Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Doctor Damage]

Nice job, Will. They look good. Bottom button on the left on the size 38 may need to be moved up an inch.

I was going to say that too. It looks like that button was pulled off at some point and reattached in the wrong spot.

I think sleeve length is just right, judging by old photos and the official description which I posted a few pages back.

As for the door, you can always do what they do in the UK on old buildings and put a couple more dozen layers of paint in it instead!

 

[wquiles]

Thank you guys. I have not noticed, but when you guys pointed it out, yes, that button has been "relocated" at some point back, as the thread used does not match the other buttons. Overall, not bad for a good, warm coat that is 65 years old

 

[Doctor Damage]

date = 1984?

 

[EmergencyIan]

date = 1984?

Yes, 1984...for certain.

- Ian

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ thanks!

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Here's another set of tags to add to Peacoat's collection. From the same coat, presumably one of the Sterlingwear coats for the civilian market?

 

[Doctor Damage]

Apparently the Commissioned Corps of the U.S. Public Health Service wears reefers and you can read about it here: http://dcp.psc.gov/ccbulletin/articles/Uniforms_11_2013.aspx

 

[Doctor Damage]

More info about the USCG pea coats (which call a reefer): http://files.meetup.com/1737117/Uniforms-part2.pdf

Here's a long article(s) about the evolution of USN uniforms: http://www.history.navy.mil/library/online/uniform_historical.htm

 

[Doctor Damage]

And here is a second report to bring you up to date with the current specification. You can see from these 2 reports why the old coats feel so much more substantial.

Accession Number : ADA243702
Title : Improved Manufacturing Methods for Navy Peacoats.

Descriptive Note : Final rept. Aug 89-Sep 91,

Corporate Author : EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRIES NEW YORK
Personal Author(s) : Korngruen, Josef

Report Date : 30 SEP 1991

Pagination or Media Count : 43

Abstract : Analyses of components, patterns, and manufacturing methods of men's and women's peacoats (U.S. Navy) were conducted in order to improve procurement and utility of the garments. Recommendations are made to combine men's and women's coats in a unisex program; reduce size tariffs by 28%; improve the wear life and insulation (warmth) characteristics while reducing the average garment weight by 14%; and lower component materials cost by 12%. Revised and improved patterns were developed, and recommended manufacturing procedures employing three graduated levels of mechanization/automation are provided. Total annual savings based on historial procurement levels, are estimated to exceed $350,000.

Descriptors : AUTOMATION, CLOTHING, LOW COSTS, MANUFACTURING, MATERIALS, MECHANIZATION, METHODOLOGY, PROCUREMENT, SAVINGS.

Subject Categories : LOGISTICS, MILITARY FACILITIES AND SUPPLIES
MFG & INDUSTRIAL ENG & CONTROL OF PRODUCT SYS

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE

Robert Bennett

If you do a search on google you come up with this report and can download it (3 MB).
https://www.google.ca/#q=dtic.mil+ADA243702

It's actually full of interesting discussion about various aspects of the pea coats and I recommend it as reading to anyone who's really keen.

 

[Peacoat]

^ thanks!

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Here's another set of tags to add to Peacoat's collection. From the same coat, presumably one of the Sterlingwear coats for the civilian market?

[/QUOTEs


Actually, I believe this is a current issue coat from 2002. The white tag is indicative of an issue tag. This tag is probably located inside one of the pockets. DSCP stands for Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, which is the quartermaster depot. This is probably the collar tag. I believe this was the tag on one of my current issue pea coats from several years ago. Even though the language "Quarterdeck Collection" looks a bit civilian, I believe these tags are from a 2002 current issue US Navy peacoat.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Further to that government document about peacoats, here's some interesting tables.

1. Demand for men's peacoats 1987-1990.



2. Men's peacoat sizing, which shows that they do things differently than with civilian clothing. I had originally thought that Sterlingwear's size chart was lazy b.s. but I guess not. I still won't apologize to them, since they it's useless for civilians. Peacoat, note at the bottom of the table an explanation of how they measure chest size.



And if you download the full report, at page 38 they start talking about how to assemble peacoats, including patterns/diagrams.

 

[Peacoat]

Men's peacoat sizing, which shows that they do things differently than with civilian clothing. I had originally thought that Sterlingwear's size chart was lazy b.s. but I guess not. I still won't apologize to them, since they it's useless for civilians. Peacoat, note at the bottom of the table an explanation of how they measure chest size

Very odd.

 

[wquiles]

Nice job, Will. They look good. Bottom button on the left on the size 38 may need to be moved up an inch.

Finally got around to fixing the button. There were a couple of them that were loose, so I redid those at the same time. Not perfect, but now my size 38 1949 Peacoat looks half decent again:

 

[Peacoat]

Good show. It looks the business (as our English friends would say).

If you want to shorten the sleeves, it is a fairly simple procedure.

 

[Doctor Damage]

USCG coat, made of wool instead of the blend. I just bought this actually. Doesn't seem to match the other styles, so perhaps it's a sample or something for a production run that never happened. Anyway it should be slightly more interesting than wearing the usual black pea coat!

 

[Peacoat]

Interesting. Looks as though the CG has moved away from using the same contractors as the Navy.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Peacoat, note at the bottom of the table an explanation of how they measure chest size.

Very odd.

When you have a few minutes could you measure a couple of your coats like they say? Then compare with the pit-to-pit measurement? I don't have one right now so I can't. It would be interesting to see what, if any, difference it means in terms of chest measurement; I suspect the USN measurement gives a larger number, in which case their size chart requires a different mindset when using.

 

[Peacoat]

When you have a few minutes could you measure a couple of your coats like they say? Then compare with the pit-to-pit measurement? I don't have one right now so I can't. It would be interesting to see what, if any, difference it means in terms of chest measurement; I suspect the USN measurement gives a larger number, in which case their size chart requires a different mindset when using.

Using that method, my size 40 peacoat comes out to a size 50 (25" x 2). The instructions are somewhat vague as to what is the "left front edge." I measured from the left front edge of the jacket, just beyond the buttons around to the center seam in the rear.

 

[SecondState]

Date bridgecoat

Hi everyone, I bought a bridgecoat but can't tell if it is genuine as it says on the label it's from 1962 but the label doesn't look right to me. One label says 'U.S.Navy, Naval Uniform Shop, Brooklyn, N.Y'. It's a black label with yellow writting and an anchor. White label inside pocket says Naval Uniform Shop then all the details.
I'm trying to add photos but it doesn't seem to be giving me the option.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Using that method, my size 40 peacoat comes out to a size 50 (25" x 2). The instructions are somewhat vague as to what is the "left front edge." I measured from the left front edge of the jacket, just beyond the buttons around to the center seam in the rear.

Well, according to the USN size chart, which, if I'm reading it correctly (and that's a big "if"), indicates a 50 chest measurement is a 38 size, not too far off from a 40 size. But that makes no sense either. There's some weird alchemy going on there!

Hi everyone, I bought a bridgecoat but can't tell if it is genuine as it says on the label it's from 1962 but the label doesn't look right to me. One label says 'U.S.Navy, Naval Uniform Shop, Brooklyn, N.Y'. It's a black label with yellow writting and an anchor. White label inside pocket says Naval Uniform Shop then all the details.

We now have a dedicated thread about bridge coats:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...-Guide-to-The-U-S-Navy-Bridge-Coat&highlight=
I suggest you take a look at the tags there and see if what you have matches.

 

[Will015]

What's the consensus on lengthening the sleeves on an already kinda tattered WWII peacoat (kinda torn up and reinforced buttonholes and lining/matted worn nap to the wool). It's not a pristine example and I wouldn't really have any moral reservations about altering it. Any guess on how much length I could get out of the sleeves? I'd rather not try to find a long size because I have a rather short torso and long arms. I'd be happy with an inch or so. Does that seem unrealistic?