Panama Hat Thread

[rlk]

The Carter sweatband unbuttons for removal . The metal discs are buttons that go through button holes.

When I first looked under the sweatband, the first thing that happened was the 7 1/4 size tag crumbled into three pieces. The sweatband itself is in good shape and the straw fibers don't feel brittle. I found two small metals discs, as shown in the photo, with the word Carter on them. One on each side--at first I thought it was just support for the bow but when I saw the other one, I was guessing just overall sweatband supports. There's some pencil marks under the attachment area for the one, you can see some of the initials. Appears to be ACA and then TGC.

When I looked under the front of the sweatband, I saw the Carter company imprint, so I guess they must have been doing blocking and sweatband installation for Cavanagh. I'm not familiar with the name, perhaps someone else is?

The hat is a 7 1/4. Although my wife said it seems to "fit you fine," it does ride high on my head and I have no intent of placing this one on the stretcher. Been thinking this is a good candidate for a cleaning and reblocking. If I went to a 7 3/8, any line from the current brim crown juncture would surely be covered up by the sweatband...at least that is my guess. Brim is about 2 1/4" right now, the crown just shy of 5".

Bernie

 

[RBH]

A sneak preview. Better (non night time) photos out tomorrow...stay tuned...

Bob - it looks like and smells (sulphur) like a Montecristi - I thought semi Calados were only made in Cuenca...did you get me an ultra rare Montecristi calado!?

Damn!!!
I do like a wider brim... but this looks nice!!!!!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[XPLSV]

The Carter sweatband unbuttons for removal . The metal discs are buttons that go through button holes.

Ah...I had failed to notice that. Pretty neat! :eusa_clap

 

[Aureliano]

Hi guys,

I'm curious to know your opinions about the subjec of brims in panama hats (non-montecristis)
I own a Borsalino panama and it has an overwelt brim and it's a nice brisa weave.
I see other hats that have an underwelt brim.
Is this also a factor that determines the price of a hat? or is it, just like felt hats, a matter of preference?
Does it depend on the type of weave how the weavers finish brims?
thanks for you your coments.
Aureliano-

 

[duggap]

The Monticristi hats are all hand done and the edge of the brim is "back woven" in to the hat. Makes a very nice looking finish. In Cuenca, where they make a less expensive hat with machine finishing, they will fold over the brim and sew it. There have even been some with brim bindings sew on.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Just to add to what duggap wrote; there have been, and are, plenty of very nice Cuencas with back woven brims too. Not all Cuencas get the hem, but never would you see a Montechristi with a welted and sewn brim edge.

 

[Panamabob]

Folded and sewn brims happen to make standard brim sizes. Look at the Borsalinos in many shops, folded and sewn (oops, just noticed that Aureliano mentioned it). Brim sizing issues are very hard to deal with, so I understand why they cut and sew to make specific models have specific length brims, plus I'm sure it saves a dollar or two.

As Gene said, Cuencas do have a backweave to the edge. I find this more the norm than the fold and sew from some factories and vice-versa from others.

One of the guys I use leaves the backweave in and reinforces it with invisible thread (a la Indycop's last winning hat). Another I use will never cut and sew. Still another leaves it up to the buyer. But, if you want 2 3/4 inch brims, you'd better opt for the fold and sew, or you'll have brims all over the board in size. I'm speaking from experience. You'll tell the factory that the order is wrong and you'll get 100 reasons why you were wrong and not them. Those who've been to Latin America may understand! Lighthearted, not angry at Ecuador/Ecuadorians today.

 

[Aureliano]

This is the hat in question. Not the best as I have been learning through Gene's advise.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv310/aureliano_bnd/DSC04028.jpg

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

...I have been learning through Gene's advise.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv310/aureliano_bnd/DSC04028.jpg

Thanks for the credit but anything and everything I know of such matters I've learned in the last couple of years from the knowledgeable members/vendors here at this forum.

 

[Carlisle Blues]

aureliano this is a Borso Cuenca I bought at Bencraft years ago

where did you get yours??

 

[Aureliano]

Hi Carlisle,
I got mine at cappelleria mutinelli in Milano, Italia.
I can't tell how the brim of yours is finished by the picture (using an iPhone)
is it folded up and sewn?

 

[Carlisle Blues]

Hi Carlisle,
I got mine at cappelleria mutinelli in Milano, Italia.
I can't tell how the brim of yours is finished by the picture (using an iPhone)
is it folded up and sewn?

Yes it is ..I really like the weave it is Llano and this is my dressiest Cuenca.

 

[carouselvic]

Panama Back Weave

Monte back weave


Cuenca

 

[Panamabob]

Some brim edges:

Company A's Natural Brisa with backweave:

Company B's Brisa folded and sewn under:

Company B's Fino Brisa with backweave:

Company C's Llano with backweave and sewn reinforcement:

Company C's Natural llano with backweave:

Company D's Natural llano folded under and sewn:

Standard Montecristi Backweave:

 

[Aureliano]

Yes it is ..I really like the weave it is Llano and this is my dressiest Cuenca.

I wonder if the upward fold and sew is a Borsalino thing...
mine is a brisa weave, I think...

 

[Carlisle Blues]

I wonder if the upward fold and sew is a Borsalino thing...

I do not know, but, my Stetson Center Dents are downward folds and a lower grade. I wear them just about every day they are my "beaters"; so to speak.

 

[Aureliano]

do you have a different shot of your borsalino?

 

[Carlisle Blues]

do you have a different shot of your borsalino?

I will work on that. I should post within a couple of days.

 

[Aureliano]

ok!

 

[Carlisle Blues]

This is my Cuenca collection:

Stetson center Dents are on the left. Borso 3d from left and an errant Stetson Shantung "Gus" (comes in handy on very bright days)

I will do the Borso close ups