Optimal Weight/Thickness

[Superfluous]

Lately, I have observed an underlying notion that subtly permeates many posts here: the thicker/heavier the leather, the better the jacket. I personally do not subscribe to the “thicker is better” school of thought (resist the Bevis/Butthead responses). Rather, IMHO, there is an optimal thickness/weight that balances both durability/robustness and comfort/wearability. At the risk of stating the obvious, this optimal point/balance is entirely subjective and dependent on personal circumstances and uses. Those who ride motorcycles often prefer thicker/heavier leather. Conversely, those who live in milder climates often prefer thinner/lighter leather.

Excluding paper thin mall leathers and the like, do you believe that thicker/heavier leather equates to better quality? Is a 2.5 oz leather jacket inherently inferior quality to a 3.5 oz leather jacket? Is there a limit at which point the thickness/weight becomes counterproductive? Have you found that limit?

All other things being equal, what is your optimal thickness/weight for a leather jacket? Why?

 

[navetsea]

I like thick hide as it creates fat creases pattern and how it rest on the shoulder and body instead of floating as I move around, I don't like sheep because they are thin and any surface wear on it that on thicker hide would be seen as character would make a weak point leading to a hole or rip on lamb and sheepskin.

 

[nick123]

Weight is not indicative of better quality. It is simply a choice of leather going into a jacket. There may be some kind of enhanced utility by wearing a heavy jacket (more bang for the buck feeling), but I’m sure a horrible jacket can be made from heavy leather. Probably quality of leather chosen/tanning plays the important role there. The leather thickness can’t possibly be an indication of quality (excluding the extra, specialized labor involved in working with the heavier material, which I suppose can be an attribute of higher quality).

I’d be willing to estimate that if broken down statistically, jackets made from heavier/thicker would be more often found in “not concerned with fashion” markets. Perhaps the scarcity of heavy-leathered jackets compared with thin, fashion jackets gives the impression that a heavy jacket “must be made by people who are a step away from the mass-produced mall herd”, giving the thicker jacket a bit of a feel of exclusivity to the wearer, which may reinforce feelings of quality.

Whoops, mentioned mall jackets lol. But I think it applies universally to any weight.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Good points Nick.

Coming from a warmer climate and wanting leather jackets as windbreakers not as cold weather wear, I find even 2.5 oz to be a formidable weight. I have collected, bought and sold jackets for 35 years. I've owned a lot of 3oz and 2oz custom made jackets. There is not difference in terms of longevity or robustness although for a bike rider thickness may have safety advantages.

Years of steer hide, cowhide, goat, sheepskin, and the occasional horse hide tells me that how the jacket wears is more important that whatever the look may be on buying the thing. Leathers made to look lustrous when new may not look as good in a few years as leather which initially looks bland and plastic. Experience has taught me that.

My favourite jackets have often been poorly made (errant stitching and mismatched panels) and the leather has been thin and unremarkable - like the Brooks cafe racer. But these have been some of the coolest looking jackets by design and age. The older I get the less interest I have in reproduction jackets - this is a whole separate fetish.

I also think that there are different types of leather jacket aficionados, chasing different dreams and having different needs. To lump us all together or to argue about tastes misses the point. I would no sooner wear a cross zip 3.5 oz steer hide bike jacket than a silver mesh body suit. Nothing wrong with it but it's not my aesthetic.

My favourite thickness is 2.2 oz.

 

[Harris HTM]

I think there are also other factors that should be taken into account before we reach a conclusion - fit, grain, stiffness, durability, tan method, etc.
I currently own 7 leather jackets (5 aero's and 2 schott's), with weight ranging from 2.5oz to 3.5 oz. I live in a rather cold climate and I have noticed that the hide weight does not affect how warm the jacket feels, it is the lining that keeps me warm. I guess that for warmer climates the thickness does play a role.
How comfortable a jacket feels is strongly dependent on the fit. My 3.5oz sz38 FQHH Mariner (actually a leather peacoat) feels more comfortable than my 2.5oz Vicenza sz36 Happy Days. I love both hides, if I were to order again I would be really in doubt. Probably for a tight fit such as a cafe racer I'd go with a 2.5oz hide. For anything else I'd choose a 3.5oz steer or horse.
I still haven't tried the Shinki leather for which I have read nothing but praise; I guess that if I ever can afford such a hide then maybe I'll change my mind!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Yep it's worth stating that thickness/weight of hide really makes a difference to your warmth if you live in a warmer climate. If your average weather is 65 degrees, you really feel the difference between 2.5 and 3 oz hide.

In the cold I don't wear leather as it is not warm enough. So sadly for me in my town it is often too warm and sometimes too cold for a leather jacket.

 

[navetsea]

I can wear thick or thin hide in my area all year long as long as the lining fabrics is just simple thin cotton, but I will not touch thick denim jacket, insulated or wool sweater or pleather because I would drench in sweat immediately

 

[Mich486]

There is a bit this line of thinking amongst workwear aficionados that thicker is always better. Super thick denim, thick leather etc.

I think this is partly a response to crappy high street fashion and it understandable that as you discover quality clothing you start enjoying weights unknown to your previous shopping experience.

After a while into this though I find very heavy stuff as unnecessary as paper thin stuff. I personally find Aero CXL the upper bound of what I want to wear in terms of leather and I decided to set for max 14oz denim.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jacketjunkie]

Thickness certainly does not equal quality, it can be a indicator for durability though. However I believe any hide from 2.5 oz upwards is durable enough to outlast any of us if properly cared for. Anything heavier than that is just personal taste and aesthetics, unless you are a rider who needs serious protection. I like 3.5 oz because it wears very different to lighter hides, I just prefer the looks of how it sits on my body and drapes around it.

There's certainly a limit though. Anything beyond 4 oz can become painful to wear. My Aero 4.5 oz 10 lbs HWM is actually so heavy that it hurts my shoulders if I wear it for too long, same thing with my 5 oz Cal Leather. Optimal range for me is 3.5-4 oz, I wouldn't go heavier than that again.

 

[dan_t]

About the only time I’d insist on a heavy hide (and first rate stitching) is when I’m considering what is between my flesh & the road surface.
Other than riding a bike, everything else is subjective.

I love my Aero heavy Steer, goat & Vicenza hides equally but all for very different reasons.
Favourite? The one that’s on my back

 

[JMax]

I prefer thicker hides. The feel of the weight, the drape, and the protection from possible road gremlins. I just like to know I am wearing it.

I ride, but I also live in south Florida. When I do wear leather during the summer here, think long rides on the freeway, I get funny looks. Admittedly there are days when a jacket is too much, no matter the thickness or liner. For those days I don a leather vest. Of course, it is heavy. You get used to sweating.

I do have some thinner hides but most of my thin jackets are basic denim or cotton. As are my thinner vests.

 

[ton312]

When I first started reading this forum there were two things that stood out as making a high quality leather jacket. A one piece back and heavy CXL. Shinki wasn't even a thing and if it was, it was so seldom mentioned that I can't recall it's presence prior to 2012...It's funny that the idea of a one piece back has almost completely vanished and the notion of that somehow equating to superior quality vanished along with it. I do equate heavier leather with superior quality but I don't think it's actually true or can be proven. The heavier hides do form more meaningful creases from what I've seen and I like the way they mold to the body. I like my jackets to mold to my form, not drape around it. I started collecting vintage leather jackets in my 20's and it wasn't until I got my hands on a Vanson that I realized there's something unique from Brimaco and Brooks, hell even Bates floating around (don't get me wrong, I love those makers). I do think it's worth noting, as has been mentioned, the folks living in warmer climates tend to prefer the lighter hides, while folks like myself who live in colder climates for a good portion of the year tend prefer heavier hides (not universally of course).

I've tried on a few Shinki jackets and I just don't get the same feeling I do when I put on comp weight or CXL. I don't think that makes those hides superior but I do know they are my preference. Even the HH from Thedi felt to light for my liking...I also think the weight issue is overblown and often is the result of a poor fitting jacket. When I've had CXL or comp weight jackets sized too small they were a real drag to wear. My first Aero (purchased used) was promptly sold and I cursed CXL for it's awful nature but that was entirely based on the jacket being a least one size too small. Now...there isn't really any other hide that gets my attention.

 

[El Marro]

For me I think anything between 3 to 3.5 oz is optimal. When purchasing my first leather jackets, I have to admit that I bought into the idea that the heavier the leather the better the jacket must be. Now that I own a number of jackets, most of them heavy and some of them light, I have come to value fit and pattern much more than weight. I still like the heavier leather, but only if it fits well and is easy to move around in.

 

[Guppy]

Of course there's such a thing as too thick. And thickness is not itself a mark of quality. That said, I generally prefer heavier leathers, not always, and not for every purpose, but usually.

 

[dannyk]

I don’t have nearly the collection or years of buying as a lot of others on this site. But again as has been stated many times it depends on the make, and purpose of the jacket. But also mentioned it’s also the tanning process and finish on the jacket that can make a world of difference. I have a Vanson in Comp. Weight that is a beast and I love. I also had a thin goat and a thin Schott Horsehide. I finally found my perfect balance in a Schott 613sh. Which is a legit 3.5oz horsehide. It’s super thick but the hides used on it and the tanning process make it very supple and easily broken in. If I’m riding or in a bar fight I’ll take the Vanson. For me not being a regular rider as I live in WNY where it’s winter for 6 months ha and not being a barroom brawler having a 3.5oz thickness but tanned and finished in a supple manner is my go too right now.

 

[Monitor]

Saw a dude whose leather jacket got caught on a door knob and tore wide open. And I'm not talking about the stitches, no. The leather just ripped open. Didn't seem like much of a jacket to begin with but it was still leather. First adjective on the Wikipedia page for leather is "durable". Not even the lousiest denim would tear like that. Can't imagine anything would. Poor man was in near tears after realizing what has happened.
Told myself after that, nope, no lightweight leather for me, thank you.

Heavy leather is a sign of quality to me, quality in a sense that it will, or should at least, withstand more punishment than light(er) leather. Which is how I would ordinarily define the word quality but. . . I won't.

So it all depends. 2.5 oz leather will suffice and 3.5 oz leather won't make much of a difference. But the same could be said for many things in life and there will always be people out there that will obsess over these things. Like car people. It's just a car I always say, an automated carriage that's supposed to take you from one place to another but some people insist that some cars are better than the others.

Either way, I haven't noticed that mid weight and heavy weight leather will have any considerable effect on how the jacket will fit. Nor on insulation. Leather jackets are equally useless on a hot, or a cold day. The lightest black leather jacket becomes an oven after a while even under the relatively mild sun. Same as it is perhaps wiser to wear anything but a leather jacket on a freezing day. They somehow seem to amplify the cold. . .

One thing, though - I wouldn't feel comfortable paying more money for a lighter jacket than what a heavier one costs, as I wouldn't be entirely sure what exactly I actually am paying for. But again, that's just me.

 

[Hh121]

Sorry, but I refuse to wear any jacket with thickness less than 3.5oz, with exception of horween cxl 3oz horsehide.
Any thing less than 5 lbs(Aero size 38-40) I wouldn't even call a LEATHER jacket.

 

[Justhandguns]

I am in the camp of thickness not equal to quality. There are simply so many factors involved. The thickness of leather should be 'fit for purpose', weather it due to repro authenticity or practical purposes. There are also design and manufacturing considerations, it takes skills to manipulate thick hides as you literally have to hammer them in order to fold them at the seams and edges, that might explain why mall jackets tends to be a lot thinner. Regarding the optimal thickness, I would presume different hides have different optima, you can't possible compare goat skin against the horse anyway.

 

[handymike]

I agree that different jackets work in different thicknesses. I like Horween Cxl for certain models, shinki for some, and Thedi's softer hides for others. IF I lived in a colder place my opinion would probably be different. I have learned that in most cases I prefer Steerhide to Horsehide.

 

[Edward]

Many years ago, I cut my leather jacket teeth on bike leathers - not as a rider, but they happened to be the style I liked. Back in the 80s, decent bike jacket were generally pretty hefty; this was prior to the invention of the now-common d30 type armour pads. That and they had to be heavy to copy with those ridiculously outsized zippers that were fashionable on 'em....

Over the years, I've become more open minded to different types of leathers for different things. I still enjoy a hefty bike jacket, but for travelling to warmer climes and/or during Summer, no heavy leather can come close to a Wested Indy in goat for practicality. I have no idea what any of my jacket weigh, and I don't have any set requirements on minimum or maximum weight I'll wear. Simply fitness for purpose, appropriateness for season, and so on.

When I first started reading this forum there were two things that stood out as making a high quality leather jacket. A one piece back and heavy CXL.

Yes, it's amazing how even in a place dedicated to a fixed point in time, fashions can still come and go!

Saw a dude whose leather jacket got caught on a door knob and tore wide open. And I'm not talking about the stitches, no. The leather just ripped open. Didn't seem like much of a jacket to begin with but it was still leather. First adjective on the Wikipedia page for leather is "durable". Not even the lousiest denim would tear like that. Can't imagine anything would. Poor man was in near tears after realizing what happened.
Told myself after that, nope, no lightweight leather for me, thank you.

Sounds like lamb. I tend to avoid lamb because it's just so fragile, and I'm a klutz.

One thing, though - I wouldn't feel comfortable paying more money for a lighter jacket than what a heavier one costs, as I wouldn't be entirely sure what exactly I actually am paying for. But again, that's just me.

Th psychology of this is fascinating. Not that I claim to be rational about it either -I struggle to comprehend spending "leather jacket money" on nylon, for example.