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[Purplesage]

frank H. Lee Leeston Homburg with Unique Metal Button Sweatband

Navy Blue Frank H. Lee "Leeston" soft homburg I just picked up. With the exception of the liner being a bit soiled, the hat is in excellent condition. The leather sweatband is still very soft and pliable, just needs to be cleaned up a bit. I was surprised when I was checking behind the sweatband for the manufacturers tag and found there are metal buttons sewn to the crown which appear to anchor the sweatband to the hat, there are about five total. I've read about this particular feature on one of the forum threads but I can't recall which one. From what I understand this was not a particular feature that lasted that long. I think Brad Bowers had posted a comment about it! I'm not sure that this was a feature unique to Lee hats or it was also used by other hat makers. The Brim is approximately 2 1/8" with a curled grosgrain bound edge. The crown is approx 5 1/2" with a 2" grosgrain ribbon. There is no "Depth" listed on the manufactures tag behind the sweatband, just Block 2 and Size. I couldn't find a Union Label attached anywhere. I'm guessing the hat is from the 20s or 30s but if anyone here can give be a more precise date when the hat was made it would be appreciated. It's a little snug for a 7 1/8 but you never can tell with vintage hats.

 

[ManofKent]

Purplesage - that's a lovely looking Homburg

 

[alanfgag]

more information here.

 

[Monte]

That navy blue is so rich looking. I'd probably wear that more than my black hommy.
Anyone want to make an estimation of my boater's age. It seems rather sturdy and well built than I would have thought for a straw. Its has a quality darker brown sweat. The straw has a tight weave just around the sweat on the brim. The brim is triple layered and really rigid. My estimation would be '40s or maybe pre '40s since the boater didn't seem to stay in fashion as long as the felts. Please correct me as usual.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Hi Monte,

Your hat is actually a Boater, or more technically accurate, a Sennit Straw, not a Porkpie. They've been around since the nineteenth century, and were in production in the United States until sometime in the 1950s or so. At that point, I think most manufacturers imported their Boaters from Italy. I don't know enough about Portis hats, but I would guess it's 1940s or 1950s. I'd also hazard a guess that the hatband might be a much later addition, as it doesn't have the finish of what we typically see on factory hats, colors notwithstanding.

Brad

 

[Monte]

Yes, thank you Brad. I made a bad coffee and pie joke earlier. I have an old Portis Sterling from my wife's Grandfather. I assumed the hat was from the '50s and the logo is the big oval shaped one with the beaver on the bottom. The sweat is wide with Swansback water repellent "cushion band" embossed type. Is this inherited hat '50s like I originally thought?

 

[Monte]

 

[Monte]

Seems the easy flex comfort fit designation on the Portis boater's sweat is differing technology from felt "Swansback" Portis sweat. Anyway, Thanks for the weigh in.

 

[Monte]

...and the ribbon being added later is a great observation. It was probably made to look more old fashioned. ....Ironic since the hat is old. I would maybe wear it if it had a nice navy blue ribbon or blue and white, etc. Brad's the authority and it's easy to see why.

 

[Purplesage]

Thanks Alan. I thought I had read about this type of sweatband before, "Carter Detachable Sweatband." That also helps date the hat since the patent was 1934.

 

[mayserwegener]

Lembert Reiner Haarfilz, probably mid 1950s. Very nice medium weight felt on this one. Crown tip patch is missing.

 

[ManofKent]

Nice Lembert Steve - mine's quite a heavy weight felt. We don't see many Lembert dress hats.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! Yes mostly see Trachten style Lemberts. The felt has a very nice feel / look. I believe Lembert made their own felt at this time (different location). Unfortunately it's way too small. The Seller listed as 60cm but ended up being around 55cm.

 

[splintercellsz]

Very nice!

 

[Retro Spectator]

It's not vintage, but it's basically a reproduction type hat. It's made by Scala.

 

[hatsRme]

Good looking hat, Retro Spec!

 

[ManofKent]

Retrospec - it looks good

 

[Purplesage]

Rue De La Paix Fedora

I've seen this hat on the lounge before on a thread devoted to obscure hat brands. In any case, this is the first Rue De La Paix fedora I've come across. The hat is gray with a 2 5/8" brim with rose color grosgrain binding and a 5 1/2" open crown which is wrapped in a 1 5/8" black grosgrain ribbon with wind trolley. There is no onion skin or plastic cover on the liner and it does not appear to have ever had one. The leather sweatband is unreeded. I'm guessing this one is circa 40s!

 

[Purplesage]

Very nice Lembert. Is the color dark blue or black. Doesn't really matter, it's a nice hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! It's black so just a photo issue. Great find with the Rue De La Paix!