Opinions on Fit

[Bucket]

Greeting all. I haven't been on the forum for quite some time ... I've been out of the custom leather jacket scene for a bit. I've collected a closet full of ill fitting jackets and the struggle to find the right fit had slowly beaten me down to the point where I questioned whether I am intended to wear a custom jacket.

But after taking a break, I've got the bug and I'm willing to give it a go once again to find the jacket to end all jackets ... a simple black car coat.

My #1 priority with all jackets is it has to be functional. I have to be able to wear it buttoned / zipped and still be able to extend my arms, without the sleeves riding all the way up or being too tight that I'm ripping the leather / pulling the seems out of the shoulder/arm holes. My #2 priority is that is has to have a slimmer profile. I don't want to look like I'm wearing a tent or that the jacket is wearing me.

I know these priorities often times conflict with one another, hence my extensive closet of ill fitting jackets. In the past, I've opted for a roomier fit to allow for more freedom of movement but when the jacket arrives my first impression is always that it is too big. I never give it enough time to break in to see how it will eventually fall, rather I sell it to purchase a size down. This inevitably results in a jacket that looks great, but is too tight to perform well.

I am 5'7" and weigh about 160 -165 lbs, I'm active and athletic and weight train 4 times a week. I'm 50 years old, so I'm not expecting that I will be putting on any major muscle anytime soon. I have broader shoulders and a slimmer torso (30" waist). I typically wear a 39S in suits. I am literally a 39, so every 38 i have purchased i feel like I am busting out of the back shoulder seams .... and every 40 typically feels at least an inch bigger everywhere.

I recently purchased a Lost Worlds Hemi in a size 40R, I am torn on whether the jacket is too big and I need to purchase a 38R or if I should keep the jacket and give it time to break in. I'm nervous to return it for a smaller size because of past custom jacket experiences.

I think the shoulders fit well, but there is bit more room under the arms than I prefer.

Would love your thoughts.
Thanks.

 

[Monitor]

Hi! Seems roomy to me but I'm not sure what's the proper way these ought to fit. I really don't know, just seems a bit large, is all.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

If you want an honest opinion, way too big. Sleeves are long by a good 2 inches. Definitely off a size or two in chest and body. Length seems long too but I'm not a peacoat guy. And shoulders are too wide.

I'm not too familiar with LW sizing but every time something has caught my eye, it does seem to run big for the stated "size".

Honestly, you might be able to do a 36R in that thing assuming there's a steady clip in how the measurements come down.

 

[Guppy]

It looks like a raincoat, is that what you're going for? Definitely too big, in any case.

 

[MrProper]

To be honest... clearly too big for my taste.

 

[Will Zach]

Two sizes too big. Sleeves 2" too long. Body way too wide. Too bad somebody like Greg Field does not do peacoats, he has European sensibilities when it comes to cuts - most of his jackets are slim cuts, which I think you are going for. Give him a shout. Maybe send him your favorite ill fitting jackets as a starter, along with your pics and measurements. Off the rack sizing may not work for you, as you are on the shorter side, but athletic with broad shoulders.

 

[El Marro]

Too big for sure. I also think that this is a tough style to get right because you do not want it too tight either.

 

[handymike]

It’s not doing you any favors!

 

[Bfd70]

Too big. While i love the look of the lost worlds i think their leather will be to heavy to drape properly in that style. Have you considered a teamster for improved functionality?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-teamster.83282/page-2

 

[jglf]

Way too big. Jacket makes it seem like you have a belly and not a 30in waist. Tough jacket style to be functional and look tailored.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Bucket Down sizing will not work if you are athletic built. This coat style has straight boxy torso. You are V shaped, so best find patterns that has bigger chest to waist drops. Your size 40 LW Hemi coat probably measures 22” ish at the chest and straight down to 22” at the hem right? Going down one size to 38 will still bag out at the bottom and it won’t work for your shoulders/back. You could have this coat brought in at the waist. Given 30” pant size, you are looking for 18” ish waist measurement that flares out to 19” ish at the hem. I’m 32” pant size and I shoot for 19” at the (natural) waist and 20” at the hem for a close fit.

I had the exact same problem you have now with my old SB coat. It was 23” chest and 23” hem. If I go down one size the shoulder/back doesn’t work. So I had it tapered down to 20” hem.

 

[AeroFan_07]

It's a nice coat, just like others have said it is much too large and may not fit your body type all that well.
Wish I had better news for you.

 

[TREEMAN]

NG…

 

[Superfluous]

Ignore the prior posts. The fit is perfect . . . if you are smuggling a small family across the border under your jacket.

 

[BlueSteel]

I am not one to criticize or to generalize on fits, but since you are seeking feedback my view is that coat is quite a bit too big for you.

I feel like car coats can be a bit tough because if they are not perfectly sized and proportioned, they can hide/mask the fact that there is a fit guy under there...but I have seen some makers/styles that do it right - especially custom ones.

I am bad at photos, but below is a pic of a custom leather car coat/utility coat (29" from base of collar to back bottom hem) I stumbled upon at a consignment store in Vancouver - bought it because despite my lack of fitness, this jacket really was flattering and fit me great (IMHO).

The jacket was made by a custom maker called Ocean Drive in Vancouver (more famous for making leather pieces for movie and TV shoots).

OD 3

• BlueSteel
• Aug 25, 2021

 

[Salmosalar]

Looks far too big, but I think it is not just the sizing that is not working for you here - I think the pattern is a poor fit to your physique and the material is not ideal for getting a nice drape either, which is more important in these longer jackets/coats. I would recommend going custom tbh and discussing with the maker what you want - but as a couple of suggestions to get the ball rolling, I would definitely look for more of a taper to the waist rather than the strange tubular cut of this - you could have it flare out a bit below the waist even for ease of movement, but having it more cinched around the waist will make it fit much better and you are also not then carrying around reams of extra leather that adds weight but not function. I would think about having a full belt in this length too. The final thing I would suggest is trying a lighter, more flexible, hide - goat or sheep (not sheepskin/shearling) would both drape much better, so long as you can get it in a suitable size. Good luck!

 

[Mich486]

Would you ever walk out from a shop with a jacket fitting like this? I guess not… at least I know I wouldn’t.

Imho you can do much better buying OTR. Some people say you need to go custom and tweak here and there… honestly it looks like you have an average body shape so I’m not convinced that’s necessarily the best route.

 

[Carlos840]

This is definitely one if not two sizes too big.
The shoulders are falling off, the arms are too long, the body of the jacket is too wide and too long, no amount of break in will fix that.
Is that the size Stuart recommended?

 

[ton312]

This is just entirely too large. Even for a jacket designed to layer underneath. If this is a 40”, you need a 36”. I don’t think a 38” will adequately reduce the proportions enough.

 

[Canoe]

I have a LW Bedford that has similar fit issues when wearing a light shirt underneath. If I were to go down one more size it might correct the sleeve length but it would compromise the shoulders and likely the chest.

Is the fit purpose built? I can't say. I can actually move in the coat which I can't say for a handful of others that I have. If I put my arms out like I am grasping the steering wheel of old convertible the sleeves hit just right. This last bit are my own ramblings hinting at justification for the fit in my own mind...