proper fit question for Schott-length, ride up

[Cedric Satterfield]

I have a Schott 184 sm (a weird hybrid between an A-2 and a G-1) that I have inherited in almost unworn condtion. Its a 54, with a 27" back. I'm 5' 9" ish and the seam between the leather and the waistband hits me right at the hips. I'm not thin-think 50 inch chest and probably 54 inch waist (though it IS diminishing)

When I sit or do anything with my arms the jacket rides up from the bottom. Is this a normal consequence of the design/fit of this style of jacket, or could be be just because of the jacket being distorted by me? It zips comfortably, but there it just 'feels' short.

I have an Avirex A-2 that is a 2xlT and it just 'feels' like its the right length, but that could be me being used to oversized clothing, too.

If its a design thing, ill get used to it, especially as I lose more weight. I just wondered if it was something that Ill need to adjust to.

 

[Aether]

Hi Cedric,

It could be the cut of the armholes that cause it to ride up? Low cut/large armholes sometimes cause this? Probably best to post up some pictures so the kind gents on here can offer their advice.

 

[Cedric Satterfield]

*lol* I KNEW someone would say that. Im girthy. Ill get some pics tonight we can sort it out.

 

[Jack Burton]

I wore the exact same jacket for a couple years. I think in that style, the elastic in the waistband is too tight. I clearly remember pulling on the coat with both hands, like an exercise machine in an attempt to weaken the elastic. This was apparent in the fact that when you took the jacket off, the bottom of the coat wrinkled up like accordion bellows.

In other words, when you sit or even run, the waistband wants to pull the jacket up to the smaller circumference of your navel area. So I was always re-adjusting it. This is one of the reasons I stopped wearing that jacket and eventually sold it. It's a great looking jacket but Schott messes up the waistband IMO.

 

[Cedric Satterfield]

YES! You have explained it in english! Some of it is discomfort a bit since it pulls up over the 'me' that needs to go away (self consciousness) but it still seemed to be a bit much, since my Avirex only has about an inch or so of length on my Schott, but feels so much better when I wear it (lamb vs. cowhide? Amount of overall stretch, or lack thereof) I've done fluff dryer a few times on the Schott and it is relaxing, but I hate the idea of giving it up because of this one thing. I wonder if the Longs are any better in this make.

Thanks, Jack! Keep on Truckin.

 

[Cedric Satterfield]

Could that bit be removed without damaging the jacket, perhaps?

 

[Jack Burton]

I wonder if the Longs are any better in this make.....
Could that bit be removed without damaging the jacket, perhaps?

The longs may work better but I wouldn't bet on it since the waistband would still be too tight causing it to ride up. If the current length is good for you, I'd address the underlying problem, the waistband.

I remember making a small incision in the lining to see if there was an extra piece of elastic near the waistband which was making the coat tight but there was not. All the tension is coming from the knit waistband. I would like to think a competent tailor could remove the current waistband and sew in a longer waistband of the same material, in effect making the coat looser at the waist. I'd call Schott and see if they can do it. Even in Schott's photos, the back of the coat is slightly retarded. It's apparent that they're stretching the waistband too far when they sew it in.

 

[Cedric Satterfield]

So...that's not normal?

That binding at the waistline isn't normal?

 

[captaincaveman1]

Perhaps there are other jacket styles out there that would suit you better. The elastic band does tend to ride up and a larger waistline probably does not help matters.

54 inch waist

 

[Cedric Satterfield]

That is why it's going away! *lol*

 

[Jack Burton]

That binding at the waistline isn't normal?

Correct. There is too much wrinkling because the band was stitched on while it was overstretched. Look at almost any other A-2 and you'll see that Schott is doing something wrong here.

 

[ButteMT61]

54 US?
wanna sell it?

 

[garzo]

Funny, I had the exact opposite problem a few years ago when I bought a new 184SM size 44. I found the waistline was too loose and the jacket did not have that "bottleneck" look at the waist -- it just hung down at the same width as the rest of the jacket and looked like a leather sack. I received a replacement waistband from Schott (since I live overseas, I could not send my jacket to them) and took it to a local leather tailor who swapped the waistband. It was much tighter and worked much better. This type of blouson jacket just does not look good with a loose waistband because it's already cut very wide and needs to be tight at the bottom, otherwise you'll look like you're wearing a leather lampshade.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I dont know if this will work, but when buying headphones that are too tight on the head i usually clamp them over a few books or something over the night a few times and it gets a little looser.
Maybe you could do it with the jacket also, stretch it almost to the max over a row of books over the night and see what happens.....unless someone thinks this could damage the jacket.
Maybe dipping it into warm water first, but then you will need some plastic not to ruin the books. Im thinking alike the lines when you want to loosen stormcuffs you can put a bottle of warm water into the sleeve end for a bit.
But do it at own risk since I have never tried it.

 

[Jack Burton]

This type of blouson jacket just does not look good with a loose waistband because it's already cut very wide and needs to be tight at the bottom, otherwise you'll look like you're wearing a leather lampshade.

You may be on to something. I don't know if Schott cuts their patterns differently than everyone else or not but even their G-1 looks like a pumpkin. Compared to most G-1s, the coat below looks out of proportion as far as the waist goes.

 

[garzo]

Yes, check out these two curious pics -- they are both Schott 184SM jackets, but with very different fitting waistbands. I personally prefer the tighter one. It does not ride up on me like on some other people, although I can't say that it's really tight, but it's certainly not loose.

 

[Jack Burton]

Here's a convo I found between a Schott rep and who I assume is our Garzo. My coat was bought in '95 so it must have been one of these.
https://secure.schottnyc.com/forum/posts/184_sm_waistband.htm

Years ago we used pre-cut waistbands in the jackets, meaning we only had 3 sizes to fit all the sizes from 32 - 54. Depending on the jacket size some waistbands were probably tighter based on the waistband size used, as they would stretch out when you put the jacket on. We tried to improve the fit of the waistbands about 10 years ago by ordering the knit uncut on rolls. This allows us to cut a better size knit for the jacket based on the jackets size. As always we are more then willing to check the knit for you, if you feel you have a problem. You can contact me by email gail@schottnyc.com to send your jacket in for us to inspect for a problem. Gail

 

[garzo]

Yes, check out these two curious pics -- they are both Schott 184SM jackets, but with very different fitting waistbands. I personally prefer the tighter one. It does not ride up on me like on some other people, although I can't say that it's really tight, but it's certainly not loose.

I added the second pic again because it had disappeared from my previous post. I just wanted to show that the current 184 SM models seem to have very loose waistbands and are not really tight like they are shown to be in the first picture. I would much prefer my 184 waistband to be tighter and to have that bottleneck form.

 

[ButteMT61]

I have the 184 SML (just the Long version) and it's like the first pic. I wouldn't worry about the pics as much as if you notice, the bottom one is flat whereas the top one is not - like it would be on a human. And, the waistbands will stretch over time if you zip it a lot. Just the way it is, but I have 5 Schott's with that waist and they hold up well as they are thick and not all wool like a WWII jacket is.

 

[too much coffee]

Hello Cedric;

Well I'm glad you're working on reducing your girth. Don't even think about a Long if you are 5'9".

These flight jackets and pseudo flight jackets are very unforgiving when it comes to a guy that is not in the best of shape.

Lose the weight (and when you do this jacket will be too large on you) and while you're doing that, think about the ideal jacket you want when all that reduction is accomplished. Buy the jacket and wear it proudly!

And whatever you do, do not sell ButteMT61 your jacket.........he has too many!

Best regards,
coffee