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Panama hats with folded and sewn brims

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
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2,006
Location
Great Northwest
Okay, I'm no expert on Panama's, too much rain here in Oregon to get too interested in straws. So you guys with more experience handling Panama's tell me this, how good a quality and high priced can a Panama hat be if it has had it's brim edge folded under and just sewn? The reason I ask is I see some on ebay that have been selling for over $200. You can see the sewn edge on the brims, but to me that seems just too high. I'm I wrong on this, please enlighten me you straw afficionado's.

fedoralover
 

BobC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,378
Location
Central IL
I've never seen a panama with a folded and sewn brim. All I've seen were backwoven, even the less expensive panamas.
 

indycop

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,325
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
Before I found Panama Bob I got an overpriced one from a Panama hat store in St. Augustine. It had the folded and sewn brim. It looked like they sewed it down then cut the ends with scissors...it was cheap looking.
 

fedoralover

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2,006
Location
Great Northwest
Here's a pic of one that just sold on ebay for around $218. You can see the stitching on the edge of the brim. Granted it was a vintage hat but with all due respect to the seller, you got a heck of a sale on that one. IMHO.
So I'm hoping I'm not stepping on any toes here if the seller and buyer are lounge members, but one of the purposes of the lounge is to educate it's members. Now if I'm seeing something in these photos that is wrong, I'll do an honest and humble retraction, but it sure looks like a sewn edge to me.
mallorycomp2.jpg


fedoralover
 
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job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
Some straw hats are cut and sewn to keep an exact size. For an example a 2 1/2 brim on a panama to keep it dressy. If not the brim sizes would be all over the place.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
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USA
I wouldn't say that a backwoven brim is a sign of quality in and of itself.
 

fmw

One Too Many
Messages
1,017
Location
USA
I have 3 panama hats, two Stetsons and one from Panama Bob. None of them are expensive but all of them have a sewn over brim.
 

Panamabob

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Messages
2,012
Location
Fort Wayne, Indiana
On one hand, the folded over brim is a shortcut from some companies in Cuenca....and I tell them that. They try to save $.50 per hat by doing that. Some of the hats we bought from a new supplier this year were about 50/50 folded over/regular backweave. I tried to make it clear to them that I don't want it done that way in the future.

On the other hand, companies like Dorfzaun, use a process that makes the hat look quite nice from the underside and they fold over/sew to bring uniformity to the brims. They finish a nice hat, so compared to the company in the first paragraph, they can put out hats that cost less and look like a million bucks, a la Borsalino.

On the third hand (what?), you've got companies who use the backweave and zigzag sew for strength. These are some of my favorite hats.

I'm with Tomasso on this, you have to know which company you're dealing with to know if it is a cost-cutting or quality measure. I'd ask a few questions about the manufacturer. I would never buy a Montecristi with anything other than a traditional backweave.
 

Rodkins

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2,444
Location
Orlando
Here's a pic of one that just sold on ebay for around $218. You can see the stitching on the edge of the brim. Granted it was a vintage hat but with all due respect to the seller, you got a heck of a sale on that one. IMHO.
So I'm hoping I'm not stepping on any toes here if the seller and buyer are lounge members, but one of the purposes of the lounge is to educate it's members. Now if I'm seeing something in these photos that is wrong, I'll do an honest and humble retraction, but it sure looks like a sewn edge to me.
mallorycomp2.jpg


fedoralover
If that's the Mallory Cravenette straw that just sold I would have loved to be the owner of that folded and sewn brim. It just went too high for me. What a cool hat, though.
 
Messages
15,077
Location
Buffalo, NY
If that's the Mallory Cravenette straw that just sold I would have loved to be the owner of that folded and sewn brim. It just went too high for me. What a cool hat, though.

It is a stunning hat, Here is a link to the completed auction listing, which has very good pictures. Congrats to the seller and the purchaser.
 

Neophyte

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,445
Location
Chattanooga, TN
PanamaBob, on your Gambler model it looks like a folded-over brim, but the picture on the website's to small to see it well. Could you give any details on this?
 

Panamabob

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2,012
Location
Fort Wayne, Indiana
PanamaBob, on your Gambler model it looks like a folded-over brim, but the picture on the website's to small to see it well. Could you give any details on this?

The ebay hat gamblers are with a fold over. I didn't ask for that, but that's what they sent.

Montecristis are never and the Cuenca page Gamblers aren't either.

Someone is working on my site, so we'll see what magic he has in improving the photos.
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
On one hand, the folded over brim is a shortcut from some companies in Cuenca....and I tell them that. They try to save $.50 per hat by doing that. Some of the hats we bought from a new supplier this year were about 50/50 folded over/regular backweave. I tried to make it clear to them that I don't want it done that way in the future.

On the other hand, companies like Dorfzaun, use a process that makes the hat look quite nice from the underside and they fold over/sew to bring uniformity to the brims. They finish a nice hat, so compared to the company in the first paragraph, they can put out hats that cost less and look like a million bucks, a la Borsalino.

On the third hand (what?), you've got companies who use the backweave and zigzag sew for strength. These are some of my favorite hats.

I'm with Tomasso on this, you have to know which company you're dealing with to know if it is a cost-cutting or quality measure. I'd ask a few questions about the manufacturer. I would never buy a Montecristi with anything other than a traditional backweave.

Bob, thanks for the info.

fedoralover
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
On one hand, the folded over brim is a shortcut from some companies in Cuenca....and I tell them that. They try to save $.50 per hat by doing that. Some of the hats we bought from a new supplier this year were about 50/50 folded over/regular backweave. I tried to make it clear to them that I don't want it done that way in the future.

On the other hand, companies like Dorfzaun, use a process that makes the hat look quite nice from the underside and they fold over/sew to bring uniformity to the brims. They finish a nice hat, so compared to the company in the first paragraph, they can put out hats that cost less and look like a million bucks, a la Borsalino.

On the third hand (what?), you've got companies who use the backweave and zigzag sew for strength. These are some of my favorite hats.

I'm with Tomasso on this, you have to know which company you're dealing with to know if it is a cost-cutting or quality measure. I'd ask a few questions about the manufacturer. I would never buy a Montecristi with anything other than a traditional backweave.

This lower end 1960/70s Mayser (Germany) is most likely is a Dorfzaun and it is a cut under welt. I am not sure if it was blocked and finished by Mayser.

4557246329_557cfbc259_b.jpg


This late 1960/70s Wegener (Germany) also is cut and probably a Dorfzaun. This one was probably blocked and finished by Wegener. By the way I know Roberto Dorfzaun.

4328379974_eb42d960ba_b.jpg
 
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