Notch Lapel Width

[Mack the Knife]

All,

I am in the final stages of getting my specs together for a custom-made suit ala mycustomtailor.com. I am aware of the mixed results, as posted on this board. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences. I'm a gambler, so I'll roll the dice...

Some background: I am going for a very specific look. Has anyone here seen The Great Gatsby with Robert Redford? In scene 4 when he's showing Nick the yellow Rolls, Redford has on a dark brown pinstripe suits with some kicking spectator shoes. THAT is the look I'm going for. I like the suits in that movie in general: they appear to be mainly two-button suits with wide lapels, which I think creates a very elegant, classy look.

So here are my questions:

1. The suit features wide notch lapels. What is a standard width for a notch lapel? I am trying to get a sense of the width to submit to the tailor. I was thinking about 4.5". Does that strike anyone as too large?

2. Does anyone know what a "high notch" lapel is?

3. I noticed in the suit that the angle between the collar point and the lapel point appears smaller than normal (follow the line from the point of the lapel). Has anyone every heard of altering the "slope" on the lapel, such that the notch point sticks out further than the collar point? Is there a term for this? If anyone can envision what I am talking about, I'd love to get some input.

4. Finally, if any tech savy folks read this, I would buy you a brand new suit if you could post some video stills of the suit I am talking about. Ok, maybe not a suit...but I'll be most grateful.

Thanks everyone.

~Mack

 

[Tomasso]

I'll Try My Hand

1. Sorry, but there is no standard lapel width. IMO lapel width, to some degree, should be correlated to the physique of the wearer and the overall balance and proportion of the jacket, though some would disagree.

2.The gorge is where the top of the lapel and the bottom of the collar meet. The closer this point is to the shoulder seem, the higher the gorge.

3. I think I understand what you're saying. This is doable, but usually not at most MTM programs, more of a bespoke offering.

4.I can't help you since I don't own that DVD.

 

[Mack the Knife]

Thanks, Tomasso.

You should check out that DVD. Those are some fine suits!!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Ralph Lauren designed the menswear for 1974's Great Gatsby film. His suits, shirts and ties look more "Carnaby Street" than "Savile Row". The thick, wide neckties, giant shirt collars and flat-lapelled suits are retro '20s seen through a '70s lens.

I'm not criticizing Ralph Lauren per se: his work in the film helped to spark a '70s-esque revival of '20s and '30s men's fashions. Some like the results; some don't. I'll leave it at that.

.

 

[Tomasso]

Do Either Of These Lapels Resemble What You're Looking For

3. I noticed in the suit that the angle between the collar point and the lapel point appears smaller than normal (follow the line from the point of the lapel). Has anyone every heard of altering the "slope" on the lapel, such that the notch point sticks out further than the collar point? Is there a term for this? If anyone can envision what I am talking about, I'd love to get some input.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

From the movie itself:

.

 

[Tomasso]

Yikes!

giant shirt collars


.

 

[Tomasso]

So, Tell Me Mark........

What's your opinion of Armani's Untouchables?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

That's a great question. I think that Armani captured the feel of the era, while not being fully authentic. That's always the case when commercial clothing designers work on a film. Ralph Lauren wanted to promote his own designs, and so did Armani. Each inserted his own signature "touches" into the costuming.

For authenticity in '20s-'30s men's suits, two American movies come to my mind: Pennies from Heaven and The Cotton Club. I thought that Chinatown did a good job, too, especially for a film from the '70s.

.

 

[Tomasso]

How About The Sting?

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

How About The Sting?

I'm afraid the picture you posted answers your question.

 

[Tomasso]

I'm afraid the picture you posted answers your question.

Would you care to itemize the faux pas?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The Sting is an incoherent hodgepodge of period '30s apparel thrown together with '50s, '60s and even '70s duds. Most of the neckties were '70s polyester, as were some of the shirts (mainly those worn by the leads); the hats ranged from '30s/'40s fedoras to '60s homburgs and porkpies. It was a big tossed mess of a salad. And don't get me started on the bushy '70s haircuts ...

.

 

[Tomasso]

And The Winner Is.................

Marc, so I'm to understand that you disagree with the Academy on its decision to award the Oscar for Best Costume Design to Edith Head?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You mean Edna Mode? Boy, do I!

A lifetime achievement Oscar? Yes. An Oscar for The Sting? No.

.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Would you care to itemize the faux pas?

I apologise for the snappishness of my remark. Ad rem, I'd say the overall impression is 70s, 70s, 70s. One of the things that I can itemise more easily are the giant plastic ties. Also, the stripes on Mr Redford's jacket look very strange, like a caricature.

 

[Tomasso]

I apologise for the snappishness of my remark.

No offence taken, Sir.
I too had picked out Redford's suit jacket as being suspect.

 

[Mack the Knife]

Guys, thanks for the insight. The black/white photo of Redford from the Great Gatsby is one I particularly like (except the vest). Obviously, to the trained eyes on this board it will look a bit too retro, rather than authentic, but then really, the only way to go authentic is to buy from that period. I don't mind the slight contemporary feel anyway...I do intend this suit to be worn just like any other. As for the lapels, I am going with 4.5" and high notch, which shouldn't get overly outlandish ala 1970s "fashion" (I hope).

 

[Mack the Knife]

Tomasso, as for the pics of the suits you posted: I like the notches in the 2nd pic. Thanks!

 

[Tomasso]

Tomasso, as for the pics of the suits you posted: I like the notches in the 2nd pic. Thanks!

Mack, I posted the photo of peak lapels just in case you were a neophyte to tailored clothing. Your description could have been interpreted as peak lapels and personally, I know that it's difficult to describe various design features without the use of photos or illustrations. The web is loaded with photos so don't be shy about adding them to your posts