Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

David is correct about the stripe at the edge of the cuff if you have it lengthened, but I think that is a minor problem if the coat fits well overall. I had the sleeves of my original size 40 peacoat lengthened, and the strip is not very noticeable. Better to have a coat that has sleeves long enough to wear it comfortably than to not. You will already need to get a size larger peacoat to accommodate a sweater in your frozen northland winters. I would say lengthen the sleeves, if possible, and then get another for wear with a sweater underneath.

 

[the cappuccino kid]

Thanks for your help.
I missed a size 40" pea coat on ebay auction a couple of days ago. I´m looking for a coat with the measurements 22" pit to pit and 25" shoulder to cuff. It seems that i´m between sz40 and 42.
Corderoy lined pockets would be nice but Kersey wool is a must I think. The newly listed section is scanned on a daily basis. $45 sound like a bargain!

Best whishes

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks for your help.
I missed a size 40" pea coat on ebay auction a couple of days ago. I´m looking for a coat with the measurements 22" pit to pit and 25" shoulder to cuff. It seems that i´m between sz40 and 42.
Corderoy lined pockets would be nice but Kersey wool is a must I think. The newly listed section is scanned on a daily basis. $45 sound like a bargain!

Best whishes

Think in terms of your actual chest measurement rather than the stated size of the coat. If your chest actually measures 41" then a peacoat that measures 22+ in the p2p (probably a size 42 peacoat) will give you room to wear a heavy sweater underneath. It will give too loose a fit without the sweater, but then you already have one for wear without a sweater.

When measuring the sleeve length, take the measurement along the outside curve of the sleeve from the shoulder seam down to the cuff. Ask the seller to measure this way as well. This is a more difficult measurement than the p2p.

Most of the vintage coats (pre 1980) in size 42 will measure right at 22.25". But as fellow Lounger Cooperson found out, the stated size is not always accurate. The current issue coats in a size 42 might measure 22.50".

Good hunting.

 

[Peacoat]

This picture shows the correct way to measure sleeve length.

 

[David Minton]

Thanks for your help.
...
The newly listed section is scanned on a daily basis. $45 sound like a bargain!

Best whishes

You just have to be patient, though prices are probably highest in the winter. I bought my last coat in October (destined to be gifted); a late 1950s-early 1960s size 42 in nice (though not great) condition for under $40 with shipping. Deals are out there. I wear a size 38 myself, so deals are easier to find in my size.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Thanks for your help.
I missed a size 40" pea coat on ebay auction a couple of days ago. I´m looking for a coat with the measurements 22" pit to pit and 25" shoulder to cuff. It seems that i´m between sz40 and 42.
Corderoy lined pockets would be nice but Kersey wool is a must I think. The newly listed section is scanned on a daily basis. $45 sound like a bargain!

Best whishes

There are usually many more size 40s on ebay then 42s. $45.00 for a vintage dark blue Kersey coat from the '50s or '60s would be a bargain. I think you would have to wait a little while before you would find one though, and especially one in very good to excellent shape. The prices for these coats have been going up in the past 2 or 3 years and probably will continue to do so. You will however find the largest selection on ebay at this time of the year. Size 40 is one of the most common sizes. When moving up to a size 42, the number of available coats decreases quite a bit for Kersey coats. The newer, modern day black Melton coats are much more available in most sizes. Although the Kerseys are the "kings" and the way to go.

 

[Peacoat]

The newer, modern day black Melton coats are much more available in most sizes. Although the Kerseys are the "kings" and the way to go.

+1

 

[loraxian]

I have a quick question regarding the possible fading of the color of the fabric.

I currently own a 1983 peacoat in nice condition but the notion that the old fabrics are more wind resistant has me searching for an older one. I'm eyeing an auction right now for a 1977 coat that has a shoulder patch, seen here.

If I buy it I'd like to get the patch removed. Not only is it not my style but wearing decorations would feel too much like stolen valor to me (I know it technically isn't but it still feels tacky).

My concern: Once removed, would one be able to tell there was a patch there? Some fabrics would show wear but I don't know if wool does.

And Peacoat, I'd like to thank you for how much you've already helped me. Reading through your posts has been very beneficial.

 

[Peacoat]

I think you would be able to remove the rating without any residuals. I have done it before without a problem.

 

[realchemist]

I bought a '66 peacoat in mint condition a few weeks ago. I had the sides tapered slightly and the sleeves shortened. The shoulders fit great with the seam landing right on my shoulder bone. I think I have a problem with the sleeves though. When my arms are at my side, the sleeves hit halfway between my thumb knuckle and wrist, but they ride up too far anytime I lift my arms. While standing with my arms out in front of me, 3-4" of wrist are exposed and when I drive the sleeves are halfway to my elbow.

Is this an issue with the cut (armholes, sleeve width, etc)? My tailor also said to get it dry cleaned a second time to make the fabric more pliable. Not sure what to do.

I tried my best to search for similar issues but came up empty handed.

 

[Moffit]

Hey all!
New to the lounge. I recently purchased a WWII US Navy peacoat at a vintage shop here in Toronto. The thing is practically brand new!!
Just had a quick question about the stencil inside. The mans name was W.Youngman and the stencil reads "YOUNGMAN.WH-785" Anyone know what the WH-785 means?

Once i figure out how to attach an image I'll post some pics! lol

 

[Moffit]

 

[Moffit]

 

[EmergencyIan]

^ I really have no idea, but could it be his first and middle initial along with the last three of his serial number? I'm sure someone will know for sure.

And, welcome to The Fedora Lounge!


- Ian

 

[Moffit]

Cool! That sounds pretty good to me.

Thanks!!

 

[Peacoat]

Good guess, Ian.

I think the "WH" is, as Ian said, his first and middle initial. the "785" could be the last three of his service number, but I have never seen it expressed as such. Usually, in that era, the entire service number was stenciled in the jacket. I think it might be something related to his training class. Perhaps the number of his class at the Great Lakes or in San Diego? If, in fact, however, that is a class number, I would expect to see some letters preceding the 785. That has normally been the Navy way.

Having been some 70 years now, I doubt you will ever get a definitive answer to your question. It doesn't follow any patterns I am familiar with. Most of the actors from back then are now dead. The ones still alive will have no idea about the arcane nature of the question.

The coat is a real find. If you got it for less than $250 I would be surprised. A coat in excellent condition of that era should go for between $250--$500, perhaps more.

And, as Ian said, welcome to the Lounge. PC.

 

[Peacoat]

OK, after thinking about this and going back and looking at the pictures on the preceding page more carefully, I am going to revise my answer.

Navy service numbers (enlisted) of that era were given as, for example: 434 27 85. Army service numbers (enlisted) were given as, for example: RA 26357391.

In the Army, all enlisted personal belongings were marked with the soldiers last name, first initial and the last four of the service number. In the above example it would be, Smith, J 7391.

I discounted the idea that 785 would be the last three of the service number as it would be logical to include the last four and not just the last three of the number. But that assumes the Navy was a logical institution back then. May not be very logical in wartime, or there may have been a very good reason for including three of the numbers and not the last four.

So, I agree with Ian's answer.

 

[Moffit]

Thanks guys! The search continues. Im sure I will never really know but its fun trying to find out!

I am really loving this coat! Other than a few teared stitches in the liner armpit and neck the jacket is in near deadstock condition.

Also I got this jacket for WWII prices. lol I don't think the store knew what they had!!

 

[Pirendeus]

I just recently purchased a peacoat and came across this thread. The tag is actually a lot like the "counterfeit" tag posted earlier

. Does anyone know why this was identified as a counterfeit coat? The tag on mine follows the same formatting as the image above, and it has 2X5 buttons (1 row hidden), lower exterior pockets, no interior pockets, and the fabric has a softer hand than my other 1958 kersey wool pea coat. This was actually my first indication that something might be wrong, assuming that any coat made with melton instead of kersey wool would be new enough to have tag that identified the production year. Plus, the coat is in very nice condition for a coat that would need to be older than the 1980's, unless I'm misidentifying melton wool.
Is there anything other than these anomolies that would indicate that the coat is fake? I bought it on ebay, so I can ask for a refund or file a claim if there is good evidence of forgery.

 

[David Minton]

I just recently purchased a peacoat and came across this thread. The tag is actually a lot like the "counterfeit" tag posted earlier

. Does anyone know why this was identified as a counterfeit coat? The tag on mine follows the same formatting as the image above, and it has 2X5 buttons (1 row hidden), lower exterior pockets, no interior pockets, and the fabric has a softer hand than my other 1958 kersey wool pea coat. This was actually my first indication that something might be wrong, assuming that any coat made with melton instead of kersey wool would be new enough to have tag that identified the production year. Plus, the coat is in very nice condition for a coat that would need to be older than the 1980's, unless I'm misidentifying melton wool.
Is there anything other than these anomolies that would indicate that the coat is fake? I bought it on ebay, so I can ask for a refund or file a claim if there is good evidence of forgery.

This is sort of like asking Mrs. Lincoln if, aside from the death of her husband, did she enjoy the play."

Even without the label, I would say your coat is a reproduction. All US Navy pea coats I have encountered, including the four ten button coats I have owned have had two interior pockets. Also, ten button coats stopped being made around the end of WWII, so the coat would need to be around 70 years old to be authentic. That being the case, you can still find examples in mint condition (I have one), though they will be made of heavy and stiff Kersey wool.

The label, however, is the strongest indicator, as the US Navy has never, to my knowledge, used such a format. I bet if you looked up the contract number in a federal database, it would not be the correct syntax.

The coat may be worth what you paid for it, if you didn't pay much, but from all I know about pea coats (I currently own around 15), it is not an example of an authentic US Navy coat.