Newest acquisition... what do I have?

[Guppy]

I spotted this on eBay and snapped it up for a pretty decent price. It arrived today, fits rather well, and is a super heavy, stiff leather (I think steer, but seller advertised as horse -- there's no label but either way it's solid, quality stuff).

I'm trying to figure out what I have. There's no manufacturer's or size tag anywhere to be found.

Seller description said 40's-50's, which it could be, but it's hard to say. I believe it must have been re-lined, and possibly had the main zipper replaced. The main zipper is YKK, looks like zippers I'd see on coats in the 80's and 90's. The cuffs are Talon zips, though. I don't know Talon pulls well enough to say their vintage.

The lining looks like denim, but feels lighter, and has a few wear spots so if it isn't the original liner, it wasn't just recently replaced. The sleeves are lined with what might be mouton or fleece, but could be just very beat up felt, for about the last 4 inches or so to the cuff, to help keep wind out.

I haven't seen a Langlitz jacket that has such a feature, although I've only handled a few. Having said that, It looks to me like a police model Langlitz Columbia, but with a symmetrical, straight zip instead of a diagonal cross zip. Could be a Langlitz, but I've seen some other manufacturers that look similar, almost exact clones of Langlitz before. So I'd say I'm about 90% sure, but maybe it's something else.

There are belt loops, with blacked out snaps, and the collar has snaps to accept a mouton collar, but there was no collar with the jacket. Whatever it is, I like it a lot. Not for sale or trade unless you're offering several times what I paid for it.

The images attached are from the seller's listing; I can include more upon request -- I think close ups of the zipper pulls may aid in determining the era it was built.

I just LOVE the collar on this thing. Just look at it.

Any help positively identifying the maker and era would be most appreciated.

 

[Guppy]

Main zipper:

Cuff zipper:

Pocket zipper:

 

[lucky23]

Nice score!!! I love those center zip police style jackets.

 

[Monitor]

Cal-leathers! Zero doubt. You can send 'em the photos for verification but I'm certain it's Cal.

Or, right, and I'm willing to bet it's indeed a HH.

 

[Guppy]

Cal-leathers! Zero doubt. You can send 'em the photos for verification but I'm certain it's Cal.

Or, right, and I'm willing to bet it's indeed a HH.

Thanks, Monitor. I knew I'd seen a Cal-Leather that looks like this before, but had forgotten whether it was Cal or Taubers. Any idea on the age?

 

[technovox]

Cal-leathers! Zero doubt. You can send 'em the photos for verification but I'm certain it's Cal.

Or, right, and I'm willing to bet it's indeed a HH.

That was my first thought. Except on all Cal-Leathers I've seen, there should be two snaps near the top of the collar in the lining. And the YKK zip doesn't seem right either. But the sleeves, and the stitching look right. Possibly the zip and the lining were replaced and they didn't add the snaps back in? I'm sure Gwen at Cal Leathers can confirm either way.

 

[pawineguy]

Before I scrolled down I also immediately thought Cal-Leathers, but with some modern repairs / alterations. It's a great piece, whatever it is.

 

[Monitor]

I don't think anyone other than Cal was doing furry sleeve cuff lining thing on their jackets. The Talon pocket zips are also what Cal would use back in the days.
I've seen a whole bunch of these jackets as a friend of mine was into them & he'd send me a photo of each new Cal jacket he'd acquire. Must have been through 30 jackets or so, and at least three of the exact same ones.

 

[technovox]

I don't think anyone other than Cal was doing furry sleeve cuff lining thing on their jackets. The Talon pocket zips are also what Cal would use back in the days.
I've seen a whole bunch of these jackets as a friend of mine was into them & he'd send me a photo of each new Cal jacket he'd acquire. Must have been through 30 jackets or so, and at least three of the exact same ones.

30 Cal Leather jackets?? Now that is an addiction! I feel better already...
I only own 4 with another on the way!

 

[tmitchell59]

I don't recognize this as Tauber. I know them better than Cal Leather. Looks like Horsehide. It would be interesting to know when Cal Leather phased out horsehide. Seems by the early 60s horsehide wasn't being used by anyone. I think of those Talon ear ring pulls as 60s. That jacket is a piece of work meant for work. Nice.

 

[technovox]

I don't recognize this as Tauber. I know them better than Cal Leather. Looks like Horsehide. It would be interesting to know when Cal Leather phased out horsehide. Seems by the early 60s horsehide wasn't being used by anyone. I think of those Talon ear ring pulls as 60s. That jacket is a piece of work meant for work. Nice.

Yes, the Talon teardrop pulls suggest early sixties to me. In the fifties, I believe Horsehide was standard, and during the sixties became an option for Cal Leathers.

 

[tmitchell59]

Yes, the Talon teardrop pulls suggest early sixties to me. In the fifties, I believe Horsehide was standard, and during the sixties became an option for Cal Leathers.

Thanks. By the early 60s I don't think any big Catalog Company was advertising horsehide. I know Taubers was using Horsehide in the mid 60s, I've seen dated ads. Taubers had both steer and Horse. Cal Leathers do have a very heavy Horsehide look. A lot of leather making in California history, north and south.

 

[tmitchell59]

I had a beautiful Taubers Cafe Racer with Cordoroy lining. Had these Talon ear rings, and an original YKK main zipper. The main YKK was the only zipper that had been on that jacket. It looked like new. The Taubers had the later label i think of late 60s. I can't tell in these pics if the zipper has been replaced. The Tauber had the same mix.

 

[AeroFan_07]

That's sure a neat find! Not as knowledgable about these but it is possible it's a Taylor's Leather? Made south, Ky or TN. They are pretty much a Police-exclusive place and thier all black & white website seems to hint at that. Whatever you got, it's a neat jacket!

 

[Guppy]

That was my first thought. Except on all Cal-Leathers I've seen, there should be two snaps near the top of the collar in the lining. And the YKK zip doesn't seem right either. But the sleeves, and the stitching look right. Possibly the zip and the lining were replaced and they didn't add the snaps back in? I'm sure Gwen at Cal Leathers can confirm either way.

You mean these snaps?

 

[technovox]

You mean these snaps?

View attachment 45878

Yes. Those snaps look different then the ones used on Cal Leathers jacket. The snaps should be closer together, near the middle of the collar, and in the lining, not the leather. Like this one.

Or this one.

But I'm no Cal Leathers expert. I'm just going by what I remember from my conversation with Gwen, the last time I was down at Cal Leathers, and we were trying to identify a couple of jackets I found.

 

[Guppy]

Ah, OK. Yeah, mine does not have the snaps in the lining at the back of the neck. Just as well, as I don't plan to fit a mouton collar to this one ever, and I bet those bare snaps would feel cold on my neck.

Well, now that I know what it is, here's another one on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Str...496581?hash=item23641d4a85:g:puwAAOSwvgdW2689

Looks like this one is in more original condition, but I think the one I have looks cooler

 

[Monitor]

30 Cal Leather jackets?? Now that is an addiction! I feel better already...
I only own 4 with another on the way!

Provided he didn't quit this hobby of his, if the rate by which he was acquiring new jackets is to be taken as any indication, he ought to be on the 80th Cal by now.

I don't know what I'd do with 30 jackets. I would like to cover all the major CR styles, Brooks, Fidelity, Kehoe, Reed, but that'd be it for me. But, back to the Cal at hand.