Yup, I've got a few hats that do exactly the same thing (and not the least of them) and it's heartbreaking because it just looks off. The hats just don't get worn because of it. The hat needs to get reblocked and reflanged to remedy the problem.Here’s a heartbreaker. NOS Champ Playboy clone in a beautiful green/gray featherweight felt. Very cool details. Picked it up for cheap and it arrived today. As I took it out of the box I thought to myself—I can’t believe how perfect this hat is. How is this possible? It’s never been worn.
Well—mystery explained. The tension of forming to a human head puts these ridiculous waves on either side of the brim.
Is there a solution to this problem? Would reblocking and flanging offer hope? Seems unlikely unless the block was my head.
If not—anyone here wear a 7 1/8 wide oval and want to give it a shot?
David
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A few new hats came in this week. Here's the first one.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.
Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.
Here's an interesting one. Bought this as a Morreton in blue. When it arrived it turned out to be full of surprises. First of all it turned out to be a camber style hat, somewhere in between a homburg and a fedora. These were quite popular it seems in France. Then it turned out to be not a size 56, but a size 55. The sweatband on it was almost rock hard, so stretch to be expected there. Another surprise was that it wasn't a Morreton at all, but a Mossant. Both the swetband, the label and the original crown patch underneath the liner all say Mossant. The Morrteon liner was sewn in later it seems. Disappointing? Not at all: Mossant is a better maker than Morreton and the felt is great. The colour is even better: called Bleu Oxford by Mossant. It so happened I still had a Mossant lying around on which the felt was beyond saving, so it donated the sweatband to this one. The pics show the original one though. Long story, but here's the hat (part I)
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Beautiful! Camber is a new style of hat to me. It looks great and I’d love to find one. It looks a bit like the Dalton John @moehawk recently posted.
Thank you, Brent. Camber is the name the Germans used for this style of hat, or at least Mayser did. Don't really know how widely the term was used, but fits perfectly for these in-between kind of hats.
The two Cambiaghi hats from the Severino hat shop arrived this week. Interesting to say the least. Let's start off with the grey one.
Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.
Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.
And here is the second one.
Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!
Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.
Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!
Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.
Some super finds, Stefan. Pity they're not a bit larger, but they are all interesting hats of various ages.And here is the second one.
Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!
Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.
I too would like to know when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix. The one I found last week has 9 on it.
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Awesome hat Stefan, but it is a pretender when it comes to crown height. 
This one is my favourite of your new finds, Stefan. Colour combo, shape, back bow, liner, sweat. What's not to like? Oh ja, the sizeAnd here is the second one.
Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!
Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.
Still a great hat though
Thanks, Steve. They are all interesting, but with so many hats, who needs a bland one?
Thanks, Bob. I'll not show it that picture; it might get ambitious!Awesome hat Stefan, but it is a pretender when it comes to crown height.
Head size: the doom of every hat collectorThis one is my favourite of your new finds, Stefan. Colour combo, shape, back bow, liner, sweat. What's not to like? Oh ja, the size
Still a great hat though
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FitzGerald Boston Special
Charcoal Grey Felt
Rakish Crown 4 5/8 from 3 3/8 back
2 1/2 brim with 1/8 bound edge
5/8 grosgrain mid ribbon with circular treatment
Took a chance on this hat from a much lesser known brand. This FitzGerald Boston “Special” is just that. A much darker charcoal grey felt than showed in the sellers photos. Really helps hide some of the mothing on the underside of the brim. Really love the very rakish crown and jaunty brim. The mid-ribbon features a circular sort of broach ribbon treatment. The sweat is directly stitched and I did not want to risk damage so I did not dig too far for manufacturing tags. I feel like it gives me a bit of 40s vibe… but don’t have any dating or company info. Very happy with this one.
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Some really fantastic new additions StefanAnd here is the second one.
Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!
Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.
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Very nice Joe!
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Thank you Bob.
Thank you, Joe. Very satisfying to find these.
I was eyeballing that one because I was intrigued by that ribbon and bow treatment. Don't think we've ever seen one like that before. Very nice! Glad you got it; a fine looking hat.
Nice catch, Joe. A very 40s look to it indeed. I really like the rake and that unusual ribbon.
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Thank you Stefan. I was very pleased and quite surprised that my modest bid was the winner. Even more so when I opened the box
Thank you Steve. A lot of what drew me to it… along with the unusual make and beautiful liner. I believe I have seen a similar ribbon treatment… not on anything I own… but I feel like I’ve seen something like this maybe on some older hats from Portis. They were doing some innovative stuff.
