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Open Road/Shaping
- Thread starter Giddyap
- Start date
Are you sure the dent in the front is by design? Sometimes hats dent in other spots. There are a few scenes in the 1944 movie "Laura" the main characters hat dents in the back weirdly.
But if you want it by design a bit of steam will help. Hold the hat with both hands in the side dents. Then steam the front carefully. Use both of your thumbs to crease the dent from center to the sides. At least that's how I would do it.
But if you want it by design a bit of steam will help. Hold the hat with both hands in the side dents. Then steam the front carefully. Use both of your thumbs to crease the dent from center to the sides. At least that's how I would do it.
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What you're showing is commonly called a "mule kick," and that specifically refers to the dent in the front.
I'm putting out the @Hurricane Jack signal, as he's got all of these Western creases down cold. With any luck, he'll include a handy-dandy illustration of the various creases.
I'm putting out the @Hurricane Jack signal, as he's got all of these Western creases down cold. With any luck, he'll include a handy-dandy illustration of the various creases.
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The dent in the front of the crown is called a “mule kick” and it’s easy to pinch in and then steam to set.
The hat does not look like an open road to me. The brim looks too wide and the brim edge looks to be raw rather than bound. Could be one of dozens of models from almost as many makers.
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It's a Rancher crease with a Mule kick in front. Bigger than an OR, a Rancher crease is usually seen on Brims 3" & wider. Center dent is wider & more squared up than an OR crease. I use a length of 3/8 - 1/2" dowl rod to level & press in the Mule kick.
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Thanks Jim. I appreciate the compliment!
Should most hat stores know what a mule kick is and how to shape one?
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Of course. If you are buying a new hat any Western Wear or hat shop will shape it for you. It’s not difficult.
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I don't know everything. I just know enough people who know things to cover most of the bases.
And that, my friends, is the secret to successful project management, LOL.
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And being able to think on your feet.
We both know that CE's can range from being nothing more than glorified salesmen to doing pretty good for themselves, depending on their field. After graduation the guys I knew to get "financially comfortable" the quickest were petroleum engineers. It was probably just the times.
Just to be clear...
If I buy this hat, I can have it shaped to identically match the original pic? - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stetson-Ra...878939?hash=item2389ed329b:g:1FkAAOSwJVxZd41m
In this pic, am I looking at the front or the back of the hat?
Aerielle Max
One of the Regulars
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Wow, this is an interesting discussion. Definitely will give this a follow.
jlee562
I'll Lock Up
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you should more or less be able to get that look. The modern hats with pressed in creases are not the most shapeable, but I'd imagine most western hat shops have done such a shaping. This hat likely has a wider brim than the original pic.
On men's hats, the bow is traditionally placed on the left side (when being worn that is). You're looking at the front. Notice the difference between the shape of the "trough" formed by the center crease.
T Jones
I'll Lock Up
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Here's my version of an M-1899 campaign hat I started sometime back. Like some of the old photos of the era I put the mule kick on mine. The crease I put in mine is similar to a cattleman except the crown is higher in the back with a lower front. One of these days I'll get around to getting it finished.
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Rmccamey
I'll Lock Up
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Good advice here but, as we have had this discussion with another member recently, it's worth repeating. Any hat shop, and many western wear stores, should be able to shape a hat to get very close to your examples. I caution, however, not to get hung up on having "an exact replica". Get the hat you want but understand that every hat and every felt is going to have it's own character. If the mule kick is a little deeper or a little shallow, or of the side brim is a little higher or lower, it will still look great. It's your hat so put some of your personality into it and don't get hung up on some strict definition of "an identical hat".
I have a more subtle mule kick in my Beaver Brand hat.
I have a more subtle mule kick in my Beaver Brand hat.
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The 6X has a 4" brim whereas the hat you are wanting to clone is in the range of 3-1/4 - 3-1/2", so the ratio of brim & crown will look different together. As Jared pointed out the 6X with factory pressed crease can be as hard with stiffener as a helmet.
On a man's hat ribbon tails & bows are always worn on the left side. Sometimes you will see pics here that appear the opposite but that is a reverse image from a particular camera phone & the way it was shot. Mule kicks are always in the crown front, sometimes a second smaller kick can be added to the crown rear.
If you are not going to be doing the crease yourself I would think you will find a local Western wear store with hat shop more patient & cooperative with you if you buy the hat from them rather than take in a new hat from eBay. Box stores like Cavenders Boot City or Sheplers will probably be of little help.
If you decide to do the crease yourself I would look for a clean 1970's - 1980's 4X with a brim of 3-1/4" for $50 & give it a go. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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I mentioned in another thread awhile back about revisiting some of the old Western TV series. I've been surprised at the occasional display of bows on the wrong side of mens' hats on some shows. I recently watched an episode of Wagon Train with Jack Lord in it. For one part of the show, his ribbon was on the wrong side. After a commercial break, it was on the right side. Nobdoy else's changed, so it wasn't a reverse image.
I’ve seen that as well, Jim. I’ve wondered if they just put the hat on backwards.
