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[Blare]

This is a very cool hat from a brand I had never heard of before @jeffgarf brought it to my attention.

It’s a Portis “Crest” in medium brown, size 7 3/8, with a “Swan’s Down Finish” liner and “Swansback Water Repellent Cushion Band” sweatband treatment. The retailer was Wagner Bros. in Ellinwood, Kansas.

The Portis Brothers Hat Co. was founded in Chicago in 1914 by five brothers: Isadore, Arnold, Theodore, Lyon, and Henry. Drawing on their previous experience in the hat business, they built the company around an unusually cooperative management structure—“All for one, one for all.” For more than 25 years, the five brothers reportedly drew identical salaries and held equal votes in company decisions.

With headquarters in Chicago and a major plant in Michigan City, Indiana, Portis eventually became one of the larger American hat manufacturers, ranking around tenth nationally and producing roughly a million hats a year at its peak. The company remained independent until the late 1960s, when Portis was acquired by Stevens Hats of St. Joseph, Missouri.

The Crest was one of Portis’ named lines. Some surviving examples have the same pugaree-like twisted ribbon treatment, with a mother-of-pearl ring applied over the crossover. Mine has the pugaree treatment without the ring.

The hat still has its United Hatters union label under the sweat, along with factory/lot number 218039. I haven’t found a reliable Portis numbering system that lets me decode that into a date.

Based on the Crest designation, Swan’s Down/Swansback branding, union label, retailer history, and the overall proportions, I’d put it broadly in the late 1940s through the 1950s. I’d be interested to hear what the Portis experts think.

The felt is probably my favorite part. “Swan’s Down” appears to have been Portis’ name for this particularly soft, smooth finish, and this one really does have a lovely hand to it. Tall crown, generous bound brim, narrow ribbon, and very clean period proportions.

Also worth noting that “Swan’s Down Finish” and “Swansback Water Repellent” are two different Portis terms on the same hat—the former referring to the felt finish, the latter to the water-repellent treatment/cushion-band system.

Very cool hat, and a lot of fun to wear.

Thanks, Jeff.

Portis “Crest”
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Portis made some fine fashion forward hats. Very nice.

 

[Blare]

Dobesch Wien "PRÄSIDENT", 57 CM, possibly 1970s. The Blue Felt has a nice Smooth Finish. It's Machined Blocked but has a interesting Form for being later. Also has well executed Box Bow. It was sold out of the German Market. I need to check into how long Dobesch Wien lasted.

Open Crown

Natural Light

Beautiful hat and a gorgeous liner.

 

[Frunobulax]

This is a very cool hat from a brand I had never heard of before @jeffgarf brought it to my attention.

It’s a Portis “Crest” in medium brown, size 7 3/8, with a “Swan’s Down Finish” liner and “Swansback Water Repellent Cushion Band” sweatband treatment. The retailer was Wagner Bros. in Ellinwood, Kansas.

The Portis Brothers Hat Co. was founded in Chicago in 1914 by five brothers: Isadore, Arnold, Theodore, Lyon, and Henry. Drawing on their previous experience in the hat business, they built the company around an unusually cooperative management structure—“All for one, one for all.” For more than 25 years, the five brothers reportedly drew identical salaries and held equal votes in company decisions.

With headquarters in Chicago and a major plant in Michigan City, Indiana, Portis eventually became one of the larger American hat manufacturers, ranking around tenth nationally and producing roughly a million hats a year at its peak. The company remained independent until the late 1960s, when Portis was acquired by Stevens Hats of St. Joseph, Missouri.

The Crest was one of Portis’ named lines. Some surviving examples have the same pugaree-like twisted ribbon treatment, with a mother-of-pearl ring applied over the crossover. Mine has the pugaree treatment without the ring.

The hat still has its United Hatters union label under the sweat, along with factory/lot number 218039. I haven’t found a reliable Portis numbering system that lets me decode that into a date.

Based on the Crest designation, Swan’s Down/Swansback branding, union label, retailer history, and the overall proportions, I’d put it broadly in the late 1940s through the 1950s. I’d be interested to hear what the Portis experts think.

The felt is probably my favorite part. “Swan’s Down” appears to have been Portis’ name for this particularly soft, smooth finish, and this one really does have a lovely hand to it. Tall crown, generous bound brim, narrow ribbon, and very clean period proportions.

Also worth noting that “Swan’s Down Finish” and “Swansback Water Repellent” are two different Portis terms on the same hat—the former referring to the felt finish, the latter to the water-repellent treatment/cushion-band system.

Very cool hat, and a lot of fun to wear.

Thanks, Jeff.

Portis “Crest”
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https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/portis-path.18294/

 

[blewnote]

This is a very cool hat from a brand I had never heard of before @jeffgarf brought it to my attention.

It’s a Portis “Crest” in medium brown, size 7 3/8, with a “Swan’s Down Finish” liner and “Swansback Water Repellent Cushion Band” sweatband treatment. The retailer was Wagner Bros. in Ellinwood, Kansas.

The Portis Brothers Hat Co. was founded in Chicago in 1914 by five brothers: Isadore, Arnold, Theodore, Lyon, and Henry. Drawing on their previous experience in the hat business, they built the company around an unusually cooperative management structure—“All for one, one for all.” For more than 25 years, the five brothers reportedly drew identical salaries and held equal votes in company decisions.

With headquarters in Chicago and a major plant in Michigan City, Indiana, Portis eventually became one of the larger American hat manufacturers, ranking around tenth nationally and producing roughly a million hats a year at its peak. The company remained independent until the late 1960s, when Portis was acquired by Stevens Hats of St. Joseph, Missouri.

The Crest was one of Portis’ named lines. Some surviving examples have the same pugaree-like twisted ribbon treatment, with a mother-of-pearl ring applied over the crossover. Mine has the pugaree treatment without the ring.

The hat still has its United Hatters union label under the sweat, along with factory/lot number 218039. I haven’t found a reliable Portis numbering system that lets me decode that into a date.

Based on the Crest designation, Swan’s Down/Swansback branding, union label, retailer history, and the overall proportions, I’d put it broadly in the late 1940s through the 1950s. I’d be interested to hear what the Portis experts think.

The felt is probably my favorite part. “Swan’s Down” appears to have been Portis’ name for this particularly soft, smooth finish, and this one really does have a lovely hand to it. Tall crown, generous bound brim, narrow ribbon, and very clean period proportions.

Also worth noting that “Swan’s Down Finish” and “Swansback Water Repellent” are two different Portis terms on the same hat—the former referring to the felt finish, the latter to the water-repellent treatment/cushion-band system.

Very cool hat, and a lot of fun to wear.

Thanks, Jeff.

Portis “Crest”
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Portis made some great hats. They were a mid-tier brand, but the two I have are fantastic. Nice get!

 

[Pellie]

I bought this modern Tonak because of it's color and model. The color turned out to be ice grey/blue. Really like that. It's brand new and it was a bargain. It also has great proportions for a modern hat, so what's not to like?

Bought it as this color......

 

[Judgmentalist]

This hat isn't technically "new" but it feels new, so here we go.

I got this little Aetna Homburg in some time ago, but the sweatband turned out to be basically useless, among other things. So I asked @HatsBySam if he would be kind enough to restore it for me, which he did, and here are the results.

Aetna “The Insured Hat” by Lee, made by Lee in Danbury, Connecticut, and dating to the early 1940s. Period advertising documents Aetna as a Lee line by 1941, and a 1942 ad identifies it explicitly as “The Insured Hat … by Lee.”

It was originally sold by Jos. Polczynski, 9307 Jos. Campau, near Holbrook, Hamtramck, Michigan.

When I got it, the sweatband was almost completely detached. During the restoration, pieces of the original sweatband were retained along with the surviving original liner and exterior trim.

Sam and I also collaborated on the new shape. It came to me with a sort of diamond-fedora crease, and we reshaped it into a center dent with a nice short pinch.

I think it came back beautifully.

Aetna Homburg - restored by Hats By Sam in 2026 - thanks Sam.

 

[Rmccamey]

That is a beautiful color, Marcel.

I bought this modern Tonak because of it's color and model. The color turned out to be ice grey/blue. Really like that. It's brand new and it was a bargain. It also has great proportions for a modern hat, so what's not to like?
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Bought it as this color......
View attachment 812180

 

[Pellie]

That is a beautiful color, Marcel.

Thanks Randy.

 

[Judgmentalist]

I believe this Knox Superfine Homburg dates to the early 1950s. The embroidered wind trolley button is an interesting detail that I hadn’t seen before.

This one does not appear to have ever been altered. It is tagged 7 1/4, yet fits me perfectly at 7 3/8. I’m always surprised when vintage sizing works out in that direction.

Knox Superfine Homburg

 

[mayserwegener]

Beautiful hat and a gorgeous liner.

Joe, Thanks!

 

[Pellie]

Collins Wien Luxus in a very attractive brown color. Seller said it was a size M and no label. I found the label ...... yes.....it has size 57 on it, but it fits my 58,5 size hat perfectly. Lucky me. The felt is so soft and reminds me of chamois. Maybe it is, i don't know. I think it's a rare find.

 

[hambone71]

Collins Wien Luxus in a very attractive brown color. Seller said it was a size M and no label. I found the label ...... yes.....it has size 57 on it, but it fits my 58,5 size hat perfectly. Lucky me. The felt is so soft and reminds me of chamois. Maybe it is, i don't know. I think it's a rare find.
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Great looking hat, Marcel! Suits you well!

 

[hambone71]

I recently picked up this lightweight Borsalino from an inactive Lounger friend of mine. My first ever Borsa. Never even touched one before this. The felt is in wonderful condition. A slight repair had been made in the sweatband stitching but has a strong hold. I love the color combo here, as it’s suits my preferences and environment perfectly. This one will be in my regular rotation this Fall/Winter.

Pardon my traditional, 20 yr old, worn out, ratty old gameday sweatshirt for brisk Fall Saturday mornings.

 

[Pellie]

Great looking hat, Marcel! Suits you well!

Thanks Phil. Your Borsalino is also a fine looking hat!

 

[Blare]

I recently picked up this lightweight Borsalino from an inactive Lounger friend of mine. My first ever Borsa. Never even touched one before this. The felt is in wonderful condition. A slight repair had been made in the sweatband stitching but has a strong hold. I love the color combo here, as it’s suits my preferences and environment perfectly. This one will be in my regular rotation this Fall/Winter.

Pardon my traditional, 20 yr old, worn out, ratty old gameday sweatshirt for brisk Fall Saturday mornings. View attachment 812660 View attachment 812661 View attachment 812662 View attachment 812663 View attachment 812664 View attachment 812665 View attachment 812666

Beautiful hat, Phil. I do love that color combination. Is that a Gorsagu?

 

[Zombie_61]

I recently picked up this lightweight Borsalino from an inactive Lounger friend of mine...Pardon my traditional, 20 yr old, worn out, ratty old gameday sweatshirt for brisk Fall Saturday mornings. View attachment 812660

I like the hat, and I like the sweatshirt! Nicely done!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

At the end of September I'm back. Too hot summer to deal with hats
I’ve accumulated quite a few hats that arrived between late spring and summer.
I had just stashed them in a closet, with no desire to photograph them—it was simply too hot in Italy this summer to handle felt hats.
Today, with the weather being more than decent, I started hanging them on the wisteria for their official portraits.
As has been my preference for years, I chose "unusual" hats or felt styles that appealed to my taste.

First, a French hat called "Alfreda." Size is 60 cm or 7 1/2 in US

As you can see, it is a short-nap velour in a midnight-blue/black shade.

The felt is quite stiff.
Then, an Italian 60 cm. or 7 1/2 in US "Barbisio" hat—almost certainly produced by Cappellificio Cervo, which acquired the brand name

No trademark on the lining, but on the sweatband

It is a floppy bowler. I tried shaping it like a Homburg, but in my opinion, the result isn't particularly attractive.

It is brown, a color that is difficult to capture accurately in photos.
I favored fur-finish felts, even though the 38–39°C heat made handling them feel even hotter.
The problem is, neither of them actually fits my head. If you like one or both let me know
This is the first lot. More to come

 

[hambone71]

I like the hat, and I like the sweatshirt! Nicely done!

Thank you, Al! Much appreciated!

 

[skwerl]

Sent this one to @HatsBySam to have it converted into a Raiders Turn. He did a lovely job.

Here is a link where I posted the rest of the photos if anybody is interested. Thanks Sam.

Thread 'Wonderful work by HatsbySam'
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/wonderful-work-by-hatsbysam.121004/

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Hey Josh , Sharp.
...Serle

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Two hats sharing several characteristics: they are Italian, the same size (58 cm, or 5 1/2), and from the same era (about a century ago).
One is from a well-known brand, while the other is likely the work of an individual hatter.

The Benetti-Ferrara is appealing as a long-hair felt hat—apparently made in Italy.

The label states this; while I have some doubts about the origin of the felt itself,

the claim is plausible given the suppliers involved.

It is a style frequently seen in Central European versions, though less common among French hatters.

It features stunning felt and a vintage ribbon.

The Borsalino, with its pleated ribbon, is among the finest I have found in recent years;

its design is crisp and fluid, possessing a rare elegance.

It is lightweight and more finely crafted than its contemporary counterpart.


Here you can see the lining and the label. Maybe the name of the hat is "Sannisida"
As always, the question remains whether they have retained their original size or shrunk over time.
It is rare to find two such distinct examples.
They aren't my size, so if anyone is interested, we can talk about it.