. I didn't look at the label well enough and said it looked like a 49. I missed that it didn't have a contract number. Sorry. Is it possible that some 45s would also have eight buttons?

Thank you. I read the posts carefully.

 

[Kfz]

Please help me :
1) what year is this ?
2) is it Kersey wool or Melton wool?
Thanks

 

[Kfz]

Please help me :
1) what year is this ?
2) is it Kersey wool or Melton wool?
Thanks

It's blue w pewter buttons

 

[spotmark]

It blue w pewter buttons

It's a 1981. The two numbers after DLA100, in the contract number, tell you that. It's a Melton coat.

 

[trentstanton]

Please help me :
1) what year is this ?
2) is it Kersey wool or Melton wool?
Thanks

That is a 1981 overcoat. Melton wool.

 

[Peacoat]

It's blue w pewter buttons

Now that is odd–to see a blue shell with a 1981 date. I thought all of the current issue coats were black. Well, now we know there was a least one blue coat made with a 1981 contract.

 

[trentstanton]

Now that is odd–to see a blue shell with a 1981 date. I thought all of the current issue coats were black. Well, now we know there was a least one blue coat made with a 1981 contract.

Could just be my terrible eyes but it looks black to me. I've been looking at peacoats for months thanks to this group lol so I'd like to think I have my eye in.

 

[O'DubhGhaill]

Thanks for the chart, but I think the coat size/chest size can be disregarded for the vintage coats (pre 1980) as the current issue coats are sized larger. My sizing guide, based on years of experience, is to get a vintage coat of the same size as your chest size if you want room to layer a sweater. For a more fitted look with no room to layer, get a coat one size smaller than your chest size.

The first step in determining proper peacoat fit is to obtain your bare chest measurement. For an accurate chest measurement, stand in front of a mirror so that your side is facing the mirror. Take a cloth tape measure and measure at the widest part of your bare chest (or wearing just a tight T-shirt). Make sure the tape is level from front to rear (this is the reason for the mirror). Do not take a deep breath and do not exhale deeply--just normal breathing will do it. You may hold your breath for a few seconds while measuring. Relax your position and do this three times. All of the slack should be out of the tape, but it should not be pulled so tight as to indent the skin. Take the best measurement--one that is the same as at least one other measurement. Or, failing a reproduced number, take the middle number. Under no circumstances are we to use a pit to pit measurement in place of the chest measurement. A p2p measurement is only taken of the peacoat.

When I want a pit to pit measurement of the peacoat, I ask the seller to lay the coat face up on a flat surface, such as a bed. Stretch it tightly from side to side and pull the same amount of material evenly from the front and the back just below the armpits. Do not be concerned about any seams--disregard the seams. We want the amount of material stretched in the back to be the same as the amount stretched in the front. Then let the fabric relax and take the measurement. It should be a whole number and a fraction--such as 19.25 inches. Do not round off; we want the entire number. Try to be accurate to 1/4 of an inch. This pit to pit measurement tells us how the coat will fit in the chest, and if the stated chest size on the tag is accurate.

To find the actual size of a peacoat in the absence of a tag, or to check the accuracy of the tag, take the number as determined above. Disregard the fraction and multiply the whole number by 2. Then subtract 2 inches from the result. This (subtracting the 2 inches) will give the actual chest size of the garment, even though the measurement is taken from the outside. It does not give the interior measurement, but only the chest size of the peacoat.

As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23 inches across the chest--say 23 1/4 inches. Disregard the 1/4 inch and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2 inches, which gives a true size of 44. This method is helpful when there is no tag on the coat, or no chest size is stated on the tag. Keep in mind it doesn't give us an interior measurement of the coat, but only the accurate tag size of the coat, whether the original tag is present or not. In WWII models, the pit to pit number may be a whole number without a fraction as they were built a little more fitted than the post war coats.

It is best to use a cloth tape measure as this reduces the error inherent in taking measurements. Cloth tape measures are available online, at fabric stores and probably in the fabric section of stores such as Target and Walmart. You could use a piece of string and a yard stick, but that induces error in the measurements, and the string is stretchy--even more error. We need to be as accurate as possible in our measurements.

US Navy peacoats have become larger in relation to their stated tag size over the years. The WWII models fit the snuggest. Then the vintage models get a little larger. The vintage years are from 1945 through 1979. I have found that the 1979 coats are a bit larger than the coats from late 1940s. And the current issue coats have become a little more generous in sizing than the vintage coats. The current issue years are 1980 through the current production models.

110%! I have read this on your Peacoat Dating post and as always, you are spot on Sir. I neglected to add to my Sterlingwear post above that, as you thoroughly cover, their modern sizing is indeed larger than the WWIIs and the post-WWIIs. Sterlingwear sizing notes also that they expect layering by the wearer to occur, ergo the size recommendations. My WWII 38s fit trim, post WWII 38s, perfect, and modern 38s roomy enough (I am 5'9"; 150lbs.; 39" chest; 32" waist, with long arms). I have a couple size 40s that I wear over a suit or sport coat to work and they are roomy, but comfortable. Curiously, I have a 1962 36" that fits trim/perfectly with a button-up shirt, but probably would be a bit tight with anything more bulky.

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you. I read the posts carefully.

After kicking you around for confusing us, are we now going to have to absolve you of all guilt? Surely not. Surely there is some confusion in this thread you have caused? I don't have the energy to go back and read all of your posts to find out, nor do I wish to be confused all over again if you are, in fact, at fault.

So, if you are without blame, please accept our apologies. If not, then the kicking remains. Which ever it may be, thank you for your contributions to this, the most important thread in Outerwear. PC

 

[mihai]

US Navy peacoats have become larger in relation to their stated tag size over the years. The WWII models fit the snuggest. Then the vintage models get a little larger. The vintage years are from 1945 through 1979. I have found that the 1979 coats are a bit larger than the coats from late 1940s. And the current issue coats have become a little more generous in sizing than the vintage coats. The current issue years are 1980 through the current production models.

I can attest based on my USN pea coats that even the 60s(mid, late) ones feel def larger than the WW2 ones.