Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Webafile]

So I picked one of these to and wanted to give my comparison between the two jackets. I have had a Schott pea coat for the last few years and wear it when I go to work. (Live in Japan and walk 20 minutes from station to job) but I have been itching to pick up a vintage that is not a melton and was finally able to pick one up for a good price $50.

And finally here is a link to a short YouTube video comparing the 2.

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you for the review. Some comments:

1. On that particular tag the date will be the last number in the contract number. It will follow the letter "C." Looks as if the number in your coat might be a "61" which would be consistent with that style of tag. Please let us know if it looks like a "61" to you.

2. When sewing buttons on, use a small backing button on the inside. Careful not to sew through the interior pockets. Nylon thread or thread with high nylon content will be stronger and last longer than cotton thread. Black thread is proper with peacoats as one matches the thread to the color of the button and not the color of the coat.

3. As you noted, the vintage coat has a smoother and denser fabric (Kersey) than the Melton of the Schott. I think you will find it to be warmer than the Schott. Adding to the warmth is the fact that the Kersey shell is windproof. The Melton is not. In its advertising, Schott says its coats are built to WWII specs. They aren't. Kersey was spec for the WWII coats.

4. If you are concerned about warmth, a sweater worn under the coat exponentially increases its warmth. One of the design flaws of the peacoat is the amount of transfer of air at the cuffs and the hem. A sweater cuts down on the air transfer inside the peacoat which adds to its warmth. Also, a scarf keeps the neck and the chest warm in really cold weather.

Congratulations on a good purchase.

 

[Gav]

I just bought a peacoat which I think is a late 40's or 50's one based on the label picture (below). It is a size 46 though which may well be too big for me according to @Peacoat 's very useful advice which I promptly forgot... Oops, I got a bit excited after finding a size 46 which I gather is fairly rare and forgot I should have been looking for a size 44.
When this arrives I will post more pictures and possibly a sale thread if it is too big.

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, that is a 1949 coat. That year had the nicest finish of any of the years. That is a good find. Hope it fits you, but if your chest measures 44" then it likely will be too large.

 

[Gav]

Thanks for that! I’ll update when it comes.

 

[Albe64]

I have an officer peacoat (silver buttons and slightly longer) but I cannot trace back the date...I bought it from a vintage collector in the '80s...I will post some photos tomorrow, maybe someone here could help me in getting more details.
By the way, I have a leather peacoat (U-Boat jacket), a repro, here on sale in the Classifieds, if someone is interested..

 

[Peacoat]

I have an officer peacoat (silver buttons and slightly longer) but I cannot trace back the date...I bought it from a vintage collector in the '80s...I will post some photos tomorrow, maybe someone here could help me in getting more details.
By the way, I have a leather peacoat (U-Boat jacket), a repro, here on sale in the Classifieds, if someone is interested..

Officers' peacoats are known as reefers. The only differences are the gold buttons and the straps on the shoulders for the rank boards. Chiefs are authorized to wear the same coat, but without the shoulder boards. However, I imagine it has been many years since an officer or chief has worn a peacoat. Both are authorized to wear the bridge coat, and all do so.

The first thing a petty officer does after being promoted to chief is to sell his peacoat and buy a bridge coat. When an officer is commissioned, he buys a bridge coat rather than a peacoat.

A bridge coat is longer, but the wool shell is thinner. To compensate for the thinner material, a removable liner comes with the coat.

When you get the coat, post pics of the front of the coat and the tag. I can date it within a year or so with that information.

 

[O'DubhGhaill]

I have an officer peacoat (silver buttons and slightly longer) but I cannot trace back the date...I bought it from a vintage collector in the '80s...I will post some photos tomorrow, maybe someone here could help me in getting more details.
By the way, I have a leather peacoat (U-Boat jacket), a repro, here on sale in the Classifieds, if someone is interested..

Perhaps Zumwalt buttons, making it an enlisted sailor's coat from the 70s-early 80s? I cannot seem to find your listed coat in Classifieds. I'll try a different search.

 

[Albe64]

Perhaps Zumwalt buttons, making it an enlisted sailor's coat from the 70s-early 80s? I cannot seem to find your listed coat in Classifieds. I'll try a different search.

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear enough. The leather peacoat I am selling in Classified is not this one we are talking about BUT a leather version (U-BOAT jacket)..If you search for U-Boat jacket you'd be able to find it. Otherwise send me a message ok?

 

[Albe64]

Officers' peacoats are known as reefers. The only differences are the gold buttons and the straps on the shoulders for the rank boards. Chiefs are authorized to wear the same coat, but without the shoulder boards. However, I imagine it has been many years since an officer or chief has worn a peacoat. Both are authorized to wear the bridge coat, and all do so.

The first thing a petty officer does after being promoted to chief is to sell his peacoat and buy a bridge coat. When an officer is commissioned, he buys a bridge coat rather than a peacoat.

A bridge coat is longer, but the wool shell is thinner. To compensate for the thinner material, a removable liner comes with the coat.

When you get the coat, post pics of the front of the coat and the tag. I can date it within a year or so with that information.

Hi, I was finally able to get some photos and I am curious about your feedback. Thank you!

 

[Peacoat]

The wording on the tag looks as though it is completely worn off. No way to give an accurate date without that information. Please give me a close up (not magnified) shot of the end of the sleeve, getting about 10" above the cuff in the pic. I would like to see the stitching on the end of the sleeve. That might give me a broad idea of the date.

One other thing you can do is to look at the buttons to see if they might have been replaced. Look at the back to see what you can determine. Also might be helpful to get a picture or two of the back of the buttons. If original, then I can give a fairly broad date. Also a pic of the inside of the pocket might be helpful.

When I saw the magnified picture of the button showing the shell, I initially thought it might be Melton because of the coarseness of the weave. I got a 10 x jewelers loupe and looked at a few of my Kersey shell jackets. About the same presentation, so that is probably Kersey. If it has a smooth surface and not a nappy surface, it is Kersey.

 

[Webafile]

Thank you for the review. Some comments:

1. On that particular tag the date will be the last number in the contract number. It will follow the letter "C." Looks as if the number in your coat might be a "61" which would be consistent with that style of tag. Please let us know if it looks like a "61" to you.


Can't see it well at all and it is to old and can't tell the date or numbers.

2. When sewing buttons on, use a small backing button on the inside. Careful not to sew through the interior pockets. Nylon thread or thread with high nylon content will be stronger and last longer than cotton thread. Black thread is proper with peacoats as one matches the thread to the color of the button and not the color of the coat.

I used some tiger thread that I use for leather work and turn out awesome I think and will last for a long time. Also added buttons to the back just don't like the fact that there is a button inside of the front pockets.

3. As you noted, the vintage coat has a smoother and denser fabric (Kersey) than the Melton of the Schott. I think you will find it to be warmer than the Schott. Adding to the warmth is the fact that the Kersey shell is windproof. The Melton is not. In its advertising, Schott says its coats are built to WWII specs. They aren't. Kersey was spec for the WWII coats.

Yes I forgot what it was called but Kersey is the wool that I was looking for and was happy to find this jacket. The sleeves are a little short but that is just my long arm problem so I will just wear gloves while walking.

4. If you are concerned about warmth, a sweater worn under the coat exponentially increases its warmth. One of the design flaws of the peacoat is the amount of transfer of air at the cuffs and the hem. A sweater cuts down on the air transfer inside the peacoat which adds to its warmth. Also, a scarf keeps the neck and the chest warm in really cold weather.

So far it's been really warm when I have been walking but it only get down to about 32f (0c) in my area so I have not had any problems.
Congratulations on a good purchase.

I have bolded your comments so they will stand out. You made your comments inside the quote box. Never works well that way.

There may be additional material inside the cuff that a seamstress could use to lengthen the sleeves.

 

[Peacoat]

I have bolded your comments so they will stand out. You made your comments inside the quote box. Never works well that way.

There may be additional material inside the cuff that a seamstress could use to lengthen the sleeves.

Just now noticed your comments about the tag and the date on the tag: "Can't see it well at all and it is too old and can't tell the date or numbers."

The last number is clearly the numeral "1." The number behind that appears to be the numeral "6," but difficult to tell. But we really don't need to know that number because with the style of the tag, there is only one number it could be and that is the numeral "6." That tag came into production in about 1956 and lasted until 1965. The only year during that time with the numeral "6" preceding a "1" was 1961. You have a 1961 coat. BTW, that tag style is my favorite.

 

[Albe64]

The wording on the tag looks as though it is completely worn off. No way to give an accurate date without that information. Please give me a close up (not magnified) shot of the end of the sleeve, getting about 10" above the cuff in the pic. I would like to see the stitching on the end of the sleeve. That might give me a broad idea of the date.

One other thing you can do is to look at the buttons to see if they might have been replaced. Look at the back to see what you can determine. Also might be helpful to get a picture or two of the back of the buttons. If original, then I can give a fairly broad date. Also a pic of the inside of the pocket might be helpful.

When I saw the magnified picture of the button showing the shell, I initially thought it might be Melton because of the coarseness of the weave. I got a 10 x jewelers loupe and looked at a few of my Kersey shell jackets. About the same presentation, so that is probably Kersey. If it has a smooth surface and not a nappy surface, it is Kersey.

Hi, sorry for keeping you waiting...here are the photos of the sleeve and button (back). Are they clear enough?

 

[Peacoat]

I meant the backside of the stitching where the button is sewn inside the coat. Sorry I wasn't clear. Just look and see if the threads have been replaced. If not, it would be between 1974 and 1979. That button was professionally installed or else it was done by someone who knew what he was doing.

With no stitching at or just above the cuff, I can't date it that way. I wonder if the sleeves have been altered at the cuff?

One last thing is the lining in the hand warmer pockets. Is the lining corduroy (tan, green or black) or is it a simple cotton lining (white, off white or blueish white)?

When dating these coats with no tag, or an indecipherable tag, I have a flow chart in my head that I run through. It's easier if I see the coat in person, but that usually just isn't possible.

 

[O'DubhGhaill]

There may be additional material inside the cuff that a seamstress could use to lengthen the sleeves.

Webafile, I suffer the long-arm condition as well and have the sleeves of any vintage peacoat I acquire lengthened by my seamstress. I instruct her to lower them one inch, which almost always leaves one inch remaining tucked up in the cuff. Navy regs for the peacoat state, "sleeves are to reach about three-quarters of distance from the wrist to the knuckles when arms hang naturally at the sides." See Uniform Components, Article 3501.41 https://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-...iformregulations/Documents/SOC_2020_06_02.pdf. Page 20 of 23. (This is as of 02 June 2020 changes.) Contra to so many "celebrity men's wear stylist" fashion advice for the peacoat. The only peacoat I did not need to lower the sleeves was on a mid-80s coat in size 40L - I am a size 39-5" - 40" chest. The fit is roomy and long enough that I can wear the coat over a blazer or suit jacket.

 

[Albe64]

I meant the backside of the stitching where the button is sewn inside the coat. Sorry I wasn't clear. Just look and see if the threads have been replaced. If not, it would be between 1974 and 1979. That button was professionally installed or else it was done by someone who knew what he was doing.

With no stitching at or just above the cuff, I can't date it that way. I wonder if the sleeves have been altered at the cuff?

One last thing is the lining in the hand warmer pockets. Is the lining corduroy (tan, green or black) or is it a simple cotton lining (white, off white or blueish white)?

When dating these coats with no tag, or an indecipherable tag, I have a flow chart in my head that I run through. It's easier if I see the coat in person, but that usually just isn't possible.

Hi and thank you! In the hand warmer pockets the lining is white cotton

 

[Peacoat]

Hi and thank you! In the hand warmer pockets the lining is white cotton

With the white cotton lining in the pockets, that means if the buttons are original to the coat, then the contract on this coat was let between 1968 and and 1979. If the buttons have been replaced, the contract date is 1968 to 1973, or perhaps early 1974. The originality of the buttons, or the lack thereof, will now determine the date range of this particular coat.

 

[Albe64]

With the white cotton lining in the pockets, that means if the buttons are original to the coat, then the contract on this coat was let between 1968 and and 1979. If the buttons have been replaced, the contract date is 1968 to 1973, or perhaps early 1974. The originality of the buttons, or the lack thereof, will now determine the date range of this particular coat.

Wow! I am amazed...Thank you!

 

[Michael Lai]

Hello I just purchased this pea coat on ebay. Trying to see what year it is. This is the only tag on the coat(inside pocket) the hand pocket is white inside. Ill put the link for the coat I got. Thanks!
https://m.ebay.com/itm/US-Navy-Pea-...ner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true#vi__app-cvip-panel