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[Pellie]

A splendid homburg!

Thank you Randy!

 

[steur]

View attachment 821373
Stetson Select Quality
Tan felt with brown trim
6 Inch Crown Open (approx 4 3/4 as shaped)
2 3/8 Raw Edge Brim
2 inch Brown Grosgrain Ribbon w/ Frayed Edge
1 7/8 Sweatband with taped rear seam.

This latest arrival came off a much appreciated tip from a friend to its Facebook marketplace place ad. Luckily the seller was willing to ship… so on its way it was. Sold originally at Ruby and Peters Company in Perth Amboy, NJ, it had made its way to only about two hours away in PA…. Now it has traveled down South to its new home in Florida. As I knew from the seller’s photos it was going to need a bit of work to return it to some of its former glory. It had long been settled into one of those very deep center creases that tend to collapse onto itself. So a very heavy brushing and steaming was in order. Considering the proportions of this hat with a 6 inch crown to a 2 3/8 brim, I like to use up some of that generous crown space with a diamond shape crease that reduces the height a bit and gives it a more boxy silhouette I prefer.

The sweatband while holding up fairly well is a bit stiff and brittle, but I took a little risk to try to find any evidence of age under the sweat. I did not find a LotXXX number, but I did find a red three cell hand written manufacturer tag an orange reorder tag along with some hand written notations. Luckily I believe I only managed to burst the taped seam in the process or possibly from stretching it a bit on to my head. Either way… It now fits pretty comfortably. The only issues with the felt are a few slightly larger than quarter sized spots, one on the brim and two on the crown where the felt is somewhat lighter in appearance. I had though maybe fungus a culprit and tried to see what I could get out with a heavier brushing, may have reduced it slightly but it is still there. Might try sanding at some point…. But really it’s nothing too bad for a hat with nearly a century (give or take) of existence.

I’ve got two other Stetson Select Quality… both incredible specimens in my mind. But as wonderful as they are neither of those is in a style I would consider a “Daily wear” kinda hat. This one however fits that bill perfectly…. Color, cut, shape and finish. Absolutely love this one!

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Very cool find, Joe. Great to see how it shaped up. Still a lit of life left in that one.

 

[steur]

Thank you Marcel. Very interesting Flechet with the side seam. I feel like I remember Stefan found something similar some time back.

Thanks Bill!!

Nothing wrong with your memory, Joe. I think you mean this one. A Cambiaghi with some more elaborate seamwork going on.

Must have been a thing at one time in France especially. I've seen these on Mossant as well. And here is a Tirard with a similar embellishment.

 

[steur]

Just picked up this Tonak from the bay— a place I spend less and less time these days because I think it seems to be going downhill for sellers and buyers, but was interested in the green velour up close and in person.
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Spectacular (even if it is green)! Great find, Jeff.

 

[steur]

Two Italian hats from brands that are either unknown or rarely seen in these circles.
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Let’s start with the more intriguing one: "Castorino"—both Stefan and Marcel own examples, though theirs are quite different from each other.
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Stefan’s "Castorino" features a manufacturing label identical to those found in Borsalino hats.
The gray felt is of medium weight and extremely malleable—much like certain Borsalino hats, which seem to change shape just by being looked at.
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Marcel’s hat has no label; it has been torn out. I bought one myself, though I was skeptical about it being a Borsalino—but, alas, the label in mine has been torn out as well.
Consequently, the only concrete evidence comes from Stefan’s piece: it is a Borsalino in disguise.
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There are others like it on the market, but the "Castorino" brand is new to me.
As you can see, the hat has a very 1950s profile, with proportions to match and size is 56 cm,
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The other hat was almost certainly produced by Panizza; the felt, its color, and the finish all point toward the Ghiffa factory.
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The trademark is "Lord's hat", I have come across a few of these—not many—and I believe I own one myself.
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In this instance, it is being presented as an English hat. It is labeled as a size 59, but it fits more like a 58, or perhaps even a 57.
Panizza was, in Italy, the largest manufacturer of felts with medium and long pile finish and the colors that recall the colors of honey are fantastic. This is one
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Neither of them fits my head, so perhaps someone else might be interested

Nice finds, Daniele. Lord is one of those brand names that keeps popping up here and there. A bit like Windsor. The brand name Lord (not Lord's) was registered by Cervo in 1927.

Advertised with it too. With this great poster by Paolo Garretto.

 

[Pellie]

Nothing wrong with your memory, Joe. I think you mean this one. A Cambiaghi with some more elaborate seamwork going on.

View attachment 822316

Must have been a thing at one time in France especially. I've seen these on Mossant as well. And here is a Tirard with a similar embellishment.

View attachment 822317

I was almost buying that Tirard, but didn't push the buy button. I think it's sold now!

 

[mayserwegener]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik "E A P L - Echt Purlei" "Supra", Wool, 58 cm, 189 grams, possibly early to mid 1930s. The Black Wool Felt is dense and has a fine Smooth Finish. My searches came up empty for the "E A P L - Echt Purlei" trademark..

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Two hats for the same season: winter. They were produced by Borsalino, which, during the 1970s and 80s, offered excellent felt hats—featuring short- or medium-nap finishes and colors that departed from the brand’s traditional, signature palette.

There are two styles: the first features a felt hatband adorning a hat with a compact silhouette and a particularly striking color.

The second also has a felt hatband, embellished with a circular stitched pattern near the bow.

A brief personal note: these hats—along with others—were saved from being discarded.

They were "dead stock" sold at a street stall.
Although they were not in the best condition, they underwent expert restoration in the Netherlands, returning them to their original shape and fit.

Both are a size 56; one is marked as a 57, but time has caused it to shrink.

These two examples did not achieve widespread success outside of Italy—or even much of Europe—yet they represent a specific, transitional phase in the history of Italian hat-making.
IMPORTANT: For all those who wear size 59–60 hats, the first offers are now available in the Classifieds.

 

[Blare]

Just picked up this Tonak from the bay— a place I spend less and less time these days because I think it seems to be going downhill for sellers and buyers, but was interested in the green velour up close and in person.
View attachment 821706

Very nice find!

 

[Blare]

Very cool find, Joe. Great to see how it shaped up. Still a lit of life left in that one.

Thank you Stefan. Enjoying this old survivor.

 

[mayserwegener]

Resolut Homburger Hutfabrik "Merkur", 58 cm, possibly early 1960s. This is one of a 3 NOS Soft Felt find that came from the "Josef Faller Paderborn" Hat Store. The Blue Gray Felt is a Mélange with a Rauh Finish. The Band and Bow designs are both distinctive.

Open Crown

 

[jeffgarf]

Following up @mayserwegener with one I'd like him to look at, I got this Huckel for Selco from an online auction in Montana, of all places. Selco, now Selentino of New Jersey, got its start in Brooklyn selling mostly Huckel/Tonak hats to the Eastern European/Hungarian Jewish community in the area. How this hat made it from Brooklyn to Montana, seemingly never worn and never creased, I guess, is a mystery that will continue. Czechoslovakia dissolved in 1993 so I have a timeline on the hat from about 1950's to 1993. Hopefully the label provides more clues.

The hat is a very thick felt, the opposite of a Borsolino, what would have been its competition in the market. It is fantastically well made, with a genuine leather sweatband, as supple as the best can be. It has a brim of 2 5/8" and the open crown is at 5 1/4". A wonderful hat to add to my black collection.

 

[Judgmentalist]

Borsalino "Mascotte" with box. Punti 5 1/2. 75g. Rutenio is a reference to the lovely gray color. Hoping one of you guys can help me out with "Ergosan". Love that sweatband.

 

[jeffgarf]

Borsalino "Mascotte" with box. Punti 5 1/2. 75g. Rutenio is a reference to the lovely gray color. Hoping one of you guys can help me out with "Ergosan". Love that sweatband.
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Ergosan is one of the inscrutable model names Borsalino uses.

 

[bowlerman]

Spectacular (even if it is green)! Great find, Jeff.

VERY green! Ha

 

[bowlerman]

Jeff, Super find! It's an earlier Tonak and appears to be NOS. The Velour looks fantastic. Would it be possible to take a photo of the paper label? Thanks!