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Granville

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
Location
Long Beach, NY
I'm new, still into trilbys and stingys. As a kid in the sixties, that's what dad was wearing, so I don't know if I'll ever grow out of it. This winter a short-brimmed fedora (hard shell wool) replaced my tweed cap. I guess I finally decided to grow up. And I picked up a soft (crushable), wider-brimmed beater for the rain. And a homburg for when I'm dressing. But this is my first vintage.

Brushed it off (dusty!), took a kneaded eraser to a spot under the brim and the spot disappeared. Threw it in the freezer for forty-eight. Took it out today.

Apparently Warwick is a lesser-known maker, so if anyone can cough up some details about, I'd appreciate it. An anonymous brand of the big hat company, or its own thing? There's no factory tag, no size tag, no writing under the sweat. The lining is tagged to the hat with four small pieces of tape. Wanting this to be my springtime hat, I carefully cut out the plastic tip. It might have been acetate. Thin and brittle-feeling (crinkly), it was slightly yellowed. But was that just the previous owner's brylcream? The leather sweat is black, embossed in gold: "Warwick Genuine Fur Felt".

I took a flyer on the seller's funky measurements (no size tag), and it justfits. The leather in such good condition I think it'll loosen up with wear and fit a little better. No moth damage, it's almost pristine; worn, but never someone's everyday hat. For less than the cost of a new wool hat with lining. I think I scored.

.

WarwickA.jpg WarwickB.jpg WarwickC.jpg WarwickLabel.jpg Warwick_inside.jpg
 

crawlinkingsnake

A-List Customer
Messages
419
Location
West Virginia
View attachment 401936


Wormser Premier Quality Boater

3 1/2 inch Crown

1 3/4 blue and black ribbon

2 3/4 front 2 1/2 sides brim



I’ve had a passing interest in adding a boater at some point if the right one came along. This one however happened to be included with the Hopkins Panama so it kinda came in the back door. I knew going in this boater was going to need a little work to flatten its brim as the sellers photos showed a small bend. However the sellers photos did not even come close to showing how badly bent and somewhat cracked the brim was. I’m not sure if it got worse in shipping or if was just a shortcoming of the photos… as I couldn’t quite represent the damage even in my own photographs. Either way the brim was bent almost to a 45 degree angle in spots and the straw layers were separated like a Pillsbury flaky biscuit.

So my first experience with a boater turns out is in a reshaping exercise. I figured since the brim was so badly bent and already starting to crack…. I needed either a tremendous amount of steam…. Or actual get it wet to soften up the brim. I chose the later and just quickly ran both sides of the brim under the faucet which softened up the straw some. I then placed the brim flat down on the counter and slowly pressed it into a more flat shape. I then took my iron on highest setting with steam… placed a piece of parchment paper In between the brim and the iron to avoid burning the straw and worked my way around the hat pressing and flattening all the way round. Steaming out as much of the moisture around the way as possible as well. When it was done I set it out in the sun flat down on the brim to dry. Flipping it occasionally at it firmed up.

I did end up with a little bit of discoloration which is not too surprising but all and all I am very happy with the results. It might could use another ironing and maybe a dab of glue here or there for the long haul. But considering I was already figuring worst case scenario was that I steal the ribbon and sweat for another project… I’m gonna deem this one a success! “Happy Boating”

View attachment 401937 View attachment 401938 View attachment 401939 View attachment 401940 View attachment 401941 View attachment 401942 View attachment 401943 View attachment 401944 View attachment 401945


Love it! There's nothing like a classic Boater. Even though the only one I own is way too small, I still like to just look at it.
 
Messages
12,021
Location
East of Los Angeles
I am now the happy owner of a non-western Stetson:

METKA9C.jpg


Stingy brim at 1-5/8" wide, and it's wonky (great technical term, eh?). Crown currently creased at 4" (give or take a little) in a Teardrop shape (mostly) with no pinch or side dents...for now.

The felt is thinner than that of any of my other hats, and the crown has apparently been creased so many times that it will no longer make a nicely curved Teardrop shape, as you can see here:

bhvDpk2.jpg


The liner is a "wine" color with a pale "champagne" gold at the top, and Stetson's logo printed onto it in mostly green. The only other markings on the hat are the "John B. Stetson Company" logo and "Royal De Luxe" logo on the working side of the thin black headband, and a six-digit number on the inner surface:

iC8rkXt.jpg


The hat fits me nicely and it's rather light in weight, so I should be able to get a lot of use out of it. Oh, I nearly forgot to mention the decorations:

UqOizCG.jpg


Normally those would have been gone almost as soon as I removed the hat from the carton it was shipped in, but on this hat I like 'em so I'll leave them as-is for now.

Edit 02/17/22: I thought the hat looked too boring without a pinch, so...

9ZCoSuq.jpg


Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Messages
13,672
Location
down south
I am now the happy owner of a non-western Stetson:

METKA9C.jpg


Stingy brim at 1-5/8" wide, and it's wonky (great technical term, eh?). Crown currently creased at 4" (give or take a little) in a Teardrop shape (mostly) with no pinch or side dents...for now.

The felt is thinner than that of any of my other hats, and the crown has apparently been creased so many times that it will no longer make a nicely curved Teardrop shape, as you can see here:

bhvDpk2.jpg


The liner is a "wine" color with a pale "champagne" gold at the top, and Stetson's logo printed onto it in mostly green. The only other markings on the hat are the "John B. Stetson Company" logo and "Royal De Luxe" logo on the working side of the thin black headband, and a six-digit number on the inner surface:

iC8rkXt.jpg


The hat fits me nicely and it's rather light in weight, so I should be able to get a lot of use out of it. Oh, I nearly forgot to mention the decorations:

UqOizCG.jpg


Normally those would have been gone almost as soon as I removed the hat from the carton it was shipped in, but on this hat I like 'em so I'll leave them as-is for now.
Nice catch, Al!! That's a great looking hat and you definitely rock it! Lots of character. I really dig the shape of it....kind of a pork pie look from the sides but cooler from the top.
 
Messages
12,021
Location
East of Los Angeles
Nice catch, Al!! That's a great looking hat and you definitely rock it! Lots of character. I really dig the shape of it....kind of a pork pie look from the sides but cooler from the top.
Ah, I knew you would sniff it out before long! Everything you mentioned is why I like it so much--it just has that "look". I did cave in today and add a pinch because it just looked boring without one, but it'll probably be a few days before I'll have the time to take new photos.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,876
Location
Denmark
C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 1920s/30s. Looks more dusty in the photos than it actually is.
Forgot to take measurements as I was hurrying out the door for a few days in Copenhagen. Couldn't resist taking some quick photos though.
At size 57 it's about a 1/4 size too small, so it pinches a bit. More wear might "stretch" it a tad.

Screenshot_20220212-170126_Facebook.jpg Screenshot_20220212-170047_Facebook.jpg 20220216_091359.jpg 20220216_141530.jpg 20220216_142158.jpg 20220216_142209.jpg
 
Messages
18,476
Location
Nederland
C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 1920s/30s. Looks more dusty in the photos than it actually is.
Forgot to take measurements as I was hurrying out the door for a few days in Copenhagen. Couldn't resist taking some quick photos though.
At size 57 it's about a 1/4 size too small, so it pinches a bit. More wear might "stretch" it a tad.

View attachment 402769 View attachment 402770 View attachment 402771 View attachment 402772 View attachment 402773 View attachment 402774
I see my question answered here: almost! Very nice hat and a great find.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,876
Location
Denmark
I see my question answered here: almost! Very nice hat and a great find.
Thanks, Stefan. I was really pleased when I spotted it on Facebook Market Place. It's in excellent condition.

It is a tight fit, but I'm hoping it will give some. Not often the way with Bowlers, but it only needs a slight nudge up.
 
Messages
11,730
C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 1920s/30s. Looks more dusty in the photos than it actually is.
Forgot to take measurements as I was hurrying out the door for a few days in Copenhagen. Couldn't resist taking some quick photos though.
At size 57 it's about a 1/4 size too small, so it pinches a bit. More wear might "stretch" it a tad.

View attachment 402769 View attachment 402770 View attachment 402771 View attachment 402772 View attachment 402773 View attachment 402774
What a great new Old hat Steve.
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,143
Location
Germany
From the big Nordic Christmas package -
so not really "new" to me, but not shown here yet:

Borsalino Homburg in the well-known dark blue "MIRTILLO" = "Blueberry"
open crown at 14.0 cm; centre dent at 11.5 cm; brim at 5.5 cm
"Imported by Emil Kjølner Tønsberg" - near Oslo/Norway
The "cerrated roll" type label (as I learned recently) dates this to the 60s

43052746fp.jpg

43052745vt.jpg

43052750ft.jpg

43052744be.jpg

43052743ig.jpg

43052742pd.jpg

43052741ak.jpg

43052739cf.jpg

43052740lz.jpg
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,143
Location
Germany
Also directly fallen into my hands from Panos Claus' sleigh
and not yet presented:

"Luxor" Fedora in nearly the same dark blue as the Borsa before
sold by "Aage Anderson S/A" in Sandefjord - 30 km south of Tønsberg
open crown at 13.0 cm; centre dent at 11.0 cm; bound brim at 6.5 cm
The brand says nothing to me so far, but Stefan/Steur once wrote
that he regularly stumbles across "Luxor".
The label is also written in Norwegian: So this time a Norwegian/nordic company
or yet again an Italian hat in disguise, as Daniele often pointed out before?
The coat of arms with the crown and the Italian colours could be a clue...
In any case, the hat is great, the felt is wonderful and the finish very nice, too.
I think it is probabely also (late 50s?) early/mid 60s as the Borsa before.

43052771wg.jpg

43052770va.jpg

43052760kp.jpg

43052769zf.jpg

43052758ol.jpg

43052754mi.jpg

43052752ei.jpg

43052751ae.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,143
Location
Germany
Following on from the hat addition posted on Friday
- this one is from the Christmas batch too:

It's a "Luxor" too: Homburg in a dark grey with dark grey binding
open crown at 13.5 cm; centre dent 11.5; curled brim 5-5.5
The felt is nice and soft but very stiff - feels like a Bowler/Melone
The Luxor logo is the same as before, but the paper label and
the overall finishing are different, which I think is due to
the manufacturing period - I guess 70s (?).

43061004ig.jpg

43060997qh.jpg

43061008xz.jpg

43061001je.jpg

43060993ly.jpg

43060986ip.jpg

43060984bh.jpg

43060983bs.jpg
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,143
Location
Germany
And the next hat from the Christmas box,
which is certainly directly related to the two shown before:

"Coronation" Fedora "Honour & Dignity"; medium grey with matching ribbon
open crown at 13.5 cm; 11.0 at centre crease; overwelt brim at 5.5
sold by "Johan Harbitz & Co."; "Torvalmenning 1" in Bergen/Norway
The shape and finish are very similar to the dark blue "Luxor" and
I think they date from the same time - probabely early 60s.

Both the logos on the sweats and the crests on the peak of the lining
- dark blue "Luxor" and and medium grey "Coronation" - are very similar
or downright the same. In addition, the paper label of the "Luxor" Homburg
and the "Coronation" Fedora have the same make.
Therefore, I think that all three hats are from the same "Luxor-Coronation" manufacturer!

43061036uj.jpg

43061033lt.jpg

43061037sk.jpg

43061010cm.jpg

43061030lq.jpg

43061027oq.jpg

43068105bh.jpg

43068104yc.jpg

43061013uq.jpg


"Johan Harbitz & Co." at Torvalmenning 1 in Bergen:
the old and the new building at the same corner of the street
43068048wa.jpg

43068047xb.jpg
 
Messages
18,476
Location
Nederland
And the next hat from the Christmas box,
which is certainly directly related to the two shown before:

"Coronation" Fedora "Honour & Dignity"; medium grey with matching ribbon
open crown at 13.5 cm; 11.0 at centre crease; overwelt brim at 5.5
sold by "Johan Harbitz & Co."; "Torvalmenning 1" in Bergen/Norway
The shape and finish are very similar to the dark blue "Luxor" and
I think they date from the same time - probabely early 60s.

Both the logos on the sweats and the crests on the peak of the lining
- dark blue "Luxor" and and medium grey "Coronation" - are very similar
or downright the same. In addition, the paper label of the "Luxor" Homburg
and the "Coronation" Fedora have the same make.
Therefore, I think that all three hats are from the same "Luxor-Coronation" manufacturer!

43061036uj.jpg

43061033lt.jpg

43061037sk.jpg

43061010cm.jpg

43061030lq.jpg

43061027oq.jpg

43068105bh.jpg

43068104yc.jpg

43061013uq.jpg


"Johan Harbitz & Co." at Torvalmenning 1 in Bergen:
the old and the new building at the same corner of the street
43068048wa.jpg

43068047xb.jpg
Some really nice hats that the reindeer dropped off there, Matt. I have a feeling "Luxor" might be one of those brand names, like "windsor" that was used by different manufacturers, maybe even at the same time.
I have seen the exact same label on another hat from Scandinavia: this King Felton hat.
king felton_02.jpg
king felton_05.jpg
king felton_10.jpg
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,143
Location
Germany
Super observation, Stefan! Indeed, not only the paper label is identical, but also the look - especially the ribbon bow is exactly the same as on the blue "Luxor" and also on the "Coronation". At least I would think so! Do you have any idea which factory or "which country" is behind your "Felton"? Is it really Scandinavian?

By the way: Wasn't there a thread about Scandinavian hats? Somehow I can't find it anymore. I had it in mind when I wanted to sort out the "Danfelt" homburg, but Daniele revealed it to be an Italian hat in Danish disguise.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,876
Location
Denmark
Super observation, Stefan! Indeed, not only the paper label is identical, but also the look - especially the ribbon bow is exactly the same as on the blue "Luxor" and also on the "Coronation". At least I would think so! Do you have any idea which factory or "which country" is behind your "Felton"? Is it really Scandinavian?

By the way: Wasn't there a thread about Scandinavian hats? Somehow I can't find it anymore. I had it in mind when I wanted to sort out the "Danfelt" homburg, but Daniele revealed it to be an Italian hat in Danish disguise.
Some nice "Luxor" hats Santa brought you, Matt.
I don't think there is one, but there ought to be a Scandivavian Hats / Hatmakers thread.
 
Messages
18,476
Location
Nederland
Super observation, Stefan! Indeed, not only the paper label is identical, but also the look - especially the ribbon bow is exactly the same as on the blue "Luxor" and also on the "Coronation". At least I would think so! Do you have any idea which factory or "which country" is behind your "Felton"? Is it really Scandinavian?

By the way: Wasn't there a thread about Scandinavian hats? Somehow I can't find it anymore. I had it in mind when I wanted to sort out the "Danfelt" homburg, but Daniele revealed it to be an Italian hat in Danish disguise.
I wonder if the hats are European in origin. When I looked into the King Felton hat I found that the retailer Alf W Goodwin was born in 1891 as Alf Thoresen and changed his name to Goodwin when he emigrated to the US. He returned to Norway in 1920 but kept the name. It could well be that he set up a connection for importing hats from the US. The King Felton hat and the Luxor hats you showed all have a straight liner seam, which is a feature of most American hats, while European made hats usually have the liner seam at an angle. It's very speculative and there are exceptions of course, but it's all I've got.
 

ScionPI2005

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,335
Location
Seattle, Washington
I am now the happy owner of a non-western Stetson:

METKA9C.jpg


Stingy brim at 1-5/8" wide, and it's wonky (great technical term, eh?). Crown currently creased at 4" (give or take a little) in a Teardrop shape (mostly) with no pinch or side dents...for now.

The felt is thinner than that of any of my other hats, and the crown has apparently been creased so many times that it will no longer make a nicely curved Teardrop shape, as you can see here:

bhvDpk2.jpg


The liner is a "wine" color with a pale "champagne" gold at the top, and Stetson's logo printed onto it in mostly green. The only other markings on the hat are the "John B. Stetson Company" logo and "Royal De Luxe" logo on the working side of the thin black headband, and a six-digit number on the inner surface:

iC8rkXt.jpg


The hat fits me nicely and it's rather light in weight, so I should be able to get a lot of use out of it. Oh, I nearly forgot to mention the decorations:

UqOizCG.jpg


Normally those would have been gone almost as soon as I removed the hat from the carton it was shipped in, but on this hat I like 'em so I'll leave them as-is for now.

Edit 02/17/22: I thought the hat looked too boring without a pinch, so...

9ZCoSuq.jpg


Thoughts?
I love it! You wear it well. It has a lot of character!
 

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