Photos of hatters tools

[Brad Bowers]

Do you have any front/rear tollikers that do the tight curl (more of a 90-degree fold, really) on the fromt and rear start of D'Orsay curls on Derbies? I keep trying to find one, but they are MIA. Maybe that's why no one attempts a proper D'Orsay curl anymore.

Brad

 

[Hatter4]

Brad: This is a front and rear tolliker, sometimes called a "matrisse". I hope this helps.

 

[John Galt]

Missed this hat sizing jig on eBay while in a client meeting. Any of you guys get it? Great price...

 

[John Galt]

Good news is I picked up a working 1890's Singer for $40.00. Not sure of the model, but I'm thinking 107 or 108. It will come in handy.

 

[Block Maker]

IF anyone finds any of the shackles or toilkiers I am sure I could replicate them out of wood and actually make it reasonable for everyone!

 

[TheDane]

Missed this hat sizing jig on eBay while in a client meeting. Any of you guys get it? Great price...

I'm quite sure, the metal ribbon was missing. Without it - no measuring. It could probably be substituted, though.

I'm turning fluorescent green of envy to hear about the Singer! Very excited to hear news! :eusa_clap

 

[John Galt]

I'm quite sure, the metal ribbon was missing. Without it - no measuring. It could probably be substituted, though.

I'm turning fluorescent green of envy to hear about the Singer! Very excited to hear news! :eusa_clap

I think you must be right Olė. I kept inspecting it, pondering, and finally visualized that it must seat against the sweat & extend a metal band to fill the gap, but I did not see it there either.

 

[John Galt]

Also, as far as the tip stand is concerned, it could be a tip stand by a different manufacturer but I always thought that the piece that goes inside the hat should be wider so you could iron the top of the hat.

I noted that the top end seemed too small, and was wondering if this wasn't actually something else entirely. I think I'll pass on it, but keep my eyes open. As for the bottom board & curling table, I'll take a stab when I have some minutes...

 

[ManofKent]

ManoKent I have a book called "Luton and the hat industy" by Charles Freeman printed in 1976.

I shall keep my out for a copy. I've just discovered there was another book published late last year:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Industry-Lu...63&sr=8-1&keywords=luton+and+the+hat+industry

It might focus more on the architecture, but I've ordered a copy to see.

 

[John Galt]

I'm turning fluorescent green of envy to hear about the Singer! Very excited to hear news! :eusa_clap

It's not easily done because the bed, including the serial number "plate" has been repainted, but I read the serial number as J-080892, which my research reveals actually corresponds with a 1904 manufacture date, and location of Clydebank, Scotland.

A plate has patent dates to 1891.

The actual model number, I believe, is a 27K, based on a vibrating boat-shaped bobbin shuttle, 14 1/2" bed, and low bobbin winder.

It has a small motor and a light, but a belt & table would easily convert it (back?) to a treadle.

The price was great and it works, but I don't know how great this particular model is for hatting, except that it can do the brim stitching.

Thoughts?

 

[Block Maker]

It's not easily done because the bed, including the serial number "plate" has been repainted, but I read the serial number as J-080892, which my research reveals actually corresponds with a 1904 manufacture date, and location of Clydebank, Scotland.

A plate has patent dates to 1891.



The actual model number, I believe, is a 27K, based on a vibrating boat-shaped bobbin shuttle, 14 1/2" bed, and low bobbin winder.

It has a small motor and a light, but a belt & table would easily convert it (back?) to a treadle.

The price was great and it works, but I don't know how great this particular model is for hatting, except that it can do the brim stitching.

Thoughts?

I have a few old singer machines and never had any luck with them. Wanted to use them for bound edges and even had the binding foot….problem was the one I had wasn't designed for thick material like felt. I ended up getting a singer clone made in japan…more features and less money. I use it to sew webbing for rifle slings. I hope you can get this to work and then maybe you can help me figure it out!

Best of luck!

 

[John Galt]

Thanks. It may be that it needs to be a treadle to have the necessary power. I'll keep you posted.

 

[TheDane]

If you clean, grease and adjust it, you'll probably have a workhorse, that outperformes most modern household machines. Singer made machines for lot of different tasks, but for straight seams in felt, most old Singers will work great. It's always a good idea to check out, what the transporter is made and set up for. If the machine is set up for sewing silk-jersey, it will not work with thick felt. You may want to look for spare parts to set the machine up for your work - just as with any other brand.

 

[Block Maker]

I will look for the guys contact info that I got my machine from. I told him I needed it to sew mil spec nylon webbing for slings and he set it up to do that…and it worked great. He also has a HUGE inventory of parts for a vast amount of vintage singer machines!

 

[John Galt]

Thanks, both!

 

[Mr.Astor]

To make a rock steady bottom board, I would suggest an old theatre-trick:

View attachment 9780

Three rubber wheels mounted on the underside 120° apart. This construction will not rock around a shaft -

and with three wheels it will never be able to lift a wheel and rock. The wheels must be of the non-turning (don't know the proper English term) type. The wheel itself must turn, but it can not turn around it's own
axis. Hope that was understandable

A microwave oven tray is very similar rotates on it's axis attached to a round piece of 1" high density MDF should work fine! No chance of transference of grain from natural wood. Seal edge of MDF so that you have no chance of moisture absorption. I use MDF on my ironing board for ironing brims two cutouts (front&aback) (side to side) I cut two thirds of the depth of the block I am using. Pretty reasonable with MDF I can have three applications reasonably long oval, short oval, round. My ironing boards with two cuts are 11"x30" two predrilled holes on the 30" lengths attach to table with wingnuts for reverse applications.
Hope I helped someone.

 

[Block Maker]

Okay guys,

I made a luring pad today and got some cocoanut oil and went at it on a hat. I just did the underside of the brim with hat body still on the block. I used very little oil and followed directions on here and in my book I have. It appears to have nicely evened out the color (drk brown) from pouncing and has left a little sheen to the felt. I am a wee bit nervous to attack the crown and upper brim. Is there anything I should watch out for? After the luring do I need do "set" it with an iron? I will say this…it sure does smell good while working with the cocoanut oil.

Thank you

 

[Block Maker]

A microwave oven tray is very similar rotates on it's axis attached to a round piece of 1" high density MDF should work fine! No chance of transference of grain from natural wood. Seal edge of MDF so that you have no chance of moisture absorption. I use MDF on my ironing board for ironing brims two cutouts (front&aback) (side to side) I cut two thirds of the depth of the block I am using. Pretty reasonable with MDF I can have three applications reasonably long oval, short oval, round. My ironing boards with two cuts are 11"x30" two predrilled holes on the 30" lengths attach to table with wingnuts for reverse applications.
Hope I helped someone.

You can get a very nice lazy susan ball bearing flange from the hardware store or a woodworking store. They come in various sizes….Mine is 12" in diameter and I love it. Its on a stable base and glides very smoothly. I use this table for everything. I used 3/4 inch plywood only after I used the mdf and sealed it and it puffed up from steam and water.

 

[Hatter4]

I have three bottom boards-- one is 24" X 3"; The second is 24" x 2"; and the third is very old as seen on page 57 of Scientific Hat Finishing. I have never had "transference of grain from natural wood". I have used these bottom boards for 30 years, I sealed them using boiled linseed oil, and I use an aluminum disk on top of the board.

 

[Mr.Astor]

I use boiled linseed oil on my 2 natural cherry mantle tops and my farm tables. Swear by it for natural application's! I just wouldn't take a chance on my hat's? I have seen the residue left behind on applications,some area's of the wood accept it more readily than other spot's. Just my personal experience. MDF you can use a cushion of flannel on the bottom or the top if you want a softer feel to the felt. With natural wood when you apply water or steam the natural tendency of the wood is to swell to it's natural position,like when you get get those pesky indentation's in a beautiful piece of flat wood that you laid on the bench on top of sawdust a dimple, flannel wet with a steam iron take's it away. I prefer a stable product to work with. MDF works for me.