Newcomer needs a suit!

[Graeme]

First of, hi all. Was told about this site by a friend so ive joined up.

I think i need some help finding a suit, ive probably about a million questions but ill try and not waffle on too much right now.

Ive been trying to find a suit for my wedding, it will be my firt suit, therefore i know very little about things.

Were very into our 50's style, our whole house is very 50's/kitsch (think formica and bright colours and you'l get the idea).

Were getting married at the Hemsby rockabilly weekender this may so i need to find something pretty soon. Being more of a jeans and shirt guy and usualy crawling around under cars ive not realy paid much attention to suits although ive always liked the sharp slim fit 60's ganster style.

Thats not going to cut it at a 50's doo though so i need to find something vintage.

I cant find anything with a nice fleck and although i also like sharkskin thats more 60's isnt it?

I guess, what im after, is some help with styling of 50's suits so i know what to look for, what sorts of materials, best places to find them (i think ive searched everywhere!) etc.

Im tall and thin with long arms and legs which doesnt help. Ive recently wondered if im better off finding something too big but a nice material/style and getting it altered. Are there any aspects that cant be changed?

Anyhow, any advice greatly appreciated.

Ive seen a couple which i liked but they have already sold. Ill try and post some pics up here of things i find and would appreciate your opinions.

Thanx, Graeme.

 

[Graeme]

I love this, described as 40's, already sold so its too late now anyway.

 

[Graeme]

they still have this one (ill just post the link)
http://www.wearitagainsamvintage.com/item.lasso?recid=12586588

Not so keen on this though, not 100% sure why though.
It might be the collars that are putting me off, or the way the sleeves look bunched at the back where they meet the shoulder.

 

[Graeme]

Like the colour of this, no good pics of the trousers though but i can see theres no turn ups.

What era would you say this is?

similar story going on here. Colars seem a little unusual to me.

 

[Graeme]

Like the colour of this but not 100% sure, somethings putting me off, maybe the shape of the opening at the bottom of the jacket, or the pocket style, not sure.

You may have guessed, im pretty confused

 

[slicedbread]

I believe with all my heart that those suits are overpriced...But I quite like the first two you posted.

 

[Graeme]

Yah, wear it again sam isnt too cheap!

Having said that, i'd have paid that price for the first one, its great!

 

[Salv]

Hi Graeme - would you consider something new in a vintage style? I've been buying repro suits from Rocacha for many years, and I'm very happy with them. They have various styles of jackets and trousers - the two button, single-breasted Vegas might be what you're looking for, or the three button SB Cotton Club:

They have two styles of trousers which you'd probably like, both fairly similar, the Zoot and the Peg. The Zoots have a fishtail back, while the Pegs have a plain, straight back. Apart from that they're identical :

I had a Cotton Club made up a couple of years ago in a very nice mottled dark blue worsted with red and blue windowpane checks:

...the cloth is actually darker than that photo would suggest.

They have a huge range of fabrics to choose from, including some nice wools in grey, blue and brown with multi-coloured flecks. You will need to visit them in London though to see all the fabrics and to get measured up properly, and you can expect to get the finished suit in four weeks. Expect to pay from £325 for a suit, but the price will depend on the fabric.

Rocacha used to be known as Rock-A-Cha and they had a shop in Kensington Market that opened in 1980. They were there until the market closed, and one of the guys that ran it carried on working from a room in a house in Kensington. Here's a photo of the shop in 1980 - the guy on the right is Rob Crossley who runs the business nowadays, the other one is DJ Jay Strongman:

Hope this helps.

 

[Graeme]

Thanks for the link, i would consider a repro suit if i can find a fabric i like.

 

[gordon]

Any advice on current-day suit styles?

Beyond the Brooks 1818, I'm looking for something classic - that won't break the bank.

 

[mrgerard]

sizing

You should know your size, because sometimes there's not enough fabric to alter. I'm tall and thin as well 42 long, and it's hard to find good fitting suits
but they're out there. Are you looking for light or dark color? A day wedding can accomodate a light color but not at night. And what is your bride wearing? G

 

[Graeme]

Its a day wedding, registary office.

Bride is wearing a red 50's dress.

I seem to prefer a lighter colour suit but im easy.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Bespoke

Hello and welcome!

If you've got the time, maybe you might consider a bespoke suit from Thick as Thieves?

http://www.thickasthievesla.com/

You could request whatever details and fabric you like, and even get a lining to match the bride's dress!

 

[gordon]

How much do Thick as Theves suits run?

I am seriously considering purchasing a suit from them. Think I can get one for under $500?

Also - a question about measurements. I have recently found a tailor in Brooklyn who comes recommended (from New York magazine). Is it ok for me to just go in and ask him to measure me? Should I tip him? I feel bad, since this tailor makes bespoke suits, and I think having him measure me for another tailor might seem inappropriate. I know I'm really close to a 40 reg, and I suppose I could tell Thick as Theves to make one with those measurements and have a fitting with my tailor too, but sending exact measurements for a bespoke suit seems to make the most sense.

 

[Mike in Seattle]

they still have this one (ill just post the link)
http://www.wearitagainsamvintage.com/item.lasso?recid=12586588

Not so keen on this though, not 100% sure why though.
It might be the collars that are putting me off, or the way the sleeves look bunched at the back where they meet the shoulder.

Hi Graeme -

You can't always judge how a suit looks based on how it looks hanging on a mannequin like it is, even if the measurements are 100% exactly your normal size. It all depends on how it look on you, and probably most importantly, how you look and FEELS when you wear it. Wearing a great looking suit that you hate is going to send out the "I hate it" vibes to everyone. And alas, wearing something you love that looks hideous on you and everyone's just going to think how bad it looks on you, not how jazzed you are about wearing it. The latter also holds true if it's too big or too small - some people will notice it. They probably won't say anything, but sometimes you look at a picture from the past and roll your eyes and wonder "What was I thinking..."

The first suit (the one already sold - dammit! ) is a 42. The second is a 46. That's a pretty big swing in sizes, and without knowing what your normal suit size is, it's hard to give a lot of advice about the example suits. If you wear a 42, and need to have a 46 cut down to fit you, what you spend in alterations to get it to fit AND look right, will probably be as much or more than just buying another suit or having a custom suit made. And there's no guarantee you'll be completely satisfied with the finished product. If you're a 46 and same inseam & waist size, better, but still not a 100% guaranteed perfect outfit.

That said, I think the blue-grey IS very nice and totally appropriate, especially for a wedding. The right tie & flower on the lapel and it's all just going to pop. The problem is you're in England, they're in San Diego in the USA. If you were in the San Diego or even LA area, I'd suggest you call and have them hold the suit and buzz right down and try it on.

The other option might be that you explain the situation and see if you can pay for it & the cost of shipping it to you, with the firm agreement that if it doesn't fit or look right on you, you can return it immediately for a full refund of the purchase price, no questions asked. Then try it on, see how it fits and looks (if it is, indeed, your size or close to it) and make your decision. If you return it, you'll be stuck with the shipping cost both ways, but better than buying it, finding it doesn't fit or you don't like it, and being stuck with the full price and delivery cost of that suit, and still having to spend more money to get something for your wedding.

That said - have you considered having a suit custom made? Indy Magnoli is one of the members here on the Lounge, and makes some great suits, from what's been posted here, and what I've seen on his web site. I have no personal experience...yet (there are a couple suits calling my name like a Siren song...) but it's something to consider. If you figure in what shipping something to and from the US, you're probably getting close to what a custom suit runs based on the price of the two you showed interest in.

And it IS a very special, memorable ocassion, and I'm sure you want it perfect. IMHO, it's definitely worth a little extra effort, a little extra searching out to find and put together just the right outfit, even a little extra splurge (within budgetary considerations, of course), because getting married doesn't happen often (unless you're Pamela Anderson). It should be a completely unforgettable, lovely ocassion.

Have you considered possibly mentioning your plans to those putting on the Hemsby rock-n-roll weekend? They might have some advice, some new ideas, they may even want to help you out with making it a more memorable ocassion. One of the others here on the Lounge & her fiance got married last month in the house used in their favorite movie, A Christmas Story. When they inquired about having the wedding there, the owners arranged for a cake & flowers, a 40's vintage car and some media coverage. Maybe they'll help you set up a total 50's wedding as part of the event. It never hurts to ask, and if they come up with zany ideas or things you're not comfortable with, or if it starts to spiral out of your control, just remember that the words "No, but thank you!" come in handy, and you bop back to the original registry office idea.

I wish you well, on both your search for a super outfit, and your wedding day. I'm sure I speak for everyone here - we're more than happy to give you advice, and we definitely want to see pictures of what you decided on, as well as the event itself and a full wrap-up.

Mike

 

[Mike in Seattle]

Also - a question about measurements. I have recently found a tailor in Brooklyn who comes recommended (from New York magazine). Is it ok for me to just go in and ask him to measure me? Should I tip him? I feel bad, since this tailor makes bespoke suits, and I think having him measure me for another tailor might seem inappropriate.

Ask what he'd charge for doing the measurements, or tip him at least $20 I'd think. If it goes more than half an hour, I'd probably bump it to $40 just to sooth my own conscience. And really, any tailor would be able to take your measurements if he's not interested.

If you want a little fib so you don't feel so bad about his measuring for someone else to do the actual tailoring work, say you're in theater and you're doing a show next summer out of town and they want measurements to make the costumes from. PM me (I would've PM'ed this to you, but you need to make one more post before the system allows that) and I'll give you an alibi and/or plausible backstory if he asks where & when & what. Ah...the joys of being involved in the periphery of thea-tah...

 

[gordon]

Thanks Mike! ...this is now my 15th post.

Thanks for the offer, I have 5 years of improv comedy training and performing that I can lean on to develop a solid scenario. I'm going to amend your story into something like "I'm in a wedding in Arizona and have to send my measurements to the best man, can you measure me?" I think $20 sounds like the right tip. I'll just have to remember the fake tan from "Arizona" next time I go back!

This will be my very first bespoke suit from Thick as Thieves - any other advice?

Anyone have thoughts on 1 button vs. 2 vs 3? ...as far as formality? I'm athletic and a 40 reg suit - 5'10 in height. So slimming and heightening considerations aside....I was originally I was going for a "classic" suit for interviewing (grad school, job, etc) but I think I could get away with something more ...funky, especially with "Mad Men" being all the rage. I'm wondering if I should just get a solid black "mod" suit - the only question remaining is the number of buttons.

 

[Jovan]

Hello and welcome!

If you've got the time, maybe you might consider a bespoke suit from Thick as Thieves?

http://www.thickasthievesla.com/

You could request whatever details and fabric you like, and even get a lining to match the bride's dress!

This is a bit misleading. I wouldn't call them bespoke -- they're actually closer to made to measure. A pre-existing pattern simply altered. He won't budge on some style details, but things like a bit wider lapel or slanted pockets are fine.