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blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Many thanks to @ruvort , who brought this amazing boater to my attention. I assumed it wouldn't fit, since most 7 3/8 vintage hats are too tight for me, but it fits really well. Perhaps boaters like this aren't subject to the same shrinking-with-age problem other types of hats are?

I've been trying to research the maker with no success. I will post later in the boater forum and hopefully somebody will have some information. "Dirigo" means "I lead" or "I direct" and is the official state motto of Maine, but no idea if that has anything to do with this hat. I found one reference to a simlar hat in an online museum collection, but it didn't provide any more information. The M H Co (I assume this is the correct order) below "Quality Supreme" may be a reference to the Merrimac Hat Company. I've also seen it written as Merrimac Hat Corporation, and I believe the second version is correct, and that they both refer to the same entity.

I absolutely love the weave on this hat. The sweatband resizer ribbon is awesome.

Crazy-weave boater - isn't this cool? lol
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I remember that one, it's a sick looking hat!

I haven't had time but have been meaning to post some inspo pics of dashing men in outfits with boaters, but I think they look great with a tux (if the ribbon is in the black/white/grey spectrum) as they were the "correct" headwear for evening attire in the summer, or with really any type of summer outfit. I like mine with navy sportcoats and cream trousers and spectator shoes but I'm sure I've worn them with other things as well.
 

jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
I remember that one, it's a sick looking hat!

I haven't had time but have been meaning to post some inspo pics of dashing men in outfits with boaters, but I think they look great with a tux (if the ribbon is in the black/white/grey spectrum) as they were the "correct" headwear for evening attire in the summer, or with really any type of summer outfit. I like mine with navy sportcoats and cream trousers and spectator shoes but I'm sure I've worn them with other things as well.
Seersucker!
 

jba972

One of the Regulars
Messages
135
Stetson 3X. I think I'm describing it correctly by calling it an Open Road style since its not on the sweatband and the brim isn't bound. I think that the felt feels very nice. Has a great balance of malleability and structure. I could see the interest in these older Stetsons.
 

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blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Stetson 3X. I think I'm describing it correctly by calling it an Open Road style since its not on the sweatband and the brim isn't bound. I think that the felt feels very nice. Has a great balance of malleability and structure. I could see the interest in these older Stetsons.
Nice looking lid! Those 3X's are a sweet spot for price/quality in my opinion.

I wouldn't consider it an Open Road style because like you said it doesn't have a bound brim. Stetson made a variety of thin ribbon western hats that can be seen in many of the Miller Stockman catalogs posted here in that thread.

Hurricane Jack/Bamaboots/M Hatman may have more insight into what it could be.
 

jba972

One of the Regulars
Messages
135
Nice looking lid! Those 3X's are a sweet spot for price/quality in my opinion.

I wouldn't consider it an Open Road style because like you said it doesn't have a bound brim. Stetson made a variety of thin ribbon western hats that can be seen in many of the Miller Stockman catalogs posted here in that thread.

Hurricane Jack/Bamaboots/M Hatman may have more insight into what it could be.
Yep....not sure what to call it. The cattleman crease and the thin ribbon are the only thing that is open road. The brim is about 3 inches too. I was just really interested in seeing the felt quality of a 50s Stetson 3X.
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Stetson 3X. I think I'm describing it correctly by calling it an Open Road style since its not on the sweatband and the brim isn't bound. I think that the felt feels very nice. Has a great balance of malleability and structure. I could see the interest in these older Stetsons.
Very nice! I'm looking for one of these in my size. Congrats!!
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
My first Mallory.

I’m dating it to the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably somewhere around 1958–65. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Mallory had already come under Stetson ownership by this point, but this is still a proper American-made fur-felt Mallory—not one of the considerably later wool hats carrying the revived Mallory name.

The Cravenette designation refers to the water-resistant treatment that Mallory advertised as helping the hat “shed showers.” It also came with a Mallory box, although I suspect the box may be somewhat younger than the hat, and I can’t say with certainty that the two began life together.

Early on, I really thought I would be drawn to more conservative brim widths, but stingy brims generally aren’t my thing. This one, however, works much better on me than I expected. The wide ribbon and chunky bow help balance the proportions, and the very dark brown is just a great color.

Mallory "Aristocrat Quality" Cravenette
Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (8).JPG
Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (1).JPG
Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (3).JPG
Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (4).JPG
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Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (11).JPG
Mallory stingy brim brown fedora 09-08-2026 (14).JPG
 

jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
My first Mallory.

I’m dating it to the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably somewhere around 1958–65. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Mallory had already come under Stetson ownership by this point, but this is still a proper American-made fur-felt Mallory—not one of the considerably later wool hats carrying the revived Mallory name.

The Cravenette designation refers to the water-resistant treatment that Mallory advertised as helping the hat “shed showers.” It also came with a Mallory box, although I suspect the box may be somewhat younger than the hat, and I can’t say with certainty that the two began life together.

Early on, I really thought I would be drawn to more conservative brim widths, but stingy brims generally aren’t my thing. This one, however, works much better on me than I expected. The wide ribbon and chunky bow help balance the proportions, and the very dark brown is just a great color.

Mallory "Aristocrat Quality" Cravenette
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Looks nice on ya'
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
My first Mallory.

I’m dating it to the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably somewhere around 1958–65. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Mallory had already come under Stetson ownership by this point, but this is still a proper American-made fur-felt Mallory—not one of the considerably later wool hats carrying the revived Mallory name.

The Cravenette designation refers to the water-resistant treatment that Mallory advertised as helping the hat “shed showers.” It also came with a Mallory box, although I suspect the box may be somewhat younger than the hat, and I can’t say with certainty that the two began life together.

Early on, I really thought I would be drawn to more conservative brim widths, but stingy brims generally aren’t my thing. This one, however, works much better on me than I expected. The wide ribbon and chunky bow help balance the proportions, and the very dark brown is just a great color.

Mallory "Aristocrat Quality" Cravenette
View attachment 809018 View attachment 809019 View attachment 809020 View attachment 809021 View attachment 809022 View attachment 809023 View attachment 809024 View attachment 809025 View attachment 809026 View attachment 809027
This is a picture of Brough's.

Brough's Men's Wear.jpg
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
I bought this hat because it was pretty and cheap.

This Lee “Kingway” Black Label Water-Bloc Homburg is a very dark burgundy-brown, with a lighter ribbon and binding that bring out the reddish tones.

I’m dating it approximately to the 1950s based on the liner, plastic-covered tip, sweatband markings and factory label. It was originally sold by Werner’s at 3152 South 27th Street in Milwaukee.

Lee “Kingway” Black Label Water-Bloc Homburg
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (1).JPG
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Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (7).JPG
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (8).JPG
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (9).JPG
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (10).JPG
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (11).JPG
Lee size 7 burgundy homburg (12).JPG
 

EL-Jimenez74

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
Fort Mill, SC
I bought this hat because it was pretty and cheap.

This Lee “Kingway” Black Label Water-Bloc Homburg is a very dark burgundy-brown, with a lighter ribbon and binding that bring out the reddish tones.

I’m dating it approximately to the 1950s based on the liner, plastic-covered tip, sweatband markings and factory label. It was originally sold by Werner’s at 3152 South 27th Street in Milwaukee.

Lee “Kingway” Black Label Water-Bloc Homburg
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Awesome color, not something you see too often in a Homburg, love it!
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
26,492
Location
London, UK
I remember that one, it's a sick looking hat!

I haven't had time but have been meaning to post some inspo pics of dashing men in outfits with boaters, but I think they look great with a tux (if the ribbon is in the black/white/grey spectrum) as they were the "correct" headwear for evening attire in the summer, or with really any type of summer outfit. I like mine with navy sportcoats and cream trousers and spectator shoes but I'm sure I've worn them with other things as well.

I do like a boater with black tie in the Summer. Particularly with an ivory, shawl-collar DJ and a burgundy ***merbund in the mix. I do match a pocket square to the ***merbund in that context (otherwise never anything but a white square with dj). They're a great top-off to a thirties-style Summer outfit of any sort. I've been aa fan of boaters for a very long time, decades before I actually started wearing one. The result of discovering Harold Lloyd at an impressionable age...

My most recent hat arrived over the last couple of days, after the long shipping route via eBay's international shipping system. One of those hats I looked at a lot, was weirdly attracted to, then in the end sort of bought kind of by accident...

1789063227889.jpeg


Just unboxed in the office, quick and dirty dry bash (it came open crown). Bit of a Hendrix vibe to it, which I like, lovely felt (no brand, no idea what it "is"). I will most likely replace the hatband with something that has less of a Sixties feel to it, something a little more subtle. Well.... as subtle as anything on a purple furfelt can be.... :)
 

jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
I do like a boater with black tie in the Summer. Particularly with an ivory, shawl-collar DJ and a burgundy ***merbund in the mix. I do match a pocket square to the ***merbund in that context (otherwise never anything but a white square with dj). They're a great top-off to a thirties-style Summer outfit of any sort. I've been aa fan of boaters for a very long time, decades before I actually started wearing one. The result of discovering Harold Lloyd at an impressionable age...

My most recent hat arrived over the last couple of days, after the long shipping route via eBay's international shipping system. One of those hats I looked at a lot, was weirdly attracted to, then in the end sort of bought kind of by accident...

View attachment 809286

Just unboxed in the office, quick and dirty dry bash (it came open crown). Bit of a Hendrix vibe to it, which I like, lovely felt (no brand, no idea what it "is"). I will most likely replace the hatband with something that has less of a Sixties feel to it, something a little more subtle. Well.... as subtle as anything on a purple furfelt can be.... :)
Not much is going to make that "subtle." Wear it proudly, though.
 

rstewart8706

Familiar Face
Messages
53
Location
Near Ocoee, TN
My first Lee hat acquired from @jeffgarf for a great price. Thank you for your expert assistance! Im not a collector. I was looking for some "new" hats to wear this fall and winter. I received 2 hats from @jeffgarf, both Lee's. I will post pictures of the other Lee later. Im really digging this gray Lee at the moment.
 

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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Back from the lake.

I bought this one because it was pretty and cheap, and then trying to identify the maker became something of an interesting side project.

It’s marked 7¼, but when it arrived it actually fit me—which was a surprise and points toward British or Commonwealth manufacture. A British 7¼ corresponds roughly to an American 7⅜. I even found an old newspaper cartoon referencing Leonard’s Hatters, although I have no way of confirming that it has any connection to this particular Leonard label.

I love the color and that wide ribbon. Gets me every time. It could do with a bit more brim, but what are you going to do? Still, a pretty sharp looking little hat.

Leonard Hats - Olive green stingy-brim fedora

Leonard hats depop 09-13-2026 (1).JPG
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Leonard hats depop 09-13-2026 (10).JPG

Leonards Hats.jpg

Leonard hats depop 09-13-2026 (12).JPG
 
Messages
12,564
Location
Orange County, California
My first Mallory.

I’m dating it to the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably somewhere around 1958–65. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Mallory had already come under Stetson ownership by this point, but this is still a proper American-made fur-felt Mallory—not one of the considerably later wool hats carrying the revived Mallory name.

The Cravenette designation refers to the water-resistant treatment that Mallory advertised as helping the hat “shed showers.” It also came with a Mallory box, although I suspect the box may be somewhat younger than the hat, and I can’t say with certainty that the two began life together.

Early on, I really thought I would be drawn to more conservative brim widths, but stingy brims generally aren’t my thing. This one, however, works much better on me than I expected. The wide ribbon and chunky bow help balance the proportions, and the very dark brown is just a great color.

Mallory "Aristocrat Quality" Cravenette
View attachment 809018 View attachment 809019 View attachment 809020 View attachment 809021 View attachment 809022 View attachment 809023 View attachment 809024 View attachment 809025 View attachment 809026 View attachment 809027

Wow, that's nice! If I had to choose between this hat and the one seen just above (Post #56,978) I think this one would win purely because it's my size. Wear it in good health, my friend! :)
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Wow, that's nice! If I had to choose between this hat and the one seen just above (Post #56,978) I think this one would win purely because it's my size. Wear it in good health, my friend! :)
I actually just listed this hat on eBay lol - let me know if you want it - I’ll make you a deal - my wife says it isn’t my vibe. :)
 

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