Pleated pants

[Lensmaster]

From my observations buying pants in recent years virtually all pleated pants today have the pleats (the open part) facing out to the sides. I think this makes the pants balloon out and makes the wearer look fatter. I prefer pleats that face inward towards each other. This seems to turn the material between the pleats inward and gives a slimmer look. I know size and length of the pleat has some bearing on this also. Have pleats historically faced outward or inward? Which type do you prefer?

 

[Two Types]

In the UK and Europe pleats traditionally face inward and are still routinely made that way. I prefer them and it's one of the reasons I am reluctant to buy American suits and trousers. However, I believe that in the past many American suits (possibly just tailor made?) did use inward facing pleats.

 

[Feraud]

Most trousers today have a low rise, so that kills the pleat option for me. Low rise+pleats= fail!

 

[Fading Fast]

I'm with you in liking facing in or "forward" pleats because, as you said, it give the pants a cleaner line. As with most things, done well and in the right context of the suit, outward facing or "reverse" pleats can work, but I don't like the line as much. Today I'm amazed that you found any pants with pleats as the low-rise, flat front mania has forced many pleated pants from the shelves.

 

[herringbonekid]

Have pleats historically faced outward or inward? Which type do you prefer?

inward facing pleats were fairly common on American trousers in the 30s.
after WW2 outward facing pleats became much more common in the U.S., especially on the 'Hollywood' style trouser (no waistband, dropped belt-loops).

 

[Quetzal]

inward facing pleats were fairly common on American trousers in the 30s.
after WW2 outward facing pleats became much more common in the U.S., especially on the 'Hollywood' style trouser (no waistband, dropped belt-loops).

Hmm, perhaps my "late 1930s" DB Tuxedo is a 1940s, as the pants have outward pleats and a zipper. I think that outward pleats look fine, but pleats only look good when the pants are nice and high, and when the pleats are nice and deep.

-Quetzal

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

"Fairly common" doesn't say all of the pre 40s trousers had them. Zippers were also on the market. Maybe the combination of several features can help you dating the items. Do you have a picture?

 

[Quetzal]

"Fairly common" doesn't say all of the pre 40s trousers had them. Zippers were also on the market. Maybe the combination of several features can help you dating the items. Do you have a picture?

Sure, I'll upload one when I'm not as busy later this week. The suit is, without a doubt from that era (the guy at the flea market who sold it to me told me that it was made for the last owner, a musician back in "the late 1930s").

-Quetzal

 

[LuvMyMan]

Some of the pleated trousers made by Ralph Lauren, Santorelli, Zegna have the pleats facing inwards. But I have noticed this is not on the most recent or newer trousers offered by these labels. You have to look to find them. In some cases trousers I have purchased for my Husband that are made in France, all have pleats facing forward. It may be the label (will have to look on the trousers to see the actual brand label) have been manufactured following a pattern of a vintage style?

I have found that nicer wool or a wool blend with silk, seem to hold a crease when it comes to pleats and that cotton are a regular "booger" to keep a crease in...but it seems the pleats actually help keep the crease in the trousers...(if that makes sense). Pleats also have a more defined look on the rather crisp look than a pair of trousers that are flat fronts. It seems also that pleated give a bit of room for the front pocket area to help make it easier to get a hand in and obtain things such as change or a lighter or watch...flat fronts tend to be on the snug side and hamper the usability of the front pockets.

I myself also prefer to wear pleats.

 

[herringbonekid]

Hmm, perhaps my "late 1930s" DB Tuxedo is a 1940s, as the pants have outward pleats and a zipper. I think that outward pleats look fine, but pleats only look good when the pants are nice and high, and when the pleats are nice and deep.

-Quetzal

there's a pair of 1936 dated trousers with outward facing pleats here:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ood-s-tailor&p=1852734&viewfull=1#post1852734

 

[pmjk]

Good day to All,

I don't post very often but I wanted to share a look at some new trousers I had made here in Vietnam. I am teaching English hear and importing from back home can get expensive. I brought a local tailor a few photographs and with some hand gestures was able to convincce him to take on the job. One week later, today, I picked these up. Cost $35 USD per pair. Although I didn't specifically talk about the pleats he seems to have faced them inward. I must say I haven't seen or worn such trousers since I was a boy. Outwardly facing pleats is the norm now in Canada. Please tell me what you think. The tailor informs me in can make me a three piece suit in any style or material for $150.

Specs. 15.5" front rise, 2 " cuff.