Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Ja12n0]

Thank you Fedora Lounge! Just bought my first vintage peacoat using the great knowledge available on this forum. Hopefully it will fit me, it's a size 38 and I'm just between sizes (36-38).
The peacoat is NOS (New Old Stock) as no name or other info is written/stamped on it and it looks brand new. Comes with all the pewter coloured buttons and from the info on the label it's a coat from '78, so still a Kersey wool version. Hope to receive it in a couple of days and keeping my fingers crossed it's the correct size.

Some pics:

 

[Peacoat]

You did well. This coat was made by Viking Military, which was the branch of Viking Apparel (now Sterlingwear) that had the contract for military clothing in the year your coat was made. Sterlingwear has the current contract with the Navy for the manufacture of peacoats, and has held this contract for years.

If your chest measures 37" and if the p2p of this coat is 20.25" (which it should be) you will have a fit that allows for wearing a sweater with the coat. Now you need to be looking for a size 36 that will give you a trim fit without room for a sweater. The p2p on a size 36 will be about 19.25" to 19.50". With coats in both of these sizes, you will have more flexibility in different temperatures.

And, welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Ja12n0]

You did well. This coat was made by Viking Military, which was the branch of Viking Apparel (now Sterlingwear) that had the contract for military clothing in the year your coat was made. Sterlingwear has the current contract with the Navy for the manufacture of peacoats, and has held this contract for years.

If your chest measures 37" and if the p2p of this coat is 20.25" (which it should be) you will have a fit that allows for wearing a sweater with the coat. Now you need to be looking for a size 36 that will give you a trim fit without room for a sweater. The p2p on a size 36 will be about 19.25" to 19.50". With coats in both of these sizes, you will have more flexibility in different temperatures.

And, welcome to the Lounge.

Thank you. Yes, used your advice in first buying one that will fit me with some extra room. I think I need to alter the sleeve length a bit, and didn't want to do this with a jacket from the '40s or '50s as I like the double stitching so chose this 'newer' version. Maybe want to try to find a 10-button version as a next purchase, but those will be hard to find in good shape and in size 36.

 

[Peacoat]

Don't worry about losing the double stitching as your seamstress won't be that high up on the sleeve. Or if she/he does, the double stitching can be redone. Not a problem.

 

[Big J]

Worf, that Peacoat looks great on you!
I think I was looking at the same one on eBay which is why I read Peacoats excellent guide, but the kids just fleeced me for their school ski trip, and there's Valentines, birthdays, and my anniversary all at the same time, so I was really peeved that I had to pass on it.
It looks better on you than I reckon it would have on me.

 

[dioxide]

Just got my peacoat, might need to find a tailor to shave off 2" on the sleeves and 1" - 1 1/2" around the bottom. Anyone have a ballpark of the prices for a similar job? I'm seeing a wide range of prices from $30-$90 over here, so I'm wondering what price is reasonable for my needs. I'm in Canada, Ontario for reference.

 

[Peacoat]

About $40 for the sleeves and perhaps about the same for the hem. Please ask the tailor to save the excess material in the cuffs and the hem so that a "longer" individual who has the coat after you will be able to let it out again. I was faced with a similar situation with one of my peacoats--my first one actually--but the extra length in the sleeves had not been snipped off, but saved in the cuff.

 

[Ja12n0]

So received the coat yesterday. The 38 will work with a sportcoat underneat. Just fits a bit wide at the shoulders, can I expect a little drape with wearing it overtime?

Will buy a 36 if I can find a nice example.

 

[Worf]

Worf, that Peacoat looks great on you!
I think I was looking at the same one on eBay which is why I read Peacoats excellent guide, but the kids just fleeced me for their school ski trip, and there's Valentines, birthdays, and my anniversary all at the same time, so I was really peeved that I had to pass on it.
It looks better on you than I reckon it would have on me.

Well, consider it still kinda "in the family". Wore it out today in fact. Thanks for the love. And I am soooooo glad you're feeling better and back in da joint. As for it looking better on moi... don't know about that. You were on a helluva roll for a while there.

Worf

 

[Worf]

Be Army strong. Go Army, beat Navy! We finally did in the last game for the first time in 14 years. Even Roger Staubach said before the 2015 game that it was time for Army to win. Once Navy graduated that horrible quarterback who beat us each of his 4 years at Annapolis, we had a fighting chance.

Just saw this, I was outta town. Belize is definitely NOT jacket country... EVER. Thanks again to you and all the other fellow loungers that have helped me with this find. God I missed this place. Internet's a little spotty down there. The Army win was a great one!

Worf

 

[oristt1]

Hello all, I have been a long time reader of this site. I have been interested in getting a usn peacoat for some years now, I have used all of the knowledge an good info from FL. I have finally picked up a ww11 peacoat here in the U.K. In my size but unfortunately it's missing 3 of its bottons. Where would be the best place to find some and how can I tell if there ww11 era? Cheers

 

[Peacoat]

The buttons you need are readily available on eBay. The same style has been in use since 1936 or 1938, can't remember which, but the point is that is about the only style you will find. Just match to what is on your coat and you will be good to go. There were some in service that were Bakelite (you want the plastic ones) but they are rare.

 

[oristt1]

Hello Peacoat, first off can i thank you for taking the time in sharing your wealth of knowledge and for such a quick reply.

Ok that's good to know any of the plastic bottons will be the correct ones. very cool think there is some Bakelite ones out there.

Do you know if all 10 botton peacoats come with corded pockets?

Thanks again

 

[Peacoat]

My two WWII coats both had the cord pockets. I think that was in the contract for all of the WWII coats and continued to be the norm up until the mid 60s. I believe 1967 was the last year for corduroy.

 

[Gamma68]

Hi, everyone. I purchased my U.S. Navy peacoat a couple of years ago off eBay. At the time, I read through the dating guide posted here and determined it was from 1958.

Shortly after buying it, I had it dry cleaned, which made the interior label just about illegible. I should have written down exactly what it read before I had it cleaned.

Fortunately, I saved a photo from the auction that showed the label (below). Can anyone familiar with the contract numbers from the late 1950s period tell me what it reads? Perhaps there was a common contract number that appears to match the faint numbers in the photo below.

The interior stenciling reads "WILEY DH 588-76-98" I don't know if I can perform an online search to learn more about the enlistee.

If anyone has any further information to pass along, I'd appreciate it. I love learning more about the history behind specific garments.

 

[davyjones007]

I love seeing these old peacoats. So much so, I took my chevrons off my coat and started to wear it out this year. It is not my original issued one. That one somebody else wanted it my than me and so it goes. Why do I feel like I need a white heavy sweater underneath it???

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hi, everyone. I purchased my U.S. Navy peacoat a couple of years ago off eBay. At the time, I read through the dating guide posted here and determined it was from 1958.

Shortly after buying it, I had it dry cleaned, which made the interior label just about illegible. I should have written down exactly what it read before I had it cleaned.

Fortunately, I saved a photo from the auction that showed the label (below). Can anyone familiar with the contract numbers from the late 1950s period tell me what it reads? Perhaps there was a common contract number that appears to match the faint numbers in the photo below.

The interior stenciling reads "WILEY DH 588-76-98" I don't know if I can perform an online search to learn more about the enlistee.

If anyone has any further information to pass along, I'd appreciate it. I love learning more about the history behind specific garments.

Just my own two cents here. I have what I think is a 58. The contract number ends in "58". Your coats' contract number appears to end in 53 instead of 58?? The contract number on my coat is also different then what is on yours. If they were both 58s I would assume that both would have the same contract number?

 

[Gamma68]

Just my own two cents here. I have what I think is a 58. The contract number ends in "58". Your coats' contract number appears to end in 53 instead of 58?? The contract number on my coat is also different then what is on yours. If they were both 58s I would assume that both would have the same contract number?

The label in my coat is so faded now, I cannot tell if the tag says 58 or 53. I recall looking at the tag closely before I had it dry cleaned and thinking it read 58, but I could've been wrong.

Can we assume there was only one contract for each individual year? It would be great to compile a database for every contract number with a corresponding year (if practical).

I'm hoping Peacoat can chime in with his expertise.

 

[Peacoat]

It certainly looks like a "53" but that would be a big anomaly that I can't explain. If it had been a "58" before the unfortunate dry cleaning episode, that would square with what I know and what is in my archives.

I just blew it up and looked at it with a magnifying glass; it was a "58" prior to being faded by the cleaning. So that is no longer an anomaly. I don't like anomalies. Plus, you read it as a "58" prior to the cleaning. It is a 1958 peacoat.

Can you tell what the numbers are immediately following the "Contract No." Peacoat.

 

[Gamma68]

Can you tell what the numbers are immediately following the "Contract No." Peacoat.

This is my best guess at the Contract No., based on the photo:

_ _ _ (CTM) 273_ - 0._ - 80-0-58

The tag is so faded now that attempts to read it are fruitless.

Can we assume there was only one contract for each individual year? If so, then another tag for a 1958 coat could supply the missing numerals or letters.

What does "CTM" indicate?

Any tips or advice about how to learn something about the original owner: "WILEY DH 588-76-98" ?

Also, the hanging loop on the inside of the rear collar is broken. What would be a suitable replacement that is robust enough for such a heavy coat? Or do most of you just use wide-shoulder hangers? I've been wearing my peacoat so often lately, I just drape it on a chair (the closet is stuffed).