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Plastic Hat Shapers really work!

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
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2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
I haven't done it yet but I'm betting if you look in the stetson block number thread you'll see that each of those hats had different blocks, and probably that those even varied by year.

True, and Stetson's numbers were proprietary. Some differences were quite marginal, though. Of course a renovator couldn't have all blocks on the market in stock (and in all sizes), but he could have the most common substitutes. Sometimes you'll see specific blocks being recomended for specific hat models, when you look in old supplier catalogs
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
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6,795
Location
Central Ohio
I have a question. I'm considering buying a block from Hat Shapers, (can't afford the real deal), and I need to make sure I get the right circumference. I'm 22 5/8 in circumference. If I'm blocking a hat with the sweat band still attached would I need to get a block that's an inch smaller in circumference at 21 5/8? Also, in the reverse, if I'm blocking one without the sweat attached would I need to get a block that's an inch larger circumference, (23 5/8)?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
My understanding is that if you're blocking without a sweatband, you go true to size. With a sweatband, you go one size down.

Anybody please feel free to correct me. [huh]
 

T Jones

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6,795
Location
Central Ohio
My understanding is that if you're blocking without a sweatband, you go true to size. With a sweatband, you go one size down.

Anybody please feel free to correct me. [huh]
Thanks buddy. I was talking with a fellow lounger and he said one size down with the sweat in and one size up without the sweat. I'm assuming the same rules would apply with the plastic Hat Shapers?

Me too... [huh]
Anybody please feel free to correct me. [huh]
 
Last edited:

John Galt

Vendor
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2,080
Location
Chico
He is right TJ - with the sweat in you want your actual head size. Same thing as one size down from your block size, because of the increase for the sweat.
 
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T Jones

I'll Lock Up
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6,795
Location
Central Ohio
He is right TJ - with the sweat in you want your actual head size.

I think he actually said, 22 1/2 should work with the sweat in and my actual size at 22 5/8 with the sweat out. So are you saying that my actual size at 22 5/8 with the sweat in then?
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
Ok, to re-block with the sweatband in, you would want a block that matches your head size (and shape, if possible).

To re-block after removing the sweat, you want a block that is marked the size you want to block the hat at, which will already have about 7/8 to 1" extra circumference added to allow for the sweatband. If this block is not marked for size and only circumference is used, then it should be about 7/8 to 1" larger in circumference than the head it is intended to fit.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
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6,795
Location
Central Ohio
Ok, to re-block with the sweatband in, you would want a block that matches your head size (and shape, if possible).

To re-block after removing the sweat, you want a block that is marked the size you want to block the hat at, which will already have about 7/8 to 1" extra circumference added to allow for the sweatband. If this block is not marked for size and only circumference is used, then it should be about 7/8 to 1" larger in circumference than the head it is intended to fit.
Excellent...thanks John.
 

CRH

Call Me a Cab
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2,272
Location
West Branch, IA
I'll be ordering the 22 1/2 version myself. I've been putting this off way too long. Still no success finding an affordable wood block in 7 1/4 that is actually serviceable.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
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6,795
Location
Central Ohio
I'll be ordering the 22 1/2 version myself. I've been putting this off way too long. Still no success finding an affordable wood block in 7 1/4 that is actually serviceable.

Yup. I hear ya. Trying to find any kind of hatters tools that's affordable is next to impossible. We had this conversation in another thread about the high prices of Rounding Jacks and Hat Blocks. So, I'm going this route too. The guys who have the plastic hat shapers say they work pretty good.
 

gear-guy

Practically Family
Messages
962
Location
southern indiana
The guys who have the plastic hat shapers say they work pretty good.

No surprise, the car or truck that you drive is plastic and it runs pretty good. Sad but true.
 
Last edited:

Meterman

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
TN
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With a little effort you can make your own blocks and flange to fit your head perfect. I have used the hat shaper forms and they do work ok. I used foam and Duram's water putty. I've seen people use wood filler too.


Are we having fun yet?

Could you provide more information on how you do this? I have made my own shape conformers for years using an artists flexible curve and cedar or basswood. I'm very interested in the flange since I am a long oval and my brims deform once the hat stretches to fit.
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
The guys who have the plastic hat shapers say they work pretty good.

No surprise, the car or truck that you drive is plastic and it runs pretty good. Sad but true.

"Works pretty good" and "runs pretty good" can mean a lot of things. If you use the same block or hatshaper on different hats, those hats will end up with the same profle - no matter how different their profiles were meant to be. That is pretty far from my goal.

When re-blocking a hat, you iron it on the block. Do any of the satisfied hatshaper-owners actually iron their hats on the shaper?

"Pretty good" is not necessarily "good". Sad but true ;)
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
I have a handful of blocks and flanges in my size. I've never found them difficult or expensive to acquire. Urgency to purchase might make the selection at a particular moment in time seem lean or expensive. Try an eBay search for >antique hat<. It brings up tools and other cool stuff.

I don't cut or otherwise manhandle brims. But that's just me.
 

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