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Plus the tag is one of a kind. That is the only year they existed and will never be made again.The 66 is a great coat. Double stitching 3 inches from the cuff? I have the same year. good price too
Plus the tag is one of a kind. That is the only year they existed and will never be made again.The 66 is a great coat. Double stitching 3 inches from the cuff? I have the same year. good price too
In both my peacoats the sleeves measure 25" but the interior cuff has a good 3" that can be let out. I would look for a size 38'-40" and ask if there is material inside the cuff to lengthen (there should be).I am in need of a little help:
I am looking for a vintage peacoat in kersey wool and all, but have odd body proportions (at least measured against people in days gone by).
I am almost 6.3', chest 39.5", shoulders 17.5 to 17.75", usual sleeve lenght 26.5 " (wrist covered).
Any recomandations what size to look for?
I know that not all navy issued peacoats are created equal, but still...
My main concern are the sleeves.
I would think a 38 Long would work well. I'm 5'9 with a 40-inch chest. I have two 1966 models, a size 40R and a size 38R. The 38R fits me much better. BTW - the 40 has 25.5" sleeves and the 38 has 26.25" sleeves. I'd have to imagine a Long would give you enough sleeve length.I am in need of a little help:
I am looking for a vintage peacoat in kersey wool and all, but have odd body proportions (at least measured against people in days gone by).
I am almost 6.3', chest 39.5", shoulders 17.5 to 17.75", usual sleeve lenght 26.5 " (wrist covered).
Any recomandations what size to look for?
I know that not all navy issued peacoats are created equal, but still...
My main concern are the sleeves.
My only concern with letting out the cuff is that there is likely to be a "line" of discoloration considering the age of a vintage coat.In both my peacoats the sleeves measure 25" but the interior cuff has a good 3" that can be let out. I would look for a size 38'-40" and ask if there is material inside the cuff to lengthen (there should be).
Indeed that would happen. I had an absolute stunner that I sold (dumb) and let the sleeves out. Can’t really tell from the pic but it was there.I would think a 38 Long would work well. I'm 5'9 with a 40-inch chest. I have two 1966 models, a size 40R and a size 38R. The 38R fits me much better. BTW - the 40 has 25.5" sleeves and the 38 has 26.25" sleeves. I'd have to imagine a Long would give you enough sleeve length.
My only concern with letting out the cuff is that there is likely to be a "line" of discoloration considering the age of a vintage coat.
I completely rebuilt this coat! Exterior was absolutely mint. It had seam issues so I had a tailor re-sew every single seam and lengthen the sleeves. Then I sold it. Like a dumb ass.
It really does. It’s surprising to me that Kersey wasn’t adopted by civi manufacturers. It’s clearly far superior in strength to any other wool. It seems to me that it easily could’ve been used for catalog wool jackets but likely the priority of uniform manufacture preempted its use in that way.Excellent fit. What a fabulous old coat. You did well.
Wool rules.
Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.Went to my tailor to have buttons re-sewn, as they were getting a little loose on the button up side. He specializes in vintage jackets. He recommended placing a back button on the inside to protect the fabric from ripping and increase overall durability. That requires removing part of the lining to get at the button holes. Cost $80, which I feel is well worth it. Important to do this calculus when you buy a vintage jacket. The jacket will eventually need a button restore as they were made to be used for maybe two years in the war and that $100 Ebay find just doubled in your investment
Few E-Bay auctions describe button condition. You just need to assume that a restore will be necessary at some point. 80 year old thread. Since these jackets, particularly early WWI jackets, have so many buttons, it is easy to overlook the situation.Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.
Yes, shanks are important as are backing buttons.Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.
No tag in either but I assume a 40” or a 42”. I’ve found I can go as small as a 38” in the 8 button. The 10 button fits more trim, as peacoat has mentioned.Great fit as always, Tony!
What size are you wearing?
I am still on the hunt for a decent size 38 with longer sleeves. Not easy *sigh*
The later 60's and 70's jackets clearly have more peaked shoulders and are longer. A different look than the WWII's. I like having both styles. I have also seen differences in the WWII's with slightly different collars. Thank you for posting your pictures to illustrate this. I need to find a way to take hands free pictures like. you. I may post a few. Finally, I love your stye with the throat latch hanging down. I might adopt that detailNo tag in either but I assume a 40” or a 42”. I’ve found I can go as small as a 38” in the 8 button. The 10 button fits more trim, as peacoat has mentioned. This is a 38” 8 button. Fits like a super heavy suit coat
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Love the throat latch. I’m at my best when I go full boat and wear my navy bells on the bottom.The later 60's and 70's jackets clearly have more peaked shoulders and are longer. A different look than the WWII's. I like having both styles. I have also seen differences in the WWII's with slightly different collars. Thank you for posting your pictures to illustrate this. I need to find a way to take hands free pictures like. you. I may post a few. Finally, I love your stye with the throat latch hanging down. I might adopt that detail