Pull-Up roundup

[Gamma68]

Nearly all my leather jackets over the past few years have been second-hand, mainly because I've found great bargains and the new "drool-worthy" ones are beyond my budget.

Through this journey, I've come to a greater appreciation of buying new and seeing the jacket acquire patina and watching the grain emerge over time. My old jackets have already acquired wear and patina from previous owners. But I'd like to have a jacket that tells my own story.

Now, I'm thinking of saving my nickles and dimes for something in a natural or pull-up leather. Since there's already a thread on natural leathers, let's start one on pull-ups.

I'm looking for ideas on what's out there. Something other than an A-1 or G-2 style.

Off the bat, what comes to mind is the Schott 508:

The Schott 619, which was reviewed earlier in another thread. This looks fabulous:

Also came across this Hillside Leather half-belt bison racer. I'm not familiar with this brand:

What else in the pull-up world is out there for consideration?

And if you have a pull-up jacket, would definitely appreciate seeing some photos of how they look over time. Thanks!

 

[gtrplyr]

I owned a Hillside HH jacket a few years ago. I found it to be underwhelming. Vinyl-like pocket material, thin leather, main zipper that doesn't go all the way to collar. Overall, I think you can get alot nicer jacket for not much more money.

I tried on the Schott 508 in Chicago. Nice jacket that looked cool, but the color is different in person than the stock photos. Lighter in color and not shiny. Not familiar with 619.

 

[ton312]

Pound for pound nothing beats Horween's Brown and Cordovan for pure, off the charts pull-up effect. I'm also a fan of the battered tan, although I suppose that's a bit more marbled than oil and wax induced pull-up...

 

[ton312]

Brown CXL:

Battered Tan:

Cordovan:

 

[Gamma68]

So Horween CXL leathers are considered pull-up?

^ That battered tan looks incredibly nice.

What appeals to me are the marks the pull up leathers acquire over time. Not sure if the battered tan reacts the same?

Based on @ton312's post, looks like I might be headed in the direction of Aero.

 

[ton312]

I've always considered CXL to be the very definition of "pull up effect". The waxes and oils lighten as the leather is pulled or pinched. I know Alan at JL had an incredibly beautiful 2.5oz leather called "Rocky" that pulled from black coffee to a cafe con leche. Not sure if he still had it. It was supreme.

 

[Gamma68]

I've always considered CXL to be the very definition of "pull up effect". The waxes and oils lighten as the leather is pulled or pinched. I know Alan at JL had an incredibly beautiful 2.5oz leather called "Rocky" that pulled from black coffee to a cafe con leche. Not sure if he still had it. It was supreme.

Thanks for clarifying. The "Rocky" sounds delicious.

 

[jonesy86]

OK, still learning. What is the definition of "pull up", and what jackets and leathers are the best representation of this?

 

[Gamma68]

OK, still learning. What is the definition of "pull up", and what jackets and leathers are the best representation of this?

What Ton said, "The waxes and oils lighten as the leather is pulled or pinched."

There is a really good review of the Schott 619 on an independent blog that describes the effect in nice detail. I think this particular jacket looks outstanding: http://afine-toothcomb.blogspot.com/2016/03/in-review-schott-619-hand-oiled.html

 

[jonesy86]

I forgot to do a search before asking.:

MAY 9, 2018 #7
handymike
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I'll Lock Up
Messages:4,812
Location:SoCal
Here's a quote from Holly @ Aero:
An "Oil Pull" or pull-up leather is a full aniline leather that is packed with oils and waxes during tanning. When the leather is "pulled" (hence the name), the oils thin causing the colour to become lighter in the areas where it's been stretched. Once the leather is made into a garment some areas are pulled and creased more than others producing a natural variation of colour and producing a naturalaged look on the elbows, seams,and other areas where the natural folds of the garment occur.

Despite it's name this leather has a clean dry surface, if it's tanned correctly it should not be greasy or oily to the touch in any way.

 

[jonesy86]

And here is what Horween says:

leathers — Horween Leather Co.
https://www.horween.com/articles/
Chromexcel is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases. Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes.

 

[mihai]

The effect is nice no doubt.
However I can't help of babying new jackets. Thinking just how much is worth makes me careful at each move. Plus that I like more the new things looks. Same is with denim while seeing used ones looking spectacular I wouldn't bring one of mines in that state.
Plus if you get bored and you want to sell, most of buyers will want smth as pristine as possible. Regardless if they think the jacket is cool and has character. I saw this even here in the Classified section. Rarely the patinated jackets sell that easy. Just my observation maybe I am wrong.