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Oxford Bags

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
Something about the waistband bothers me. It looks like there are too many layers of fabric. Especially the one in heavy wool looks wonky. I think it has something to do with how they work the seam allowance into the waistband. Vintage trousers usually have much neater waistbands than modern reproductions. Can anyone of the chaps with tailoring experience explain what is going on there?

grey%20heavy%20herringbone%20oxf.bags.detail_thumbs.jpg
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Rudie,

Having looked at those trousers again, I agree. The waistband is too chunky. It appears to borrow it's style from a combination of the 1970s Oxford Bags and American 'collegiate pants' (with a military style button over belt loop thrown into the mix).
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
It might have something to do with what interfacing they use in the waistband, what sort of lining/lining construction is used, and if the seam allowance is pressed open or upwards into the waistband, as it sometimes is.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Interesting that's what you all pick up on.... that was the bit that threw me, and yes- it was the 70s / Collegiate pants issue that threw me too. Pity, as otherwise they look great. Nice looking drape, and not a crazy price.... eh, well! Keep looking...
 

Hyena Stomp

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
Rhode Island
Thought I'd share; I'm not sure that these actually qualify as bags, but they're baggy and collegiate anyway... from the 1930's, of course:

IMG_94181.jpg


IMG_9422.jpg


They remind me in fit of the pants in this Leyendecker painting from 1937 called "First Long Suit":

bags.jpg
 

Hyena Stomp

One of the Regulars
Messages
151
Location
Rhode Island
^Those are nice. I love the baggy style, it's so different than the modern "slim fit" that's so en vogue these days. I wish vintage ones were a bit more common; the pair I posted (also part of a suit, although the jacket's one size too big for me) is really the only pair I've personally ever found for purchase.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
This is a photo of Granda Marlowe, take from his driving licence for 19th March 1935 to 18th March 1936. Yes, in northern Ireland even back then we had photo-driving licences (they were a de facto form of ID for decades). This is the only one I've ever seen with a full-length photograph, though! The fact that it appears on a dated document gives us some idea of when the image was made. It's reasonable to assume it was taken fairly close to the date the licence was issued; the tweeds and his apparent ease suggest to me this was taken on a mild day in late February or early March 1935. The trousers, the reason for posting here, do look to be Oxford Bags.

969430_10151518944597260_1755391114_n.jpg


I wish I knew what colours were being worn here. I'd love to replicate this outfit. Absolutely perfect. He was such a sharp dresser. Sadly, he died when I was only five, so we never got to talk wardrobe.
 

BR Gordon

One Too Many
Messages
1,152
Location
New Mexico
To my untrained eye, this appear to be oxford bags that men actually wore, not the clown trousers that one so often sees. Very nice photo.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
tbh, they look like mid-30s suit trousers.

Yeah, trousers were generally wide at that point. I think they fall within the ballpark for sizing on the Oxford Bags, though (if memory serves, the genuine bags were anywhere between 18" and 22" at the ankle), and this is reminiscent of the general Oxford look - photos I've seen, anyhow. Either way, I would have to have those pieces now. They were probably worn until they wore out, I'd have thought.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
nice photo Edward. they look like typical 11" bottom wide legged trousers (probably flannel), and whether all 11" bottom 30-40s trousers qualify as 'Oxford Bags' is still open for debate.
for my money, Oxford bags have to be either the original 'blanket bag' boating trouser, or something much wider than 11"... which unfortunately we've yet to see an actual example of.
 

DamianM

Vendor
Messages
2,055
Location
Los Angeles
I have a pair of Cream flannels with a patent date of 1926 on the inside waistband. maybe something to do with the stiffness of it.
They are at 11" maybe a little more. Its very interesting to see were a pair of slacks become the oxford bags and are Fluffies an alternate "bag" as well
I've read the whole discussion but still there is no definite answer.
 

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