Being succinct is a virtue but any virtue when taken to extremes, becomes a vice.....I guess you're asking which option would be best.
Short answer: personal preference, decide for yourself. Me, I'd go for FQHH with the tweed or alpaca if you need thermal insulation. If temperature is not a factor then I'd pick a tartan liner.
One of each. Personally if I could only have one I would go with a size just big enough to still allow a sweater.
Leather would depend on if you want to break in a jacket or not. Some like it a little stiff and some like softer.
Linings I am fairly open. Haven't really seen one in a quality jacket that I haven't liked. I do have black drill and it is great.
As a wise man once said to me,
"A jacket which fits spot-on leaves one impressed with his eyes. A jacket which is cut with room for layering leaves one warm and confident in his utilitarian ways".
As a wise man once said to me,
"A jacket which fits spot-on leaves one impressed with his eyes. A jacket which is cut with room for layering leaves one warm and confident in his utilitarian ways".
It depends on the jacket. I personally would not go a size up on an Aero Thirties Halfbelt, or similar pattern. Such jacket were designed and cut to be worn neat, and to my eye they look over-sized and 'wrong' when worn big to fit in a sweater. An Aero Fifties halfbelt or something along those lines, with a more generous cut, might work. Personally, for something to go over a sweater, I'd be looking at something that is boxier by design, like a Highwayman.
Another thing to consider... when are you likely to wear this? By the time it is cold enough to require a sweater in addition to the jacket, will you really be all that likely to be reaching for a short leather jacket, or will you always by preference reach for the long, wool overcoat? Versatility is all very well, but if you compromise on something you really want in order to make it more versatile, then never use that flexibility, there seems little point to me. All comes down to what you really want.
I agree with Edward. Stay away from compensating with slimmer models by sizing up. I tried and failed hard! If you want a jacket to fit roomier then go with the HWYMN or 50's HB in your size. There will be room.
I think that was what I was trying to get at in a very brief way. If you're going to have one jacket - though given this place's masterful enabling skills, that's unlikely - then I'd go for a style that has enough flexibility in it to see you through the seasons, such as the ones mentioned above, without compromising the fit. Also, I like the tweed lining.
Thanks for all the opinions! I actually decided right after I posted, guess I just needed to see it typed out in front of me. Went with option 2. Jacket is a 50's aero half belt. Will only be wearing this in the Fall/Winter Northeast, NJ / NYC. Tweed liner is plus and I want to wear it comfortably right away without heavy breakin. Pit-pit might be a bit wide initially but I will attempt the spot treatment of hot water / low heat hair dryer.
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