Notions about fit

[Marc mndt]

From two very different times I believe. One is pre war and four is definitely post war. Did I guess correctly?

Bingo, the first (horsehide Albert Richard) is probably from the mid 40s, the fourth (steerhide Californian) is most likely mid 50s.

 

[ton312]

With vintage I accept different fits.
Short:

“Regular”:

And long:

I’m far, far less forgiving of repro’s. They have to hit the spec for specified fit. Vintage I’ll bend or barring that alter to suitable state. Which I did satisfactorily to me, with the Monarch and Phillips above.
I can’t help but wonder why the jackets I don’t spec, always make me happier.

 

[Damon141]

Idk what it is, but to Marc and Ton, your vintage jackets fit just as well or better than some of the custom ones I’ve seen you posted, don’t get me wrong the customs look great but when you find a vintage that fits they just seem to have a certain drape on the body.
People sure had talented hands back then.

I was just watching Den of Thieves and this jacket reminded me of you guys

 

[ton312]

Idk what it is, but to Marc and Ton, your vintage jackets fit just as well or better than some of the custom ones I’ve seen you posted, don’t get me wrong the customs look great but when you find a vintage that fits they just seem to have a certain drape on the body.
People sure had talented hands back then.

I was just watching Den of Thieves and this jacket reminded me of you guys

Looks like a Windward!

 

[ton312]

What’s interesting about all of this, and it’s definitely something mental, this Aero felt too short. It was not. Not at all. But it felt that way.

Same with this LW. Sleeves felt too short. And I wear them comfortably at this length on vintage stuff:

You could easily make the argument I was right or wrong in both cases. But the feel of them both nagged me. But why?

 

[Marc mndt]

so the general consensus is slim fit, and this has carried over into this world, which I always found interesting because of all the attention paid to period correct, authentic reproductions, however the fit is nothing like those who wore them in photographs, the fit is always far far more modern.

Here's a bunch of period pics. Looks like they wore their halfbelts reasonably fitted.

 

[Marc mndt]

 

[ton312]

Here's a bunch of period pics. Looks like they wore their halfbelts reasonably fitted.

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Man that center guy in the last pic is winning!

 

[Yamahana]

Here's a bunch of period pics. Looks like they wore their halfbelts reasonably fitted.

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Love these vintage pics... way cool, effortlessly cool!

 

[Damon141]

What’s interesting about all of this, and it’s definitely something mental, this Aero felt too short. It was not. Not at all. But it felt that way.
View attachment 423680
Same with this LW. Sleeves felt too short. And I wear them comfortably at this length on vintage stuff:
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You could easily make the argument I was right or wrong in both cases. But the feel of them both nagged me. But why?

That was a badass blue. Reminds me of the blue water in the Mediterranean for some reason. What was it called?

 

[navetsea]

What’s interesting about all of this, and it’s definitely something mental, this Aero felt too short. It was not. Not at all. But it felt that way.
View attachment 423680
Same with this LW. Sleeves felt too short. And I wear them comfortably at this length on vintage stuff:
View attachment 423679
You could easily make the argument I was right or wrong in both cases. But the feel of them both nagged me. But why?

I think because they are not broken in yet

 

[navetsea]

Here's a bunch of period pics. Looks like they wore their halfbelts reasonably fitted.

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I just realize, in these old photos their shoes were all dirty from road condition back then.

 

[willyto]

I’m going to be the same boring guy that repeats himself over and over and those pics just prove the point.

Your jackets aren’t short, your trousers are low rise. Also american half belts tend to be a bit longer I’ve experienced.

You can’t take a design made for a certain type of trouser style back in the day and wear it with a low rise and expect it to fit the same. Also people weren’t as tall as most of you are today. They will always look short when they really aren’t.

You can see a lot of differenr fits on vintage photos but the jackets are always in proportion.

 

[MrProper]

I think because they are not broken in yet

Yes, I think so too.
In the past, people had a jacket and wore it every day.
With us, a jacket is used 5 times a year and always looks new *lol*.
In addition, perhaps, that demands on a custom jacket are higher, in terms of fit, material and workmanship.
If Ton's bluish jacket went back 60 years via time machine and was worn every day, it would be 1:1 perfect for Ton today, right?

 

[SimonR]

Of the four posted I think the first is a little too close a fit .... but that is me knowing I couldn't pull it off !!

Overall though they all look good regardless of the slight sleeve / back measurement differences as any person looking would only see one at a time (if that makes sense)

Really I'd be more that happy with either of the last three and just wish I could wear the first one

Simon

 

[Marc mndt]

What’s interesting about all of this, and it’s definitely something mental, this Aero felt too short. It was not. Not at all. But it felt that way.

Same with this LW. Sleeves felt too short. And I wear them comfortably at this length on vintage stuff:

But the feel of them both nagged me. But why?

I think that's because you were the first owner, the one who commissioned the jackets. You spec'd them. It nagged you because they could have been 'perfect' but you f*cked it up. "If only I added an inch more body / sleeve length ".

With vintage you just take a jacket as it is and live with it.

Unless your name is @ton312 of course, in that case you'll send it to Dena to have cuff extenders installed lol

Edit: smiley added

 

[Marc mndt]

If Ton's bluish jacket went back 60 years via time machine and was worn every day, it would be 1:1 perfect for Ton today, right?

I don't think CXL jackets survive for more than 25 years of hard wear. At some point CXL just crumbles apart.

 

[MrProper]

I don't think CXL jackets survive for more than 25 years of hard wear. At some point CXL just crumbles apart.

I would not have thought that. Would have assumed that it would last a lifetime.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Here's a bunch of period pics. Looks like they wore their halfbelts reasonably fitted.

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While I'm not disagreeing that those are more in the fitted side, they are also wearing layers underneath and so have room to spare, heck one is casually playing baseball. I wish I knew what to Google to bring up old images of riveters and such that I've seen that wore jackets with alot more room. Also, not surprised military uniforms especially European being fitted.

But here are some famous photos and the fit is more functional, but I admit they're not slobs either.

 

[Marc mndt]

I wish I knew what to Google to bring up old images of riveters and such that I've seen that wore jackets with alot more room.

Sure you'll find roomier jackets. But you won't find 26"-27" body length mc jackets on average height guys.