Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[CC-1]

Hey John,
What repairs did you have to have done to your peacoat?[/QUOTE

1966 NOS coat with cutter's tags still in pocket
Lining was crumpled even after dry clean and press, a manufacuring error?
Sleeves needed shortening
Sleeves were one wide width from shoulder to cuff- my wrists would bang against the cuffs with my arm swing

I asked her to replace or redo the lining. She must have ripped it out and reinstalled it- all better.
She shortened and slightly curved the sleeve(s) so it was "anatomically" correct, the way it "should be", said she.
The results are imperceptible. The whole deal cost about $80.00
Her name is Marcia Cohen, 1107 Genesee St., Syracuse , NY 13210 (315) 478-1700 (disclaimer: no relation)
She is a member of PACC http://www.paccprofessionals.org/ check it out! especially the 'specialty' tab
-john

 

[scotrace]

Merged threads.

 

[John_Dear]

On a recent vintage store visit, I saw what looked to be a vintage Navy Pea coat (tan cord pockets, stenciled name on lining, no label) but it had a detachable throat tab on the collar. I looked through the "Peacoat Dating" thread but didn't see any mention of these. Were throat tabs common, but mostly lost or discarded over the years? The wool on the tab matched the coat, so I'm guessing it is original.

 

[nathanl]

On a recent vintage store visit, I saw what looked to be a vintage Navy Pea coat (tan cord pockets, stenciled name on lining, no label) but it had a detachable throat tab on the collar. I looked through the "Peacoat Dating" thread but didn't see any mention of these. Were throat tabs common, but mostly lost or discarded over the years? The wool on the tab matched the coat, so I'm guessing it is original.

That should date it to WWII or earlier, since the post-war revamp of the peacoat didn't keep the throat latch (not even the small buttons to hold it in place). Does it have 10 (8 showing) or 8 (6 showing) buttons? Assuming 10 with 8 showing, that would make it WWII or earlier for sure.

This is all based on Peacoat's dating thread and the various others.

 

[Peacoat]

Good job Nathanl, and welcome to the Lounge. Those were the same questions I would have asked. You guys are coming along.

 

[HighandDry]

Just received my peacoat from Vintagetreads. The first one I got had a rip on the bottom hem and a hole in the seam between the arm and the body. I sent it back and emailed Gary to look at a specific coat on their site. He inspected it personally and it was in near mint condition- 1968 Kersey by Dale. So if you do order from Vintagetreads, email Gary with the coat you're looking at and have him inspect it (the first one I got was listed in Excellent condition).

Thanks to Peacoat's write up and Jan, who was nice enough to give me sizing advice. I'm a 40 in a suit, 40 chest/32 waist and the 38 is perfect. Easy enough to fit a sweater underneath. Glad I went the vintage route rather than buy the Schott or Brooks Brothers I was looking at

 

[John_Dear]

Thanks for the info everyone. I thought there were only 8 buttons/six showing, so that's what had me confused. I'll need to have a closer look if it's still there next time I visit. In any case, I doesn't fit me, so I was going to try to flip it. Based on what I'm seeing on eBay completed auctions, the $50 this shop is asking might be all it's worth.

I recently picked up a sweet Kersey wool vintage Navy Pea for my daily wear, and I used Peacoat's guide to figure out the age since mine is missing a tag. (It only buttons from one side but does have the double row stitching on sleeve... gotta be '66) Thanks again to Peacoat for the diligent research and great advice.

 

[John_Dear]

Speaking of eBay...

I think it's funny that probably 90%+ of the listings for "Vintage genuine WW2 Issue Navy Pea Coat" are easily identifiable as NOT WW2. I wouldn't have known until I found Peacoat's guide, but now it's almost a sport for me to spot the Bulls***.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks to Peacoat's write up and Jan, who was nice enough to give me sizing advice. I'm a 40 in a suit, 40 chest/32 waist and the 38 is perfect. Easy enough to fit a sweater underneath. Glad I went the vintage route rather than buy the Schott or Brooks Brothers I was looking at

The variation in sizes within a stated tag size is why I recommend obtaining the p2p from the seller, and then compare that to what a peacoat of a stated tag size should measure. For example, I have a 42" chest, and my size 42 peacoats are all of the standard size. They all give me a good fit with enough room for a sweater. My size 40 peacoat (also of standard measurement) is a good fit, but doesn't allow enough room for me to comfortably wear a sweater.

Standard measurement for a tag size 42 peacoat, P2P is 22.25"--22.50"

For a tag size 40 peacoat the standard measurement is 21.25"--21.50"

 

[Peacoat]

Speaking of eBay...

I think it's funny that probably 90%+ of the listings for "Vintage genuine WW2 Issue Navy Pea Coat" are easily identifiable as NOT WW2. I wouldn't have known until I found Peacoat's guide, but now it's almost a sport for me to spot the Bulls***.

Yep.

 

[nathanl]

Good job Nathanl, and welcome to the Lounge. Those were the same questions I would have asked. You guys are coming along.

Thanks! After reading over everything you've posted, I picked up what turned out to be a just about PERFECT WWII from eBay (an actual one - I'm spotting the incorrect listings now too) and it's amazing. So much so that I had to get a second one (on it's way, hopefully as perfect as described) just in case anything ever happens to one. So it's really all your fault!

 

[Peacoat]

Don't think of it as being anyone's fault, but more like a type of insurance. Everyone needs a spare of a good peacoat. Now, when you start getting spares of all the different tag styles, that is when a problem is beginning to develop. I had a spare WWII peacoat, but gave it away; guess its time I started looking for another one before they get too expensive. Never want to be caught with only one WWII coat; something may happened to it.

 

[EmergencyIan]

I've got a unissued (it had cutter tags attached in several places when I purchesed it) 1946-1947 U.S. Navy Pea Coat in mint/near mint condition that I would like to unload since it doesn't fit me any longer. The probolem is that it's a size 36. I don't know if anyone here would be able to fit into it. However, it's cut is slightly more generous than it's WWII counterpart.

- Ian

 

[clarinetplayer]

Today, the 1946 pea coat that I ordered from Vintage Trend arrived. I did not know what to expect. The coat is solid, in mint condition, and fits perfectly. (38R) If this coat is truly 66 years old, I am amazed. One anchor button is missing from under the lapel. No rips, tears, or marks. Looking at Peacoat's magnum opus, the label matches with the coats issued in the late 40s. The Kersey wool is everything that Peacoat and JanSolo have described. The pockets are made of tan corduroy.

 

[PaidInFull24]

Hey clarinetplayer,
What a great looking coat! But I think the coat is later than 1946 judging by the 8-button (6-showing) front and also the fouled anchors on the makers tag as well as the printed contract number on the tag. I'm no expert, but it looks to be post 1947 coat (maybe more like a 1949). Someone like Peacoat will definitely know more. Either way it is a GREAT looking coat and a good fit! Enjoy the warmth! They are SO warm!

 

[clarinetplayer]

Hey clarinetplayer,
What a great looking coat! But I think the coat is later than 1946 judging by the 8-button (6-showing) front and also the fouled anchors on the makers tag as well as the printed contract number on the tag. I'm no expert, but it looks to be post 1947 coat. Someone like Peacoat will definitely know more. Either way it is a GREAT looking coat and a good fit! Enjoy the warmth! They are SO warm!

I'm sure Peacoat will have the answer. Whatever year it is, I am in awe of the condition of this coat. It is functional and has a sleek look. It arrived just in time. Temps, in Michigan, are near zero every morning.

 

[PaidInFull24]

It is so fun to have something that old in that great of shape. It really is like wearing a piece of history. Really a neat thing.

 

[Peacoat]

A nice, really nice, 1949 coat. Congratulations. PaidInFull is developing quite the eye for detail; he will soon be giving our German brother a run for his money!

Please post your chest measurement, and the pit to pit of the coat so we will know what chest size the size 38 coat fits. I believe you told me your chest measured 39", but I help so many people with fit, I lose track of individual sizes. I would bet the pit to pit on that coat--properly measured--is 20.25 to 20.50. I am out of town and don't have access to my 1949 to measure it, but I believe that the late 40s and 50s pea coats were pretty close to standard measurements.

Cheers.

 

[clarinetplayer]

A nice, really nice, 1949 coat. Congratulations. PaidInFull is developing quite the eye for detail; he will soon be giving our German brother a run for his money!

Please post your chest measurement, and the pit to pit of the coat so we will know what chest size the size 38 coat fits. I believe you told me your chest measured 39", but I help so many people with fit, I lose track of individual sizes. I would bet the pit to pit on that coat--properly measured--is 20.25 to 20.50. I am out of town and don't have access to my 1949 to measure it, but I believe that the late 40s and 50s pea coats were pretty close to standard measurements.

Cheers.

My chest is 37.5 I tried to measure the front of the coat, laid out flat, what I thought was p2p, and came up with 19.25. Maybe, I did not do it correctly.

So, the coat is 62 years old. Absolutely remarkable. The condition of the wool, and really, everything is excellent. Thanks, Peacoat and PaidInFull!

 

[PaidInFull24]

Thank you for the compliment Peacoat. I learned so much from you when you were helping me to date my Korean War era officer's bridge coat. I greatly value your opinion of my knowledge (I should add though that all my knowledge came from YOU! Haha)

Regards,
Nick