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jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
This is my first hat of this brand. I like the colors of both the felt and the ribbon, and especially the way they work together. I also like the chunky ribbon and bow. I definitely have a preference in that regard.

Interestingly, it fits like a 7 3/8 with what appears to be the original sweatband, but the underside of the liner is marked “7 1/4 HARV.” I have no idea what “HARV” means. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

Marathon was, I believe, J. C. Penney’s first major house brand, introduced in 1914, with the hats manufactured under contract by other companies. Many were reportedly made by Lee, but I don’t see any way to confirm who made this particular hat.

Penney's Marathon Homburg

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Beautiful. Love that the experience lets you know that chunky bands work for you.
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
HJ Temple Poet - been trying to figure out which Indy Hat I wanted to get for a minute, and this one decided for me. Got a pretty good deal on an essentially brand new hat in my size.

I'm not a big fan of the Temple shape, though, so I'm going to have it reshaped into a Raiders Turn hat.

Nice hat - rabbit felt with a nice feel to it, it has the dimensional brim, all it needs is a little reshaping and some de-linting and it will be perfect. :)

Herbert Johnson Temple Poet
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guest appearance by my Indy jacket - been waiting for an excuse to pull this thing out lol
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Sent this one to @HatsBySam to have it converted into a Raiders Turn. He did a lovely job.

Here is a link where I posted the rest of the photos if anybody is interested. Thanks Sam. :)

Thread 'Wonderful work by HatsbySam'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/wonderful-work-by-hatsbysam.121004/

HJ Poet RT HBS 09-03-2026 (2).jpeg

HJ Poet RT HBS 09-03-2026 (18).jpeg
 

The MBP

New in Town
Messages
7

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
I need to get over to the dating thread and see if I can figure out how old this hat is.

I love this hat. I was afraid it would be a little tight - vintage 7 3/8 often is - but it fits really well.

Now that I have a couple legitimately LO hats I can confidently say I prefer standard oval, but this hat is soft enough to conform to my head and it doesn't distort the brim.

Stetson St. Regis 3XB Homburg in "Midnight" - I love Homburgs. Still don't know if the H is supposed to be capitalized, but I go with it since it was originally a proper name.

Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (3).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (1).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (2).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (4).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (5).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (6).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (7).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (9).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (10).JPG
Stetson St. Regis 3XB 15 Homburg Midnight (13).JPG
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
I need to get over to the dating thread and see if I can figure out how old this hat is.

I love this hat. I was afraid it would be a little tight - vintage 7 3/8 often is - but it fits really well.

Now that I have a couple legitimately LO hats I can confidently say I prefer standard oval, but this hat is soft enough to conform to my head and it doesn't distort the brim.

Stetson St. Regis 3XB Homburg in "Midnight" - I love Homburgs. Still don't know if the H is supposed to be capitalized, but I go with it since it was originally a proper name.

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Nice one! I think 3Xs are great. Interested to hear what you think about its age when you get around to it.
 
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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Nice one! I think 3Xs are great. Interested to hear what you think about its age when you get around to it.
Will do :) - for some reason when I want to play with hats my work schedule magically opens up, but when it’s time to do Stetson research the calendar fills up fast. - I’m aware of the problem and I am working on it
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Will do :) - for some reason when I want to play with hats my work schedule magically opens up, but when it’s time to do Stetson research the calendar fills up fast. - I’m aware of the problem and I am working on it

Also, am I correct that it doesn't say St Regis anywhere in the actual hat? What is the block number on the reorder tag?

Asking because there have been many words spilled over whether or not particular hats are Open Roads or Whippets or whatever if the dimensions and block number are the same but there's nothing in the hat that denotes it as such. It seems very likely this is the original box, and the box clearly marks it as a St Regis. I mean I guess it's possible someone found a 3X Midnite 7 3/8 LO St Regis box to store their 3X Midnite blue 7 3/8 LO Stetson homburg that's a different model but the chances seem pretty slim to me. I searched forever to find another example of this (also with a St Regis) that I remember seeing somewhere in either the homburg nation or stetson thread because I have a homburg that appears to be a St Regis that is also not marked, but I never could find it again (the post I had seen).
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Also, am I correct that it doesn't say St Regis anywhere in the actual hat? What is the block number on the reorder tag?

Asking because there have been many words spilled over whether or not particular hats are Open Roads or Whippets or whatever if the dimensions and block number are the same but there's nothing in the hat that denotes it as such. It seems very likely this is the original box, and the box clearly marks it as a St Regis. I mean I guess it's possible someone found a 3X Midnite 7 3/8 LO St Regis box to store their 3X Midnite blue 7 3/8 LO Stetson homburg that's a different model but the chances seem pretty slim to me. I searched forever to find another example of this (also with a St Regis) that I remember seeing somewhere in either the homburg nation or stetson thread because I have a homburg that appears to be a St Regis that is also not marked, but I never could find it again (the post I had seen).
Son of a bixch in a basket. How the heck did I miss that?! Apparently I was going of the eBay listing and the receipt paper-thing and shut my brain off by the time I got around to looking at hat.

Correct, it does not say St. Regis anywhere on the hat. There is nothing of note under the sweatband or I would have included it with the original post.

Do you have a theory as to why this might be called a St. Regis on that paper but not anywhere on the hat?

Perhaps the paper was created by the retailer that sold the hat originally and they were as careful as I am about labeling it?
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Dobbs Lord’s hat with a pretty cool “Improved Cavanagh Edge” imprint on the sweatband.

From what I’ve found, Dobbs used this designation in the early to mid-1930s, changed to “Improved Felted Welt Edge” by the late 1930s and then introduced “Guild Edge” in 1944. That makes my best guess approximately 1934–1937.

Please correct me if you see something I'm missing. :) This hat looks incredibly clean to be that old, particularly the liner, and the researcher, unfortunately, is not un-biased. Results are inherently suspect lol.

It fits a little too snug; to be expected from a vintage 7 3/8. I've got it sitting gently on a hat stretcher but I would compress my skull before I would damage this hat.

I just can’t limit myself to 7 1/2 in vintage. I would love to see data showing how availability declines with each increase in size. I bet it describes a predictable mathematical curve.

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I have an excess of homburgs, but have yet to find a Lord's hat. If I didn't say it when you posted it, nice score!

Have been perusing the Esquire archives again and saw an illustration with a superb use of a lord's hat in an outfit. Posting here for inspo in case you dig it.

esq043805-jpg.292129
 

Pellie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,925
Location
Enschede, Netherlands

hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
949
Location
Roll Tide
Son of a bixch in a basket. How the heck did I miss that?! Apparently I was going of the eBay listing and the receipt paper-thing and shut my brain off by the time I got around to looking at hat.

Correct, it does not say St. Regis anywhere on the hat. There is nothing of note under the sweatband or I would have included it with the original post.

Do you have a theory as to why this might be called a St. Regis on that paper but not anywhere on the hat?

Perhaps the paper was created by the retailer that sold the hat originally and they were as careful as I am about labeling it?
Someone may correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the St Regis is associated with the Royal De Luxe quality, which is a step beneath the 3X. I have a couple St Regis homburgs and they are RD. I’ve never held a Stetson homburg in 3X, but I assume it’s a better felt without the fancy model name.
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
I have an excess of homburgs, but have yet to find a Lord's hat. If I didn't say it when you posted it, nice score!

Have been perusing the Esquire archives again and saw an illustration with a superb use of a lord's hat in an outfit. Posting here for inspo in case you dig it.

esq043805-jpg.292129
Oh yeah - I've got a lot of this stuff on deck just waiting for the five minutes of fall/winter we get here in the Southeast - I plan to make the most of it. I will be celebrating Felt Day promptly on the 15th lol. This will be the first year I actually get to wear my felt hats during the appropriate season.
 
Messages
13,673
This is my first hat of this brand. I like the colors of both the felt and the ribbon, and especially the way they work together. I also like the chunky ribbon and bow. I definitely have a preference in that regard.

Interestingly, it fits like a 7 3/8 with what appears to be the original sweatband, but the underside of the liner is marked “7 1/4 HARV.” I have no idea what “HARV” means. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

Marathon was, I believe, J. C. Penney’s first major house brand, introduced in 1914, with the hats manufactured under contract by other companies. Many were reportedly made by Lee, but I don’t see any way to confirm who made this particular hat.

Penney's Marathon Homburg

View attachment 807635 View attachment 807636 View attachment 807637 View attachment 807638 View attachment 807639 View attachment 807640 View attachment 807641 View attachment 807642 View attachment 807643 View attachment 807644
A beautiful Marathon homburg.
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
This is my first longhair hat and my first Pork Pie. I can’t get the brim of this thing sorted out. Do I need to buy a flange to fix it?


Dobbs began in New York in 1908 as the retail arm of Crofut & Knapp and later became one of the principal Hat Corporation of America brands.

The factory label, gold coach sweatband stamp and plastic-covered liner appear to date it to the 1950s or early 1960s. Let me know if I'm missing something. It is marked size 7 3/8 Long Oval. “Walkers” was presumably the retailer, but I can't find anything on that retail location. It has a "DOE" personalization but I ran into a similar dead end trying to come up with something interesting there. Not surprising; three initials aren't much to go on.

The guild circle emblem to the right of the Dobbs Twenty lable is in reference to Dobbs' version of the Cav edge. You really have to wonder why we lost the capacity to create this edge - it is such an interesting finish detail.

One thing I can say about longhair hats—you don’t have to worry about lint and other assorted nonsense showing up in your photos.

Point... longhair.

Dobbs "Twenty" Longhair Pork Pie

Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (13).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (15).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (16).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (18).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (19).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (20).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (21).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (22).JPG
Dobbs 20 Pork Pie (23).JPG

IMG_3502.JPG
 
Messages
20,135
Location
Funkytown, USA
This is my first longhair hat and my first Pork Pie. I can’t get the brim of this thing sorted out. Do I need to buy a flange to fix it?


Dobbs began in New York in 1908 as the retail arm of Crofut & Knapp and later became one of the principal Hat Corporation of America brands.

The factory label, gold coach sweatband stamp and plastic-covered liner appear to date it to the 1950s or early 1960s. Let me know if I'm missing something. It is marked size 7 3/8 Long Oval. “Walkers” was presumably the retailer, but I can't find anything on that retail location. It has a "DOE" personalization but I ran into a similar dead end trying to come up with something interesting there. Not surprising; three initials aren't much to go on.

The guild circle emblem to the right of the Dobbs Twenty lable is in reference to Dobbs' version of the Cav edge. You really have to wonder why we lost the capacity to create this edge - it is such an interesting finish detail.

One thing I can say about longhair hats—you don’t have to worry about lint and other assorted nonsense showing up in your photos.

Point... longhair.

Dobbs "Twenty" Longhair Pork Pie

View attachment 808005 View attachment 808007 View attachment 808008 View attachment 808009 View attachment 808010 View attachment 808011 View attachment 808012 View attachment 808013 View attachment 808014
View attachment 808015

"Walker's" likely refers to Walker Brothers, a fairly high end men's shop that's been in business since 1903. They used to have quite a few locations in the 60s & 70s, including in malls and the like. I used to shop my local Walker's and still have a nice cashmere overcoat from there.

https://walkerbrothers.com/ at least I think this is the same business.
 
Messages
18,408
Location
Maryland
Anton Pichler Graz "Super", 56 cm / measure 57 cm, possibly late 1950s. The felt + finish, components and workmanship are all of high quality. The larger amount of Brim flange gives it an older look / form. It appears to be sample because I couldn't find any record of a Vechet Hüt Wien and the listed addresses + location make no sense.

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Open Crown

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Natural Light

55508449253_ba4892ed84_h.jpg


55508327246_3a4e1a0cf3_h.jpg
 
Last edited:

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
This is my first longhair hat and my first Pork Pie. I can’t get the brim of this thing sorted out. Do I need to buy a flange to fix it?


Dobbs began in New York in 1908 as the retail arm of Crofut & Knapp and later became one of the principal Hat Corporation of America brands.

The factory label, gold coach sweatband stamp and plastic-covered liner appear to date it to the 1950s or early 1960s. Let me know if I'm missing something. It is marked size 7 3/8 Long Oval. “Walkers” was presumably the retailer, but I can't find anything on that retail location. It has a "DOE" personalization but I ran into a similar dead end trying to come up with something interesting there. Not surprising; three initials aren't much to go on.

The guild circle emblem to the right of the Dobbs Twenty lable is in reference to Dobbs' version of the Cav edge. You really have to wonder why we lost the capacity to create this edge - it is such an interesting finish detail.

One thing I can say about longhair hats—you don’t have to worry about lint and other assorted nonsense showing up in your photos.

Point... longhair.

Dobbs "Twenty" Longhair Pork Pie

View attachment 808005 View attachment 808007 View attachment 808008 View attachment 808009 View attachment 808010 View attachment 808011 View attachment 808012 View attachment 808013 View attachment 808014
View attachment 808015
A flange would help but it will take on the shape of whatever one you use. I'd start with steam... Use an iron that lets you blast steam and use your hands to straighten it out on a flat surface or ironing board. I will often just iron the brim flat-ish with the iron and ironing board (put a pressing cloth between the iron and felt) to get back to a starting shape and then use my hands if it seems like that would be easier.

Mid/late 50's seems like a good guess to me, I feel like by the 60s they stopped including the blocking height.

What's the brim width out of curiosity?
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
A flange would help but it will take on the shape of whatever one you use. I'd start with steam... Use an iron that lets you blast steam and use your hands to straighten it out on a flat surface or ironing board. I will often just iron the brim flat-ish with the iron and ironing board (put a pressing cloth between the iron and felt) to get back to a starting shape and then use my hands if it seems like that would be easier.

Mid/late 50's seems like a good guess to me, I feel like by the 60s they stopped including the blocking height.

What's the brim width out of curiosity?
Hmmm…. Haven’t measured. I’ll let you know when I get home late tonight. Thanks
 

blewnote

One of the Regulars
Messages
282
Someone may correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the St Regis is associated with the Royal De Luxe quality, which is a step beneath the 3X. I have a couple St Regis homburgs and they are RD. I’ve never held a Stetson homburg in 3X, but I assume it’s a better felt without the fancy model name.

I don't think it is necessarily. Here's one @BobHufford posted (guessing a 40s hat) that is marked St. Regis and Royal Stetson.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...mburg-what-can-you-tell-me.31186/post-2981887

I can't really come up with a good hypothesis as to why some would have the model and others not. I have a couple thoughts, bad as they are though.

Maybe ones without the model have a replacement sweatband and the shop just stocked them with the quality designation and put them in a hat that corresponded with that?

Maybe the shops had to pay extra for each thing debossed on the sweatband and it just wasn't important to some to have the model name marked in the sweatband?

Anyone have any other ideas?
 

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