Photos of hatters tools

[-30-]

"My thought here was that the bucket lid could be pierced to provide a barrier between the drill and the aerosolized naptha."
John Galt.

You may laugh at what I'm going to write, but SUPRISE!

The Aerosol from the hat, or whatever, that would be within the Confined Space of The Container would probably be

Above the Explosive Limit; recall The Fire Triangle: Fuel; Heat; Oxygen. There Would be more than enough Fuel within

the Confined Space; There Could be more than enough Heat, recall the use of Plastic and Static Electricity; there would

Not be enough Oxygen to complete the Fire Triangle; hence, No Fire.

BUT

there Would be Enough Fuel Seeping Out of the Container And Combining With Oxygen to be Ignited by the sparking of

the Drill's Brushes against the Commutator to Complete The Fire Triangle!

Happy Birthday!! Everyone.

I believe that everyone's best practise is the Hand Crank Method; cheap & cheerful and Safe.


Regards,
J T

 

[RJR]

Agree,any source of spark and you're looking at serious issues!

 

[-30-]

"Can't find anything on the manufacturer. Anyone heard of them?"
John Galt.

I would try internetarchive.org and inquire of a City Directory of whichever city looked for.

These are not telephone books.

Eg: For Toronto, Canada, this, where I live and is one of my Specialties, City of Toronto Directories are available

with a few exceptions, 1832 through to 1922. Listings within, contain every city street and the name of the inhabitant/

business at each number thereof; the name of the inhabitant/business within the community; plus a commercial section

with possible adverts. These Directories were published throughout North America and are invaluable for any kind of

research, and although your bandwidth/volume may suffer, they all being free to download.

Another tool that I use, same initial resource, is that of an Insurance Fire Atlas of each city. These are maps of each

street; each building thereon; the fire protection afforded; and usually other pertinent details. "Goad's" was a large

player of these within Canada and were initiated for use by Fire Insurance Underwriters. I am sure to guess that

there were the same or others, Stateside, with this type of atlas.


Regards,
J T

 

[tonyb]

The longer I've been crafting and refurbishing hats, the less reliant I have become on volatile compounds.

Naphtha, etc., have their place, as there are certain stains that water won't do a damn thing to. But the reverse is generally more true. But please know that while petroleum distillates present their hazards, so does soap and water, not to the hatter so much as to the hat. Don't apply any sort of water-soluble detergent directly to the felt. No, no, no! Mix the solution first, in a large basin of some sort. And, to be extra safe, soak the hat body in plain water before introducing it to the soap-and-water solution.

The beauty of naphtha and the like is that most hats can be treated with it whole, and they don't lose their shape and "body" once the stuff evaporates. (I know of a instance or two when that wasn't the case, and literally hundreds of instances when it was.) Using water solutions requires the hat to be stripped down to the body and then, after it's cleaned and it resembles a dishrag as much as a hat, reblocked and reflanged and put back together again. Lots more work, for sure. If you lack the equipment, don't even consider doing it.

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for the offer JG, but I, like you, have no time to take on any more side projects. I'm thinking something along the lines of this hand crank dairy spinner mounted sideways on a sawhorse type structure. Should be simple to replace the dairy attachment on the shaft with your hat spinner. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Han...ube-Spinner-/371222338118?hash=item566e935a46

Aye, there's the rub. Please PM me if you want better pics, though.


Any shaft with some mechanism to provide outward pressure at the hat's internal width & length would work for the spinner. I love the dairy tool idea. I agree the spinner would fit or easily be adapted, and the tool just looks right.

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for your comments Tony & JT. Fire was certainly a major concern historically, for hatters. The insurance maps JT mentioned show the hat shops, and the old insurance studies address hatters and their methods in detail due to the high fire risk.

As for the spinner assembly, no time for such endeavors at this time anyway. Probably will follow HS's lead and your kind advise when I do set up a good cleaning station. Hopefully in the not to distant future...

 

[humanshoes]

I'm wondering why something like this wouldn't work to spin the extra naphtha out of the hat. Hey, what's good for the lettuce....
http://www.amazon.com/Brieftons-Sal...701&sr=8-1&keywords=extra+large+salad+spinner

 

[moehawk]

Just got these at the flea market for 10 dollars each!

Shorter one is 22.5", taller one is 21" at the base, but it bulbs out to 22" at the widest point. Not sure what kind of hat it's for, but I bet it will work well as a stand for photographing hats.

 

[EstherWeis]

See, here no hat blocks for 10 dollars... My guess the tall one is more for presenting. Nice score!


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[alanfgag]

Milliner's forms, I believe.

 

[moehawk]

Here's close ups of the markings on the short one, also, note the curve to the bottom. Was that meant to fit into a device to lock it in place for use?

 

[John Galt]

Milliner's forms, I believe.

+1

You've got some small sizes there, but as you say, good for photography.

 

[John Galt]

Here's close ups of the markings on the short one, also, note the curve to the bottom. Was that meant to fit into a device to lock it in place for use?.

[...]

Broken link in my end for the photos...

 

[moehawk]

Look fine on my end...

 

[moehawk]

Pics deleted

 

[John Galt]

I can see them all now, both in the original post, my quote (I will edit them out to save bandwidth) & the repost. I don't know why the shorter block is kerfed that way. Your suggestion is as good as any, but it could have been made for use with a particular flange or bottom board.

 

[moehawk]

Interesting. Pic problem and the block, that is. The shorter one measures 22.6 inches at the base, is roughly 5.5 inches high from the bottom string groove, so that isn't THAT small of a block. Bit more taper than the ones I made.

 

[humanshoes]

Nice score moehawk! I'll buy hat blocks all day long for that price, whether I need them or not. Can't have too many. That shorter one looks like a block for a Tyrolean style hat. Maybe something like this.

 

[humanshoes]

JW Hats Curling Shackle Irons

My latest additions to the hat making tool arsenal. This set of three curling shackle irons from JW Hats. They include 1/8, 3/8, and 5/8 curl sizes and look like they are built to last a lifetime. Now all I have to do is find the many hours it will surely take to master their use.

 

[tonyb]

Interesting heat-shield setup on those babes, 'shoes.

I have some old, old, old ones -- wooden handles, one of which is missing. But other than the handle-less one, they're perfectly serviceable. You'd almost have to try to damage them.