Photos of hatters tools

[humanshoes]

I'm with you, Hatter4. I wish to keep my hats "in house" as much as possible and affordable, both to me and to my friends who want custom hats so I'll do as much as can myself, hence the handmade hatter's tools. I respect what you're saying, Dane, there can be no substitute for the years of experience and proper equipment of the master hatters, but I'm 60 years old and I don't aspire to be one of those guys. I'm just trying to be reasonbly competent and turn out a decent, if imperfect, hat.

 

[TheDane]

I'm a peers programmer, who has drawn the consequence I do most things with hats, but brim binding is not one of them. Stitching along a raw edge or stitching a welting is doable with a strong household machine. To make a nice vintage looking binding (evenly stitched very close to the edge of the ribbon), in my mind it takes an industrial type walking foot machine with a good guide. I have also tried to bast the ribbon around the brim before sewing on a household machine, but the result is not satisfying. It may work for others, but I have stopped trying - until (if ever) I find an affordable WF-machine

 

[John Galt]

Well, I'm going to borrow my mother's old treadle this weekend. I'm pretty decent with a needle & thread, but I'm no great talent yet.

I'm very pleased with this Stetson Nutria conversion. Can't wait to finish it. It was a really beat up old cowboy hat. I'll look for a before photo.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Hatter4]

John it looks good. what did you use for the sweatband? I mean where you get the sweatband. Humanshoes check my web site.

 

[John Galt]

Hatter4,

I bought the sweat from JWHats. JW has been good to me.

I think they were $5 each. He makes them himself, and they've got a bit of a curve built in. They come in brown & black, with the reed, and for my order at least, the ferrules & sweatband bows were free. They are pretty good. Soft & supple, but substantial. Better than what I had before by far.

He's also going to let me go down & spend a few days at his shop sometime. Hopefully this summer.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[humanshoes]

Very interesting and informative website Hatter4. I admire the level of dedication and passion it must take to so fully immerse yourself in the hatter's craft/art. Maybe not too surprising considering your lineage, but impressive, nonetheless. I like your conversion with the bound edge, John, and have arranged the loan of a vintage walking foot sewing machine and will have a go at brim binding using the method outlined by the good fellow from Tumwater Hats. I have some brim material left over from a few conversions that I will practice on first. We'll see. Again, I really appreciate the ideas and encouragement from all you folks here on the lounge.

 

[John Galt]

Here are a couple of vintage paper mâché hat blocks (not mine):

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Landman]

John, could you post a picture of one of your sweats from JWHats? I couldn't find a very good picture of one on his website. I've been thinking about buying some. Thanks.

 

[bloc]

John it looks good. what did you use for the sweatband? I mean where you get the sweatband. Humanshoes check my web site.

Fascinating website Hatter4. The photos and information on how you make hats by hand is really useful. I would love to come and see you in action one day.

What is the benefit of using old fashioned irons over modern ones. Is it the weight? I am using a modern iron but have been thinking about changing over.

And, can I ask about your sweatbands. Do you make reeded sweatbands by hand or do you sew them in by hand, or both? I was planning to make my sweatbands from scratch but have had problems sourcing the right leather in the UK. I have found a supplier of reeded leather sweatbands that I am using at the moment and they are pretty good. But I think I could do better eventually.

Cheers

 

[Hatter4]

Bloc , I am glad you liked my web site. I just like using all the old tools, the heavy irons do help to flatten the brims. I buy my sweatbands commercially but the sweatband and trimmings are sewn by hand. I make hats for re-enactors. I've been making hats this way since 1985.

 

[Hatter4]

John, what is the life expectancy of a papier mache hat block? I have some plaster of Paris blocks for ladies' straw bonnets. But after a few uses, they disintegrate. I have one set of these plaster of Paris molds that I keep just for their historic value--not to be used.

 

[TheDane]

In theory a paper mâché block will last just as well as a block made from wood ... or plaster of paris. The important properties of the material used is: Mechanical strength, resistance to moisture and low heat conductance. Both plaster and paper mâché have low heat conductance, and if properly sealed with an efficient lacquer, moisture shouldn't pose a problem. The only real problem is the mechanical strength needed when ironing the hat, so especially paper mâché must be pretty heavily reinforced.

 

[John Galt]

Hatter4, TheDanes answer is as good as any I could give. The one seems to have seen quite a lot of use...


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

John, could you post a picture of one of your sweats from JWHats? I couldn't find a very good picture of one on his website. I've been thinking about buying some. Thanks.

The leather is very soft, but durable. I think it is goatskin. If you watch the YouTube video, you can watch him make them. I like that they are made with a bit of a curl as shown, and I didn't have to buy a gross. Also, if you have a die made (he has an artist) he'll emboss them with your mark.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Landman]

John, thanks for taking the time to post the picture.

 

[Cornshucker77]

Action Shots of the Antique Hat Measuring Tool

Problem is...it's not accurate. :rage:

I took an old metal tape measure which is about 1/4 inch wide and cut it off at 30". Formed it into a circle and clipped it with three staples from my stapler. Now I have a circular tape to measure the circumference of the hat. Simple and inexpensive. Just thought I would share this idea with everyone.

 

[John Galt]

John, thanks for taking the time to post the picture.

No problem.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[humanshoes]

Made the rest of the tools I needed for the new hat. A flange stand (have vintage flange block) and a band block to use to get a more precise brim cut. The hat has come along nicely (shown in backround), but I'm still on the fence about the brim binding. Made a brim guide in the circumference of the outer brim and practiced with the borrowed sewing machine this weekend. Achieved acceptable results on brim scraps, however I'd like to know that if I mess up it won't be the end of the hat. Can I take off the binding and steam and brush out the holes if it does not go well or will I be stuck with a perforated brim. Also, I have pounced the hat to 1000 grit and love the feel and pliability. I have Kahl hat stiffener, but don't know how much to use. Any and all advice will be more than welcome.

 

[John Galt]

Humanshoes,

I'm also breaking my teeth on brim bindings so won't address that issue, but from your photo, it isn't clear whether the reed breaks over the bottom side of the "foot."

It may just be the photo, but because I had this problem at first, I thought I'd mention it. After some advice from the fellas here, I now clip the reed 1/2 inch longer than the sweat, then pull the sweat together so as to force the reed to flare out like a bell at the bottom. This keeps the stitches away from the wearer's head, and makes for a more comfortable wearing experience. I think it helps to bend the sweat a bit where it will flare, before pulling the sweat tight at the reed.

If this is old hat, or inapplicable, please ignore.

JG


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[ManofKent]

I took an old metal tape measure which is about 1/4 inch wide and cut it off at 30". Formed it into a circle and clipped it with three staples from my stapler. Now I have a circular tape to measure the circumference of the hat. Simple and inexpensive. Just thought I would share this idea with everyone.

Clever idea.