Pocketwatches

[M Hatman]

But, if the small fifth pocket on jeans was indeed invented for pocketwatches, why it's called "coin pocket", in general?
Since I got my pocketwatch, I realized, that the pocket is perfect for the pocketwatch.

I did not know that it was. Men's trousers have had watch pockets since there modern design for the last 200 years........MANY of my modern suit pants also have a watch pocket. The ONLY pants pocket I have ever heard referred to as a change pocket is the one attached to the lower INSIDE right pants pocket. My modern suits have those too..........
M

 

[HanauMan]

 

[Chris McCollum]

Pocket Watches

As of late i've become enamored with old gold-filled pocket watches. I seem to remember hearing Elgin as a prominent brand. Do y'all have any recommendations? Things/prices to watch for on eBay?

Thanks,
Josh

One thing I've read in multiple different places from those in the know is that whatever brand you land on don't be afraid to buy from overseas.....BUT DO NOT BUY FROM UKRAINE. They've got a crazy high percentage of frauds, phonies, and flat out theft of your money. Just my 2 cents.

Another thing I love looking at are the railroad quality and/or watches that are tuned to 6 positions so that regardless of how it sits in your pocket or moves around, it'll be able to keep really good time. Not a requirement for me, but I appreciate old pocket watches that keep really accurate time.

 

[Trenchfriend]

And THAT'S just the great thing on pocketwatches:

You don't got the question of the strap-material!!

Very relaxing.

 

[M Hatman]

Another thing I love looking at are the railroad quality and/or watches that are tuned to 6 positions so that regardless of how it sits in your pocket or moves around, it'll be able to keep really good time. Not a requirement for me, but I appreciate old pocket watches that keep really accurate time.

I agree completely on this. I only have one railroad grade Pocket Watch, but really love all the others just as much. Such rich history with the old pocket watches!! Interestingly enough, I have TWO 23 jewel 6 position adjusted Bulova wrist watches from the early 50's.....one is dated 55 the other I think (if i remember correctly) is from 53.
M

 

[Shangas]

My latest pocket ticker: 1927 Hamilton 992 railroad chronometer in salesman's display case.

Needs servicing + new rear-window glass, but is otherwise in working order and great condition...

 

[viclip]

Ah yes, the classic American railroad-grade pocket watch, great find Shangas.

Your Hamilton 992 does indeed look to be in great shape, the salesman display case really does it justice. That awesome "box car" dial has big bold Arabic numerals that not even a half-blind railway man could mis-read!

After you have it serviced, I'd be interested to know whether your timepiece still maintains railway grade time of no more than 30 seconds per week variance.

Well that was the generally accepted American/Canadian requirement for use on the railways. A while back I inquired from someone from Oz, maybe it was you, as to what if any railway time standards were adhered to by your railway companies. Has any further info surfaced in the interim?

 

[Woodtroll]

I really enjoy seeing everyone's watches on this thread, and have always wanted one of my own. I don't want anything rare or fancy, but would like to have a reliable, functional example of a working man's pocketwatch, and I don't really know much about them except for looking at many different ones on eBay over the years. My only real "must" is that I want a cover/lid over the face for protection.

Can someone here suggest some reliable, reasonably priced (i.e., common) models to look for, maybe some things to watch out for, sources other than eBay, etc.? Or is there a resource where I might learn the basics of such things? I don't want to get bogged down in "The Pocketwatch Lounge", if there is such a thing, because I don't need to know all the details of every model to find one functional watch that suits me, and I don't need to develop another hobby!

Thanks for any suggestions you might offer.

 

[Trenchfriend]

@Woodtroll
I just can tell you, that I'm pleased with my basic quartz pocketwatch with roman numbers from german (Karstadt) storebrand. Wasn't cheap, but of course reasonable priced and it seems to be a fine quartz movement. After many weeks just one and a half second derivation.

Maybe, you can find such a solid basic one anywhere in your area. Many similar looking on the net, but who knows, which are the solid ones??

 

[Woodtroll]

@Woodtroll
I just can tell you, that I'm pleased with my basic quartz pocketwatch with roman numbers from german (Karstadt) storebrand. Wasn't cheap, but of course reasonable priced and it seems to be a fine quartz movement. After many weeks just one and a half second derivation.

Maybe, you can find such a solid basic one anywhere in your area. Many similar looking on the net, but who knows, which are the solid ones??

Many thanks, Tfriend! You're right, I don't expect "reasonably priced" to be "cheap" in this case; I just want to keep from overpaying for frills I don't need, and would rather spend the money on function instead of paying a premium just because it's a rare or highly-sought-after example. Yes, indeed, my question is, "which are the solid ones" and how do I tell?

Take care!
Regan

 

[viclip]

I really enjoy seeing everyone's watches on this thread, and have always wanted one of my own. I don't want anything rare or fancy, but would like to have a reliable, functional example of a working man's pocketwatch, and I don't really know much about them except for looking at many different ones on eBay over the years. My only real "must" is that I want a cover/lid over the face for protection.

Can someone here suggest some reliable, reasonably priced (i.e., common) models to look for, maybe some things to watch out for, sources other than eBay, etc.? Or is there a resource where I might learn the basics of such things? I don't want to get bogged down in "The Pocketwatch Lounge", if there is such a thing, because I don't need to know all the details of every model to find one functional watch that suits me, and I don't need to develop another hobby!

Thanks for any suggestions you might offer.

I think you'll need to narrow down your parameters a bit.

To begin with, there's the great divide between mechanical pocket watches which must be wound up every day or so, on the one hand, & battery powered ones on the other hand which will run for about a year between battery replacments. The battery ones are more accurate time keepers, if that's your cup of tea.

If it's the mechanical sort that interest you, i.e. those commonly made between about 1850 & 1970, then you have the broad choice between American pocket watches (including railroad grade watches) & European ones (mainly English, Swiss, French, German). Then we'd need to address the winding (key vs. stem) & the setting (key vs. stem vs. pin vs. lever) mechanisms as well as the size of the watch you'd like.

 

[Woodtroll]

Viclip, thanks for your interest and your reply! Good questions! There is a lot that I don't know, and I hate to ask elementary-level questions here that may bore others who know much more. But if y'all are game...

I'd like to concentrate on American-made mechanical watches. I know that Hamilton and Elgin are the big two, I guess, but I don't know a thing about the model numbers or grades. I already have two modern-made quartz battery pocket watches, but I'm looking for something older and with some history to it. I'd prefer stem-wind rather than fooling with a key, and I'm afraid I don't know all the different types of settings. I do know I prefer the "hunter" style (I think it is called) with the front cover, and could see how the hinged back cover would also be handy for maintenance and cleaning, but I'm afraid I don''t know the proper terminology for such. As far as size, what would be typical for, say, 1900-1940 or so? I don't want a pancake to carry around, but don't want a lady's wristwatch either.

Thank you again,
Regan

 

[viclip]

Viclip, thanks for your interest and your reply! Good questions! There is a lot that I don't know, and I hate to ask elementary-level questions here that may bore others who know much more. But if y'all are game...

I'd like to concentrate on American-made mechanical watches. I know that Hamilton and Elgin are the big two, I guess, but I don't know a thing about the model numbers or grades. I already have two modern-made quartz battery pocket watches, but I'm looking for something older and with some history to it. I'd prefer stem-wind rather than fooling with a key, and I'm afraid I don't know all the different types of settings. I do know I prefer the "hunter" style (I think it is called) with the front cover, and could see how the hinged back cover would also be handy for maintenance and cleaning, but I'm afraid I don''t know the proper terminology for such. As far as size, what would be typical for, say, 1900-1940 or so? I don't want a pancake to carry around, but don't want a lady's wristwatch either.

Thank you again,
Regan

I'd add Waltham as well as Illinois to your list of biggies. Also don't short change yourself, in as much as Hampden, Rockford, Seth Thomas & South Bend also played in the big leagues & turned out some wonderful mechanical pocket watches. And keep Ball in mind. Although Ball didn't manufacture watches per se, they did contract with the powerhouses for the provision of high grade movements which Ball finalized & timed; Ball is intimately connected with the development & supply of railroad grade pocket watches.

In terms of watch sizes sported by men, until about 1900 the 18-size ruled the roost. Hunting cases weren't terribly popular after about 1900. By World War I say, the 16-size open-faced pocket watch had pretty well ousted the 18s (whether in hunting or open face configuration) in terms of popularity & manufacturers were cutting back on if not eliminating the 18s. With the advent of the Roaring Twenties, the 12-size became quite popular, with the thinner versions thereof being considered "gentlemen's watches"; but until the Second World War the 16s remained the work horse size, especially for railway time service purposes.

So a happy medium might be the 16s, these were available in hunting configuration as is your preference, & they're mostly stem wind. Unless you decide to acquire a classic railway watch, I'd recommend the stem setting mechanism (lever setting is a pain in the neck & possibly the pocket book due to broken crystals, pin setting isn't very common among American watches). But do realize that until roughly the 1920s the watch companies sold their movements uncased ~ it was up to the end user in consultation with the retailer, to pick out a case in terms of its design features as well as its composition (brass, nickel, silver, gold-filled, solid gold, platinum); in other words, the same identical movement will be found in a thousand different cases with pricing all over the map!

Speaking of pricing, I think that at this juncture we need to have some indication of price range from you ...

 

[Woodtroll]

Wow, thank you for the information! I've learned more from your last post than I have searching the internet intermittently for a few months on my own.

Good point about the cases - I did not know that they were commonly sold separately, but that explains why you see the works up for sale by themselves so often.

The 16-18 size sounds about right; until you explained a little bit about the size I didn't even know what to look for. It looks like those two are both about 1-3/4" in diameter, which is about the size of the two battery watches I have.

A couple more preferences: I prefer the Arabic numerals over the Roman numerals, but Roman would not be a deal-breaker. I strongly prefer gold-colored cases (brass or gold-filled, since I can't afford solid gold!). And yes, I would prefer the stem setting feature; I had a few cheaper mechanical pocket watches as a kid (Westclox, maybe?) that wound and set from the stem, so that would be familiar to me.

This one attracts me, except for the Roman numerals, but I have no idea what the details about the movement, etc. means. It is a 16 size:

https://www.pmtime.com/product/PM2696.html

It seems to be in decent shape, functional, and I don't guess the price is out of line?

As far as my cost range, there again I don't know what I don't know. Which leads me to being here bugging y'all! I don't want to pay an outrageous price, but I don't know what a realistic price for a common, mechanically sound watch would be. I don't care if the watch has some honest wear, but don't want a cracked or crazed bezel, damaged face, etc. I'm in no hurry, so I can save a little more if need be, but I figured something relatively nice but not fancy or rare could be had for $200-$400 or so? If it's going to run much over $450-$500 then I'm probably just going to re-evaluate my "need".

Thank you again for the help!
Regan

 

[viclip]

Wow, thank you for the information! I've learned more from your last post than I have searching the internet intermittently for a few months on my own.

Good point about the cases - I did not know that they were commonly sold separately, but that explains why you see the works up for sale by themselves so often.

The 16-18 size sounds about right; until you explained a little bit about the size I didn't even know what to look for. It looks like those two are both about 1-3/4" in diameter, which is about the size of the two battery watches I have.

A couple more preferences: I prefer the Arabic numerals over the Roman numerals, but Roman would not be a deal-breaker. I strongly prefer gold-colored cases (brass or gold-filled, since I can't afford solid gold!). And yes, I would prefer the stem setting feature; I had a few cheaper mechanical pocket watches as a kid (Westclox, maybe?) that wound and set from the stem, so that would be familiar to me.

This one attracts me, except for the Roman numerals, but I have no idea what the details about the movement, etc. means. It is a 16 size:

https://www.pmtime.com/product/PM2696.html

It seems to be in decent shape, functional, and I don't guess the price is out of line?

As far as my cost range, there again I don't know what I don't know. Which leads me to being here bugging y'all! I don't want to pay an outrageous price, but I don't know what a realistic price for a common, mechanically sound watch would be. I don't care if the watch has some honest wear, but don't want a cracked or crazed bezel, damaged face, etc. I'm in no hurry, so I can save a little more if need be, but I figured something relatively nice but not fancy or rare could be had for $200-$400 or so? If it's going to run much over $450-$500 then I'm probably just going to re-evaluate my "need".

Thank you again for the help!
Regan

Yes that Elgin Model 6 Grade 339 movement, manufactured circa 1907, is a real looker with that 3-finger bridge layout in nickel; "fully jewelled" at 17 to boot. You may find the following link to be of interest:

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/12978753

Based on the 2018 Price Guide, I would expect to pay between $235 for for a fully restored specimen with good case & dial in extra-fine condition, and $385 for an all-original specimen in mint condition. The asking price of $325 needs to be bumped up by $95 to $420, assuming you opt to have it serviced, which you should do.

There's no way to evaluate the watch properly from photos including reviewing the admitted hairline cracks on the dial which don't show to my eye & are described as faint & non-distracting. I would note that the seller offers a very liberal 30-day return policy. Also, you should expect to pay extra for such a fancy case, apparently in great shape, if you don't mind the personalization. That case, incidentally was made by the Crescent Watch Case Co. in "Planet" grade being gold-filled, guaranteed not to wear through the exterior gold layer for 20 years.

My feeling is that assuming the watchmaker doing the servicing finds nothing awry & that you find it satisfactory during the return period, you will have obtained a very nice watch at a reasonable cost.

By the way, the dial & hands do seem original however, numerous optional dials & hands combinations were offered by Elgin & the other companies. Indeed, it was common for a buyer to chose the final combination upon attending at the retailer. In other words there would be no impediment to changing the dial &/or hands down the road to something more to your liking, assuming that such combination was an option at the relevant time.

So will you be pulling the trigger on this your first vintage American pocket watch?

 

[Woodtroll]

Yes that Elgin Model 6 Grade 339 movement, manufactured circa 1907, is a real looker with that 3-finger bridge layout in nickel; "fully jewelled" at 17 to boot. You may find the following link to be of interest:

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/12978753

Based on the 2018 Price Guide, I would expect to pay between $235 for for a fully restored specimen with good case & dial in extra-fine condition, and $385 for an all-original specimen in mint condition. The asking price of $325 needs to be bumped up by $95 to $420, assuming you opt to have it serviced, which you should do.

There's no way to evaluate the watch properly from photos including reviewing the admitted hairline cracks on the dial which don't show to my eye & are described as faint & non-distracting. I would note that the seller offers a very liberal 30-day return policy. Also, you should expect to pay extra for such a fancy case, apparently in great shape, if you don't mind the personalization. That case, incidentally was made by the Crescent Watch Case Co. in "Planet" grade being gold-filled, guaranteed not to wear through the exterior gold layer for 20 years.

My feeling is that assuming the watchmaker doing the servicing finds nothing awry & that you find it satisfactory during the return period, you will have obtained a very nice watch at a reasonable cost.

By the way, the dial & hands do seem original however, numerous optional dials & hands combinations were offered by Elgin & the other companies. Indeed, it was common for a buyer to chose the final combination upon attending at the retailer. In other words there would be no impediment to changing the dial &/or hands down the road to something more to your liking, assuming that such combination was an option at the relevant time.

So will you be pulling the trigger on this your first vintage American pocket watch?

Thank you for taking the time to evaluate this watch! I swear, if it had the Arabic numerals, I believe I would see if the seller was open to a little negotiation on the price and probably purchase it. Good suggestion on the servicing, too; I didn't realize it was that reasonable. Several places I looked at initially wanted $300-$400 for cleaning and lubrication! After your comment, I found "Antique Time Watch Repair" that will clean, lube, and service for $92.50.

I'll keep looking a little while and see what turns up, but at least now I have some idea of what I'm doing. Do you have any recommendations for reliable sellers?

Thanks,
Regan

 

[viclip]

Thank you for taking the time to evaluate this watch! I swear, if it had the Arabic numerals, I believe I would see if the seller was open to a little negotiation on the price and probably purchase it. Good suggestion on the servicing, too; I didn't realize it was that reasonable. Several places I looked at initially wanted $300-$400 for cleaning and lubrication! After your comment, I found "Antique Time Watch Repair" that will clean, lube, and service for $92.50.

I'll keep looking a little while and see what turns up, but at least now I have some idea of what I'm doing. Do you have any recommendations for reliable sellers?

Thanks,
Regan

Well, there's always more fish in the sea, I'm sure that you'll find the right watch soon.

All of my on-line purchases have been via eBay. One never knows what will show up in the mailbox, sometimes I'm pleasantly surprised, other times I begin looking for a "parts movement" to patch up the wreck. But to me it's great fun to hunt down missing/broken parts prepatory to dropping the watch off with my watchmaker.

If you happen to see a watchmaker's or jeweller's store, it might pay to inquire whether they have any vintage watches for sale. Due to low demand they often have serviced timepieces available in the back room rather than on display with the glitzy fast moving items.

In terms of some 16s stem-set hunting configured pocket watches, you might want to keep an eye out for those within the Waltham grades Crescent Street, Riverside & Vanguard; an Elgin offering meeting your criteria would be one of the B.W. Raymond grades.

Anyways I hope that I've been helpful, do be sure to post photos of your acquisition(s).

 

[Woodtroll]

Well, there's always more fish in the sea, I'm sure that you'll find the right watch soon.

All of my on-line purchases have been via eBay. One never knows what will show up in the mailbox, sometimes I'm pleasantly surprised, other times I begin looking for a "parts movement" to patch up the wreck. But to me it's great fun to hunt down missing/broken parts prepatory to dropping the watch off with my watchmaker.

If you happen to see a watchmaker's or jeweller's store, it might pay to inquire whether they have any vintage watches for sale. Due to low demand they often have serviced timepieces available in the back room rather than on display with the glitzy fast moving items.

In terms of some 16s stem-set hunting configured pocket watches, you might want to keep an eye out for those within the Waltham grades Crescent Street, Riverside & Vanguard; an Elgin offering meeting your criteria would be one of the B.W. Raymond grades.

Anyways I hope that I've been helpful, do be sure to post photos of your acquisition(s).

Yes, indeed, you have been a huge help in getting me started, and I genuinely appreciate it!

I am pretty mechanically adept, have a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers and a steady hand. Is switching cases and even dial faces to get exactly the watch I want something that is feasible for a mechanically inclined layman with some Youtube or internet guidance, or is that strictly watch-repairman territory? I'm able to turn screws with the proper fitting screwdrivers without chewing them up, but I assume getting the hands on and off would take special tools?

As far as what face fits what, beyond the obvious size issue: will any Elgin 16s face fit any Elgin 16S watch, whether the crown is at the 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock position? For example, would the watch we talked about above accept this dial face?:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEAR-MINT-...771754?hash=item48b1829a6a:g:w~cAAOSwb6xbczNb

I understand that the movement determines the crown position; will the same case accept either type of movement (i.e., are the mounting screws in the same position relative to the crown, or to the face?) Will a specific size case accept any American watch of that same size, or are the cases specific to particular manufacturers? Maybe I'm digging into this too deep, but I see some watches available that I don't care for the case; or maybe I find a nice watch in a silver case that I could eventually swap cases on. Knowing what pieces will interchange would be a big help in figuring out my options.

Thank you again,
Regan

 

[viclip]

Yes, indeed, you have been a huge help in getting me started, and I genuinely appreciate it!

I am pretty mechanically adept, have a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers and a steady hand. Is switching cases and even dial faces to get exactly the watch I want something that is feasible for a mechanically inclined layman with some Youtube or internet guidance, or is that strictly watch-repairman territory? I'm able to turn screws with the proper fitting screwdrivers without chewing them up, but I assume getting the hands on and off would take special tools?

As far as what face fits what, beyond the obvious size issue: will any Elgin 16s face fit any Elgin 16S watch, whether the crown is at the 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock position? For example, would the watch we talked about above accept this dial face?:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEAR-MINT-...771754?hash=item48b1829a6a:g:w~cAAOSwb6xbczNb

I understand that the movement determines the crown position; will the same case accept either type of movement (i.e., are the mounting screws in the same position relative to the crown, or to the face?) Will a specific size case accept any American watch of that same size, or are the cases specific to particular manufacturers? Maybe I'm digging into this too deep, but I see some watches available that I don't care for the case; or maybe I find a nice watch in a silver case that I could eventually swap cases on. Knowing what pieces will interchange would be a big help in figuring out my options.

Thank you again,
Regan

First off, I now realize that I likely gave you the wrong impression concerning lever set watches. When I had mentioned that they were a pain & liable to resulty in broken crystals (chipped dials too, I might add), I had in mind open face models. Actually these pitfalls don't apply to hunting models. For open face models the front bezel must be screwed off in order to access the lever, the bezel then becomes easily airborne resulting in damaged crystals upon impact, the dial can be chipped by one's finger nail while trying to snag the lever in order to pull it out, & after setting the hands the bezel must be screwed back on, which can be finicky. On the hunting models, the lever is accessible immediately upon opening the front cover i.e. there's a recess in the bezel allowing the lever to be pulled out without removing the bezel (indeed, hunting model front bezels cannot even be screwed off, they're snapped off whenever the crystal must be replaced or the dial accessed, which should be rarely). The only difficulty with the lever set which applies to hunting models - & also applies to open face models - is that snagging them with one's finger nail calls for some degree of manual dexterity & visual acuity, which abilities could be impaired for various reasons including getting on in years.

Anyways I would urge you to reconsider whether lever setting in a hunting model would be acceptable to you. Since most hunting models came with lever setting, this combination would open up many more models for your consideration. In particular, most classic railroad watch models were also offered in hunting configuration for those interested in them but not being required to carry a pocket watch meeting railway time standards (especially later on, hunting cases were no longer being accepted by the railway timekeepers).

Well now allow me to say a few words respecting some of the questions posed by you.

Switching cases is pretty straight forward provided that the cases are compatible with the movement in terms of both inner diameters as well as their thicknesses. American cases are generally standard sized in terms of inner diameters but thicknesses can vary, for later cases were made to house the thinner movements as those became popular. There are exceptions to be aware of, for example early 18s Illinois cases are actually larger than the standard, Howard cases seem to have been made especially for Howard movements, Waltham produced some strange cases after WW I that were combined 14s/12s oddballs etc.

Anyways to remove a typical non-swing-out American movement generally entails removing the 2 case screws at the back of the movement (or re-aligning special half-moon screws), then with the dial facing up removing the front bezel (some are snap off, some are screw off), pulling out the stem (sometimes a set screw must be loosened), & manipulating the movement out. It's a good idea to use a latex glove when handling the movement but be careful to not snag the hands, they're easily bent. Getting corrosive oily foreign material from human fingers onto dials & movements can result in staining.

The case screws at the back of the movement can make contact with the case at any 2 points. There's a lip that goes around the entire inner circumference of the case, this allows for the same case to house any number of different movement models of any manufacturer subscribing to standard movement sizes. By the same token a hunting configured movement can be installed into an open face case & an open face configured movement can be installed in a hunting case. It's a matter of personal preference, also so-called conversion dials are available to result in a more familiar look, although the seconds bit won't be in the usual location.

In terms of dial compatibility, you have to be aware that dials were punched out of sheet copper & 3 little feet consisting of short lengths of copper or brass wire were soldered to their backs at precise postions. So obviously any swappable dial must have its feet in compatible locations, usually specifed as being at so & so minute, which feet must also be within a particular radius or circle; furthermore the distances between the post for the hour/minute hands, & the post for the seconds hand, must match up. With some exceptions, dials can only be used with particular models or even sub-models. Sometimes dials from related models can be interchanged as between the open face & hunting configurations, but often not so you'd need to do your research. Thus Model 3 might be the open face version of a certain movement while Model 4 would be the hunting version of that movement - often the dials are not interchangeable, it depends on the design parameters set by the manufacturer.

You really should acquire a special hands puller from one of the on-line retailers. Be very careful against the hands going flying into orbit somewhere, especially the small seconds hand. The 3 dial feet are held in place using tiny screws that enter from the side of the movement. When removing the dial, be sure that the screws are fully released & super gently go around the dial with a razor blade or very thin knife, gently & gradually working the dial up from the movement. If the dial is stressed, it will be cracked &/or bullseyed at one or more of the feet ~ we're talking about a thin slug of copper onto which glass enamel was melted! Also when re-attaching the dial, just tighten the screws enough to catch the feet, applying too much pressure against the feet will stress the dial above the attachment points causing cratering or bullseyeing as the enamel cracks & even flakes off. And when re-installing the hands it's a good idea to have special hollow dowels available for that purpose. The watch should be kept face up throughout the entire operation because once the dial is removed, there are some small gears as well as a special dished washer, that can fall out & get lost.

I'm rattling on & on & only scratching the surface. As you noted, there are numerous on-line resources available. I'd suggest that a good initial approach would be to acquire the Price Guide that I mentioned previously, currently the 2018 edition. The first 100 or so pages provide an excellent introductory overview to watches esp. pocket watches. Most of the remaining 1100 pages deal with various models & their pricing, with a great deal of info respecting movements & production numbers. Anyways you can order the Price Guide on-line directly from the publisher namely Tinderbox Press. Bookstores also carry it, it may be discounted by now in as much as the 2019 edition is in the works.

 

[Woodtroll]

Viclip, you can't imagine how much help you have been in getting me started. Based on your first couple of replies, I have done a lot of reading today and was able to figure out what sizes, configurations, brands, etc. meet my idea of the "ideal" pocket watch, and what to look for as far as reliability and functionality. As far as swapping cases and faces, I figured out that mechanically it's not hard (thanks to Youtube), but figuring out what mates with what may be more than I want to take on, especially since you're not buying readily available cases and faces new off the shelf with the manufacturer's specs and fit specifications readily apparent. It looks like the hunter cases being sold by themselves are not very common.

So, I think I better focus on finding something that matches what I want, without modification. I've asked the seller on Etsy if his price is negotiable on the watch I already mentioned to you, and have made an offer on a similar one on eBay with Arabic numerals and a case I like better but that has a higher asking price. Either way, I think I will send my purchase in for a service.

I'm off to a good start, I think, thanks to your help. I sincerely appreciate it and hope you have a great evening!
Regan